1 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.I 



f UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, f 



^^^^^^ . A^.r^^'^- ' 



^^^^^^^^^^^ 



THE PKACTICAL GUIDES 



MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING HOUSES ABROAD. 

Some Houses refwse wholly to supply these ' Guides ' because they are too cheap ; 
and some, became old ruhhish on hand must first he got rid of. — Such short-sight- 
ed and dishonest policy needs only to be pointed out to the straight-forward Eng- 



lish Character to be taught a wholesome lesson. 

Boulogne... Merridew. ISTancy Gonet. 

Rigaiid Caux. Paris Amyot. 

Seal. Dentu. 

Calais.... Demotier. Galignani. 

Dieppe.... Marais. Giiesnon. 

DuNKERQUE. Leyschocait. \ Fowler. 

Havre. . . . Bourdignon. Hachette & Co. 

Cochard. Jaunet. 

Foucher. Ledot. 

Hondaille. Nicoud. 

Lille Beghin. Stassin & Xavier. 

Yanackere. Truchy. 

Lyons Barretta, Rheims Brissart Binet. 

Conchon. Eouen Lebrument. 

Girandier. Strasbourg. Fietta. 

Savy. Grucker. 

Marseilles. Camom. Treuttel & Wurtz» 
BELGIUM, 

Antwerp... Max Kornicker. Brussels ... Meyer. 

Tessaro. Muquardt. 

Bru-ssels... Decq. Wahien-Vierlants. 

Claassen. Liege .... Gnuse. 

Fiatau. OsTEND.... Daveluy ' 

Kiessling. Wahlen-Fierlants. 

Bozez. Spa Bruch MarechaL 

Todd. Dommartj. 
HOLLAKD. 

Amsterdam. Kirberger. Hague Visser. 

Miiiler. Rotterdam. Kramers. 

Van Bakkeness. Krapp. 

Hague.... Hoogstratten. Petri. 

THE HHIKE, GEHMAIJTY, ETC. 

Aix-la- 5 Benrath. Cahlsruhe. Noldeke. 

Chapelle ( Mayer. Coblenz. . . Baedeker. 

Baden-Bad. Marx. Hergt. 

Bonn Baumhaiier. Holscher. 

Henry and Cohen. Cologne. . . B^deker. 

Marcus. Eisen. 

Wittmann Lengfeld. 



Di'ssELDORF.Botticher. 

Groos. 

v^cbulte. 
Frankfort. Baer. 

Hermann. 

Keller. 

St. Goar. 

Voehmel. 
Freiburg... Herder. 

Wirth. 
Heidelberg. Mohr. 

Emmerling. 

Eie<2:er. 



Kreutznacii Voigtlander. 
LuXEMBOURaBiick. 

MANNHEIM...Frisch. 

Mayence Faber. 

Le Koux. 

Von Zabern. 

Munich Palm. 

Stuttgart.. .Kobler. 

NeiF. 

Wiesbaden. Kreidel. 

Bitter. 
Roth. 

Scliellenberff.. 



SWITZEHLAND. 

Aarau Christen. Geneva.. 

Baden Hohr & Langbein. 

Zehnder. 
Basle Amberger [Depot) 

Beck. 

Georg. 

Hasler. 

Schweighauser. 
Walz. 

Berne Blom. 

Dalp. 
Ruber. 
Jent. 

Walthard. 

BiENNE Jent. 

CoiRE Grubenmann. 

Gallen, ST...Huber. Zurich. 

Koppel. 

Scheitlin. 
Geneva Cherbuliez. 

Becherat. 

Desrogis. 

Gex. 



Herisau. . 
Lausanne 



Lucerne. 



SCHAFF- 

hausen 
Yevey 



. ..Kessmann. 

Monroe. 
. . Meisel. 
.. Haubenreiser. 

Martignier, &c,. 

Vedel. 

Weber. 
. Kaiser {Depot). 

Kesselbach. 

Baber. 

Stocker. 
i Beck. 
< Hurter. 
i_ Schalch. 
. . Lortscher. 

Schweighauser. 
. .. Fuessli. 

Honegger- Schmidt. 

Leuthold. 

Locher. 

Mever & Zeller. 
Orell, Fiissli & Co. 
Schulthess. 



ITALY. 



Florence. . .. Goodban. 

Molini. 
Genoa Beuf. 

Grondona. 

Bossi. 
Milan Artaria. 

Dumolard. 

Molinari. 



Milan Vallardi. 

Nice Giraud. 

Visconti (Depot). 
Turin Bocca. 

Giannini & Fiore. 

Maggi. 

Venice Miinster. 

Verona Miinster. 



PRACTICAL SWISS GUIDE. 

KED BOOK FOE, SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, PIEDMONT, NORTH ITALY. 
A COMPLETE ITINERARY OF 

SWITZERLAND. 

THE ADJOIIfING DISTRICTS OF 

SAVOY, PIEDMOl^fT, IfOHTH ITALY. 

THE INTRODUCTORY ROUTES FROM LONDON BY 

FEMCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, AND THE RHINE. 

AND, IN THE BRIEFEST POSSIBLE SPACE, EVERY NECESSARY ADVICE, 

HOTELS, POSTS, STEAMERS, TAEIFS, EAILS, 

TO SEE ALL THAT OUGHT TO BE SEEK 
IN THE SHORTEST PERIOD AHD AT THE LEAST EXPENSE. 



BY AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD. 




' This land of Alp and Lake is indeed a mountain-temple, reai'ed for the hnman mind on the 
dull unvaried plains of Europe, to whicli men of every country resort, from an irresistible 
impulse to feel intensely, at least once in their lives, the majesty of nature.'— Laing. 

FIFTH EBITIOE". TWELFTH TKOUSAHD. 

1860. 

LONDOX : 

PUBLISHED EOR THE PROPXIIETORS BY 

LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 

PARIS : A. & ^Y. GALIGNANI, 224 RUE DE RIVOLI. 

HACHETTE & CO., RUE PIERRE SARRAZIN. 
FOWLER., 6 RUE MONTPENSIER, PALAIS ROYAL. 
BRUSSELS : MUQUARDT, KIESSLING, DECQ, FLATAU, TODD. 
SWITZERLAND: KAISER, LUCERNE; AMBERGER, BASLE. 
LEIPSIC: F. A. BROCKHAUS. 
ITALY : VISCONTI, NICE. 

T/te right of translation is reserved. 



PEACTICAL GUIDES FOE ENGLISH TOURISTS. 

The ''Eed Books " for the various countries of the Continent. 
BY AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD. 

With every necessary information, clear, accurate, and compact. 
" We have a genuine Handbook at last." — Civil Service Gazette, 
** These are certainly the most comprehensive and practically useful Guide-books 
Vie have seen." — Art Journal. 



PRACTICAL SVaSS GUIDE. 
Switzerland, Savoy, Piedmont, North Italy, 
Practical Maps of Post-roads, Railways, Foot-paths, Plans of the Cities, Lakes, etc. 
Fifth Edition. Twelfth Thousand. Half-a-Crown. 

PRACTICAL RmXE GUIDE. 
France, Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, the Spas, Germany, to Switzerland. 
Practical Maps of Continental Railways, the Rhine, Seine, Moselle, etc. 
Fourth Edition. Tenth Thousand. One Shilling. 

PRACTICAL PARIS GUIDE. 
The Routes, Rails, Cities, etc., between London and Paris, in full detail. 
Practical Map of Paris, etc. 
^Third Edition. Tenth Thousand. One Shilling. 

PRACTICAL TEHOUGH-ROUTES. 
General Continental Guide, 
To connect ' I\Iurray's' various ' Handbooks.' 
Fourth Edition. One Shilling. 

PIL\CTICAL GLIDE FOR ITALY. 
Xorth and Central. 
The Pontes from London by France, Switzerland, Savoy, etc. 
Practical Maps of Eailways, Pioutes, Cities, Lakes, etc. 
Thii-d Edition. Half-a-Crown. 

PRACTICAL TBLE-TABLES. 

Monthly Official Red Book 
of 

COXTIXEXTAL RAILS, 
Three Pence. 

.^^^ Preparing for publication. 

PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR FRANCE. 
Practical Maps of Railways, Routes, Cities, Rivers, etc. 
Half-a-Crown. 

PRACTICAL OVERLAND-ROUTE GUIDE. 

PKVCTICAL TYROL GUIDE. 

Ma?/ be ordered of all Booksellers. 

Gcrant ti letiangcr — M. Marlr.y. II est autorise pour toute espece de reclamation. 
La Direction en repond. 



TO THE EEADER. 



The Tlditor alone is responsible for the contents of these works and for 
the manner in which they are given to the FuMic, 

The object of this ' Guide ' is to indicate all that is really essen- 
tial, and exclude all that is irrelevant. 

It is altogether based on personal experience : the wants it sup- 
plies have been repeatedly felt, and the information it furnishes is 
familiarly appreciated, by the writer himself 

It does not seek to rival Mr Murray's excellent * Handbooks:' 
its ground is quite distinct. They will still be dear to those who 
would linger on the way and learn the minutest particulars : but 
where the greatest economy of time, the broadest sweep of survey, 
and the distinctest limit of what may most profitably be undertaken 
and what most satisfactorily omitted, are desirable, this will be 
found to meet the case elfectually. 

The Age is a 'fast' one — the Third edition and Tenth thousand 
of the first of the present series of works, in little more than a 
twelve -months — and increasing demand for new editions and new 
' Guides,' — would seem gratefully to prove it. 

Among the many features peculiar to this ' Guide ' which will 
soon be discovered, special notice may be pointed to the following — • 

The Routes which commence in one country and conclude in 
another are given continuously through ; it being thought prac- 
tically better not to ' fix ' the too-confiding Excursionist, as other 
' Guides ' do, at a full stop, in an attitude of hopeless perplexity, 
upon a Frontier. 

Tlie Approaches are indicated in the direction which involves the 
finest effect of the scenery. 

The Comparative Heights along foot-routes are marked so that 
the Pedestrian can readily calculate where he must ascend and 
where descend. 

The Population immediately attached to places decides at once 
their size. 

The Hotels and Conveyances, being primary requirements, pre-* 
cede further details, and show the local facilities. 

The Sights are arranged in the best consecutive order possible, 
from the point that experience proves to be most in conformity 
with the average convenience of travellers. 

The whole place and local information, wherever the Tourist may 
chance to be, are so presented as to be seen plainly and completely 
at a single glance. 

And the eyitire connexions of each place with other places^ routes, etc 
are exhibited compactly gathered together under one head. 



TO THE READER. 



The Authorised Charges, so important an item in a really pleasant 
summer-run, are so extensively quoted, that no imposition need be 
submitted to on the one hand, and no accusation of illiberality be 
apprehended on the other. 

Xewer and still more distinctive features are added in the pre- 
sent editions — 

The influence of Cliinafe, properties of Baths, etc., have been parti- 
cularly investigated, and stand here on the highest authorities. 

The Medical Staff of various localities introduces the most dis- 
tinguished names of the Continent to the confirmed or casual Invalid. 

Houses of Business useful to Travellers, deserving of confidence, 
are selected on the testimony of the most respectable residents. 

And Maps of a moderate size, which can easily be consulted * en 
route,' — and Rough Plans of relative positions of consequence, to visibly 
direct the Stranger's course, — forming the first attempt of the 
KIND IN ANY HANDBOOK, — mav scrve uiore generally to evince the 
determination to spare neither time, attention, travel, nor expense, 
to justify that Public Opinion which has already so generously rati- 
fied our claim to the meaning and merit of the word ' Practical.' 

So we wish you ' hon voyage ' this season ! 

If improper treatment occur (it is hoped it will rarely do so), the 
statement to the offender that information ivill he sent to the * Guides 
Pratiques Anglais^ tvill he found useful: it is the only external 
check upon the tourist's victimisation. 

But, as praise is always pleasanter than blame, any intimation 
of particularly good treatment also will be gladly received and 
carefully attended to ; and a promise of this kind would act as an 
encouragement in such instances, and benefit succeeding Tourists. 

Communications should be addressed, free, to 
The Editor of the ' Practical Guides : ' 

Care of Messrs. Longman and Co., Publishers, 

39 Paternoster Kow, London. 

The Editor thankfully acknowledges the many valuable letters 
received from his travelling Countrymen. 



^ TJie Ahhreviatioyis r., right, and 1., left, apply uniformly to the 
direction in which the Koute is given : mis., 7niles, are always 
English : the rest are so simple as to need no explanation. 



TO THE RExVDER. 



0}i the small Maps and Fla7ts, the following are the marks gener- 
ally used — 



Railway-stations " Carriage-roads — 

Rails -■■«■—■■■ Lakes, Rivers, etc. .^'w^^>.vr^/^/^x^> 

Horse and foot-paths Houses of special note □ 

Towns o Lines of Houses (streets) in towns Wr/^/ 

Churches )J< Streets i (And sometimes thus 

Other Points of view ^ Squares : : 

The Time quoted on the routes, by post, steam, or rail, is the quickest. 

The hours of postal, steam, and railway services are verified up to the moment 
of printing: but— as slight changes continually occur — 

Special Time-Tables are now issued monthly in connexion with this series of 
* Guides.' 

PRACTICAL TIME-TABLES. 
( MONTHLY OFFICIAL RED BOOK ) 

OF 

CONTINENTAL RAILS. 
PRICE THREE PENCE. 

To be had of all Booksellers. In their absence, or pending current alterations, 
reference is recommended to the local lists hung up in all hotels. 



Hotel-Keepers and others who forward whole pages of self-panegyric 
nvith a demand for their insertion * as a public duty' ! are informed that such 
personal matters can only be inserted amongst the Advertisements. (See the 
•-close of each * Guide.') 

ITie teaming prefixed to the Advertisements is pressed upon the serious atten- 
tion of such parties. Advertisements are not essential to these books, but truth 
is essential to the Advertisements. 

The Advertisements are paid for, as those attached to * Murray's Handbooks' 
and other similar publications. But their admission involves no pledge of com- 
mendation. It would seem needless to specify this but that the contrary is 
. sometimes assumed. 

No commendation can he purchased. This is only given where independently- 
deserved. If payment therefore for such an object be made to any person in 
-spite of this notice, it may be considered lost. 

The rule adopted in mentioning Hotels will be found under that article in 
the • Introduction.' 

The Editor yields to the reiterated advice of Fellow-Tourists 
to put his Countrymen on their guard against the misrepresenta- 
tions of those Foreigners whose impositions are impeded or whose 
selfish interests are not subserved in the " Guide" which accord- 
ingly they endeavour to depreciate. 

And at the risk of increasing the hostility of those Hotel-keepers who care 
only • to make as much as they can out of the English,' he has felt it a duty to- 
wards such of his own countrymen as desire the lowest possible expenditure, to 
add to the present editions a list of humbler houses little known, suitable for this 
object— There are many English of slender means who never venture on the 
Continent because they 'fancy the expenses to be unavoidably heavy : in facili- 
tating their movement he considers he acts really as beneficially to the Foreigner 
as to themselves. 



COJfTEKTS. 



' , ' PAGE 

To THE Reader 

Index . . , . . . . . . . . . iv 

IXIEODUCTION. 

1. Passport, and Thermometers .. .. .. .. xv 

2. Languages . . . . . . . . . . . . x\ni 

3. Mon'ey . . . . . . . . . . . . xvii 

4. General Information, Requirements, and Advice . . . . xviii 

0. Pedestrians . . . . . . . . . . . . xx 

6. Hotels, Auberges, Pensions . . . . . . . . xxi 

7. Public Conveyances .. .. xxii 

8. Postin^r and Distances . . . . . . . . . . xxiii 

9. Voitures and Horses . . . . . . . . . . xxiv 

10. Porte-chaises and Guides .-, .. xxv 

H. Books illustrative of Localities .. .. .. xxvi 

12. Objects of special note . . .. .. .. .. xxvii 

13. The Swiss People .. .. .. .. xxix 

— : The Swiss Cantons . . . . . . . . . . xxx 

14. Skeleton-Routes . . . . . . . . . . xxxi 

J;i. Steamers between London and the Continent . . . . xxxviii 

16. London to Switzerland— General Table of Routes .. .. xxxix 

TOCABULAET OF LANGUAGES . . . . . . . . . . xl 

CoxTixENTAL Railw^a.t Tables .. .. .. xliv 

Routes theough Peaxce. 

1. London to Paris— I. Bv Boulogne . . . . . . 5 

2. „ ,, TI. By Calais . . . . . . . . 6 

3. „ „ III. By Dieppe .. .. 7 

4. „ „ IV. By Havre .. .. .. s 

T). Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . d 

<3. Paris to Switzerland— I. By Strasbourg .. .. .. lO 

7. ,. ., II. ByTroyes .. .. . . 12 

8. Pasle to Dole . . . . . . . . . . 12 

9. Paris to Switzerland— III. Bv Dole .. ., .. J3 

10. ,. „ IV. By Lyons . . . . . . 14 

From Lyons to Switzerland .. .. .. ]"> 

From Lyons to Turin .. . . . . . . li; 

11. Paris— Marseilles— Italy .. 17^ 

12. Marseilles to Nice \. .. .. .. 2l' 

13. Paris to the Rhine— I. By Brussels . . . . . . 22 

14. „ ,, II. By the Moselle .. .. .. 22 

15. „ „ III. By Mannheim .. . 23 

Routes by the RnixE. 

Ki. London to the Rhine— I. By Calais .. 23 

17. „ „ II. ByOstend .. .. 26 

18. „ „ IIL Bv Antwerp .. 29 
H). „ IV. By Holland .. .. 30 

20. The Rhine .. .. .. .. .. ... 34 

2). „ ('ologne to Mayence .. .. .. 34 

22. ,, Mayence to Switzerland .. .. .. 41 

23. The German Spas ,. .. .. .. 4& 



CONTENTS. iii 



PAGK 

Switzerland, Sayoy, Piedmont, North Italy. 

I. Freiburg to Schaffhausen. The Hollenthal . . . . 49 

II. Basle . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 

m. „ to Schaffhausen .. .. .. .. 5S- 

IV. „ to Zurich . . . . . . . . . . 54 

V. Schaffhausen to Ziirich . . . . . . . . 55 

VI. „ to Constance . . . . . . . . 55- 

VII. Zurich .. .. .. 5G 

VIIL Eastern Switzerland . . .. .. .. 58 

IX. Zurich to Constance . . .. .. .. .. 59 

X. Lake of Constance .. .. .. .. .. 59- 

XI. Zurich to St. Gall . . . . . . . . . . 6i 

XII. St. Gall to Appenzell. The Weissbad. The Wild-Church . . 

XIII. „ to Rag-atz, bv the Rheinthal . . . . . . 

XIV. „ to the Lake of Zurich, by Wattwyl .. ..- 64 

XV. Lake of Zurich . . . . . . . . . . 65 

XVI. Wattwyl to Ragatz, by the Toggenburg. . . . . . 67 

XVII. Zurich to Ragatz, by the Lake of Wallenstadt . . . . 67 

XVIII. „ (Ragatz. and Lucerne,) to Stachelberg. Segnes Pass. 

Panix Pass. Klausen Pass . . . . . . . . 70 

XIX. Ragatz to Coire . . . . . . . . . . 72' 

XX. „ to Italy. Spliigen Pass. Bernhardin Pass . . 73 

XXI. Chiavenna to Coire. Maloja Pass. Albula Pass. Julier Pass 75- 

— Bernina Pass . . . . . . . . 76 

XXII. Ragatz to Andermatt. Vorder-Rhine Valley . . . . 77 

XXIII. ,, to Lucerne. Einsiedeln. Morgarten . . . . 78 

XXIV Zurich to Lucerne. The Albis .. .. .. 79 

XXV. „ totheRigi .. .. .. .. .. 80 

XX VI. Basle to Lucerne. Lower Hauenstein Pass . . . . 81 

XXVn. Lucerne .. . . .. .. .. .. 82 

XXVIII. The Rigi . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 

XXIX. Lake of Lucerne .. .. .. 89 

XXX. Lucerne to Italy. St. Gotthard Pass. Kreutzli Pass. Susten 

Pass. Furca Pass. Lukmanier Pass. Lago di Lugano 92 
XXXI. Lucerne to Brunnen, by the Back of the Rigi. Lake of Zug. 

The Rossberg. Lake of Lowertz . . . . . . 98 

XXXII. Lucerne to Glarus, Stachelberg, Ragatz, by the Muotta Thai 100 

XXXIIL „ to Berne. The Emm en thai .. .. .. 101 

XXXTV. „ toThun .. .. .. .. .. 102 

XXXV. „ to Meyringen and Brienz— 1. Briinig Pass .. 102 

„ „ „ 2. Joch Pass . . . . 104 

XXXVI. The Bernese Oberland : General Advice . . . . . . 105 

XXXVII. Mevringen to the Grimsel. Falls of the Aar. Valley of the 

Rhone. Strahleck Pass . . . . . . . . lOa 

XXXVIII. Meyringen to Rosenlaui Glacier, and Grindelwald . . 108 
XXXIX. to Interlaken. The Rothhorn. Lake of Brienz. 

Giessbach;Falls . . . . . . . . . . 109 

XL. Interlaken . . . . . . . . . . HI 

XLI. „ to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach Fall. Schmadri- 

bachFall. The Schilthorn. Setinenthal Pass .. .. 113 

XLIL Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald— 1. By the Wengern Alp . . 115 

„ „ 2. By the carriage-road . . 11(> 

XLIIT. Interlaken to Thun. The Lake of Thun . . . . 118 

XLIV. „ and Thun to the Simplon. Gemini Pass. Baths 

of Louche .. .. .. .. .. 119 

XLV. Thun to Vevey. The Simmenthal. Sanetsch Pass. Vallees 

des Ormonds. Jaman Pass. . . . . . . 122 

XL VI. Berne . . . . . . . . . . . « 124 

XLVII. Basle to Berne . . . . . . . . . . 128 

XL VITL Zurich to Berne. Baths of Schinznach .. 128 

XLIX. Berne to Vevey, and Lausanne, by Fribourg . . . . 129 

L. „ * „ „ by Morat .. . . 130 

LL „ to Bienne . . . . . . . . . . 131 

in. „ to Geneva ». .. .. 131 



iv 



CCNTENTS. 



PAGE 

LIII. Geneva to Basle. Lakes of Neuchatel and Bienne. Val 

Moutier. Soleure. The Weissenstein. Oberhauenstein Pass 131 

LIV. Geneva . . . . . . . . . . . 137 

The Valley of Sixt . . . . . . . , 143 

hV. Lake of Geneva . . . . . . . . 144 

LVI. The Simplon and its branches. Geneva to Italv . . . . 155 

(') Pass of the Great St. Bernard .. .. 157 

i'-^) To Chamouny— 1 Bv the Col de Balm . . . . 158 

2. Bv the Tete Noire . . . . 139 

0^) Zermatt. The Riffelberg. Mont Cervin . . . . 161 

(+) St. Th^odule Pass . . . . . . . . 163 

(■^) Moro Pass. Macugnaira. Monte Rosa . . . . 164 

(G) V'al Formazza. Tosa Falls. Gries Pass. Niifenen Pass 166 

Routes to Chamouny . . . . . . . . 167 

LVII. Geneva to Chamouny, by Sallanches. Baths of St. Gervaix . . 167 

Chamouny— Excursions .. .. .. .. 171 

Ascent of Mont Blanc .. .. .. 173 

LVin. Geneva (and Lvons I to Turin. Pass of the Mont Cenis .. 174 

LTX. Savoy side of Mont Blanc . . . . . . . . 180 

LX. Back of Mont Blanc. Turin to Aosta, Cormaveur, Chamounv. 

The Cramont. Pass of the Little St. Bernard . . . . 181 

LXL The Swiss-Italian Lakes . . . . . . . . 185 

„ „ Corao . . . . . . 185 

Lugano . . . . . . 187 

„ IMaggiore . . . . . . 187 

Varese . . . . . . 190 

LXIL Orta and Varallo. The Monterone. Val Sesia. Gressonav. 

Turlo Pass . . . . . . . . *: . 191 

LXriT. Milan to Venice. Battle-fields of 18-59 . . . . . . 192 

LXIV. Routes of the North of Italy. Battle-fields of 18-59 . . 207 

LXV. Genoa .. . . . . . . , . . . 209 

LXVL Nice . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 

LXVII. Nice to Genoa. Comiche Pass . . . . . . 218 



The Routes from one Place to another will be found under each Place in the 
body of the book. 



A-arau, 129 
Aarburfr, 81 
Aar, Falls, 107 

, Glaciers, 108 

, Junction ^vith Reuss 

and Limmat, 128 
Abano, ' the Magician,' 198 
Abbeville,' G 
Abend ber?, 112 
Adli^enscbwyl. 84 
Advice to Tourists, xviii 
^Eggischhorn, Mt., 108 
.^•Irlenbach Fall, 107 
Agassiz, 107 

Agues of Hungary, cnielty 

at Konigsfelden, 128 
Ahr Valley, 37 
-^igle, on the Simplon, 151 
Aigueblanche, 181 
Aiguilles Rouges, 159 
Aime, ISl 
Airolo, 96 



Aix (Provence), 20 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 29 
Aix-les-Bains, 175 
Alagna, 192 
Alassio, 220 
Albbruck frail), 49, 54 
Albenga, 220 

Albert of Habsburg, xxx ; 

his murder, 12S 
Albertville, 180 
Albignv. St Pierre d', 177 
Albis. Mt., 79 
Albisbiunii, Baths, 79 
Albula Pass. 76 
Aletsch Glacier, 103 
Alessandria, 207 
Allalein Glacier, 164 
Allee Blanche, 184 
AlliOres, 124 
AUinges, 1.".3 
Alhveg. 103 
Alpbach Fall, 106 



Alpengliihen, xxviii 
Alpinula, Julia. 131 
Alpnach, 90, 102 
Alps, Nature in the,xxviii; 

Societv, xxix 
Altdorf,'92 
Altmann, Mt., 62 
Altmatt, 79 
Altstatten, 63 
Alva. 24 
Amberieu, 15 
Amiens, 7 
Amphion, 152 
Amsteg. 93 
Amsterdam, 32 
Anatomical Collections, 32 
Anclave, Col d', 184 
Andeer, 74 

Andermatt.St. Gothard, 94 
An der Matt, Formazza, 

1G5 

Andernach (Rhine), 37 



INDEX. 



V 



Andora Castle, 220 
Ang^era, 190 

Animals in the Alps,xxviii 
Annecy, 174 
Annemasse, 167 
Anniviers, Val d', IGO 
Anterne, Col d', 153 
Antibes, 22 

Antiquities, see * Chris- 
tian,' ' Egyptian,' ' Me- 
diaeval,' ' Roman re- 
mains.' 

Antwerp, 29 

Anzasca, Val, 164 

Anzeidaz, 152 

Aosta, 182 

Apollinarisberg, 36 

Appenv/eier, 45 

Appenzell, 62 

Aqueduct Kaltwasser, 165 

Arbedo, 96 

Arbon, GO 

Arcole, 197 

Arenenber^^ Castle, 56 

Arenzano, 220 

Argenti^re, 159 

Ariberg Pass, 60 

Aries, 18 

Arminius, 31 

Arnheim, 33 

Arnold the Patriot, 91, 103 
Arolla Glacier, 160 
Arona, 189 
Arpenaz Fall, 108 
Arras, 6 

Artevelde, Jacques van, 27 
Arth, 99 

Arve, Junction with the 

Rhone, 142 
Arveiron, Fall, 172 
Ascona, 188 
Assmannshausen, 39 
Auberges, xxi 
Auen, 70, 100 
Aufnau, Isle of, 66 
Augst, 53 

Augustus Csesar, 182, 219 
Avalanches, xxviii, 71, 107, 

, 116, 120 
Avenches, 131 
Avignon, 17 
Axenberg. Mt., 91 
Ayer, 161 ' 

Baar, 80 
Bach Alp, 117 
Bacharach, 39 
Baden, Switzerland, 54 
Baden-Baden, 44 
Bagne, Val de, 157 
Balferin, Mt., 161 
Balfries, Mt., 68 
Balm, Col de, 158 
Balm, Schiichen Thai, 71 
Balmat, Jacques, 173 



Balme, La, Little St. 

Bernard Pass, 183 
Balsthal, 136 
Balzers, 64 

Barberine, Cascade, 159 
Bard Castle, 182 
Barlisgrube, 128 
Barneveldt, 32 
Basle, 51 
Baths— 

Aix-la-Chapelle, 29 

Aix-les-Bains, 175 

Albisbrunn, 79 

Baden, Swiss, 54 

Baden-Baden, 44 

Caille, La, 174 

Dieppe, 7 

Ems, 46 

Evian, 153 

Felsenegg, 80 

Gervaix, St., 168 

Heinrichsbad, 61, 64 

Homburg, 48 

Kreutznach, 39 

Loeche, 121 

Meltigen, 135 

Moritz, St., 76 

Ostend, 26 

Pfatiers, 68 

llagatz, 68 

Kigi Kaltbad, 87 

Bosenlaui, 109 

Saxon, 160 

Schinznach, 54, 123 

Schlangenbad, 47 

Schv/albach, 47 

Stachelberg, 71 

Weissbad, 62 

Wiesbaden, 47 

Wild bad, 45 

Wilhelmsbad, 42 
Baveno, 166, 189 
Bayard, Chevalier, 196 
Bears of Berne, 126 
Beattenhohle, 118 
BeaucairC; 1 7 
Beaufort, 181 
Beckenried, 90 
Belfort,- 12 
Bellagio, 186 
Bella ToUa, 160 
Bellegarde, 15 
Bellenz, 96 
Bellinzona, 96 
Bells, peals of, 27 
Bendorf, 37 

Berchtold of Z;\hringen,126 
Bergamo, 196 
Bergstrasse, 43 
Bernard, St., 145, 158, 174 

Pass. Gt. St., 156 

Bernard Pass, Little St., 
1S3 

Berncastel, 23 
Berne, 125 



Bernese Oberland, 105 
Bernhardin Pass, 75 
Bernina Pass, 76 
BesancoHj 12 
Bevieu'x mine, 151 
Bex, salt-mines,151 
Biasca, 96 
Biberbriick, 78 
Biberegg, de.Beding, 79, 99 
Biebrich, 40 
Biel, 134 
Bienne, 184 
Bies Glacier, 162 
Bietigheim. 45 
Bingen, 39 
Bionay, 185 

* Birmingham of Belgium,' 

28 

Birr, 128 

Birs, river, 134 

Bisi Thai, 100 

Bivio-Stalla, 76 

Black Forest, 45, 49 

Blanc, Mtv, Ascent, 173 

Back of, 181 

' Savoy side of, 180 

Blasien, St., 49 

BUimlis Alp, 120 

Boden See, 59 

Bonhomme, Col du, 134 

Bonn, 36 

Bon-nan t Falls, 184 

Bonndorf, 49 

Bonneville, 167 

Bonnivard, 141, 150 

Books, illustrative of local- 
ities, xxvi 

Foreign, xix, xxvii 

Boppart, 38 

Borca, 164 

Bornhofen, 38 

Borromean Isles, 189 

Borromeo, Cardinal,190,193 

Bose Seite, 107 

Stein, 113 

Bossons Glacier, 173 

Botany, 32, 88, 97, 154, 162 

Botzberg, 54 

Bout du Monde, 177 

Boulogne, 5 

Bourant, Nant, 184 

Bourget, Lake, 174 

Bourg St. Maurice, 181 

Bouveret, 153 

Braganza, Princess Maria's 
death, 182 

* Bramafam ' Tower, 182 
Brandenburg, 49 
Brassus, Le, 132 
Braubach, 38 
Bregaglia, Val, 75 
Bregenz, 60 

Brescia, 196 
Breuil, 163 
Breven, Mt., 172 



VI 



INDEX. 



Brezon, Mt., 16S 

Brian9on, 16 

Brieg, 165 

Brienz, Lake, 110 

Brignolles, 21 

Broek, 33 

Brohl, 37 

Brothliusi, 122 

Brou^'hton, 148 - 

Bruchsal, 44 ; 

Bruges, 27 

Brugii, 123 

Briinig Pass, 102 

Brunneii, 91 

Brussels, 24 

Brussone, 192 

Buet, 31t., 143, 159, 170 

Buiksloot, 33 

Bulle, 124 

Buocliserhorn, 90 

Bilrgeln, 93 

Biirgenstock, 90 

Busalla, 20S 

Buttier, river, 182 

Bvron. 112, 114, 124, 131, 

142, 145, 149, 150, 151, 

152, 153, 194, 207 

Cadenabbia, 186 
Csecina, 54, 131, 157 
Caesar, 22, 24, 34 
Caille, La, Bridge, 174 
Calais, 6 

Calame, 52, 127, 140 
Calanda, Mt., 68 
Calvarys, 30, 166, 191 
Calvin, 141, 157, 183 
Cama, 75 
Camerlata, 98 
Camisards, 19 
Campo Dolcino, 74 
Canero, 188 
Cannes, 21 

Canning, Mrs. Stratford, 
147 

Cannstadt, 46 
Canobbio, 188 
Capolago, 97 
Cappel, 79 
Capulets, 197 
Cardinell gorge, 74 
Carlotta, Villa, 187 
Carlsruhe, 44 
Casaccia, 75 
Castasegna, 75 
Castel (Mayence), 40 
Cat's Castle, 38 
Caub, 39 

Cenere, Monte, 97 
Cenis, Mt., Pass, 174 
Ceppo Morelli, 166 
Ceritalco, Duchess, 220 
Cette, 19 
Cergues, St., 14 
Cervin, Mt., 162 
Chaiscs-a-porteurs, xxv 



Chalans, Ct. llene, 182 
Chalets, xxix 
Challant, Val, 192 
Chalons, 14 
Cliambery, 176 
Chamois, xxviii 
Chamouny, 170 

Routes to, 107 

Chamousset, 177 
Cliampagnole, 14 
Champery, 154 
Chandolin, 123 
Chapeau, Chamouny, 171 
Chapiu, 184 

Charlemagne, 30, 34, 37, 98, 

132, 157 
Charleroi, 22 
Charles L, 148, 179 
Ciiarles of Burgundy, 13, 

130, 132 
'Charmettes, Les,' 177 
Charteuse, Grande, 177 
Chasseral, Ascent, 134 
Chat, Mt. du, 176 
Chateau d'CEx, 123 

Duing, 174 

Chatillon (Aosta), 182 : 

(Sixt), 143 

Chaudfontaine, 28 
Chaumont, Ascent, 133 
Chaux-de-Fonds, 134 
Chavornav, 13, 132 
Chede, 169 

Cheese, xxix, 70, 102, 123 
Cheminee, Ascent, 172 
Ciiene, 144 
Cheville, Col de, 152 
Chiasso, 9/ 
Chiavenna, 74 
Childe Harold, 152 
Chillon Castle, 150 

Prisoner of, 141,145 

Chimney-sweeps. 75 
Chivasso, 181, 208 
Christian, Earlv Remains, 

15, 64,72, 75,96,118, 157, 

181, 195, 198 
Cima di Jazi, 163 
Cimes Blanches, 192 
Cirque d 'Hannibal, 183 
Ciarens, 149 
Cleves, 33 

Cluses (Geneva), 168 
Coblenz, 37 
Cogoleto, 220 
Coire, 72 
Col de Balm, 158 

Cheville, 152 

Colico, 186 

Col ma, Mt., 191 

Cologne, 35 

Eau de, xix 

Cologny, 152 
Columbus, 211, 220 
Comacino, 187 
Comerio, 109 



Combal, Lake, 184 
Comballe, 123 
Combe, Fond de la, 143 
Como, 187 ; Lake, 1S5 
Confederation, Early Swiss^ 
90 

Conflans, 181 
Constance, Lake, 59 
Contamines, 184 
Conveyances, xxii 
Coppet, 144 
Coriun, Mt., 123 
Cormayeur, 183 
Cornet'tes, Mt., 154 
Corniche Pass, 218 
Corvatsch Glacier, 76 
Coster the printer, 32 
Cossonay, 132 
Courrendlin, 135 
Courtray, 23 
Coverdale's Bible, 57 
Cramont, Mt., 183 
Crecy, Battle, 5 
Crepin Cascade, 169 
Cretinism, xxviii 
Crevasses, xxviii, 117 
Crevola. 166 
Cronberg, Mt., 48 
Cruseille, 174 
Culoz, 15, 70 

Dachsen, 50 
Dala, river, 121 
Dames, Plain des, 184 
Dance of Death, 52, 84 
Dard cascade, 173 
Darmstadt, 41 
Dauben See, 121 
Davos, 69 
Davy, Sir H., 144 
Dazio gorge, 96 
Delemcmt, 135 
Delft, 31 
Denis, St., 7 

Dent de Jaman Pass, 124 

de Morales, 152 

du Midi, 152 

d'Oche, 153 

Deschwanden's Paintings, 

57, 81, 83, 127 
Desenzano, 196 
Deutz (Cologne), 34 
Devens mine, 151 
Devil's Bridge, Cenis Pass, 

177 

• St. Gotthard 

Pass, 94 
Diablerets Pass, 151 
Diday, 127, 140 
Didier, St., Pre, 183 
Dieppe, 7 
Diessenhofen, 55 
Dijon, 13 

Diligences, Swiss, xxii 
Dinant, 22 
Diodati, Villa, 152 



INDEX. 



£)issentis, 77 
Distances, xxiii 
Distel chalets, 164 
Dobbia, Col, 192 
D'CEx. Chateau, 123 
Dole (France), 13 
Dole, Mt., Ascent, 142 
Dorao d'Ossola, 165 
Dora, river, 182 
Doria, 220 

Dornach, Battle-field, xxx, 
Dort, 31 [53, 135 

Douai, 6 
Dovaine, 152 
Dover, 6 

Dow, Gerard, xxvii 
Drachenfels, 36 
Draguignan, 21 
Dranse, river, 157 

valley, 153 

Drusus, 38, 41, 128 
Duing, Chateau, 174 
Duisburg, 33 

Dumas — Chateau d' If, 18; 

Lucerne, 90; Gemmi,120 
Diindengrat, 115 
Diisseldorf, 33 
Dutch Painting, xxvii 
Duties on imports, xix 
Dykes of Holland, xxvii 

Eastern Switzerland, 58 
JEau Noire gorge, 159 
Eben Alp, 62 
Ecluse.Fort del', 16, 142 
Egeri, Lake, 79 
Elgmont's death, 24 
Egyptian Remains, 32, 179 
Ehrenbreitstein, 37 
Eifel, Volcanic, 28, 37 
Eigen, 100 
Eigenthal, 85 
Einsiedeln, 78 
Electric telegraph, xxii 
Elizabeth of Austria, 128 
Elm, 71 
Eltville, 40 
Emme, river, 101 ] 
Emmenthal, 101 
Emmerich, 33 
Ems, 46 

Engadine, 69, 76 
Engelberg, 104 
Engelhorn, 109 
Enge (Berne), 127 
Engi Fall (Sernft), 70 
Entlibuch, 101 
Entomology, 94, 162 
Epernay, 10 
Erasmus, 31, 52 
Erlach, 118 
Esa, 219 

Escher von der Linth, 68 
Escholzmatt, 101 
Este, Villa, 187 
Etroubles, 158 



Evian, 153 
Evolena, 100 
' Excelsior,' 156 
Expenses of travelling, xvii 

Fabroni, Engineer, 177 
Fabler See, 63 
Fahner, 107 
Faido, 96 

Falkenstein, Lords of, 136 
Falkniss, Mt., 68 
Falls of mountains — 

Diablerets, 152 

Maglan, 1C3 

Piuro, 75 

Hossberg, 98 
Falls of v/ater — 

Aar, 107 

Alpbach, 106 

Arpenaz, 168 

Arveiron, 172 

Barberine, 159 

Bon-nant, 184 

Crepin, 169 

Dala, 121 

Dard, 173 

Engi, 70 

Fiitschbach, .71 

Giessbach, 110 

Handeck, 107 

Madesimo, 70 

Nant-Deut, 143 

Pelerins, 172 

Petit Coeur, 181 

Pissevache, 155 

B^ichenbach, 109, 110 

Rhine, 49, 50 

Sallenche, 155 

Schmadribach, 114 

Schreyenbach, 71 

Staubbach, 114 

Tosa, 166 

Varenna, 1S6 
Farel, 140 
Fariolo, 166, 189 
Fatschbach Fall, 71 
Faulhorn, Ascent, 117 
Faverges, 180 
Fee village, 164 
Fees, Pyramides des, 169 
Feldkirch, 64 
Fellenberg, M. de, 127 
Felsenegg, SO 
Felsenmeer, 49," 
Fenetre, Col de la, 157 
Fenis Castle, 182 
F^er-a-Cheval, 113 
Fernex, 142 
Ferret, Col de, 157 
Filiaz path, 172 
Finale, 220 
F^indeln Glacier, 162 
Finsteraarhorn, 108 
Flea in glaciers, xxviii 
Flegere, Mt., 172 
Flemish Painting, xxviii 



Flims, 7? 

Fluelen, 92 

Flumet, 181 

Foix, Gaston de, 196 

Folkestone, 5 

Fonde de la Combe, 143 

Fontainebleau, 13 

Foppiano gorge, 166 

Forbes, Professor, 160 

Forclaz, 159 

Formazza, Val, 106 

Fort de TEcluse, 16, 142 

Four, Col du, 184 

Francois de Sales, St,, 174 

Frankfort, 42 

Frederic the Gt., 57 

Freiburg (Germany), 45 

Frejus, 21 

Freudenberg, Mt., 61 
Fribourg (Swiss), 130 
Friedrichshafen, 46, 60 
Frohn Alp, 91 
Frouard, 11 
Frutigen, 120 
Furca Pass, 95 
Furka, Little, 115 
Furst, 91 

Gadmen Thai, 94 
Gais Baths, 62 
Galenstock, Mt., 95 
Galileo, 195 
Gall, St., 61 
Galm, Mt., 122 
Gansbrunnen, 134 
Garda, Lago di, 197 
Gastern Thai, 120 
Geant, Col du, 173 
Geislingen, 23 
Gelmerhorn, 95 
Geltenberg Glacier, 123 
Gemmi Pass, 120 
Gemsberg, Mt., 113 
General Advice, xviii 
Generoso, Mt., 97 
Geneva, 137 

• Lake of, 144 

to Italy, 144 

Genevre Pass, Mt., 16, 173 
Genoa, 209 

Geology, 28, 34, 43, 55, 68, 

88, 97, 99, 151 
Gerard Dow, xxvii 
Germains, St., Castle, 182 
German Painting, xxviii 
Gersau, 90 

Gervaix, St., Baths, 103 
Geschenen, 94 
Gessler, 93 
Gessner, 58 
Gessenay, 123 
Gex, 14 
Ghent, 27 
Gibbon, 146 
Giessbach Falls, 111 
Gietroz Glacier, 156 ^ 



INDEX, 



Oiffre, river, M3 
Gingolph, St., 154 
Giordano, 2S 
Giornico, 96 
Giotto, 19S 
GisHfluh, 129 
Giswvl, 103 
Giulib, Isola di S., 1C»1 
Glacier-flea, xxviii 
Glaciers, xxviii, — 

Aar, 108 

Aletsch, 108 

Allalein, 164 

Areentiere, 159 

Arolla, 160 

Bernina, 76 

Bies, 162 

Bois, 170 

Bossons, 173 

Bourant, Nant, 184 

Corvatsch, 76 

Evolena, 1<30 

Findeln, 162 

Geltenberg:, 123 

Gietroz, 156 

G5rner, 163 

Grindelwald, 117 

Hiifi, 94 

Kaltwasser, 165 
, Mer de Glace, 172 

Jlorteratsch, 76 

Palu (Bernina), 76 

' E,ed Glacier,' 160, 162 

Pvhone, 95, 108 

riOs;itscli, 76 

PLOsenlaui, 109 

Sardona, 69 

Steinen, 94 

Taconnaz, 170 

Todi, 71 

Trelatete, 169, 184 

Tschingel, 114 

Zermatt, 162 

Zinal. 161 

Zmutt, 162 
Glaciers extinct, 94, 107, 

133, 141, 154, 159 
Glarnisch, Mt., 70 
Glaru?, 70 
Glatt, river, 64 
Glion, 150 
Glys, 164 
Goar, St., 38 
Goarsliausen, St., 38 
Godesberg, 36 
Goctlie. 168 
Goitres, xxviii 
Goldan, 99 
<.Tondo gorge, 165 
(iondolas, 198 
(ionzagas, 1^7 
Gorcuni, 31 
( lorner Grat, 163 

Glacier, 163 

Gotteron gorge, 130 
Gotthard Pass, St., 91 



Gottishausen, 129 
Gottlieben Castle, 56 
Grands Mulcts, 173 
Grandson, xxx, 132 
Grauebndten, 72 
Grauehorner, Mts., 68 
Gravedona, 1S6 
Greiffen Lake, 58 
Grenoble, 16 
Gressonay, 192 
Grey Coniederations, 72,77 
Grey, Lady Jane, 57 
GraveUona, 166 
Gries Pass, 166 
Grimsel Pass, 107 
Grindelwald, 117 
Grisons History, 72 
Grotius, 31 
Griiben, 161 
Grutli, xxx. 91 
Gruyere, 124 
Gspaltenhorn, Mt., 114 
Gsteig, 123 
Guides, xxv 
Gutenberg, printer, 40 
Guttanen, 107 

Haag, 64, 67 
Haarlem, 32 

Habsburg, House of, xxx, 

129 
Hague, 31 
Handeck, 107 
Hannibal, 176, 183, 190 
Hanse Towns, 34 
Harder, Mt., 112 
Hasli Thai, 106, 109 
Hauensteia Pass, Lower, 

81 

• Upper, 136 

Hausen, 79 

Haute Combe, 176 

Havre, 8 

Heidelberg, 43 

Pleights of ?.rountains and 

Passes, xiv 
Heilbronn, 46 
Heinrichsbad, Baths, 61, 64 
Hell, Valley of, 49 
Hemling. 27, 28 
Herbageres, 159 
Heremence, Val d', IGO 
Ilergiswyl, 90 
Herisau,* 64 

Herzogenbuchsee, 129, 136 
Hindelbank, 127, 129 
Hinter-llhine, 75 
History, Swiss, xxx 
Hochstetten, 101 
Hofwyl, 127 
Hohle Gasse, 98 
Holbein, 52, 135 
lloUenplatte, 107 
Hollenthal, -59 
Homburg, 48 
Hongrin, river, 124 ' 



Horgen, 66 
Horn, Count, 24 
Hcirnlein, 163 
Horses, xxiv 
Hospices — 

Bernard, Gt. St., IcS 
■ Little St., ISS 

Cenis Pass. 178 

Gotthard, St., 95 

Grimsel, 107 

Simplon, 165 
Hospenthal, 95 - 
Hotels, xxi 
Hufi Glacier, 94 
Hiimmelswald, 65 
Hunenberg, Henry von, 95 
Huss, 59 

Hutten, Ulrich. von, 63 
Hyeres, 21 

Ibach, 100 

Ilanz, 77 

Illier, Val d', 154 

Illu|^trative Books, xxvi 

Imhof, 107 

Immensee, 98 

Imports into England, xix 

Inden, 122 

Ingebohl, 100 

Interlaken, 111 

Intra, IBS 

Intragna, 188 

Irenasus, 15 

Isella, 165 

Isola Bella, 189 

Ivrea, 182 

Jacob, St., Battle-field, xxx, 
53, 135 

Jaman, Dent de. Pass, 124: 
Jardin (Chamounv), 171 
Jazi, Cima di, 163 
Jean d'Aulps, St., 152 

de Maurienne, 177 

Jeoire, St., 143 
Jerome of Prague, 60 
Jerusalem Sepulchre, 27 
Jews executed, 150 
Joch Pass, 104 
Johannisberg, 40 
Joly, Viout, 169 
Jon, Col de, 192 
Jordaens, 30 

Jour-plane, Col de, 152 .' 
Joux, Chateau de, 13 

Lac de, 132 

Jovet, Mt., 184 
Julia Alpinula,131 
Julien, St., 174 
Julier Pass, 75 
Juliet's Tomb, 197 
Jungfrau, 116 
Juras, 134 

Kaiserslautern, 23 
Kaiserstuhl (BrUnig), 103 



INDEX. 



ix 



Kalfeuser Thai, 69 
Kaltwasser Glacier, 165 
Kara or, Mt., 62 
Kandersteg, 120 
Kander Thai, 120 
'Katz' on the Rhine, 38 
Katzenstrick, 79 ^ 
Kehl (Rhine), 11 
Kerns, 103 
Kienthal, 115 
Kinzig Kulm, 71 
Kirschen, 106 
Klausen Pass, 71 
Klemenskirche, 38 
Klonthal, 70, 100 
Klus gorge (Geiiimi), 120 

(Hauenstein), 136 

Koenigstein, 48 
Konigsfelden, 128 
Konigswinter, 36 
Kosziusko, 135 
Kratzernhriicke, 64 
Kray Alp, 63 
Kreutzli Pass, 77, 94 
Kreutznach, 39 
Kiiblis (Prattigau), 69 

Mt., 150 

Kurfilrsten, Mts., 68 
Kiissnacht, 89, 98 
Kyburgh, Counts of, 119 

Laacher Lake, 37 
La Balme, 183 
Lachen, 66 

* Ladders,' at Loeche, 121 

Laeken, 25 

Lagnieux, 176 

Lahn river, 46 

Lahnstein, 38 

Laing, xxix, 149, 155, 207 

Lakes — 

Annecy, 174 

Bach Alp, 117 

Bienne, 133 

' Black and White,' 76 

Bourget, 174 

Brienz, 110 

Como, 186 

Constance, 59 

Dauben See, 121 

* Dead, Lake of the,^ 95 

Egeri, 79 

Fahler See, 63 

Garda, 197 

Geneva, 144 

Greiffen See, 58 

Joux, 132 

Klon, 70 

Laacher See, 36 

Lecco, 186 

Lowertz, 99 

Lucendro, 95 

Lucerne, 89 

Lugano, 97 

Lungern, 103 

Maggiore, 187 



Lakes — 

Mattmark See, 164 

Neuchatel, 132 

Ober-alp, 78 

(Eschinen, 115, 120 

Orta, 191 

Sarnen, 103 

Schwartzsee, 163 

Sempach, 81 

Thun, 118 

Titi See, 49 

Varese, 190 

Wallenstadt, 68 

Zug, 99 

Ziirich, 65 
Lammergeier, xxviii 
Landenberg, 85, 103 
Landing abroad, xviii 
Landquart (rail), 64, 72 
Langhans' Tomb^l27 
Langnau, 101 
Languages, Foreign, xvii 
Languages, Vocabulary, xl 
Languard, Piz, 76 
Lanslebourg, 177 
Larringes, 153 
La Tuille, 183 
Lauenen Valley, 123 
Laufelfingen, 81 
Laufen (Rhine-Falls), 59 

(Val Moutier), 135 

LaufFenburg, 54 
Laupen, Battle, xxx, 130 
Laura de Sades, 17 
Laurent, St. (Juras), 14 

du Pont, 16 

Lausanne, 145 
Lauterbrunnen, 114 
Lavater, 57 
Laveno, 188 
Lecco, 186 

'Leeds of Belgium,' 28 
* Legio rap ax, 54 
Legnone, Mt., 186 
Leman, Lake, 144 
Lenno, 187 

Lenzkirch (Black Forest), 
49 

' Leper's Tower,' 183 
Le Pont, 132 
Lerins Isles, 22 
Les Rousses, 14 
L'Esseillon Castle, 177 
Leuk, see ' Loeche.* 
Levantina, Val, 96 
Leyden, 32 
Liddes, 157 

Lieben stein and Sternherg 

Castles, 38 
Liege, 28 
Liestal, 13G 

Lille, 6 [128 
Limmat, river, 54, 56, 65, 
Lindau, 60 

Linth, river, 65, 67, 70 
Linth-thal, 67, 70, 71 



Lira, river, 75 
Loano, Battle, 220 
Locarno, 188 
Locomotion, xxi 
Loeche, 122 

. Baths, 121 

Lcevestein Castle, 31 
Lohnkutscher, xxiv 
Loison, 92 
Lombard Tov/ers, 96 
London to the Continent, 
see general ' Contents.' 

" to Switzerland, ad~ 

vice, xviii, xxxi, xxxix 
Longfellow, 156 
Lorch, 39 
Louis Philippe, 73 
Lourtier, 157 

Louvain, 28 

Lowertz, Lake, 99 

Luc, Le, 21 r 

Lucendro, Lake, 95 

Lucerne, 82 

Lake, 89 

Lucius, St., 64, 72 

Ludlow, 148 

Ludwigshafen, 41 

Lugano, 97 

Luggage, xviii 

Luino, 188 

Lukmanier Pass, 96 

Lungern, 104 

Lake, 103 

Lurlei-Feisen, 38 

Luther, 41, 66, 216 

Liitschine, river, 113 

Luxembourg, 20 

Luziensteig, 64 

Lyons, 15 

Lys, Val de, 192 

Macdonald, 74 ; 
Macon, 14 
]Macugnaga, 164 
Maderan Thai, 94 
INIadesimo Falls, 70 
Magadino, 188 
Magenta, Battle, 208 
Maggiore, Lake, 185, 187 
Maglan, 168 
Mahrenhorn, Mt., 104 
Maienwand, 95 
Maira, river, 75 
Maistre, Cte. Xavierle, 182 
Majolica, 186 
Malesco, 188 
Malibran's Tomb, 25 
M alines, 27 
Malleray, 134 
Maloja Pass, 75 
' Manchester of Belgium,'' 
27 

' Manfred,' Byron, 112 
Mannheim, 41 
Mantes, 9 
Mantua, 197 



X 



Map of Switzerland, XX, 57 
]V[arceau, 37 
Marcheiruz, Col de, 132 
Marengo, Battle, 157, 1S2, 
20S 

Marmot, xxviii 
Marseilles, IS 
Martigny, 156 
ZMartin, St., (Cliamouny,) 
16S 

Martin, St., (Val d'Aosta,) 
182 

Martinsbriick, 76 
Martinsloch, 117 
Massena, 100, 220 
Matsys, Quintin, 30 
Matt, 70 

Matterhorn, I\rt., 162 
Mattmark See, 164 
Maurice, Bourg St., 181 
Maurice, St., (Siraplon,) 

152, 154 
Maurienne, St. Jean, 177 
Mausethurm, 39 

Mauvais Pas,'* 172 
Ma5-ence, 40 
Mayenl'eld, 72 
Mazzarda, robbers, 88 
Mediaeval Kemains, 13, 17, 

53, 196 
Megeve, 181 
Meillerie Rocks, 153 
Meinau isle, 60 
Melchthal Valley, 103 
Melegnano, Battle, 19r3 
Meltigen, Baths, 135 
Menaggio, 186 
Mendrisio, 97 
Menthon Castle, 174 
Mentone, 219 
Mer de Glace, 172 
Mestre, 198 
Mettenberg, Mt., 117 
Metternich's Castle, 40 
Metz, 22 

Meuse, Valley, 26 
Mevringen, 106 
Michel, St., 177 
Midi, Dent du, 152 
Milan, 192 

Mincio, river, 196, 197 
Mischabel, Mt., 161, 164 
Misox, 75 
Modane, 177 
Moglia, 192 
Molaret, 178 
Mole, Mt., 168 
Moleson, Mt., 130 
Mollis, 70 
Monaco, 219 
Monch, Mt., 90. 115 
Money, Table of, xvii 
Moms, 24 

Mont— See ' Mountains.' 
Montague, Lord, 53 
Montalto Castle, 182 



INDEX. 



Montanvert, 171 
Montbovon, 123 
Montebello, Battle, 208 
Monterone. Mt., 191 
Montets, 170 
Monthey, 154 
Montmelian, 177 
Montorfano, 194 
Montpellier, 19 
IMontreuil, 5 
Montreux, 149 
:\Ionza, 98 
Moordyck, 30 
Moraines, xxviii 
Morat, Battle, xxx, 130 
Morbegno, 77 
Mercies, Dent de, 152 
Moreau, 49, 55 
Morelli, Ceppo, 166 
Morgarten, Battle, xxx, 79, 
98 

Morge, river, 160 

gorge, 153 

Morges, 145 
Moritz, St., Baths, 76 
Moro Pass, 164 
Morteratsch Glacier, 76 
Morzine, 143, 152 
Moselie, river, 23, 28, 37 
Metiers Travers, 13 
Mottet chalets, 184 
Mountains— See p. xiv 
Mouscron, 23 
' Mouse ' Castle, S3 
' Mouse ' Tov.-er, 39 
Moutiers (Tarentaise), 181 
Moutier, Val, 134 
MUhlehorn, 68 
31uhlen, 76 
Mulcts, Grands, 173 
Mulhouse, 12 

3Iumliswyl, 135 [108 
I^Iiinster '(Rhone Valley), 
Munster Thai, 134 
Muotta Thai, 100 
I\lurren, 115 
Murten, 130 

Miirtschenstock, 'Mt., 68 
Mythen, Mts,, 90 

Nafels, Battle, xxx, 70 
Namur, 26 
Nancy, 11 
Nant-P>ourant, 184 
Nant-Dent Falls, 143 
Nant-Noir, river, 159 
Naiu)leon I., 16, 22, 9?, 

155, 157, 165, 197, 212, 

216, 220 
Nassau, 47 

Nave, Kochers de, 150 
Neckar, river, 44 
Necker the Minister, 145 
Neucliatel, 133 
Neuenburg, 133 
Neueneck, 130 



Neuhaus, 118 
Neuhausli, 135 
Neuveville, 133 
Neuwied, 37 
Nev. haven, 7 
Nice, 213 
Nicolai Thai, 162 
Nicolas, St., 162 
Nidau, 133 

Nicderbauen, Mt., 91 
Niederwald, 39 
Niesen, Mt., 119 
Nismes, 19 
Nonnenwerth, 36 
Note, Objects of, xxvii 
* Nouvelle Heloise,' 147. 

148, 149, 153 
Novara, 207 
Novi, 208 

Nufenen Pass, 96, 108, 1S6 
Nymwegen, 31 
Nyoii, 145 

Ober-Alp, 77 
Obergesteln, 108 
Ober-Hauenstein Pass, 136 
Oberhausen, 33 
Oberwesel, 38 
Objects of note, xxvii 
Odenwald, 43 
CEcolampadius, 52 
CEschiuen Lake, 115, 120 
Oifenburg, 45 
Olivone, 96 
Ollen, Col d', 192 
Olten, 81, 129, 136 
Omegna, 192 
Omer, St., 6 
Oneglia, 220 
Oos, 44 
Orange, 17 
Orbe, 132 

Organs, 31, 32, 130 
Ormonts, Vallees, 123 
Oron,l30 

Orsera, Col d', 160 
Orsicres, 157 
Orta, Lake, 191 
Ossola. Domo d', 165 
Ostend, 26 
Ottignies, 26 
Otto Vennius, 28 
Ouches, Les, 170 
Ouchy, 145 

Paccard, Dr., 173 
Padua, 197 

Painters, Swiss, 52, 119, 

127, 133, 140 
Palestro, Battle, 207 
Palimpsests, 195 
Palladio, 197 
Pallanza, 189 
Pallavicini, 211, 213 
Palu Glacier, 76 
I'unix Piiss, 71 



INDEX, 



PantenbrSck, 71 
Paris, 9 

Passes of the Alps — See 

page xiv 
Passport, xvi 
Pedestrians, xx 
Pelerins Cascade, 172 
Pelia, 191 
Pensions, xxi 
Pepin ster, 28 
Persal (Siraplon), 165 
Perte dii Rhone, 16 
Peschiera, 196 
Peter the Gt, 33 
Petit Coeur, 181 
Petrarch, 17, 195 
Pfaffers, Baths, 68 
Pflatz Castle (Rhine \ 39 
Philip ' the Good,' 26 
Pianazzo, 74 
Pichoux rocks, 135 

* Pierre-a-bot; 133 

' Pierre a voir,' 156, 160 
' Pierre Pertuis,' 134 

* Pierres du Niton,' 141 ' 
Pierre, St. (Gt. St. Bern- 
ard), 157 

— d 'Albis:ny, 177 

Isle, 133 

Pilate, Ascent, 85 

Pontius, 36, 85 

Pillon, Col de, 123 
Pissevache Fall, 155 
Piuro, 75 

Plain des Dames, 184 
Plans des lies, 123 1 
Plattenstock, Mt., 104 
Pleiades, Mts., 150 
Piessur, river, 72 
Pliny, 187 
Po, river, 178 
Poly carp, 15 
Pontarlier, 13 
Pont, Le, 132 

Serrant, 183 

Ponte, 76 

Grande, 164 

Pontresina, 76 
Poppelsdorf Chateau, 36 
Porlezza, 97 
Forte-chaise, xxv 
Porte du Cex, 154 
Poschiavo, 76 
Postes, or diligences, xxii 
Post-tarifs, xxiii 
Potter, Paul, xxvii, 32 
Pragel Pass, lOO 
Prague, Jerome of, 60 
Prarion, 169 
Prattigau, 69 
Premia, 166 
Prerayen, 160 
Pre St. Didier, 183 
Prese, Le, 76 
Proz, Cantine de, 158 
Pyramides des Fees, 169 ^ 



Quart Castle, 182 
Queens — Victoria, 27 ; 

Caroline, 187 ; Theodo- 

linda, 98 
Quentin Durward, 28 
Quinto, 96 

Ragatz, Baths, 68 
Railway Tables, xliv 
Rambert, St., 16 
Randa, 162 
Ranzola, Col de, 192 
Ranz de Vaches, xxix 
Rapperschwyl, 66 
Ratrichsboden, 107 
Ravensburg, 46 
Realp, 95 

'Red Glacier,' 160, 162 

Snow, xxviii 

Reding-Biberegg, 79, 99 
Reformation in Switzer- 
land, 57, 59, 67, 80, 129, 
140, 150 
* Refuges,' 178 
Reichenau (Constance), 56- 

— - (Splugen), 73 

Reichenbach, 106 

Upper Fall, 109 

Lower Fall, 110 

Castle, 127 

Reichenstein Castle, 39 
Reichisau chalet, 100 
Remagen, 36 
Rembrandt, xxvii, 32 
Remi, St., 158 
Remo, San, 219 
Renkloch gorge, 84 
Requirements of Tourists, 
xviii 

Reuss, river, 81, 83, 96, 128 
Rezzonico, 186 
Rheims, 10 
Rheineck, 63 
Rheinfelden, 54 
Rheinfels Castle, 38 
Rheinstein Castle, 39 ] 
Rheinthal, 63 
Rhine Routes, vi, xxxi, 

xxxii ; Money, . xvii ; 

Hotels, xxii; Posting, 

xxiii ; Voitures, xxiv ; 

Books, xxvi ; Objects of 

note, xxvii, xxviii ; 

Steamers, and General 

advice, 34 
Rhine, river, 34, 50, 55, 63 

72, 73 

Falls, 49, 50 

Hinter, 73, 75 

Source, 77, 95 

Vorder, 77, 

Rhinnau isles, 50 
Rhone and Arve, 142 

Glacier, 95, 108 

Perte du, 16 

Steamers, 16,J76 

B 



Rhone Valley, 108, 151 
Richmond, Duchess of, 25 
Richterschwyl, 75 
Rienzi, 17 
Riffelberg, Mt., 163 
Rigi, Mt., 86 
Riseten Grat, 69 
Ritter, 184 

Riva (Lago di Garda), 19G 

(Val Sesia). 192 

Riviera, Val, 96 

di Ponente, 218 

Rocco, San, 166 
Rochers de Naye, 150 
Rocking-stone, 154 
Rodolph of Habsburg, xxx, 

129 
Rognac, 18 
Rolandseck, 36 
Romanisch, 72 
Roman Rsmains, 17, 18, 19, 

20, 22, 41, 48, 50, 53, 60, 

72, 129, 131, 134, 135, 

157, 217, 219 
Romanshorn, 60 
Roquefavour Aqueduct, 20 
Rorschach, 60, 63 
Rosa, Monte, 163, 164 
Rosatsch>Glacier, 76 
Rosenberg Castle, 64 
Rosenlaui Glacier, 109 
Rossberg, Mt., 99 
Rossiniere, 124 , 
Rothenthurm, xxx, 79 
Rothhorn, Ascent, 110 
Rothschilds, 42 
Rothsee Lake, 84 
Roththal, 114 
Rotteln Castle, 53 
Rotterdam, 31 
Rotzberg Castle, 85 
Rotzloch gorge, 85 
Rouen, 8 

Rousseau, 13, 133, 140, 14', 
148, 151, 177 

Rousses, Les, 14^ 

Routes, Skeleton,' xxxi 

Routes to Switzerland, time 
and fares, xxxix 

in Eastern Switzer- 
land, 58 

Roya, river, 219 

Ruaras, 77 

Rubens, 27, 28, 30, 35 
Riiblehorn, Mt., 123 
Riidesheim, 40 
Ruppen, Mt., 63 
Ruskin, 162, 179 
Ruthi, 63 

Saanen, 123 ~; 
Saarbriicken, 23 
Saas Thai, 164 
Sachseln, 103 
Saconnex, 142 
Salassins Bridge, 182] 



INDEX. 



Sales, St. Fran<joi3 de, 
174 

Saleve, Mt., 142 
Salgetsch, 160 
Salins, 13 
Sallanches, 168 
Sallenche Fall, 145 
Salmeggia, 196 
Salvatore, Mt., 97 
Sam ad en, 76 
Samoens, 143 
Sanetsch Pass, 123 
San Hocco, 166 
Saone, river, 14, 17 
Sard on a Glacier, 69 
Sargans, 64 
Sarine, river, 123, 130 
Sarnen, Lake, 103 
Sasso Kancio, 186 
Sattel. 79 

Saussure, De, 163, 173, 183, 
1S4 

Savona, 220 
Saxon-ies-Bains, 160 
Scaligers, 197 
Schiichen Thai, 71 
Schalf hausen, 50 
Schalbet GaUerv, 165 
Scheideck Pass, Gt., 109 

Little, 117 

R.Vi, 88 

Scheinige Platte, Mt.,;il2 
Scheveningen, 32 
Schilthorn, Mt., 114 
Schindellegi, 78 
Schinznach, Baths, 54, 128 
Schlangenbad, 47 
Schluchsee, 49 
Schmadribach Fall, 114 
Schnierikon, 65, 66 
Schonengrund, 65 
Schonberg Castle, 39 
Schranenberg, 49 
Schreckhorn, Mt., 117 
Schreyenbach Fall, 71 
Schwalbach, 47 
Schwarenbach, 120 
Schwanau, Isle, 99 
Schwartzhorn, Mt., 114 
Schwartzsee, 163 
Schwingfeste, xxix 
Schwytz, 99 
Scipio, 190 
Scopa, 192 
Sedrun, 77 
Seelisberg, Mt., 91 
Sefinen Thai, 115 
Segnes Pass, 71 
Seiches 144 
Seigne, Col de la, 184 
Seine, river, 9 
Seinbrancliier, 157 
Sempach, L;ike, xxx, 81 
Sennwald, G3 
Sentis, Mt., 62 
Sepey, 123 



Septimer Pass, 76 
Serbelloni Villa, 186 
Serena, Col de, 158 
Sernit Thai, 70 
Serrant, Pont, 183 
Servoz. 170 
Sesia, Val, 192 
Sesto Calende, 190 
* Seven Mountains,' 36 
Sewen, 79, 99 
Seyon, river, 133 
' Sheffield of Belgium,' 
26 

Shelley, 153 
Siebengebirge, 86 
Sierre, 16U 

Sigismund, Emperor, 157 
Signau, 101 
Sihl, river, 58 
Silberhorn, Mt., 114 
Silvaplana, 76 
Simmenthal,122 
Siraplon Hospice, 165 

Pass, 155 

Sinzig, 36 
Sion, 160 

Mont de, 174 

Sitten, 160 
Sitter, river, 62, 64 
Sixt, Valley of, 143 ; 
Skeleton-routes, xxxi 
Snow, red, xxviii 
Soleure, 135 
Solferino, Battle, 197 
Solothurn, 135 
Soma, Battle, 190 
Sommariva Villa, 186 
Sonceboz, 134 
Sonderbund, xxx 
Sondrio, 77 
Soult, Marshal, 92 
Southampton, 8 
Soyhiere, 135 
Spa, 28 

Spietz Castle, 118 

Spires, 41 

Spiringen, 71 

Spliigen Pass, 74 

' Spurs, Battle,* 23 

St. — See next initial of 

words with this prefix. 
Stachelberg, Baths, 71 
(Lauterbrun- 

nen), 114 
Stael, Mad. de, 145 
Stalla, 76 

Stalvedro gorge, 96 
Stalden, 162 
Stans, 104 ' 
Stansstad, xxx, 90 
Stanzerhorn, I\lt., 90, 103 
Staubbach Fall, 114 
Stiiubi, river, 71 
Staulfacher, 79, 91 
Steamers to and from the 
Continent, xxxviii 



Steckborn, 56 
Stefimo, San, 220 
Steig (Holienthal), 94 
Steinberg, 114 
Steinen, 79 

Glacier, 94 

Stein gorge (Albula), 76 

(SchafF hausen), 58 

(Susten Pass), 94 

Stelvio Pass, 186 
Stockhorn, Mt., 119 
Stolzenfels Castle, 38 
Stoos, Mt., 91 
Stoss, Mt, Battle, xxx, 62 
Strahleck Pass, 108, 118 
Strasbourg, 11 
%esa, 189 
Srucco-pedlars, 187 
Stiihlingen, 49 
Stuttgart, 46 
Superga, La, 180 
Surenen Pass, 105 
Sursee, 81 
Susa, 178 
Susten Pass, 94 
Susten (Simplon), 161 
Suwarow, 92, 96, 100 
Swiss People, xxix, xxx 
Switzerland, whence nam- 
ed, 99 

Taconnaz Glacier, 170 
Tassch, 162 
Taglioni, 187 
Talfourd,:i68 
Tamina gorge, 68 
Tamins, 77 
Taninges, 143 
Tarascon, 17 
Tavannes, 134 
Telegraph, Electric, xxii 
Tell, William, xxx, 8S, 91, 
93 

Tenda Pass, 180, 218 
Teniers, xxvii 
Territet, 150 
Tessin, river, 96 
Tete Noire Pass, 159 
Teufelsbriicke, 94 
Theban Legion, 154 
Theodule Pass, St., 163 
Thermometers, xv 
Thiele, river, 133 
Thionville, 22 
Thonon, 152 
Thorwaldsen, 83, 186 
Thun, 119 

Lake, 118 

Tiefenkasten, 76 
Tiefenstein, 49 
Tilly, 43 
Tintoretto, 196 
Tirano, Madonna di, 77 
Tir Federal, xxix 
Titian, 196, 198 
Titi, Lake, 49 



INDEX. 



xiii 



Titlis, Mt., 104 
Todi, Mt., 71 
Todten See, 95, 107 
Toggenburg, 67 
Torembec, 157 
Torno, 187 
Torrent, Col de, 121 
Tosa Falls, 165 
Toulon, 21 
Tournay, 24 

Tourists' . Requirements, 
xix 

Tours, Time for, xviii 

Skeleton, xxxi 

Tournanche, Val, 163 
Tourtemagne, 161 
Toussaint rOuverture, 13 
Trachsellauinen, 114 
Travers, Col de, 159 
Treib, 91 

Trelatete Glacier, 169, 184 

Trelechant, 159 

Tremola, Val, 96 

Tresse, 169 

Treves, 22 

Trient, 159 

Trins, 77 

Trogen, 63 

Troyes, 12 

Triib, Lake, 105 

Truns, 77 

Tschingel Glacier, 114 
Tuille,La, 183 
Turbia, 219 
Turgi, 54 
Turin, 178 
Turlo Pass, 164, 192 
Turtmann Thai, 161 
Tusis, 73 

Tyrol, 60, 64, 76, 197 

Uetliberg, Mt, 58 
Ugine, 180 
Ulm, 46 

Unspunnen Castle, 112 
Unterbriick, 64, 72 
Unter-Hauenstein, 81 
Unterschachen, 71 
Unterseen, 112 
Uri, Bay of, 90 
Urnasch, 63 
Urnerboden, 71 
Urnerloch, 94 
Ursern Thai, 94 
Ursula, St., 35 
Usselle Castle, 182 
Uster, 58 
Utrecht, 33 
Utznach, 65 

Vacherin cheese, 123 

Val. See next initial of 

words with this prefix, 
Valais, Port, 154 
Valence, 17 
Valenciennes, 24 



Valens, 691 
Valery, Port St., 6 
Valteline, 77 
Varallo, 191 
Varen, 160 

Varens, Aiguilles de, 168 
Varenna, 186 
Varese, 190 
Vattis, 69 
Vaucluse, 17 
Vaudois, 180 
Vaulion, Mt., 132 
Vehmgericht, 45 
Velan, Mt , 156 
Velvets, 15, 209 
Venice, 198 
Ventimiglia, 219 
Verbruggen, 30 
Vercelli, 208 
Verena, St., 135 
Verlorenes Loch, 74 
Vernayaz, 155 
Vernex, 149 
VerolUaz, 154 
Verona, 197 

Veronese, Paul, 196, 197 
Verrex Castle, 182 
Verrieres, 133 
Vers 1' Eglise, 123 
Verviers, 28 
Vesdre Valley, 28 
Vevey, 147 
Veyteaux, 150 
Via Mala Pass, 74 
Vicenza, 197 
Vicosoprano, 75 
Victoria, Queen, 27 
Viege, 161 
Viesch, 108 

Viescherhorner, Mts., 90, 
108 

Villafranca, 219 
Villeneuve (Lake of Ge- 
neva), 151 
Villers Abbey, 25 
Vincent, St., 182 
Vinci, Leonardo da, 193 
Vindonissa, 128 
Visp, 161 
Vissoye, 161 
Vitellius 131 
Vocabulary of languages, xl 
Vogelisegg, Mt., 61 
Vogogna, 166 
Voitures, xxiv 
Voltaire, 142 
Voltri, 220 
Vorarlberg Alps, 59 
Vorder-Rhine, river, 75 

Valley, 77, 95 

Vouvry, 154 
Voza, Col de, 169 
Vufflens Chateau, 145 

Waal (Rhine), 31 
Wadeusciiwyl, 66 



Waldenburg, 136 

"Waldshut, 54 
Wallenstadt, Lake, 68 
Warens, Mad. de, 177^ 
Wasen, 94 
Waterloo, 25 
Wattwyl, 65 
Weggis, 90 
Weissbad, Baths, 62 
Weissenburg, 122 
Weissenstein, Ascent, 136 
Weissenthurm, 37 
Weisstannen Thai, 69 
Weissthor Pass, 164 
Wellborn, Mt., 109 
Wellindingen, 49 
Wellington, Duke of, 25 
Welmich, 38 
Welschenrohr, 136 
Wengern Alp, 113, 116 
Werner the Poet, 120 
Wertenstein, 101 
Wesen, 68 

Wetterhorn, Mt., 109, 117 
Wiesbaden, 47 
Wiflisburg, 131 
Wild bad. Baths, 45 
Wild-church, 62 
Wildhaus, 07 
William of Orange, 31 
Wimmis, 119 
Windgelle, Mt., 71 
Windisch, 129 
Winkeln,61 

Winkelried, 81, 103, 104 
Winterthur, 61 
Witts, De, 32 
Wolff the Painter, 107 
Worms, 41 
Wouvermans, xxvii 
Wrestling-matches, xxix 
Wyl, 61 

Yverdon, 132 

Zaandam, 33 

Zahringen, Berchtold of, 
126 

Zasenberg, 107, 117 
Zermatt, 162 
Zillis, 74 

Zimmermann, 128 
Zinal Glacier, 161 
Zmutt Glacier, 160, 162 
Zofingen, 81 
Zschokke, 97, 129 
Zug, 80 ; Lake of, 99 
Ziirich, 56 

to the Rigi, 80 

Escher of, 67 

Zweiliitschinen, 113, 116 
Zweisimmen, 123 
Zwing-feste, xxix, 1 01 
Zwingli, 57, 66, 67, 70, 80 
73 



xiv 



INDEX. 



MOUNTAINS. 



The first reference is to the page, and the second to the height above the sea in 
English feet. 



Abendberg, 112 ... 
^ggischhorn, 108... 

Al'bis, 66, 79 

Altmann, 62 

Axenberg, 91 

Balferin, 161 

Balfries, 68 

Bernina, 76 

Blanc, 173 

Blumlis Alp, 120 ... 

Botzberg, 54 

Breithorn, 90, 114 ... 

Breven, 172 

Brezon, 168 

Bristenstock, 93 ... 
Buochserhorn, 90 ... 
Calanda, 68 ... ... 

Cenere, 97 ... ... 

Cenis, 178 

Cervin, 162 

Chasseral, 134 
Chat, 176 ... ... 

Chaumont, 133 ... 
Colma, 191 ... ... 

Corion, 123 ... ... 

Cornettes, 154 

Cramont, 183 

Diablerets Mts., 152 

Dole, 14 

Eiger, 90, 117 

Engelhorner, 109 ... 

Falkniss, 68 

Faulhorn, 117 
Felsenegg, 80 
Finsteraarhorn, 108 



3000 
7700 
2900 
7000 
2000 
12,300 
8000 
13.000 
16,000 
12,000 
1760 
12,000 
8000 
5500 
9900 
5600 
8500 
1700 
11,700 
14,900 
5000 
5000 
3600 
5000 
4000 
2000 
9000 
10,000 
5500 
12,300 
11,000 
8000 
8000 
3300 
14,200 



Flegere, 172 

Freudenberg, 61 ... 
Galenstock, 95 
Gelmerhoni, 95 
Geltenhorn, 123 ... 

Generoso, 97 

Gislifluh, 129 
Glarnisch, 70 
Gorner Grat, 163 ... 
Grauehorner, 68 ... 
Grimsel, 107 ... ... 

Grosshorn, 115 
Gspaltenhorn, 115... 

Harder, 112 

Hiimmelswald, 65... 
Jungfrau, 116 
Juras, 14, 134 
Kurliirsten, 68 
Languard, 76 

Legnone, 186 

Mahrenhorn, 104... 

Midi, 152 

MiSCHABEL, 161,164 
Mittaghorn, 115 ... 

Mole, 168 

Molgson, 130 

Monch, 90, 115 ... 
Montanvert, 171 ... 
Monterone, 191 

Morales, 152 

Moro, 164 

Miirtschenstock, 68 
Mythen, 90' ... ... 

Niederbauen, 91 ... 
Niesen, 119 



6500 
2700 
11,000 
10,000 
8800 
5500 
3000 
900O 
9000 
8800 
7000 
11,000 
10,000 
4000 
3000 
13,000 

7000 
10,500 
8500 
9500 
10,500 
15,000 
10,000 
5500 
6500 
12,500 
6000 
5000 
9500 
10,000 
7300 
5900 
6000 
7500 



Pilate, 85 6600 

Rigi, 86 5500 

Riilelberg, 163 ... 8000 

Eosa, 164 15,200 

Rosatsch, 76 12,700 

Eossberg, 99 5000 

Eothhorn, 110 ... 7300 

Euppen, 63 3000 

Eublehorn, 123 ... 7700 

Sal eve, 142 4.300 

Salvatore, 97 2900 

Scheinige Platte, 112 6000 
Schilthorn, 115 ... 9000 
Schreckhorn,90, 117 12,500 
Sch\vartzhorn, 90 ... 9000 
Seelisberg, 91 ... 2400 

Sentis, 62 8000 

Silberhorn, 114 ... 12,000 
Stanzerhorn, 103 ... 6000 
Stockhorn, 118 ... 7000 



Stoos, 91 
Stoss, 62 ... 
Titlis, 104 
Todi, 70 ... 
Torrenthorn; 
Tschingelhorn, 115 
Uetliberg, 



4000 

3000 

10,600 

11,500 

122 ... 9500 
9000 
2800 



Vaulion, 132 4800 

Velan, 156 10,500 

Viescherhorner, 10812,600 
Weissenstein, 136 ... 3900 
Weissthor, 164 ...14,000 
Wellborn, 90, 109 ... 11,000 
Wetterhorn,109, 117 11,500 
WindgeUe, 71 ... 9800 



Albula, 76 7700 

Anterne,Cold',143,152 7000 

Arlberg, 60 5500 

Balm, Col de, 158 ... 7000 

Bernard, Gt. St., 156 8000 

Little St., 183 6000 

Bernhardin, 75 ... 6500 

Bernina, 76 7600 

Tionhomme,Coldu,184 8000 

Brunig, 102 3600 

Cenis, 178 6800 

Cheville, Col de (Di- 
ablerets). 152 ... 6600 
Diablerets Pass, 151 6600 
Ferret, Col de, 157 8000 
Foux, Col du, 184 8500 

Furca, 95 7800 

Furka, Little, 115 6800 

Gemini, 120 7000 

Gotthard, St., 91 ... 0:>OO 

Gries, 166 8000 



PASSES. 

Grimsel, 95, 106 ... 7000 
Hauen stein, Upper, 

136 3000 

Lower, 81 2300 

Jaman, 124 50OO 

Joch, 104 7000 

Jour-plane, Col de, 152 6000 

Julier, 76 7600 

Kamor, 62 5500 

Kinzig Kulm, 71 ... 7300 

Klausen, 71 6200 

Kreutzli, 94 7700 

Lukmanier, 96 ... 6300 

Malqja, 75 6000 

Marcheiruz, Col de, 

132 470O 

Moro, 161 8400 

Niifenen, 96 ... ... 8000 

Panix, 71, 77 {^000 

Pillon, Col de, 123 5000 

Pragel, 100 5000 



Sanetsch. 123 ... 7P00 

Scheideck, Gt., 109 6000 

Little, 117 6000 

Segnes, 71,77 ... 8500 

Seigne, Col de la, 184 7600 

Septimer, 76 7600 

Simplon, 155 6600 

Sp]u2;en, 74 7000 

Stelvio, 186 9000 

Strahleck, 108 ... 9900 

Surenen, 104 6700 

Susten, 94 7000 

Tenda, Col di, ISO... 6200 

Tete Noire, 159 ... 4000 
Theodule,St., 163... 11,000 

Tm-lo, 164 8800 

Yia Mala, 74 3000 

Vorder-Ehine, 77 ... 6400 

Yoza. Col de. 169 ... 5500 
Weissthor, 164 ...10,000 

Wengern Alp, 116... 6500 



English and Foreigf 
Thermometers. 
4° Reaumur, or 5° Centigrade 
are equal to 9° Fahrenheit. 



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London ; and it will either be returned by 
post, if desired, or be delivered the day 
following, at Downing Street, to the ap- 
plicant or his order. It may include a 
whole party ; only, the males must be 
named in detail. 

It should be vised in London for all 
the countries proposed to be passed 
through. If already abroad, this can be 
done at Paris, Brussels, Frankfort, Berne, 
Turin, &c., by sending the passport to an 
Embassy, by post'; it will be returned 
with the required visas. Those absolutely 
needless are noted below. 

The simplest way is to write to Lee and 
Carter, 440 West- Strand, London, who 
will have the whole thing arranged 
without trouble : no charge for obtaining 
passport, and but a small one for beauti- 
fully mounting it. 

London Offices for Visas, 8fC, 
France, Savoi/, Nice. 36 King Wil- 
liam St., City. From 1 1 till 4 p.m. Visa, 
As, Sd, 

Belgium. 53 Gracechurch St. Visa ^wedless. 

Holland, 20 Lowndes Sq. Visa gratis, if the passport be left 
24 hours. — Otherwise, 20 Gt. St. Helens, Visa, 5s. 

The Rhine, etc. (Prussia). 108 Fenchurch St. Visa 7ieedless. 

Switzerland. 21 Old Broad St. Visa, 2s. 6d. 

Fiedmont, JV. Italy, Lomhardy, Tuscany, etc. (Sardinia). 31 Old 
Jewry. Visa needless. 

Tyrol, Venetia (Austria). 6 Chandos St., Cavendish Sq. From 
1 2 till 2 p.m. Visa gratis — i7idispensahle. 



Reau- 


Centi- 


Fahrenheit. 


mur. 


grade. 




80 


100 


212 Boiling 


76 


95 


203 


72 


90 


l94 


68 


85 


185 


64 


80 


176 


60 


75 


167 


56 


70 


158 


52 


65 


149 


48 


60 


140 


44 


55 


131 


40 


50 


122 


36 


45 


113 


* 36 


45 


112 Fever 


32 


40 


104 


# 29 


37 


98 Blood 


28 


35 


95 


24 


30 


86 


20 


25 


77 


* 19 


24 


76 Suminer 


16 


20 


68 


12 


15 


59 


* 10 


13 




8 


10 


50 [ate 


4 


5 


41 


# 3 


4 


39 


* 2 


3 


37 


* 1 


2 


35 


* 0-8 


1 


33 


0.0 


0 


32 Freezing 


* - 0-8 


- 1 


30 


- 4-0 


- 5 


23 


- 8-0 


. 10 


14 


. 12-0 


- 15 


5 


=*«=.13-0 


- 17 


1 



* The asterisk marks the near- 
est approximations, omitting 
fractions. 



XVI 



TABLE OF MONEY. 



English. 


France. 
Belgium, 
Switzer- 
land, 
Savoy, 
Piedmont, 
Italy. 


The Ehine. 


Austria. 
Venetia. 
Tyrol. 


Old 
Coinag'e 

of 
North 
Italy. 


Holland. 


Prussia. 


Germany. 


£ *. d. 
. 1 

. . u 

. . 2 
. . 3 
. . 4 
. . 5 


Frs. Cts. 
• 10^ 
. 13 
. 21 
. 311 
. 42 
. 52 


Guil. Cts. 
. 5 
. 6 

1 n 

. 15 
. 19 
. 24 


Th. Ssrr. Pf. 
. \ 10 

. 1 — 

i O 

. 2 6 
. 3 4 

. 4 2 


Fl. Kr. 
. 3 
. 4 

g 

9 

. 12 
. 15 


Fl. Sol. 
4 

. 6 

. 8 
. 12i 
. 16 
. 20 


Zw. Cti. 
12^- 
*. 15| 
. 25 
. 37i 
. 50 
. 62i 


. . 6 
. . 7 
. . 8 
. . 9 

. . 9i 


. 63 
. 73 
. 84 
. 94 
1 — 


. 29 
34 
*. 39 
. 44 
. 47 


. 5 — 
. 5 10 
. 6 8 
. 7 6 
. 7 11 


. 17 

20 
23 
. 26 
. 27 


. 25 
. 29 
. 33 
. 37 
. 40 


. 75 
. 87i 
1 — 
1 12i 
1 19 


. . 10 
. . 11 
. 1 — 
. 1 21 
. 1 8i 


1 5 
1 15 
1 25 

1 50 

2 10 


. 49 
. 54 

58 
69 
1 — 


. 8 4 
. 9 2 

. iU — ' 

. 12 — 
. 17 — 


. 29 
. 32 

35 
[ 42 
1 — 


. 41 
. 46 
. 50 
. 60 
. 85 


1 25 
1 374 
1 50 

1 78 

2 56 


2 — 
. 3 — 
. 3 2 
. 3 4i 
. 4 — 
. 5 — 


2 50 

3 75 

4 — 

4 20 

5 — 

6 25 


1 20 
1 75 
1 90 

1 98 

2 34 
2 92 


. 20 — 

118 
13 4 
1 10 — 
1 20 — 


1 10 
1 45 

i 01 

1 57 

2 20 
2 58 


1 50 
1 58 

1 67 

2 — 
2 50 


4 50 

4 75 

5 — 

6 — 

7 50 


. 6 — 
. 7 — 
. 8 — 
, 9 — 
. 10 — 


7 50 

8 75 

10 — 

11 25 

12 50 


3 51 

4 10 

4 48 

5 26 
5 85 


2 — — 
2 10 — 

2 20 — 

3 — — 
3 10 — 


3 30 

4 5 

4 40 

5 15 
5 51 


3 — 

3 50 

4 — 

4 50 

5 — 


9 — 
10 50 

12 — 

13 50 
15 — 


. 11 — 
. 12 — 
. 13 — 
. 14 — 
. 15 — 


13 75 

15 — 

16 ^5 

17 50 

18 75 


6 43 

7 2 

7 60 

8 19 
8 77 


3 20 — 

4 10 — 

4 20 — 

5 — — 


6 26 

7 36 

8 11 
8 44 


5 50 

6 — 

6 50 

7 — 
7 50 


16 50 

18 — 

19 50 

21 — 

22 50 


. 16 — 
. 17 — 
. 18 — 
. 19 — 

1 


20 — 

21 25 

22 50 
28 75 
25 — 


9 36 
9 94 

10 53 

11 11 
11 70 


5 10 — 

5 20 — 

6 — — 
6 10 — 

6 20 — 


9 20 
9 56 

10 31 

11 6 
11 42 


8 — 

8 50 

9 — 
9 50 

10 — 


24 — 

25 50 

27 — 

28 50 
80 — 


1 10 — 

3 

4 


87 50 
50 — 
75 — 
100 — 
125 — 


17 55 
23 40 
85 10 
46 80 
58 50 


10 — — 
IQ 

20 — — 
26 20 — 
33 10 — 


17 33 
23 24 
35 6 
46 48 
58 30 


15 — 
20 — 
30 — 
40 — 
50 — 


45 — 
60 — 
90 — 
120 — 
150 — 


8 

10 


150 — 
175 — 
200 — 

250 — 


70 20 
81 90 
93 60 
105 30 
117 — 


40 — — 
46 2() — 
53 10 — 
60 — — 
66 20 — 


70 12 
81 54 
98 86 
105 18 
117 — 


60 — 
70 — 
80 — 
90 — 
100 — 


180 — 
210 — 
240 — 
270 — 
300 — 



The above is practically the usual exchange allowed to Tourists. 
A slight difference will occur as the exchange falls or rises. 



UlNQUAGES MONEY. 



2. Languages. 

English is spoken at all the principal hotels, larger railway sta- 
tions, and public offices ; French by most persons of respectability 
everywhere. But some special knowledge of local language is 
invaluable ; and something more than English must be spoken in 
certain places. Those therefore who do not possess the former, 
will find all the common terms requisite in French, German, 
Italian, at the end of this Introduction. — Though, 'one of the 
Smiths ^ passed solitarily through St. Gall and Appenzell on the 
strength of 'brod' and 'bett,' and not only is there no trace of 
his failure, but popular tradition conserves his memory to the 
glorification of English Enterprise. 

3. Money. 

A little attention will easily master the foreign varieties. 

For short rough calculation — 

France and Belgium, 1 napoleon = 20 francs = I65. ; 1 franc = 
100 centimes, or 20 sous = say, 10c?. ; 10 centimes, or 2 sous = Ic?. 

Switzerland, The same, except sous, w^hich are not current. 

Savoy and Piedmont, The same. Also, old coins marked * 20 ' 
(i.e. 20 soldi)=40 centimes; marked '10'=20 cts. 5 of the former, 
10 of the latter=2 francs. 

North Italy, The same. Also the lira, corresponding to the 
franc ; and centesimi, corresponding to centimes. Also, the zwan- 
ziger = 84 centesimi = ^d. 

Venetia, Tyrol^ Austria. 1 Florin =100 soldi = 3 zwanz. = 2^. 

Central Italy. 1 scudo, or 10 pauls=4s. ^d, (say, a French 5 fr.- 
piece) ; 1 paul, or 8 crazie=:5|^c?. (say ^ fr. French). scudi=£l. 

Hie Rhine, etc. Through Holland, 1 guilder, gulden, or florin 
= 100 cents = Is. Sd. (2 French francs) ; 5 cents = 1 stiver = Id. 

From Cologne to Mayence (Prussia), 1 thaler = 30 silbergro- 
schen = 3s. ; 1 silbergroschen = 12 pfennings = Id, 

From Mayence to Switzerland (Germany), 1 florin or gulden 
= 60 kreutzers = Is. 8c?. (say 2 French francs) ; 3 kreutzers — Id, 

For greater accuracy, however, the Tables opposite are calculated. 

English sovereigns pass almost everywhere at 25 francs : but 

Circular iiotes, payable at all the large Continental towns, are 
the safest media for carrying funds. — The ' London and Westmin- 
ster Bank ' issues these. 

Some preliminary supply of foreign money should be got in 
London, for convenience on landing abroad. This may be most ad- 
vantageously done at the City Exchange Office and Foreign Banh- 
iyig 'house of Adam Spielmann and Co., 79 Lombard St., e. c. The 
circular notes of £5 issued by this house are very convenient. 



xviii 



GJSNERAL INFORMATION. 



Expenses of travelling depend on individual habits, wants, and 
speed. Ordinarily, however, frequenting the best hotels, proceed 
ing sometimes by private voiture or post, now and then resting, 
£1 per diem ought to cover all ; walking, and dispensing with 
guides, 10 fi-s. per diem — less, if condescending to humbler inns. 

4. General Information, Requirements, and Advice. 

Time for tours. For France, Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, 
Germany, Switzerland, Savoy, Piedmont, North Italy, — June to 
October, inclusive. 

For South France, South Piedmont, Italy, — October to May, 
inclusive. 

Special for Switzerfand and the Alps. — October is supereminently best month 
(' experto crede'). A few wet days towards the end of September are usually suc- 
ceeded by a lease of glorious weather, fresh genial temperature, appetising strength- 
ening air for Avalkin<^ in, days long enough for rational distances, autumnal Tints 
superb, sunrises and sunsets incomparable, fewer tourists, ampler accommodation 
and attention, and lower prices. An infatuation possesses the World which runs 
home with the last clouds of September. 

Luggo.ge. As little as possible, and as compact. On most rails-* 
every lb. is charged. On all, it is separately booked, its safety 
guaranteed, and re-delivered only on production of the ticket at its 
destination. 

Luggage may be depose (left) at almost all railway-stations, for 
10 cts. (1^/.) per day, or 5 cts. each parcel if more than one — an 
immense convenience for those who stop a few hours only, to see 
what may be quickly seen, and then resume their route. 

On the French rails, 60 lbs. are free. On the Swiss diligences, 
40 lbs. 

Where great expedition is not material, the overplus of luggage 
may be transmitted at a very low rate by ' train commerce.' 

Swiss post -bureaux convey luggage reasonably and expeditiously. 
A receipt will be given for 10 cts. = \d. 

Mere porterage of luggage is always better left to the land- 
lord of one's hotel, agent of steamer, &c., to settle. 

To or from London, the main portion of luggage should be 
registered as far as possible, and only what is inmiediately ne- 
cessary be personally retained {e, g. in carpet-bag). 

Luggage declared ' en transit ' at any port or frontier will not 
be examined, but forwarded to whatever place at or beyond the 
next frontier the traveller may direct. 

Registered luggage cannot be reclaimed, nor is it examined by 
the Customs, before its^arrival at the point to which registered. 

Through-tickets are the cheapest ; but ascertain that they permit 
sufficient stoppages on the way. 

Excursion and Return-tickets are the strait-waistcoat of the 
Tourist; they destroy all liberty of varying the line of ^the tour 
as occasion may advantageously suggest. 



tourists' requirements. 



xix 



Sea-Sichtess. As a general rule, make an ordinary good meal 
within an hour previous to embarking. Lie quietly down before 
the vessel moves. Afterwards, if necessary take 10 drops of 
chloroform in a glass of water : if necessary, repeat them. 

Landing at a Foreign Fort, Travellers pass straight to the 
'douane,' to exhibit passports and open luggage. The official- 
are usually most courteous. 

At the Passport-office, a long wait for the recovery of the Pass- 
port may be saved, by writing the surname on a slip of paper and 
handing it (with of course your best grace) to the official. 

Arriving at Ihwns, 1. Have previously determined on your 
Hotel, and go to it in spite of any representation. 

2. If beset by touters, name your Hotel, — and its ' Commissio- 
naire ' will at once take delighted charge of yourself and luggage. 

3, Cabs and omnibuses (generally belonging to each hotel) 

attend all arrivals. 

Insurance on Life and against Accidents — The increasingly vast nnmbers 
of Tourists of all classes from the great extension of Continental Rails recom- 
mend this measure strongly. A very slight expenditure before starting v/ould, 
in many cases coming under the Editor's own notice, have proved a most im- 
portant boon. 

' Some advertisements on this head, explanatory of details, may be found 
added to the " Guide " for these reasons. 

Foreign Imports into England. 
Everything is admitted duty-free except 

d. 



Books, printed since 1801, the cwt. 30 

under International Copyright 

the cwt. 15 — 
Cigars, tobacco, (3 lbs. only allow- 
ed for private use) — 5 per cent. 

and the lb. 9 — 

Eau de Cologne* the long flask — 5 
— — - in other bottles the gallon 12 — 
Gloves, leather, the dozen pair 2 3 
Liqueurs , . , . the gallon 12 — 



Paper-hangings . . . the cwt. 14 ... 
Perfumery, in "wliich there is 

s])irits the gallon 12 ... 

Plate, gold . . . the oz. troy 17 — 

silver . . . ditto 1 6 

Prints, drawings . . . the lb. — 3 
Spirits,* in bottle or cask (cask 

must contain 21 gall.) the gallon 8 6 
W^ine, in bottle, or cask (21 gall.) 

the gallon 3 — 



• Under half-a-pint allowed for private use. 
All packages are examined by the Customs to ascertain if they contain any of 
these articles. 

M'Crackens, 7 Old Jewry, London, take entire management of 
all packages to and from the Continent, — see Advertisement. 
Special Requirements for Tourists. 
A Fortahle Fhotographic Apparatus cannot be overrated as 
an adjunct to the pleasure and usefulness of a tour. Special 
attention has been urged to this point in the ' Athenaeum.' 

Glacier- Nails, admirable, for screwing in and out of ordinary 
soles, are made by Lund, 23 and 24 Fleet St., next the Temple. 
For Sportsmen, 

Fishing and Shooting are readily obtainable everywhere abroad. 
English manufactures are incomparably the best, of 

Fishing-tackle.* | Fowling-piece. 

* C. Farlow, 191 Strand, is particularly recommended from his thorough knowledge 
of the Foreign Lakes and Rivers. - 



XX 



tourists' requirements. 



General Requirements for all Tourists. 

The foot-notes may facilitate the obtaining of the greater number 
at the one recommendable place. All are best got in England. 

The Houses indicated have been personally proved to be emi- 
nently satisfactory. — Otherwise, their notice would not be admitted 
here. 



Portmanteau, not to exceed 27 X 15 X 13 

inches for the French Mails. (1) 
Carpet-bag-. (1) 

Three or four Straps— for cloaks, books, 

umbrellas, &c. (1) 
Macintosh. (2) 
Goloshes — indispensable (2) 
An air-cushion (rises into luxury). (2) 
Leuthold's New Map of Switzerland— un- 

q[uestionably the best. (3) 



Metal-eyed parchment Labels. (3) 

Soap— purchaseable everywhere. (4) 

Scent-bottle. 

Small Church-Service. 

Powerful double Opera-g-lass. (6) 

Leathern Pouch for slinging over the 
slioulder— of the utmost convenience 
to eitiier sex. for Money, Passport, 
Handbook, llailway-ticket. (7) 

Bottle of arnica, ^ oz , to stop cuts. 



And a strong large Purse (and plenty to supply it). 



5. Pedestrians. 

Entire outfit, limited to common comfort — comprising what is 
to be worn, as well as borne — in addition to the foregoing 
' General Kequirements.' 



Needles, thread: ball of string: tape- 
measure : pins : court-plaster. 

Flask with drinking-cup. (5) 

Pocket-compass. (6) 

Thermometer. (6) 

Penknife, scissors. (7) 

Petite toilette materials. (7) 

Extra-coat, for changes of temperature— 
to be water-proof. (2) (8) 

Knapsack, medium size. (2) (8) 

2 flannel day-shirts. (9) 

1 linen shirt, a luxury for night. (9) 

3 collars. (9) 

3 pr. socks, thick lamb's wool soles. (9) " 

2 silk neck-cloths, single. (9) 



3 pocket-handkerchiefs. 
2 pr. gloves. 

1 complete suit — short frock, and trowsers 

to strap round the waist— o/ flannel ; 

really the coolest and safest material. 

English Cricketer's costume. 
I pr. short boots, strong but not heavy, 

easy, with nails, not iron-heels. 
1 pr. ditto, pliable polished leather. 

1 pr. soft slippers. 

2 oz. powdered camphor, in muslin bag.* 
A 'wide-awake' — to indicate character, 

shade the face, or catch the wet. 
Alpenstock with round ball on top — 
everywhere in Switzerland, 2 frs. 



A light iron-spiked English umbrella is useful, for sunshine, 
heavy rain, or ordinary walking ; when not required, strap it on 
top of the knapsack. 

(1) Last, .38 ITaymarket. Square-mouthed bag, capital. 

(2) Matthews and Son, late Macintosh, 58 Charing Cross, next door to the Phoenix 
Fire-oflice. 

(3) Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand. 

(4) Some case necessary— of leather, gutta-percha, or metaL 

(5) To be slung over the shoulder. 

(()) Blaiul and Co., Opticians to the Queen, 153 Fleet Street. 

(7) These should be as light as possible. 

(8) Edmiston, 5 (sharing Cross, late 09 Strand. Pocket Siphonia, 40s., most useful. 

(9) lirie, 43 Conduit Street, Prize-^NIedallists. 

♦ Ciii bono? asks a gentle Tourist. To ensure a solitary night'8 rest. Dust 
well between the sheets with it, when doubtful. 



HOTELS, AUBERGES, PENSIONS. 



Locomotion. By banquette of diligence on the level or less in- 
teresting roads, always : by one-horse voiture wherever possible, 
in the middle of the day : on foot, in the morning and evening 
—from 5 to 10 a.m., from 5 to 7 p.m., are the best hours — and 
an even pace, and never rapid. 

After heavy rains, the paths are so broken up that a horse is a 
necessity, and an economy. 

On arriving for the nighty administer immediately a brisk ' dry- 
rub ' and a fresh flannel shirt. 

Tender feet and Ulsters may be obviated or cured, by rubbing 
with brandy and tallow -candle, morning and night. 

6. Hotels, Auberges, Pensions 

abound, in every large, and in most small places : quite as good 
in the latter as in the former : frequently better. 

* They stand as thick as leaves in Vallombrosa.' 

Even in out-of-the-way districts, every two hours on an average 
some sort of resting-place may be counted on. 

The ' Practical Guide ' therefore can neither burthen its pages, 
nor confuse its Patrons, with a comparatively useless host of 
names ; it seems sufficient to indicate the more recommendable 
houses ; if fi^rther accommodation be required it is best to let their 
landlords forward the ' anxious inquirer ' to the next reliable one. 

Where the mere term Hotel occurs, or the mere name^ without 
particulars, it may be inferred that the intimation of such a house's 
existence seems desirable, but that nothing further can be pro- 
nounced upon. 

Hotels also change their character, directors, etc., for better or 
worse from time to time : therefore, though ' the Practical ' regards 
the latest phase, sometimes a later still may supervene. 

Ordinary Trices, 

IN FRANCE, BELGIUM, THE RHINE, SWITZERLAND. 

First-class Hotels — breakfast or tea (bread, butter, honey, tea or 
coffee), in the salle-a-manger, 1^ fr. ; in private, 2 fr.; — meat or 
eggs, \ fr. more ; — table d'hote, without wine, mid-day, 3 fr.; even- 
ing, 4 fr.;— bed, from 2 fr.; — service, 1 fr. per day; — candle for 
bed-room, 1 fr. — Extras : wine, candles^ private sitting-rooms, &c. : 
but these are optional. 

8eco7ichclass Hotels or Auherges are sometimes very good, and 
only such are indicated in this 'Guide' — breakfast or tea, 1 fr.; 
table d'hote, 2 to 2| fr. ; — bed, from 1 fr. to fr.;— service, 'as 
you like it,' say ^ fr. ; — candle, nil. 



xxii 



HOTELS — CONVEYANCES. 



It is onh/ Just to Landlords to notice, that provisions, &c., have 
nearly doubled in cost lately : if sometimes an unexpected item, 
therefore, appear in the bill, there may be fair cause for it. 

Fensions^ or ' boarding houses,' receive travellers at reduced rates 
— from 4 to 8 fr. ordinarily per day. There should be a distinct 
agreement, embodying extras, from the first. 

Economists can always order dinner, &c., at whatever specific sum 
they please. 

It is wise to discharge the bill every two or three days ; and, if 
leaving early in the morning, to obtain it over -night, though not 
to discharge it till departing. ( Just add it up for yourself.) 

In the height of the season late arrivers should secure beds by 
Telegraphic dispatch from the Post-bureaux, 1 fr. 

IN HOLLAND, SAVOY, PIEDMONT, ITALY, 

hotels are dearer one-third, and a bargain is commonly made. 
7. Public Conveyances. 

Railway-carriages, 2nd Class, generally equal English 1st. 

Steamers navigate nearly every lake and river. 

Cabs and Omnibuses show usually the fares inside. 

Postes or Diligences., morning and evening, carry passengers 
wherever no rail exists. 

Diligences possess three compartments — Coupe in front, 3 seats, 
good for the view onwards ; Interieur at its back, 6 seats, useless for 
all scenery ; Banquette or cabriolet above, 1 or 2 seats, a prospect 
on all sides. Prices — banquette and interieur, 65 c. per league ; 
coupe, 80 c. On the Passes, the former are 1 fr. ; the latter 1 fr, 
15 c. The fares given in this ' Guide ' are those of the banquette 
and interieur. Rate of progress — 6 mis. per hour. 

The sittings are numbered; 1, 2, are corners of the coupe, — 4, 
5, corners of the interieur, facing the route. No time should be 
lost in engaging those desired ; but if previously filled, a little 
gentle persuasion with the conducteur (guard), which a couple of 
francs may represent, will often effect a change. 

IN SWITZERLAND. 

Conveyance is ensured by ' booking ' at any post-bureau one hour 
before the diligence. If the diligence be full, a ' supplement ' must 
legally be given, without any extra-fare. 

IN HOLLAND. 

Trekschuit, a ' dragged boat ' {scilicet by a horse), forms the na- 
tional conveyance for the lower classes. Try a stage for curiosity. 



POSTING AND DISTANCES. 



XXIII 



8. Posting and Distances. 

A bill, of distance, time, and charge, and preventing disputes, is 
delivered to the hirer at all Post-bureaux. 

Post-carriages, except along the Rhine and in Switzerland, are poor. 

Ati English Private carriage pays duty ^rd of its value (from 
600 to 1000 frs.) on entering France : f ths of this is returned on 
its leaving France within 3 years, duty if leaving within 6 
days : but a Hotel-keeper or some one else must go security. 

IN FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, SAVOY, PIEDMONT, 

one rarely now thinks of posting, on account of the railways. 

1 Post =^ 8 kilometres = nearly 5 English miles. 

1 kilometre = 4 furlongs, 213 yards, ^. e, rather more than \ mile 
English. 

10 kil. = 1 myriametre = nearly Q\ mis. English. 

Per horse, per kilometre, 20 cts. 

Extra, over the Simplon, Cenis, and Tenda, 10 c. 

Carriage, per kilometre, 20 c. Postilion, 10 c. — he expects double. 
— Altogether, about ^\d. a-mile. 

Each person over the corresponding number of horses adds 15 c. 
per kilometre. 

ALONG THE RHINE. 
1 Post = 2 German miles = 9 English miles. 

In Prussia. — Per horse, 25 silbergr. Carriage, from 15 sgr. up- 
wards. Postilion (for 2 horses) 10 sgr., he expects 20. — Altogether, 
about 8r/. a-mile. 

In Germany — Per horse, 1 florin 45 kr. Carriage, from 45 kr. 
upwards. Postilion (for 2 horses) 40 kr., he expects 1 fi. — Alto- 
gether, about M. a-mile. 

IN SWITZERLAND. 



1 Post= 3 stiinden= 9 English miles. 



Post 








Driver's 


Trinkgeld. 




Post-carriage. 


h'er norsfi 






























1 or 2 horses 


3 horses 


4 or 6 horses 


1 or 2 horses 


3 horses 


4 or 6 horses 




Fr. Cts. 


Fr. Cts. 


Fr. Cts. 


Fr. 


Cts. 


Fr. Cts. 


Fr. Cts. 


Fr. 


Cts. 






65 




20 




25 




30 




30 




40 




50 


i 


1 


25 




40 




50 




60 




50 




80 


i 






1 


90 




55 




75 




95 




80 


1 


20 


1 


50 


1 


2 


50 




75 


1 






25 


1 




1 


50 


2 




5 
S 


3 


15 




90 


1 


25 




55 


1 


30 


1 


90 


2 


50 


i 


3 


75 


1 


15 


1 


50 




85 


1 


50 


2 


30 


3 




i 


4 


40 


1 


35 


1 


75 


2 


20 


1 


80 


2 


70 


3 


50 


1 


5 




1 


50 


2 




2 


50 


2 




3 




4 





On high-roads, the stunde is 3 miles English. Posting obtains 
on all. Postmasters must furnish horses at an hour's notice. The 



POSTING AND DISTANCES. 



* Post ' sometimes falls short of (and sometimes exceeds) the 3 
stunden. The driver expects one-third more. The rate of progress 
is the same as the diligence's, 6 mis. per hour. One or two 
travellers can thus proceed at the rate of— 1 horse, 5 fr. ; driver, 
(say) 2 fr. ; post- carriage, 2 fr. ; = 9 fr. for 9 miles English. 

By hiring or buying one's own carriage for the time, and hiring 
post-horses only as above, a tour may be accomplished agreeably 
and inexpensively. The number of horses legally required for the 
proposed carriage should first be investigated. 

On mountain^ mule, and foot paths^ the stunde is literally ^an 
hour's' walking (of a horse), 2^ mis. up or down. A pedestrian can 
flJescend, but not rfscend, more rapidly. 

IN NORTH ITALY. 
1 Post = 8 Lombard miles = about 9 English miles. 

Per horse, 3 zwanziger, 60 cti. Carriage, 1 zw. 80 cti. Postilion, 
1 zw. — he expects double. Ostler, 30 cti. — Altogether, about Id, 
a-mile. 

IN TTROL, 

1 Post = 2 Gennan miles = 9 English miles. 

Per horse, 1 fl. 24 kr. miinz. Carriage, 42 kr. miinz. Postilion, 
(2 horses), 1 fl. miinz. — Altogether, about Sd. a-mile. 

9. Voitures and Horses 

offer, at every important place, for short or long periods of hire. 
The same horse, or pair, does the whole day's work — about 30 
Engl. mis. — resting some hours in the middle of it. The animals 
lead a wretched life — forbear, O noble Traveller ! to lay the last 
. straw on the dumb victim. The modern driver is like the old 

* Gra3culus esuriens ' and 

' in coelum, si jusseris, ibit.' 

A respectable landlord ought always to be consulted, in private, 
before a voiturier is engaged ; and should also fill up the usual 
printed agreement, specifying price, extras, distance, stops, exclusion 
of strangers, and limitation of the engagement to the satisfaction of 
the employer. The wisest term is from day to day. 

ALONG THE RHINE. 

Lolmhutscher, 'coachmen for hire:' with 2 horses, o\ to 6 J 
thalers = 10 to 12 flor. = 20 to 24frs., per day; driver, 20 sgr. = 
1 flor. 12 kreutz. = 2| fr. JSJo back-fare on highways. 

IN SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, PIEDMONT. 

Voifnre — with 1 horse (2 persons), 12 fr. per day; with 2 horses 
(4 persons in, and 1 out), 20 fr.; 1 fr. per horse trinkgeld, to the 



VOITURES AND HORSES. 



XXV 



driver. When stopping in towns, the payment is reduced to 9 fr. 
daily for driver and 2 horses. If discharged at a distance fvo^n the 
place of hiring, hack-fare must be paid, estimating each day of re- 
turn at 12 stunden (36 mis.) and half trinkgeld. A little prevision 
can arrange for the discharge not far from the original locality. 

Horses, for mountains, 11 fr. a-day; attendant,! fr. The 
various local tarifs appear severally at their proper places in this 
* Practical Guide.' No mountains should be ridden down. 

Bach-fares may be diminished by obtaining other hirers back : 
return-fares may be reckoned at two-thirds of the original. 



IN ITALY. 

Vettura, a carriage-and-pair, seating four inside and one out, 
may be had for from 40 to 50 lire or francs per day; vetturino 
('driver'), 4 fr. The latter will also undertake, if wished, the 
whole expense of each passenger, locomotion, board, and lodging, 
for about 1 napoleon (I65.) daily: this arrangement has ceased to 
be recommendable. 

Calessa, a light vehicle for a couple of tourists, about 70 cen- 
tesimi {Id,) per horse, 20 cti. (2d) driver — altogether, 90 eti. (8|c?.) 
a-mile. 

Besides the written contract, it is here indispensable to take a 
piece of money (' cajparra, or ' earnest,') from the owner. 



10. Porte-chaises and Guides. 

IN SWITZERLAND. 

Porte-chaise^ or chaise-a-porteiirs — a sort of half-grown sedan — 
forms the easiest vehicle for mountain ascents and descents. 3 men 
generally relieve each other. Local tarifs, as given in this • Prac- 
tical Guide,' fix the prices : the computation is 6 fr. each carrier, 
per day : ^ fr. each is added, as trinkgeld. 

Guides, 6 t'r. per day (7, 8, 9, in the height of the season) ; and 
return-fare, unless the original agreement exclude it (which it com- 
monly does). ]None should be taken without the recommendation 
of a landlord. Each is bound to carry 25 lbs. of luggage, if re- 
quired. Under all circumstances, their preference of Hotels, 
Routes, etc., must be received with caution, for obvious reasons. 

Guides are essential where pointed out in the following pages : 
with which reservation, 

Guides are needless — 1st, With this book: if there be any mis- 
giving, add Leuthold of Ziirich's new Map. 

2ndly, On the ordinary Passes, trodden by so many others. 



xxvi 



PORTE-CHAISES AND GUIDES. 



These two cases suppose the absence of baggage. 

3rdly, Where the baggage can be borne by a hoy, who may 
everywhere be got, at less than half the cost. 

4thly, Where porte-chaises or horses are taken : for their at- 
tendants are virtual guides. 

11. Books illustrative of localities. 

Some previous reading would sharpen the observation, and en- 
hance the pleasure, of the traveller. The portability of the works 
whose lowest-priced editions are quoted, may also suggest a 
* book for a rainy day.' 

GENERAL. 

Laing's 'ISTotes of a Traveller' on France, Belgium, Holland, 
Prussia, Switzerland, and Italy (Longmans, 25. 6d.) — is very 
suggestive, politically, socially, and religiously, with a strong 
' liberal ' idiosyncrasy. 

Bell's ' Wayside Pictures/ France^ Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, 
(Routledge,) is a capital light book. 

Tupper's ' Paterfamilias' s Diary of Everybody's Tour ' (5s.) 

FOR FRANCE. 

Sir F. B. Head's ' Faggot of French Sticks.' 

FOR BELGIUM. 

( Waterloo.) ' Childe Harold,' canto iii. (Murray.) 
{Liege.) Sir W. Scott's ' Quentin Durward.' 

FOR THE RHINE. 

Mayhew's * Upper and Lower Rhine,' (Routledge,) magnificently 
illustrated, is the first and best work on the subject. 

Chambers's Repository of Tracts — No. 5. The Rhine (Id.) is full 
of information. 

' Childe Harold,' canto iii. (Murray.) 

Sir Buhver Lytton's 'Pilgrims of the Rhine' (Routledge, Is,) 
gives the mind a good Rhine-tone. 

FOR THE GERMAN SPAS. 

Sir F. B. Head's * Bubbles from the Brunnen of Nassau.' 

FOR SWITZERLAND. 

Byron's 'Manfred;' 'Childe Harold,' canto iii; 'Prisoner of 
Cliillon.' 

Professor Forbes' ' Travels in the Alps ' (Murray) — scientific. 
{3£L Blanc.) Hudson & Kennedy's * Ascent ' (Longmans, 5s. 6(7.) 
' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' by Members of the Alpine Club, 
(Longmans, £1 is,) 



BOOKS. 



xxvii 



Zschokke's ' Histoire de la Suisse' in French^ (Williams and 
lN"orgate, 35.)— simple, clear, and small. 

Gotthilf s works, in German or French^ (ditto) — characteristic 
of Sv/iss domestic life. 

{Lucerne.) Schiller's * Wilhelm Tell ' m German, (ditto. Is.) 

FOR NORTH ITALY. 

Manzoni's 'Promessi Sposi,' in Italian. (Williams and Korgate, 
35. Qd.) 

* Childe Harold,' canto iv. 

(^Verona.) Shakspeare's 'Romeo and Juliet.' 

( Venice.) Shakspeare's ' Merchant of Venice.' 

Ruskin's * Stones of Venice,' * Modern Painters,' ' Seven Lamps.' 

FOREIGN BOOKS 

can always be got at Williams and Norgate's, 14, Henrietta St., 
Co vent Garden, at the original prices, free of any extra charge. 

12. Objects of special note.^ 

IN HOLLAND. 

Eor ampler details, see ' Practical Rhine Guide.' 

1. Dyhes — by which the whole country has been reclaimed, 
and is preserved, at a cost of £600,000 a-year, from the sea ; its 
cities being literally based on wooden piles : the tide being some- 
times from 20 to 30 ft. above the level of the land. The watch- 
ing and anxiety of the winter are quite tremendous, and the 
recorded inundations innumerable and awful. 

2. Canals — used as Roads. 

3. The Butch School of Painting — a life-like representation of 
Jiard fact — men, houses, beasts, birds, flowers, earth, and water. 
Chief-masters — Rembrandt, Teniers, Gerard Dow, Wouvermans, 
Paul Potter, Berghem, Vandervelde, Cuyp, Jan Steen, Ruysdael, 
Weenix, &c. 

4. The Storh (Dutch, Ooyevaar) — the national bird, a summer 
visitor, whose domestic tendencies (in everything except an 
autumnal V flitting to the south, dear Tourist !) quite make it the 
Family Model-bird : so, the vrow fondles it, mynheer himself con- 
structs a nest for it on his house-top, and the law protects it. 

IN BELGIUM. 
For ampler details, see ' Practical Rhine Guide.* 

1. Gothic Architecture — applied to all kinds of buildings, of 
an order and profusion unequalled elsewhere in Europe. 

2. Flemish Schools of Painting : the early, 14th cent., rich in 
colour, stiff in treatment, but true, intelligent, and feeling — (the 

* The views of the London Stereoscopic Co., 54, Cheapside, absolutely reproduce 
Nature, and form living- souvenirs of the wanderer's way. 



XXVlll 



OBJECTS OF NOTE. 



brothers Van Eyck, Hans Hemling, and Matsys) : the later, 1 6th 
cent., bold in execution, even coarse and faulty, but full of mental 
power — (Kubens and Vandyck). 

ON THE RHINE. 

For ampler details, see * Practical Khine Guide.' 

Jlafts — of rough pines from the Swiss and German forests, for 
exportation to England, &c. — each ' a floating village ; ' some con- 
taining a dozen houses, 500 men, women, and children, with 
cows, pigs, cats, dogs, &c. Width, 250 feet to pass the gorge ; 
length, ad libitum ; consumption of bread 30,000 lbs., meat 150,000 
lbs., &c. ; average value, £20,000. 

The Bilsseldorf School of Painting — an admirable living render- 
ing of the old Dutch School under the modern light and feelings 
of a softer humanity. 

IN THE ALPS. 

1. The Avalanche — 'the thunderbolt of snow' — 'the W'hisper 
of God ' — Germ. Laivine — a mass of ice of many thousand tons, 
disengaged by the heat of the sun, &c., and rolling down many 
thousand feet, seen principally in the height of the summer, about 
and after noon-time. JSTo description can convey the grace of the 
fall, or the grandeur of the echoes — 

' Bounding-, bursting-, burying- all.' 

2. Glacier — Germ, gletscher : Tyrolese, ferner — an immense ac- 
cumulation of ice in the mountain -hollows. Its weight and melt- 
ing, the heat evolved by expansion in daily thawing and nightly 
freezing, friction, and the w^armth of the earth at bottom, move it 
continually forward, see p. 94, 107, 108, 117, 133, 141, 154, 162, 
163, at a. rate (determined by the inclination at Avhich it lies) from 
250 to 500 feet yearly. Lines of riven stone along its edges form 
the moraines; and deep and dangerous fissures across, the crevasses. 

Nave is snow at a height which neither melts nor freezes. 

3. Alpengliihen, 'Alpine glow' — French, rougedtre — the rose- 
hueing of the white, glacier-topped mountains by the rising and 
setting sun — 

• And sunset into rose-hues sees them wrought.'— Byron. ^ 

4. Red snow — so called, and very rare — simply ^'a colouring from 
fungus. 

5. Animals — chamois (wild goat), lammergeier (vulture, the next 
largest knov;n bird of prey after the American condor), marmot 
(a mixture of the rabbit and squirrel race), glacier-flea (doubtful) 
— all residents above the snow-line. 

Line of perpetual snow in the Alps, 8000 ft. (Humboldt.) 
0. City Fountains — Historical and Imaginative evidences. 

7. Road-side Crosses — Religious evidences. 

8. Cr/'tins — idiots and deformed, with a terrific tumour ('goitre') 
at the throat : abundant in the valleys, and victims apparently 



THE SWISS PEOPLE. 



xxix 



of low exhalations, none appearing beyond a height of 3000 ft, 
above the sea — the predisposing causes, however, possibly being 
unventilated hovels, uncleanness, and unwholesome food. — They 
are popularly esteemed favourites of Heaven, their title's deriv- 
ation being ' Chretiens as though they were this (Christians) 
'par excellence : ' whom the Lord loveth, He chasteneth.' 



13. The Swiss People 

Nationally — ' are the Dutch of the mountains : the same cold, 
unimaginative, money-seeking, yet vigorous, determined, energetic 
people.' — Laing. 

Politically, 22 cantons — Pop. 2,389,594, see next page — con- , 
stitute the Confederation or Republic : of which — 1st, the Fe- 
deral Council holds the highest authority, consisting of 7 members 
elected for 3 years from — 2ndly, the Federal Assembly, which is 
composed of the ITational Council (1 representative for each 20,000 
inhabitants) and the Council of States (2 representatives from each 
canton). The representatives are voted for by every lay citizen of 
20 years old. — The Army comprises 64,000. The whole male pop. 
is trained to military service. — The land is parcelled out amongst 
the masses, who thus form a small landed proprietary.- — Education 
is enforced by law, — There is a ' free press,' and ' religious liberty,' 
except for the Jesuits, who have been expelled since the Sonder- 
bund emeute in 1848. 

Socially, The aristocracy is merely a question of means. The 
utmost class-exclusiveness characterises each circle. The wife de- 
cides Caudle's rank in the higher grades — and, in the lower, though 
a field-worker herself, is the manager : * the hen is the better bird 
all over Switzerland:' her name is superadded to the husband's. 
The popular amusements are — 1. Rifle-practice : the targets are 
maintained by the government, and a general ^Tir Federal' is 
held every two years. — 2. Schwingfeste, ' wrestling-matches,' which 
foster dissipation and breed ill-feeling among the contending cantons. 

Pastorally, Every inhabitant is entitled to a cow's grazing on 
the Alp (i. e. ' common pasture ') of his parish. A cow is worth <£20 : 
its average of milk for the day, 301bs. : its average of cheese for 
the season, 2 cwt. There are 1,000,000 cows. They move up as 
the summer advances, and down as it declines. 3 caretakers are 
attached to every 40 cows ; to whose lodging alone the term chalet 
(i. e. ' cow-house ') belongs ; they milk and make cheese for all ; 
and the proceeds are equally divided. Each canton has its own 
Ranz de Yaches, rude musical calls for the herds — Germ. Kuh- 
reihen (' rows of cov/s,' because they come in that order when so 
called for). The winter is spent in wood-carving and jollity. 

c 2 



XXX 



SWISS HISTORY. 



Ilistoricalhf. The Rhoetians and Helvetians were the primitive 
possessors. The Romans conquered both in the 1st cent., p. 53, 54, 
128, 129, 131, 134, 135, 143, 154, 157. The northern hordes of the 
4th cent, overran the whole. The empire of Charlemagne suc- 
ceeded. Then, a division ensued, p. 132 — East S\vitzerland fell to 
Suabia, West to Burgundy. 

In the Eastern division — Oppression led to a protective con- 
nection with the petty house of Habsburg, p. 129, the head of which, 
Rodolph, eventually reached the Imperial Throne. His son Al- 
bert, greedy of extended sway, introduced Austrian Bailiffs, with 
instructions to break the spirit of the Swiss. Against their tyranny 
rose Tell, p. 93, and the Three men of Griitii, p. 91, with the Three 
Forest Cantons, and expelled them. The Austrians were success- 
ively defeated by the Swiss at Morgarten, p. 79, Sempach, p. 81, 
Nafels, p. 70, and Stoss, p. 62. 

In the Western division — Similar attempts to subject Berne, 
&c., led to the Burgundians' defeat at Laupen, p. 130, Grandson, 
p. 132, Morat, p. 130, St. Jacob and Dornach, p. 53. 

The independence of Switzerland was then recognised, a. d. 
1648 ; and its decay commenced. The spoils of its foes proved its 
own enervators. The lust of gain urged the Switzers to foreign 
military enrolment in w^hatever cause paid best — and the returning 
mercenaries still more biassed the national mind. Civil discord 
broke out with the Reformation, p. 67, 80, and continued till the 
French Republic annexed the w^hole, in 1798, the only resistance 
made being at Rothenthurm and Stansstad, p. 79, 90. 

On Napoleon Ts fall, the Congress of Vienna decreed the exist- 
ing Confederation in 1815. 

The religious anomalies of the various cantonal institutions occa- 
sioned the emeiife of the Sonderbund (i. e. ' without confederation') 
in 1848 — the Romish cantons desiring to be ^^confederated, from 
the measures forced on them by the Prot. cantons. The attempt 
failed — not without bloodshed ; and the present general constitu- 
tion was established, as given above, under the head FoUucuily. 



THE SWISS CANTONS. 



Population. Prot. R. Cath. Jews. 

Zurich 2-^3,928 G,690 80 

Berne 403,709 54,0-14 488 

Lucerne ],563 131,280 ; — 

Uri 12 14,493 ' — 

Sch\vytz 155 44,013 — 

Unter^Yalden ... 28 2"),110 — 

Glarus 2G,281 3,1*32 — 

Zup: 125 17,33G — 

Pribourg^ 12,133 87,753 5 

Soleure 8,097 61,r;,-,G 21 

Basle 62,901 14,500 122 

Total5-l,417,974 Prot. : 970,840 R. 



Population. Prot. R. Cath. Jews. 
Scnaffhausen ... 33,880 1,411 9 



Appenzell 42,7 S8 12,105 — 

St. Gallen 64,192 105,370 C3 

Grisons 51,855 38,039 1 

Aar^-au 107,194 91,096 1562 

Tlmrj^au 66,984 20,921 3. 

Tessin 50 117,707 2 

Vaud 192,225 6,9G2 388 

Valais 430 81,128 1 

Neuchatel 64,952 5,570 231 

Geneva 34,212 29,764 170 



Cath.: 3146 Jews. Sum, 2,391,730. 



SKELETON-EOTJTES BY J^RANCE. 



xxxi 



14. Skeleton-Routes, 

incorporating all that is of note, right and left ; allowing fair but 
strict time for sight-seeing ; and excluding night-travelling (the in- 
troduction of which vvould diminish the time of the tour one-half). 

General Note. Diligences run twice daily on most roads — there- 
fore where voiture (carriage) is specified, it is because convenience 
or the scenery commends this in preference : where diligence, a dil. 
' will do : ' where drive, it does not matter which : where road, it 
may as well be walked as ridden : where horse, of course ' Shanks' 
mare ' may be substituted : where past., the place is not meant to 
be stopped at. 

Prom London to Switzerland. 

For direct routes and shortest time, see page xxxix. 

Here, the tourist is supposed to pause, and even diverge, to 
visit places and objects of real interest. 

There are two great routes : 1. by Paris : 2. by the Rhine. If both 
be taken, it is better to go by the Khine, and return by France. 

1. General E.oute by France. 
\st day. London to Paris, p. 5 — 9. 
From Paris to Switzerland, the choice lies between 

A 

2nd day. Paris, p. 10, rail to Nancy, and see it, p. 11. 

3. Rail to Strasbourg, see Cathedral, p. 11 : rail on by Kehl to 
Freiburg, and see it, p. 12, 45. 

4. Dil. through the Hollenthal, p. 49, to the Falls of the Rhine 
(or rail by Basle to the Falls, p. 51, 53) — Sivitzerland, 

B 

2nd day. Paris, p. 9, rail to Dijon, and see it, p. 13 ; rail to 
Lyons, and see it, p. 15. 

3. Rail to Geneva, and see it, p. 15, 16, 137 — Switzerland, 

Better leave Switzerland by this route, reversed. The entry is more effective from 
the north, as above, under letter A. 

TO CONNECT PARIS WITH THE RHINE, 
in its most interesting- portions. 

D 



C 

2nd day. Paris, rail past ISTamur 
and Liege to Aix, and see it. 

3. Rail to Diisseldorf and Co- 
logne, see both : rail to Bonn. 

4. See Bonn : steam to Coblenz. 



2nd day. Paris, rail to IN'ancy 
(Frouard) and Metz. 

3. Rail to Treves. 

4. Steam down the Moselle to 
Coblenz. 

5 — 8. By the Rhine, or German Spas, to 
(see following General Route) 
Either the Falls of the Rhine or Rorschach — Switzerland, 



xxxii 



SKELETON-ROUTES — BY THE RHINE. 



2. General Route by the Bliiiie. 

Belgium, Holland, and the German Spas. 

1st day, London, rail to Dover, steam to Ostend, p. 26. 

(Belgium.) 

2. Eail to Bruges and Ghent, stopping a couple of hrs. at each, 
for the antiquities, etc., p. 27 : and on, for the view, to Liege, 
p. 28. 

3. Steam or rail to iSTamur, for the scener}-, p. 26 : rail to 
Brussels, and see it, p. 25. « 

4. Coach to Waterloo and hack, p. 25. 

5. Rail to Malines, stop an hr. for Yand^yck's ^ Crucifixion,' 
p. 27 : on to Antwerp, stop some hrs. for the antiquities, &c., 
p. 30 : and on to Botterdam, p. 31. 

(Holland.) 

6. Rotterdam, rail to the Hague, Ley den, Haarlem, stopping 
a couple of hrs. at each, p. 31, 32. 

7. Rail to Amsterdam : carriage one Avay, trekschuit the other, 
to Broek and back : voit. to Zaandam and back, p. 32, 33. 

8. Rail to Diisseldorf, and see its School of living Painters, 
p. 33 : rail to Aix-la-Chapelle, p. 29. 

(Belgium again.) 

9. See Aix : rail to Liege and back, for the scener}', p. 28, 29. 

10. Rail to Cologne, and see it : rail on to Bonn,/(;r the Rhine, 
p. 34—36. 

Omitting Holland, the proper order would be, instead of the foregoing — 
\st day. London to Ostend, as before. 

2. Bruges, Ghent, see both : rail to Antwerp, see partly. 

3. Antwerp, see remainder; rail to Brussels, and see it. 

4. Waterloo and back. 

5. Rail, by Malines or Namur, to Liege : and on to Aix. 

6. See Aix : rail to Cologne, and see it : rail on to Bonn, /o?* the Rhine. 
The next day, then, would be 7 instead of 

(The Rhine : with the German Spas.) ' , 

11. Bonn, rail to Godesberg and Rolandseck, p. 36: steam to 
Coblenz, p. 37 : steam and rail to Ems and back, p. 3S, 46. 

12. Steam to Bingen : rail to Kreutznach and back, p. 38, 39. 

13. Boat back to Asmannshausen, and horse through the 
N'iederwald, p. 39, to Schwalbach, p. 47 : carriage through 
Schlangenbad to AViesbaden, p. 47 : rail to Mayence, p. 40. 

14. Rail to Frankfort, see it, p. 41, 42 : on to Homburg and 
back, p. 48 : rail to Heidelberg, p. 43. 

Two routes from Heidelberg — both interesting. First — 

15. See Heidelberg : rail to Baden-Baden, p. 44. 

16. Excursions about Baden-Baden. 

17. Rail to Kehl, p. 45, 11, 12 : on to Strasbourg, for Cathedral, 
p. 11 : back to Kchl, rail on to Freiburg, and see it, p. 45. 

18 (or 14, if Holland have been omitted above). Dil. through 
the ILolhrntlud to the Falls of the Rhine — Switzerland. 



SKELETON-ROUTES IN SWITZERLAND. 



xxxiii 



Second route from Heidelberg-, see abo%'e — 

15. See Heidelberg, p. 43 : rail past Bruchsal to Stuttgart, and 
see it, p. 45, 46. 

16 (or 12, ^f Holland have been omitted above). Eail to Ulm, 
Friedrichshafen, p. 4G : steam to Rorschach, p. 60 — Sivitzerland. 



The entry into Switzerland is best made by Freiburg, the Hoi- 
lenthal, or Basle, and Rhine Falls — ^^for the scenery rises vfith the 
finest effect in this order. The Lakes of Ziirich and \Y allenstadt, 
and grand mountain-forms of Eagatz, follow — quite distinct from 
everything else. Further in this direction, the Yia Mala and 
Spliigen are extraordinary beyond all comparison. And the Swiss- 
Italian Lakes so quickly succeed and form both such splendid con- 
trasts and so convenient a circle to central Switzerland, that they 
should on no account be omitted. 

The centre of the tour threads naturally the Bernese Oberland. 

The close should range between Mont Blanc and the North of 
Italy — for this equally distinctive mountain -district completes with 
peculiar grandeur the general impression. 

The exit should be (from Geneva) by the Yal Moutier and Basle, 
or Lyons and Dijon. 

General Houte in Switzerland. 

FIRST SECTION. 

\st day-. From Falls of the Rhine, p. 50 : rail past Zurich to the 
Swiss Baden, for Geology and Fashion's sake, 3 hrs., and see it, 
p. 54. Rail on past Brugg to Schinznach, for Fashion and History's 
sake, \ hr., p. 128 : ascend to the Ruins of Habsburg : sleep at 
Schinznach. 

If the entry into Switzerland he made hy Basle instead of Freiburg-, the 1st day 
should be — Basle, p. 51 : rail to the Falls of the Ehine, p. 53, 54. Then 

2. Rail back to Ziirich, 2 hrs., see it in 2 hrs. more, p. 56. Rail 
to St. Gall, 4 hrs., p. 61, and sleep. 

3. Dil. to Appenzell, 2\ hrs.: drive to Weissbad, 2 mis. : ascend 
to the ' Wild-Church ' and back, 4 hrs., and sleep at Weissbad : 
p. 61, 62. 

4. Either, foot-path over the Kamor to Riithi, 5 \ Both, some- 
hrs. : rail to Ragatz, 1^ hr., and sleep : p. 62, 63, 64. f what similar 

— Or, voit, over the Stoss to Altstatten, 9 mis: C and equally 
and rail, IJ hr., to Ragatz : p. 62, 63, 64. ) fine. 

Omitting Appenzell, etc, — a heavy omission — the proper order would be, instead 
of the foregoing-, 

1st day. Falls of tlie E,hine as before, to Schinznach : and back to Zurich. 
2. Zurich : steam on Lake, and rail in connection, past Lake of Wallenstadt to 
Kagatz, p. 65, 67. 



xxxiv 



S K E L E T O N - R O U T E S — IX S Vv' I T Z E R L A N D . 



'Srd day then would be as follows — 

5. Ragatz, p. 68, char-rd. to ' the wonderful Baths of PfaiFers,' 
1 hr. : on to Eeichenau, eitJier by foot-path, 5 hrs., p. 69, or by 
voit., 4 hrs., p. 72, 73 : drive on to Tusis, 2 hrs., and sleep. 

6. Walk through Via Mala to Andeer, 3 hrs.: drive past Splii- 
gen, 2 J hrs., on to Pianazzo, 3 hrs.: walk to Chiavenna, a stupend- 
ous gorge and road, and glorious prospects, 4 hrs., p. 74, and 
sleep. 

rf stopping short here of Como ; — Rag-atz may well be returned to by the fine 
routes of either Silvaplana and the Albula Pass, 2 days, — or Sih'aplana and the 
Julier Pass, 2 days, — pages 75 76, — or Silvaplana, 3Iartinsbrack, the Arlbers? Pass, 
and Feldkirch (Tyrol), 3.^ days., p. 75, 7o, 64. Then, from Ragatz, see below, 11. 

7. Drive to Colico, 3 hrs., p. 75, 186 : steam to Como, 4 hrs., see 
its Cathedral, p. 187 : voit. to Lugano, 3| hrs., p. 97, and sleep. 

To visit Man from Como— (instead of Lugano) rail to Milan, l-J- hr., p. 98, 192- 
Next day, see Milan, rail back to Como, and voit. as above to Lugano. This would 
add only 1 day to the tour. 

From Milan to Venice, by rail, would add one day more. And 

Back from Venice or Milan to Lugano, without retracing to Como, there is 
another beautiful route (part of the Stelvio Pass) thus ; 

1st day. Rail to Monza, p. 98, or Bergamo, p. 196: dil. to Lecco : voit. along 
the Lake of Lecco to Varenna on Como, p. 186, and sleep. 
♦ 2. Row-boat to Bellagio, ^- hr. ; see it, 1 hr. ; on to i\renaggio, h hr., p. 186 : 

voit.-rd. to Porlezza and steam to Lugano, 2J hrs.: omn. to Luino — as~next, viz. 

8. Steam excursion on Lake Lugano, 2 hrs., p. 97 : omn. to 
Luino, 2j hrs. : steam on Lago Maggiore to the Borromean Isles, 
1 hr., and boat to Laveno, for the finest view on the Lake^ 1 hr., 
p. 188, and sleep. 

To visit Orta from Laveno — 9. Steam 'doirn Lago Maggiore to Baveno or 
Stresa, 1 hr., p. 189 : mule-rd. over the Monterone to Orta, 6 hrs., see it, p. 191, and 
sleep. 

To Varallo and back, from Orta — voit. to Varallo, 4 hrs,, see it in 1 hr. ; mule- 
rd. over the Colma to Pella, 4^ hrs., boat across to Orta, i hr., p. 191, 192. 

Return to General Route, from Orta — boat to Omegna; either omn. to Pal- 
lanza, 3^- hrs., or voit. to Baveno, 22hrs., p. 192 : steam from either, as from Laveno, 
viz. 

9. From Laveno, steam tip Lago Maggiore to Magadino, 3 hrs., 
p. 188 : omn. to Bellinzona, 2 hrs., p. 96, 97, and sleep. 

10. Drive over Bernhardin Pass to Spliigen, p. 75, down the 
Via Mala to Coire, rail \ hr. to Bagatz, 12 hrs., p. 73, and sleep. 

11. Rail along Lake Wallenstadt to AVesen, 1^ hr., rail to 
Utznach, J hr., (or on to Rapperschwy], ^ hr. more,) p. 68, 67, 
66 : voit. to Schwytz or Brunuen (a surprisingly beautiful scene 
in descending) on Lake of Lucerne, 6 hrs., p. 78, 79. 

To introduce Glarus and Stachelherg would add 1 day, viz. 

11. Ragatz to Wesen, 1;| hr., as before: rail to Glarus,*voit. to Stachelberg, 2^ 
hrs., p. 70 : back to Glarus, 2 hrs., and sleep. 

12. F/ither, from Glarus, \\ 70, rail by (Jtznach or Rapperschwyl, 1^ hr., p. 68, 
67, 6ij, v^hence drive, 6 hrs., p. 78, 79, — or horse path, 9 hrs., by Muotta-Thal, p. 
100,— to Schwytz or Brunnen on Lake of Lucerne, as before. 



SKELETON-ROUTES IN SWITZERLAND. XXXV 

Observations on First Section. Nowhere can such a superb and 
varied series of Alpine scenes and striking cities be equalled, in the 
same length of time. If all however cannot be taken, subjoined is 

The best curtailment of First Section, 



Retaining the Italian Lakes. 
\st day. Palls of the Rhine, Zurich, 
Rag-atz. 

2. Pfaffers, Via Mala, Andeer. 

3. Spliigen, Chiavenna. 

4. Lake of Como, Lugano. 

5. Luino, Lago Mag'giore, Bellinzona. 
6J St. Gotthard Pass to Fluelen on Lake 

of Lucerne. 



Omitting the Italian Lakes. 
\st day. Falls of the Bhine, Zurich, 
Rag-atz. 

2. Pfaffers, Via Mala, Spliigen. 

3. Bernhardin Pass to Bellinzona. 

4^ St. Gotthard Pass to Fluelen on Lake 
of Lucerne. 



SECOND SECTION 
in continuation of preceding-. 

\st day. (From Fluelen, to Brunnen, steam, ^ hr. — ) From 
Brunnen or Schwytz — voit. past Lake Lowertz to Arth, p, 99 : 
horse to Eigi Kulm, p. 87. 

2. Down to Weggis, p. 87, 90 : steam to Lucerne^ and see it, 
p. 82 : steam on the Lake to Fluelen, p. 90 : voit. to Andermatt, 
p. 94. 

3. Horse over Furca to Grimsel Hospice, p. 95. 

4. Excursion to Aar Glaciers, p. 1 08: horse to Meyringen, p. 106. 

5. Walk over Joch Pass to Engelberg, p. 104. 

6. Yoit. to Stansstad, p, 90 : boat to Alpnach, voit. to Lungern, 
p. 102. 

7. Horse over Briinig Pass to Reichenbach, p. 104 : on to Eo- 
senlaui Glacier, and back to Meyringen, p. 106, 109. 

The above combines both Joch and Briinig' Passes, in the right directions : they 
are of equal, but quite distinct, beauty. If only one be chosen, the Briinig for la- 
dies, the Joch for men. This will curtail the whole, thus — 

\st day. Lake of Lucerne, and lligi. 

2. Either Stansstad, Joch, Meyringen : or Alpnach, Briinig, Meyringen. 

3. Grimsel Pass to the Hospice. 

4. Back to Meyringen. 

5. Kosenlaui and back, on to Brienz. 

8. Voit. to Brienz, boat to Giessbach, steam to Interlaken, p. 109 : 
voit. to Lauterbrunnen, p. 113. 

9. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen, p. 114, and back. 

10. Ascent of the Schil thorn, p. 115, and back. 

11. Up Wengern Alp and back, p. 115 ; voit. to Grindelwald, 
p. 116. 

12. Voit. to JSTeuhaus, steam to Thun, p. 118 : dil. to Frutigen, 
p. 120. 

13. Horse over Gemmi Pass to Leukerbad, voit. to Susten, p. 122, 

14. Voit. to Visp, horse to Zermatt, p. 161. 

15. Excursions at Zermatt. 



xxxvi 



SKELETON-ROUTES 



; IN SWITZERLAND. 



16. Back to Visp, f drive to Sierre, p. 161, 160. 

t Here the ' Additional Section ' following- breaks off. 

17. Drive to Sion, tf horse over Diablerets to Bex, p. 1'30, 151. 

tt Here the * Additional Section ' joins on again. 

18. Drive to Aigle, horse through the Yallees des Ormonts to 
Chateau d'GGx, p. 151, 123. 

19. Yoit. through Simmenthal to Thun, p. 122 : rail to Berne, 
p. 124. 

20. See Berne : rail to Fribourg, and dil. to Bulle, p. 129, 12L 

21. Drive to Montbovon, horse over Dent de Jaman to Yevey^ 
p, 124, 147. 

The * Additional Section ' includes the remainder of this, but in a different order. 

22. Yoit. to Chillon, p. 148 — 150, and on past the Bridge- 
scene of St. Maurice, to Martigny, p. 150 — 152, 155, 156. 

23. Horse by Tete J^oire or Col de Balm to Chamoun}^, p. 158. 

24. Excursions at Chamouny, p. 171. 

25. Dil. to Geneva, p. 167. 

26. See Geneva, p. 137: steam to Lausanne, p. 144 — 145. 

27. Bail to Cossonay, voit. by Orbe to Yverdon, steam past 
ISTeuchatel to Bienne, p. 132 — 134. 

23. Yoit. through Yal Moutier to Basle, p. 134. 
.29. Rail either to Paris, or to the Bhine-Cities, homeward, p. 53. 

ADDITIONAL SECTION 
of eight days, to introduce Monte E-osa, the Simplon, and the back 
(the finest) approach to Mont Blanc. 

16^7t dai/ of preceding section — Prom Zermatt : Horse back 
to Yisp, drive to Brieg, p. 162—161, 164—165. 

17. Yoit. to Domo d'Ossola, p. 165. 

18. Excurs. to Falls of Tosa, and back, p. 166. 

1 9. Yoit. to Yogogna, mule upYal Anzasca to ^Macugnaga, p. 166. 

20. Back to Yogogna, p. 164. 

21. Yoit, to Baveno on Lago Maggiore, steam to Arona, p. 166, 
189 : rail to Turin, p. 207, 178. 

22. Bail to Ivrea, voit. to Aosta, p. 181—182. 

23. Yoit. to St. Didier, ascend the Cramont, p. 183. 

24—26. Mule-rd. round Mt, Blanc to Chamouny, p. 184—185. 
27. Mule by Tcte Noire to Martigny, p. 158—159. 
2S. (17 of preceding section. As from Sierre — ) Dil. to Sion, 
horse over Diablerets Pass to Bex, p. 160, 151. 

29 to 33 (same as 18 to 21 in preceding section, viz ) Aigle, 
Ormonts, Chat. d'CEx, Simmenthal, Thun, Berne, Fribourg, Ja- 
man, Yevey. 

33. Yoit. to Chillon, p. 148 — 150 : steam to Geneva, p. 150 — ^154. 

34 to 37 (same as 26 to 29 in preceding section). Geneva to 
Paris or the llhine. 



A MONTH, OUT AND HOME. 



xxxvii 



For General Travellers. 



(Conveyance 

1st day. London to Paris. 

2. To Strasbourg-, Freiburg". 

3. Hollenthal, Falls of the ilMne. 

4. Zurich, St. Gall. 

5. llagatz. 

6. Lake of Wallenstadt, Lake of Zurich 

to Rapperschwyl. 

7. Schwytz, Lowertz, Higi Kulm. 

8. Lucerne, and the Lake to Fhielen. 

9. Devil's Bridge, and back to Amsteg". 

10. Lake of Lucerne to Alpuach, 

thence to Luugern. 

11. Briinig- Pass, Meyring-en, Rosenlaui, 

and back to Beichenbach. 

12. Falls of the Aar, and back. 

13. Lake of Brienz, Interlaken, Lauter- 

brunnen. 

14. Miirren, Upper Valley, and back to 

Lauterbrunnen. 



everywhere.) 

15. Weng-ern Alp, Grindelwald. 

16. Interlaken, Thun. 

17. Berne, Fribourg. 

18. Chateau d'CEx. 

19. Yallees des Ormonts, Aigle. 

20. Martigny, Leuk. 

21. Leukerbad, back to Leuk, on to 

Visp. 

22. Zermatt. 

23. Back to Visp. 

24. Martigny. 

25. T6te Noire, Chamouny. 

26. Sallanches, Geneva. 

27. Lake of Geneva to Chillon, back to 

Lausanne. 

28. Yverdon, Neuchatel, Bienne. 

29. Val Moutier, Basle. 

30. To Paris, by Strasbourg. 

31. To London. 



A MONTH, OUT AND HOME. 

For Pedestrians. 



1st 

2. 

3. 

4. 
5. 
6. 
7. 



10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 



(* The asterisk marks where 
dai/. London * to Paris. 

* To Strasbourg and * Freiburg. 
Through the Hollenthal * to Falls of 

the Rhine. 

* To Ziirich and * Ragatz. 
Pfalfers, Kalfeuser Thai, Elm. 
Sernft Thai, Stachelberg. 
Klausen Pass, Altdorf. 

* Lake of Lucerne, Rigi. 

* To Engelberg. Joch Pass, Mey- 

ringen. 

Grimsel Pass to the Hospice. 
Strahleck Pass to Grindelwald, 
Wengern Alp to Lauterbrunnen. 
Sefinenthal and Diindengrat to Kan- 
dersteg. 

Gemmi Pass to Leukerbad. * To 

Susten, and * Brieg. 
Aletsch Glacier to Viesch. * To 

Mllnster. 



conveyance is advisable.) 

16. Nufenen Pass, Val Formazza, Pre- 

mia. 

17. * To Domo d'Ossola and * Ponte 

Grande. Macugnaga. 

18. Moro Pass, Saas. 

19. Zermatt. 

20. St. Theodule Pass, Chatillon. 

21. * To Aosta and * St. Didier. 

22. Ascend the Cramont, and back to 

Cormayeur. 

23. The Allee Blanche, Mont Jovet. 

24. Contamines, Chamouny. 

25. Tete Noire, Martigny. * To Sion. 

26. Diablerets Pass, Aigle. 

27. Yallees des Ormonts, Chat. d'CEx. 

28. * To Montbovon. Dent de Jaman, 

Chillon. 

29. - Lake of Geneva. 

30. * To Paris, by Lyons or Dole. 

31. To London. 



SHORT SAVOY SECTIONS 
in connection with Geneva and Paris. 

1. Geneva. Chambery. The Rhone. Lyons. Paris.— Pages 174 — 176, 15 — 14. 

2. Geneva. Chamb^i-y. Turin. Genoa. Corniche Pass. Nice. Marseilles. Paris. 
—Pages 174—178, 208, 209, 218, 213, 22—21, 17. 



SOUTH OF FRANCE AND NORTH OF ITALY 
in connection with Switzerland, and Savoy. 

1st day. Paris, Lyons, Marseilles: p. 17. 

2. Steam to Nice, 14 hrs., p. 21, 213. 2. Steam to Genoa, 18 hrs., p. 20, 209. 

3. Cornice Pass to I 3. Col di Tenda to 3. RailtoLagoMag- I 3. iiail to Turin, 
Genoa, dil., 22 hrs., Turin, dil., 22 hrs., giore, Switzerland, 4 hrs., p. 208. 

p. 218. 1 p. 180. 4| hrs., p. 189. I 



XXXVlll LONDON TO CONTINENTAL PORTS STEAMERS. 



15. Steamers, &c., between London and the Continent. 

France. 

The Steamers direct, via the Thames, have nothirig either in 
speed or economy to recommend their preference to the E.ailT^^ay 
communications from London to the coast, and thence steam cor- 
respondence across. Through-tickets allow of stoppages on the 
way, and are the cheapest. 

1. To Boulogne and Paris. By South-Eastern Kail, London- 
bridge station. Daily, according to tide. Fares — London to Bou- 
logne (5 hrs.), £1 9<9. ^d. and £1 O5. 6<r/. London to Paris (11 
hrs.), £2 14^. 'M. and £1 19^. od. (Return -tickets issued advan- 
tageously.) 

Paris to London by Boulogne, dailj-, according to tide. 

2. To Calais and Paris. By South-Eastern Rail, London-bridge 
station. Thrice daily. Fares — London to Calais (5 hrs.), £1 10^. 
^d, and £1 I5. U. London to Paris (12 hrs.), £3 \s. and £2 
4,?. 3r/. (Return-tickets issued advantageously.) 

Paris to London by Calais, thrice daily. 

3. To Dieppe and Paris. By Brighton Rail, London-bridge 
station. Daily, according to tide. Fares — London to Dieppe (10 
hrs.), ±85. and 14,?. London to Paris (14 hrs.), £1 85. and £1. 

Paris to London by Dieppe, daily, according to tide. 

4. To Havre and Paris. By South- Western Rail, Ys'aterloo- 
bridge station. Mond., Wed., Fri., according to tide. Fares — 
London to Havre (10 hrs.). London to Paris (16 hrs.), £1 %s. 
and £1. 

Paris to London by Havre, Mond., Wed., Fri., according to tide. 

Belgium. 

L London Bridge Rail to Dover ^ steam (6 hrs.) to Ostend, 
nightly, Si p. m. Through Fares— £1 17 s. 3d. and £1 5s. 3d. 
Ostend to Dover, nightly. Fares — 15s. and 10s. 

2. London, St. Katherine's Wharf, steam (12 hrs.) to Ostend., 
Wed. and Sat., according to tide. Fares — 18s. and 14.9. 

Ostend to London, Tues. and Fri. night, or Wed. and Sat. morn,, 
according to tide. 

3. London, St. Kathcrine's Wharf, steam (18 hrs.) to Antwerp^ 
Thurs. and Sund., noon. Fares — £1 7s. and £1. 

Antwerp to London, Wed., 1 p. m., Sund., 3 p. m. 

Holland. 

L London, steam (24 hrs.) to Jiotfcrdam, thrice a-weck. Fares 
— £1 10s. and 17s. i)d. But the length of time renders this the 
costliest route, as well as being the least interesting. 

Rotterdam to London, thrice a- week. 



LONDON TO SWITZERLAND — DIRECT ROUTES. XXxix 



18. London to Switzerland — Direct routes. 

Only the places best worth seeing on each are particularised. 
Short detours, in parentheses, are recommended, but not included 
in the items of time and cost. 
The time quoted is the quickest. 

GENERAL TABLE. 

I. BY PAHIS. Hours. 1st Class. 2nd Class 

£ s. d. £ s. d 

1. London-Bridge Rail, Folkestone, 
Boulogne, Paris, Nancy, Stras- 
bourg,* Basle {quickest) . . . 25 ...5 68...3195 

2. London-Bridge Rail, Dover, Calais, 

Paris, Nancy, Strasbourg,* Basle 26 ...5 68.. .3 19 5 

3. London-Bridge Rail, Newhaven, 
Dieppe, Rouen, Paris,Nancy, Stras- 
bourg,* Basle , . . . . . . 28... 4 2 1... 3 0 4 

4. London, Waterloo - Bridge Rail, 
Southampton, Havre, Rouen, Pa- 
ris, Nancy, Strasbourg,* Basle 34... 4 21.. .3 04 

5. London to Paris as above, No. 1. 10 ... 2 14 3 ... 1 15 6 
Then from Paris — 

(1) Dijon, Salins, Lausanne. 20 ... 2 6 10 ... 1 16 1 

(2) Dijon, Salins, Berne , . 24 ... 2 12 10 ... 2 10 
if) Dijon, Macon (Lyons), 

Geneva 15 ... 2 16 2 ... 2 2 2 

II. BY THE E,HIHE. 

6. London, Dover, Calais (Bruges, 
Ghent), Brussels, Malines (Ant- 
werp), Liege, Aix - la - Chapelle 
(Diisseldorf), Cologne, Mayence, 
Frankfort, Heidelberg, Baden- 
Baden, Freiburg, Basle . . . . 35 ... 5 2 9 ... 3 10 3 

7. London, Dover, Ostend, Bruges, 
Ghent (Antwerp), Malines (Brus- 
sels), Liege, and as before . . . 35 ... 5 1 6 ... 3 7 H 

8. St. Katherine's Wharf, Ostend, and 

as before 41 ... 3 12 6 ... 2 9 11 

9. St. Katherine's Wharf, Antwerp 
(Ghent, Bruges), Malines (Brus- 
sels), Liege, and as before . . .47...3i95...2 144 

From Strasbourg-, it is strongly recommended to cross to Kehl and Freiburg, in- 
stead of proceeding direct to Basle, page 11. 

From Paris to Basle by Troyes instead of Strasbourg saves 2 hrs., but loses in in- 
terest. 



xl 



LANGUAGES. 



Vocabulary of Languages — 

not to be regarded grammatically, but practically, and just to 
facilitate ' the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties.' 



English. 

Yes. If you please. 
No. Thank you. 
I am — Are'you — ? 
I have — Have you — ? 
I will not— Will you—? 
I want— Do you sell — ? 
Say only ' yes ' or ' no.' 
Write it. Give me — 

On the E-oad. 

Where is — ? Is there a house ? 

How far to — ? 

Are you going- to — ? 

Show me the way to — 

Is it easy to find ? 

3Iust I go to the right, left, straight on ? 

Iload. Foot-path. 

What is the name of this place ? 

How many hours' walk ? 

Will you carry ? I will give — 

Stop ! Go on ! Slowly. Quickly. 

On the Ha-il. 

Eailway. First class. 
My luggage. Goods train. 
At what o'clock does it depart ? 
Do we change carriages here ? 

In a Town. 

Passport. Post. Pre-paid. 
Custom-house. Office. 
Street. Bridge. Cathedral. Church. 
Hotel. CoiTee-house. Confectioner. 
Shop. Theatre. 

Where does live ? 

Have you a letter for me? 
How much does it cost ? 
It is too much. Here it is ! 

At an Hotel. 

Landlord. Waiter. Chambermaid. 

Can I sleep here ? 

Show me a room. 

On the (first) fioor. 

Are the sheets well aired ? 

Waken mc at (six) o'clock. 

Ereakfast — Tea. CofTec. 

Sugar. Milk. Bread. Butter. 

Cutlet. Egg. Cup. Saucer. 

Plate. Knife. Fork. Spoon. 
Dinner. — Sotip. Fish. Salt. 

Mutton. Beef. Fowl. 

Ham. Vegetables. Pastry. Dessert. 
List of wines. Brandy. Beer. 
A half-bottle. A glass. 
The Bill .» 



Frencij. 

Qui. S'il vous plait. 

Non. Hemercie. 

Je suis — Etes vous — ? 

J'ai — Avez-vous — ? 

Je ne veux pas — Youlez-vous- 

J'ai besoin de — Vendez-vous— 

Dis seulement * oui ' ou ' non.' 

Ecrivez-le. Donnez-moi — 



Ou est — ? Y-a-t-il une maison ? 

Combien de distance a — ? 

Ailez-vous d — ? 

Indiquez-moi a — 

Trouve-t-on facilement ? 

Faut-il aller a droite,a gauche, tout-di*oit ? 

Chemin. Sentier. 

Quel est le nom de ce lieu? 

Combien de lieues ? 

Youlez-vous porter ? Je donnerai — 

Arretez ! Allez ! Lentement. Yite. 



Chemin de fer. Premier. 
Mes bagages. Train commerce. 
A quelle heure part-il ? 
Change-t-on des voitures ici ? 



Passeport. Poste. AfFranchie. 
Douane. Bureau. 
E-ue. Pont. Cathedrale. Eglise. 
Hotel. Cafe. Confiseur. 
Boutique. Theatre. 

, ou demeure-t-il ? 

Avez-vous une lettre pour moi ? 
Combien coiite-elle? 
C'est trop. La voila ! 



Maitre d'hotel. Carbon. Femrae de 

chambre. 
Peux-je loger ici ? 
Montrez-moi une chambre. 
Au (premier) etage. 
Les draps, sont-ils bien sees ? 
Eveillez-moi a (six) h^ures. 
DeJeAner. — The. Cafe. 

Sucre. Lait. Pain. Beurre. 

Cotelette. QCuf. Tasse. Soucoupe. 

Assiette. Couteau. Fourchette. Cuiller, 
Diner. — Soupe. Poisson. Sel. 

iMouton. Bocuf. Volaille. 

Jambon. Legumes. Patisserie. DesserU 
Carte des vins. Cognac. Biere. 
Demi-bouteille. Un verre. 
Le compte ! 



LANGUAGES. 



xli 



Advice to the Speaker — 

not to attempt sentences; but pronounce boldly and baldly the 
one or two words which mainly imply the meaning. 



German. 

Ja. Ich bitte. 
Nein. Ich danke. 
Ich bin— SindSie— ? 
Ichhabe— Haben Sie— ? ** 
Ich mil nicht— Wollen Sie— ? 
Ich brauche — Verkaufen Sie — ? 
Sagen Sie nur 'ja' oder *nein.' 
Schreiben Sie. Geben Sie mir — 



Italian. 

Si. Se vi piace. 

Non. Eingrazio. 

lo sono — Siete — ? 

lo ho — Avete — ? 

Non voglio — Volete — ? 

Ho bisogno — Vendete — ? 

Dice solamente * si ' o ' non.' 

Scrivete la. Datemene— 



Wo ist— ? 1st ein Haus dort ? 

"Wie weit nach — ? 

Gehen Sie nach — ? 

Zeigen Sie mir den Weg nach — 

Ist es leicht zu finden 1 

Muss ich rechts gehen, links, geradeaus ? 

Weg. Fussweg. 

Wie heisst dieser Ort ? 

Wie viel Stun den ? 

Wollen Sie tragen ? Ich will geben — 
Halt ! Yorwiirts ! Langsam. Schnell. 



Dov' e — ? C e una casa ? 
Quanto distante a — ? 
Va ella a— ? 
Indicatemi a — 
E facile a trovarsi ? 

Debbo voltarmi poi a destra, a sinistra, 

Yia. Sentiero. [diritto ? 

Come si chiama quel paese ? 

Quante ore ? 

Yuole portare ? Daro — 

Fermatevi ! Su via ! Adagio. Presto. 



Eisenbahn. Erster Platz. 
Mein Gepack. Giiterzug. * ^ 
Um wie viel Uhr fahrt er ab ? 
Wechselt man die Wagen hier ?^ 



Strada ferrata. Prima piazza. 

Mio equipaggio. Traggetto dei beni. 

A che ora parte ? 

Si cangiano qui le carozze ? 



Pass. Post. Frei. 

Zollamt. Bureau. 

Strasse. Brlicke. Dom. Kirche. 

Gasthof. Kaffeehaus. Conditor. 

Lager. Theater. 

Wo wohnt— ? 

Haben Sie einen Brief fllr mich ? 

Wieviel kostet ? 

Ist zu viel. Ist hier ! 



Passaporto. Posta. Franco. 
Dogana. Uffizio. 

Strada. Ponte. Cathedrale. Chiesa. 

Albergo. Caffe. Confetturiere. 

Bottega. Teatro. 

Dove abita — ? 

Avete una lettera per me ? 

Quanto costa? 

E troppo. Ecco ! 



Gastwirth. Kellner. Zimmermagd; 

Kann ich hier schlafen ? 
Zeigen Sie mir ein Zimmer. 
Im (ersten) Stocke. 
Sind die Bettiicher trocken? 
Wecken Sie mich um (sechs) Uhr. 
Frlihstiick. — Thee. Kafiee. 

Zucker. Milch. Brod. Butter. 

Cotelette. Ei. Tasse. Untertasse. 

Teller. Messer. Gabel. . Loffel. 
Mittagessen. — Suppe. Fisch. Salz. 

Hammellleisch. EindHeisch. Gefliigel. 

Schinken. Gemiise. Backwerk. Dessert. 
Weinkarte. Cognac. Bier. 
Halbe Flasche. Ein Glas. 
Die Eechnung ! 



Albergatore. Cameriere. Cameriera. 

Puo allogiarmi qui ? 
Mostratemi una stanza. 
Al Tprimo) piano. 
Le lenzuola sono asciutte? 
Mi sveglierete a (sei) ore. 
Colazione. — Te. CafFe. 

Zucchero. Latte. Pane. Butiro. 

Bracciuola. Uova. Tazza. Sottocopa. 

Tondo. Coltello. Forchetta. Cucchiajo. 
Pranzo. — Zuppa. Pesce. Sale. 

Castrato. Manzo. PoUame. 

Presciutto. Legumi.Pasticceria. Frutta, 
Lista dei vini. Cognac. Birra. 
Mezza-bottiglia. IJn bicchier. 
II con to ! 



xlii 



LANGUAGES. 



English. 

Arrive 

Buy 

Call 

Come 
Depart 

Descend 

Drink 

Eat 

Go 

Hire 

Know 

Knock 

Leave 

Mount 

Open 

KUQ 

See 

Shut 

Speak 

Take 

Wash 



Bad, "Worse 

Cheap 

Clean 

Cold 

Dear 

Dirty 

Dry 

Early 

Good, Better 

Hot 

Large 

Long" 

Short 

Small 

Soft 

Thick, Thin 
Wet 



Black — White 
Blue — Red 
Brown — Grey 
Green — Yellow 
Light — Dark 



2. 
4. 
G. 
8. 
10. 
12, 
H. 
U. 
&c. 
30. 
.OO. 100. 
First. Second. 
Tiiird. Fourth. 



1. 
3. 

7.' 
9. 
11. 

i;5. 
I.'). 

17. 

20. 





Verbs. 




French. 


German. 


Italian. 


Arriver 


Ankommeu] 


Arrivare' 


Acheter 


Kaufen 


Comprare 


Appeler 


Rufen 


Chiaraare 


Venir 


Kommen 


Venire 


Partir 


Abgehen 


An dare via 


Descendre 


Untergehen 


Discendere 


Boire 


Trinken 


Bere 


Manger 


Essen . 


Mangiare 


Aller 


Gehen 


An dare 


Louer 


Miethen 


Aifitare 


Savoir 


Wissen 


Sapere 


Frapper 


Klopfen 


Picchiare 


Laisser 


Verlassen 


Lasciare 


Monter 


Steigen 


Montare 


Ouvrir 


Oeffnen 


Aprire 


Courir 


Laufen 


Correre 


Voir 


Sehen 


Vedere 


Fermer 


Schliessen 


Chiudere 


Parler 


Sprechen 


Parlare 


Prendre 


Nehmen 


Prendere 


Laver 


Waschen 


Lavare 


Adjectives. 




Mauvais, Pis 


Schlecht, Schlechter Cattivo, Piu cattivo 


Bon-niarche 


Billig 


Buon-mercato 


Propre ^ 


Kein 


Polito 


Froid . 


Kalt 


Freddo 


Cher 5 


Theuer ^ 


Caro 


Sale 


Schmutzig 


Sporco 


Sec 


Trocken 


Secco 


De bonne heure 


Friih 


Buon ora 


Bon, JMeilleur 


Gut, Besser 


Buono, Meglio 


Chaud 


Heiss 


Caldo 


Grand 


Gross 


Largo 


Longue 


Lang 


Lungo 


Court 


Kurz 


Corto 


Petit 


Klein 


Piccolo 


Doux 


Sanft 


Piano 


Epais, Mince 


Dick, Diinn 


Spesso, Sottile ; 


Humide 


Feucht 


Umido 




Colours. 




Noir — Blanc 


Schwarz — Weiss 


Nero — Bianco 


Bleu — Rouge 


Blau — Roth 


Azzuro — Rosso 


Brun — Gi-is 


Braun — Grau 


Bruno — BiGrlio 


Vert — Jaune 


Grim — ■ Gelb 


Verde — Giallo 


Claire — Sombre Hell — Dunkel 


Chiaro — Tetro 



Numbers. 

Un. Deux. 
Trois. Quatre. 
Cinq. Six. 
Sept. Huit. 
Neuf. Dix. 
Onze. Douze. 
Treize. (^uatorze 
(iuinze. Seize. 
Dix-sept, &c. 
V^ingt. Trente. 
Cin(iuantc. Cent. 
(MTiier. Second 



Eins. Zwei. 
Drei. Vier. 
Fiinf. Sechs. 
Sieben. Acht. 
Neun. Zehn. 
Elf. Zwcilf. 
Dreizehn. Vierzehn. 
Fiinfzehn. Sechzehn. 
Siebzehn, &c. 
Zwanzig. Dreissig. 
Fiinfzig. Hundert. 
Erste. Zweite. 



Troisicme. Quatriume Dritte. Vierte. 



Uno. Due. 
Tre. Quattro. 
Cinque. Sei. 
Sette. Otto. 
Nove. Dieci. 
Undici. Dodici. 
Tredici. Quattordici. 
Quindici. Sedici. 
Dicia-sette, Sec. 
Venti. Trenta. 
Cinquanta. Cento. 
Primo. Secondo. 
Terzo. Quarto. 



LANGUAGES. 



xliii 



Nouns. 



English, i 


French. 


German. 


Italian. 


Bed Un 


Lit 


Ein Bett Un 


Letto 


> Rpll La 


Cloche 


Die Glocke 11 


Campanello 


liook 




Buch 


Libro 


BooliSGllcr 


Lib r aire 


Buchhandler 


Libraio 




Bottes 


Stiefeln 


Stivali 


Boot— jSrCk 


Tire-botts 


Stiefelknecht 


Cavastivali 


Box 


Boite 


Koffer 


Baule 




Brosse 




Spazzola 


\_ tirpet-Dftg 


OtlO lie llLllif 


i^cisct 3,ScllG 


Sacco da nottc 


CtirriRffe 


Vol ture 




Carozza 




Petite monnaie 


Ivl€iii€S Geld 


Danari piccoli 


CIiees6 


1* roma^'e 




Ko r m a'o^o'io 


Chernist 


jr iicil Hi civile LI 




ftnp'71 

OjJ\^Z»l cllsj 


Cigars 




ell 1 Cll 
J.\.U, to V^iiCX 


Cocichiere 


0 a c n m ctn 


Crv^bf^^ 


Coat 


Pabit 


Eock 


Abito 


Collar 


Colle 




Collaretto 


Comb 






Pettine 


\_/0rKscrGW 


S ii c-UUtlVyllvH 




JLVAlll [JJllCLbU* 


Doctor 


Medecin 


Arzt 


Medico 




Porte 


Thur 


Porta 


Ti^vpniTior 


Soir 


A-bend, 


Sera 


Fire 








Oarden. 


Jardin. 


Gfl<rten 


Giardino 


Cf lovBS 




TT 51 n rl cr»V!n V» o 
J 1 ctlltlodililiC 


tf^ n n t"i 




Guide 


Puhrer 


Guida 


Hat 




Hut 


"npll rfc 
^^cipcliu 




Cheval 


Pferd 


Cavallo 


Ice 




Eis 


VJ 11 J cH^L IVJ 


Ink 


Emire 


Dinte 


J lll^lllVIo tl 


Laundress 


Blanchisseuse 


ctoUllClXll 


T.nvfinHfiiia 

J j<X\ ctliLldJOi 


Li""ht 


Lumicre 


lilcht 




Lucifers 


Allumettes 


/-JtliiU llUi^ 


Luciferi 


Man 


Homme 


Mann 




Meat 


Viande 




Carne 


Money 




Geld 


Danaro 


Mountain 


Monta^j^ne 


Berg" 


IVIonta^'na 


IVI u s t ar d 


IVIoutarde 


Senf 


iVl Uc L<ll Li A 




Nuit 




Notte 




Midi 


IVIitta*^ 


TVTpv'/nHi 

i.TXCZ«Z(Ulii 


Paper 




Papier 




Pen 


Plunie 






Pepper 


Poivre 


Pfeffer 


Pepe^ 


Pin 


Epingle 


Steckn adel 


Spilla 


Pocket-kercliief 


M ouchoir 


T^Ji GpVipntni^Vl 
X daLllCllLLlU'll 




Portmanteau 


Portmanteau 




Baule 


Potatoes 


Pommes de terre 


Kartoffeln 


Jl l^llii Lil LCI s c& 


Scissors 


Ciseaux 


Scheeren 


Forbici 


Slippers 


Pantoufles 


PantofFeln 


Pianelle 




Porte-chaisc 


1 ragsessel 


Portantin^ 


Shirt 


Chemise 


Hemd 


Camicia 




Souliers 


Schuhe 


^pfivnp 

OCctl jJC 


Shoemaker 


Cordonnier 


ouiiuiiiiidt/iicr 


Calzolaio 








Tinn p 
OctpUllC 


Socks 


Bas 


otl Ullipic 


Calze 


Steamer 


Bateau a vapeur 


DampfschifF 


Batello a vapore 


Tailor 


Tailleur 


Schneider 


Sartore 


Tobacco 


Tabac 


Tabak 


Tabacco 


Towel 


Essuie-main 


Handtuch 


Sciugatoio 


Town 


Ville 


Stadt 


Citta 


Trousers 


Pantalons 


Hosen 


Calzoni 


Umbrella 


Parapluie 


Kegenschirm 


Ombrello 


Water {closet) 


Eau {commodiie) 


Wasser {abtritt) 


Acqua {priaato) 



D 



xliv 



FRENCH RAILS. 



Eng. 
Mis. 



1G9 



G4 
148 
235 



1 

fr.c. 



Fares. 
2 

fr.c 



13 75 

30 35 



10 30 
22 75 



3 

fr.c. 



7 GO 
16 70 



BOULOGNE to PARIS, 



LoNDOX Bridge Kail. 

FoLKESToxE (steam).. 

Boulog-ne (rail) dep. 

Amiens 

Paris arr. 



S 4 
21 85 

38 45 



6 GO 
15 43 
28 90 



5 — 
12 40 
21 50 



CALAIS to PAEIS. 

London Bridg-e RL.dep. 

Dover (steam) 

Calais (rail) dep. 

Lille 

Amiens 

Paris arr. 



a.m. a.m. 



Trains. 
1 2, 31 1 11, 2, 31 1, 2 I 
a.m. I p.m. | p.m. | p.m. 



In connexion -with Folkestone. 
According to. tide, daily. 



1,2 
p.m. 



5 20 
9 10 
a.m. 



1 Ex. 

p.m. 
8 30 
10 40 
1 30 
3 10 
5 20 
7 40 



6 

9 30 
1 25 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



7 

10 10 
1 30 
5 5 
p.m. 



10 30 
1 30 
5 5 
p.m. 



I Ex. 
a.m. 

6 55 
9 10 

11 
1 30 
3 40 
5 50 

p.m. 



3 40 
5 50 
p.m. 



1, 2 
a.m. 

8 30 
11 — 
2 — 
4 25 
8 19 
11 — 
p.m. 



6 30 
10 5 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

'5*35 

9 10 
12 55 
4 50 
p.m. 



30 
8 19 
11 — 
p.m. 



8 40 
11 50 
3 30 
a.m. 



38 
123 



7 5 
24 20 



5 25 
19 25 



3 95 
14 5 



DIEPPE to PARIS. 

London Bridge Rail 

Newhaven (steam) 

Dieppe (rail) 

Rouen 

Paris .arr. 



1,2,3 1,2,3 1, 2 1,2,3 
p.m. 



1, 2 1,2,3 1,2,3 
p.m. j p.m. 



In connexion with Newhaven. 



p.m. 





6 45 


10 — 




4 50 


6 — 


9 30 


1 15 


5' 12 


7 25 


10 30 


1 15 


5 30 


9 20 




a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


1,2,3 


1, 2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3, 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 



7 40 
9 35 
12 — 



9 35 
12 40 
5 



a.m. I a.m. 



55 
143 



10 95 
28 20 



7 85, 
21 95 



5 50 
16 40 



HAVRE to PARIS. 

LoNDON,Waterloo Br. Rl. 

Southampton (steam)... 

Havre (rail) dep. 

Rouen 

Paris .arr. 



1,2 1,2,3 
]).m. *p.m. 
In connexion with Southampton. 
According to tide, thrice a- week. 
... 6 45 10 30 2 — 5 — 7 — 10 - 
6 — 9 30 1 15 5 12 8 5 9 35 12 40 
10 30 1 15 5 30 9 20 ... 12 — 5 5 
a.m. p.m. p.m. p.m. p.m. p.m. a.m. 



1 50 
1 50 
1 50 
- 80 



1 25 
1 25 
1 25 
- 60 



PAEIS RAILS. 

Paris, Mt. Parnasse, Hive gauche, to Versailles 
,, St. Lazare, Rive droite „ 

Paris, St. Lazare, to St. Germains 

Paris, Rue de Dunkerque, to St. Denis 



Dei)arture3 
Every hour. 
_ past every hr. 
^ past every hr. 
Every houi-. 



Time 
occupied 
35 min. 
45 min. 
42 min. 
12 min. 



88 
107 
214 
220 



15 90 
19 25 

38 G5 

39 55 

56 20 



■0 85 



11 59 
14 45 
29 — 
29 65 

42 15 

53 '1*5 



PARIS to BASLE. 

By Strasbourg. 

Paris dep 

Epernay 

Br. to Riieims arr. 

Frouard * , 

Nancy arr 

,, dep. 

Strasbourg arr. 

„ dep. 

Basle.... arr, 

»• Moselle line. 

BY TROYES. 

Paris (Strasbourg St. )dep. 

Vvoyes, JivJ/'cl 

Mulhouse J unction 

Basle arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

6 — 

10 50 
12 — 
5 7 

5 20 
5 55 
10 



1 

a.m. 

7 — 
9 44 



29 
44 
52 

4 35 
25 

9, 10 



p.m. 
2 40 
8 30 
p.m. p.m. p.m. 



1,2,3 
noon 
12 — 

4 7 

5 50 
10 25 
10 44 



1,2,3 


1 Ex. 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


5 30 


8 — 


9 — 


11 15 


10 7 


11 4 


12 47 


4 — 


12 5 


12 5 


3 5 


7 35 




3 28 


G 24 


10 24 




3 43 


6 41 


10 43 




3 58 


6 51 


10 58 


a.m. 


7 5 


11 5 


3 25 


4 40 


7 40 


12 55 




9 20 


11 35 


5 35 




a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 



10;) 

304 
323 



18 70 



14 5 
41 25 
43 85 



10 30 
30 25 
32 15 



a.m. 

5 45 
3 45 

6 — 
p.m. 



a.m. 

7 15 
12 9 

9 45 
11 - 
p.m 



p.m. 

12 10 
5 53 



p.m. 


p.m. 

7 45 


4 45 


10 15 


11 52 




7 55 
9 10 


p.m. 


a.m. 



The objqct of these Tables is— to give a general idea of directions, distances, connexions, 
lime, and fares. As to changes of the hours, see * Preface.' 



FRENCH RAILS. 



xlv 



Eng. 
Mis. 

9*2 

169 
195 
278 



1 

fr. c. 



Fares. 
2 

fr. c. 



16 

30 35 
41 60 
67 85 



12 15 
22 75 
31 60 
49 



3 

fr.c. 



9 10 
16 70 



PARIS to BOULOGNE. 



Paris dep. 

Amiens 

Boulogne arr. 

Steam to Folkestone... 

Kl. to London Bridge... 



7 

10 20 



I Ex.! 
a.m 

8 — 

II 15 
1 20 



Trains. 



1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


11 — 


2 — 


4 10 


10 30 


2 30 


6 — 


8 15 


2 55 


5 5 


9 25 




6 15 



According to tide, daily. 
In connexion with Folkestone. 



92 
171 
235 
257 
345 



16 60 

30 

45 
49 40 
76 60 



12 45 
22 30 
28 90 
37 5 
55 40 



9 10 

16 50 
21 50 



PARIS to CALAIS. 

Paris dep. 

Amiens , 

Lille 

Calais arr. 

Steam to Dover arr. 

Rl. to London Bridge.. arr. 



I Ex. 
a.m. 

7 — 
9 10 

II 10 
1 10 
3 15 
5 45 

p m. 



1 Ex. 
a.m. 

8 — 
10 15 
1 35 
4 20 
6 30 
10 — 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

11 — 
1 50 
6 45 
9 50 



1, 2 
p.m. 

2 - 

5 20 
9 30 



p.m. 


a.m. 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


noon 


p.m. 


12 — 


4 — 


4 50 


8 15 


7 30 





I Ex. 
p.m. 

7 30 
9 25 

II 40 
1 40 
4 — 
6 30 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

11 15 
3 — 
7 30 

11 — 
3 15 
5 45 

p.m. 



85 
123 
187 
243 



16 90 
24 20 

32 50 



13 
19 25 
22 50 
25 — 



10 1 
14 5 



PARIS to DIEPPE. 

Paris dep. 

Rouen 

Dieppe arr. 

Steam to Newhaven.... 

Rail to London Bridge.. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

7"*20 

9 50 



I Ex, 
a.m. 

8 25 

II 17 
12 40 



1 Ex. 
p.m. 

6 — 
8 47 
10 40 



1,2,3, 
p.m. 

7 — 
11 35 



According to tide, daily. 
In connexion with Newhaven. 



1,2 
night 
12 15 

4 1 

6 50 



85 
143 
245 
325 



16 90 
28 20 

34 35 

35 — 



13 80 
21 95 
25 — 
25 — 



10 15 
16 40 



PARIS to HAVRE. 

Paris dep. 

Rouen 

Havre arr. 

Steam to Southampton 
Rl . to London, Waterloo B. 



1,2, 3 1 Ex. 1,2,3 1,2,3 1 Ex. 3, 1,2 
a.m. a.m. a.m. noon p.m. p.m. night 

8 25 7 25 12 — 6 — 10 20 12 15 
11 35 12 — 4 35 8 59 3 — . 4 — 
1 25 3 5 7 30 11 15 5 40 6 15 
According to tide, thrice a-week. 
In connexion with Southampton. 



1 50 
1 50 
1 50 
- 80 



1 25 
1 25 
1 25 
— 60 



PARIS RAILS. 

Versailles, Rive gauche, to Paris, Mt. Parnasse 
,, Rive droite, to Paris, St. Lazare . 

St. Germains to Paris, St. Lazare 

St. Denis to Paris, Rue de Dunkerque 



Departures 
^ past every hr. 
Every hour. 
Every hour. 
Everv hour. 



Time 
occupied 
35 min. 
45 min. 
42 min. 
12 min. 



8*9 


14***65 


11**— 


7**35 


From Strasbourg. 


93 


16 80 


12 60 


9 25 


98 


17 70 


13 25 


9 75 


22*4 


40* *45 


30"*30 


22 25 


312 


55 20 


42 15 


30 90 



BASLE to PARIS. 

By Strasbourg. 

Basle dep, 

Strasbourg arr. 

dep. 

Nancy arr. 

,, dep. 

Frouard * 

Br. from Rheims dep. 

Epernay 

Paris arr. 

*• Moselle line. 

BY TROYES. 

Basle dep. 

Mulhouse Junction 

Troyes, Buffet 

Paris (StrasbourgSt.)arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



6 5 
6 23 

11 20 

12 54 
4 20 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



5 30 
9 52 
10 7 
10 26 
2 50 
4 46 
9 25 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

5 10 
12 — 
12 30 

4 55 

5 10 
5 29 
9 40 

12 9 
4 — 
a.m. 



1,2 
a.m. 

7 - 
10 50 
12 15 

2 59 



10 25 
p.m 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

11 — 
3 40 
7 30 

11 45 

12 9 
12 32 

5 — 

6 25 
10 35 
a.m . 



1,2, c 
p.m. 

5 - 
9 5r 



3 45 
39 85 
58 45 



2 60 
29 90 
43 83 



1 90 

21 90 
32 15 



6 30 
12 
noon 



a.m. 

10**- 

3 40 
p.m. 



a.m. 

5"*20 
3 30 
8 50 
p.m. 



a.m. 

6 55 
11 30 
9 40 



p.m. 



p.m 

3 — 

4 25 
1 18 

5 30 
a.m. 



The object of these Tables is— to givea greneralidea of direction^;, distances, connexions, 
time, and fares. As to changes of the hours, see ' Preface.' 



xlvi 



FEENCH RAILS. 





Fares 






y.ng. 
Mis. 


1 


1 


1 3 


fr. c. 


fr." c. 


fr. 


c. 




From Paris. 




220 


39 55:2^ b.- 


21 


2,5 


214 


38 G5 


29 — 


21 


25 


244 


39 G") 


29 80 


21 


25 


265 


42 95 


32 20 


23 





236 46 85I35 I5I25 15 



— From Luxembourg— 



MOSELLE LINE. 

(See Paris to Basle.) 
Nancy dep. 



Frouard 

r^Ietz 

Tliionville.. 



Luxembourg (a).. 



..arr. 

arr. 



18 


3 — 


2 10 


60 


9 40 


6 90 


92 


13 80 


10 20 


126 


18 60 


13 80 



1 lOjArlon 

4 70 Jemelle [b) 

«8»Namur 

9 30 Brussels, Luxembourg st an-. 



1,2,3 1, 2,3 
a.m. a.m. 



3 30 

3 46 

4 51 
6 15 
8 10 



a.m. 

8 25 

9 45 
11 50 

1 20 
2 

3 30 



6 30 
6 53 

8 30 

9 50 
12 15 



Trains. 

1,2,3 1,2,3 1,2,3, 
a.m. p.m. p.m. 



10 20 
10 41 
12 35 



1 30 

1 45 

2 44 
5 15 
7 35 



5 20 
5 42 
7 4 
9 50 
11 — 



1,2,3 

p.m, 

9 5 

9 29 
10 55 



a) Luxembourg to Treves, dil., in 5 hrs. (6) Jemelle to Hans Grotto, omnib. in ^ hr., 1| fr. 



PARIS to LYONS- 



36 


6 60 


4 95 


3 


65 


196 


35 30 


26 45 


19 


40 


226 


40 55 


30 40 


22 


30 


,249 


49 5 


33 75 


24 


75 


_316 


56 80 


42 60 


31 


25 




From Lyons 






143 


25 75 


19 30 14 


55 


218 


39 20!29 40 21 
1 1 


55 



— From Marseilles — 
41 I 7 50 I 5 65 I 4 15 



Paris dep. 

Fontainebleau 

Dijon 

lir. to Dole 

Salins (c) arr. 

Lyons arr, 

dep. 



Avignon..., 
Marseilles.. 



Marseilles to Toulon. 

Marseilles dep, 

Toulon arr. 



1,2,3 


lEx. 


1.2,3 


1,2,3 


1 Ex. 


1 Ex. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 




11 — 


11 30 


2 15 


8 5 


8 30 


8 28 


12 6 


1 26 


3 46 


9 12 


9 4v 


4 — 


5 20 


9 30 


11 36 


2 29 


3 18 




7 37 






4 2 


7 4& 




9 10 






0 5 


9 5 


1045 


9 29 




4"*55 


6 28 


1 25 


p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


8 — 


10 30 


10 20 


6 10 




8 — 


4 — 


3 40 


6 44 


3 5 


7 — 


1 14 


8 — 


6 35 


10 17 


7 10 


11 5 


4 — 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 




p.m. 


7 — 


8 50 


11 45 


3 45 




7 10 


9 30 10 45 
1 


2 15 


5 40 




9 20 



(c) From Salins, dils., to Neuchatel, in 11 hrs. ; — to Lausanne, 11 hrs. ; — toGENEVA, 11 hrs. 













LYONS to GENEVA. 


1,2,3 


1,2,;: 


1,2,3 


1,2,'3 


1, 2, 3 


1,2,3 














a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 












Lyons, Brotteaux dep. 




5 50 


8 — 


10 25 


3 45 


7 20 


. 58 


10 40 




80 


5 75 


Culoz (June, for Aix, 8:c.*) 




8 50 


12 — 


1 35 


6 47 


10 12 


79 


14 10 


10 


CO 


7 75 




13 — 


9 57 


1 — 


2 32 


7 53 


11 5 


99 


17 90 


13 


45 


9 85 




7 10 


11 — 


2 15 


3 50 


9 — 


11 59 












*Savoy and North Italian Rails. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 



31 — 

36 — 



PARIS to BRUSSELS. 

(Great Luxembourg.) 

dep. 



Paris 

C^harleroi 
Brussels . 



1,2,3 


1 Ex. 


1, 2 


2 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 




9 — 


12 15 


8 15 


' 9 — 


4 35 


2 55 


9 25 


6 — 


10 10 


7 15 


4 30 




8 30 


12 — 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m . 


noon 






Classes. 




1, 2 




1 Ex. 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 

8 30 






6 55 


8 30 






9 10 


11 — 


10 40 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 






11 55 


2 — 




8*30 


10 10 


2 5 


4 20 


5 40 


1 5 
G 


3 45 
V 


,6 55 
T 


9 25 
T 

G 


10 15 
*G 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 



Eng. 
Mis. 



147 
Lv7 
154 



1 

fr. c. 



Classes. 
2 

fr. < 



21 65 
44 25 
23 35 



6 60 

16 50 

32 20 

17 80 



3 

fr. c. 



5 — 
1160 

12 55 



CALAIS to BRUSSELS. 

LcvDOx I'ridge Hail dep 

Dover (steam) 

Calais (rail) dep. 

Lille , 

i3russels. arr, 

T. JJy Tournay 

V. By Valenciennes 

G. By Ghent 



The object of these Tables is-to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



FRENCH RAILS. 



xlvii 



Eng. 
Mis. 


1 

fr. c. 


2 

fr. c. 


3 

fr. c. 


34 


4 80 


3 60 


2 40 


69 
118 


9 20 
15 60 


^^6 90 
11 70 


4 60 

7 80 


126 


18 60 


13 80 


9 30 



-From Luxembourg- — 



21 


3 


90 


2 


95 


2 


15 


41 


6 


50 


5 




Q 


65 


56 


11 


5 


8 


50 


6 


25 


62 


11 


95 


9 


25 


6 


80 



MOSELLE LINE. 



(See Paris to Basle.) 
Brussels, Luxembourg- st dep. 

N^^"^ -{de'p; 

Jemelle (a) 

Arlon 



Luxembourg (6) . 



dep. 



Tliionville 

Metz 

Frouard .. 
Nancy 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



4 50 
6 4 
6 20 



1, 2, 3 
a.m. 

7 — 

8 50 

9 20 
11 45 



Trains. 



a.m 

5 30 

6 50 
8 6 

10 
10 30 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

9.15 

10 45 

11 5 

12 50 

3 5 

4 — 

a.m. 

9 30 

11 10 

1 52 
3 9 
3 30 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

2^— 

4 15 

5 — 
7 25 



p.m. 

1 15 

3 10 

4 37 

5 5 



p.m. 

4 3 

5 50 
7 40 
9 2 
9 30 



(«) Jemelle to Hans Grotto, omnib., in ^ lir., IJ fr. [b) Luxembourg to Treves, dil., in 5 hrs. 



TOULON— MAKSEILLES— LYONS to PAEIS. 

Toulon to Marseilles. 

Toulon dep. 

Marseilles arr. 



41 I 7 50| 5 fi5| 4 15 
— From Marseilles — 



13 55 
39 20 



10 15 
29 40 



7 45 
21 55 



From Dole 



5 25 
33 95 
40 55 



3 95 
25 45 
30 40 



2 90 
18 65 
22 30 



Marseilles dep, 

Avignon 

Lyons arr. 

,, dep. 

Br. from Salins(c) dep. 

Dole , 

Dijon 

Fontainebleau 

Paris arr. 



c) To Salins,dils.,from Neuchatel, in 11 hrs.; — from LAr 



1, 2,3 
a.m. 

6 — 
8 31 
a.m. 

7 40 
11 29 

8 17 
p.m. 

9 20 



2 39 

10 13 

11 45 
a.m. 

SANNE, 



1 Ex. 




1,2,3 
p.m. 

5 50 

8 1 
p.m. 

9 15 

1 57 
9 20 
a.m. 
10 30 

2 10 

3 20 

4 43 
2 — 
4 13 
p.m 



1,2.3 
p.m. 

8 — 

9 53 
p.m 
10 30 
1 27 

7 — 
a.m. 



40 
50 
9 
21 
30 
p.m 



; — from Geneva, llhrs_ 











GENEVA to LYONS. 


1,2,3 


1,2,3, 


1, 2,3 


1,2,3 
















a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 
















6 — 


10 — 


2 10 


4 50 






20 


3 80 


2 85 


2 10 




8 8 


11 20 


3 3 


5 58 






41 


7 50 


5 65 


4 15 




9 26 


12 30 


4 16 


7 12 






99 


17 90 


13 45 


9 85 




1 10 


3 30 


7 15 


10 — 














^'Savoy and North Italian Rails. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 














BRUSSELS to PAEIS. 






















(Great Luxembourg.) 


1,2 


Ex. 


1, 2 


Ex. 


1. 2,3 














a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


















7 — 


1 — 


5 30 




3*9 


5*— 


3 "70 






6 — 


7**25 


11 55 


3 — 


7 45 




215 


36 — 


27 — 






4 — 


2 — 


9 40 


9 — 
















p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


















Classes. 






Eng. 


Classes. 


BRUSSELS to CALAIS. 


1 


1,2 


1, 2 


1,2 


1, 2 


1,2 


1 


2 


3 




a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


Mis. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 




6 15 


7 35 


7 45 


11 30 


5 15 


7 15 


47 












9 20 




1 15 




















10 30 




8**25 














9*45 










10***10 












«. ^ 


. ' 




^ 


83 


13 20 


9 90 


6 60 


Lille 


11 10 


1 


35 


C 50 


11 


40 


147 


21 65 


16 50 


11 60 




1 15 


4 


■M 


9 55 


2 




169 


37 40 


28 5 






3 45 


7 


30 


4 


30 




257 


64 90 


46 50 






5 45 


10 




6 


30 














p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 





Ar to chan^'es in the hours, see * Preface.' 



xlviii 



BELGIAN BAILS. 



Eng. 
Mis. 



Fares.5 
1 

fr. c. 



- From Ostenc, 



1 80 
5 50 

10 — 

11 — 



1 30 

4 — 
7 40 



3 

fr. c, 



- 90 
2 70 

4 95 

5 30 



OSTEND to BRUSSELS. 

London Bridge dep. 

Dover (steam*) dep. 

^Sunday excepted. 

Ostend dep. 

Bruges 

Ghent 

Malines 

Brussels arr. 



1,2,3 



7 40 
a.m. 



1,2,3 



a.m. 

6 15 
6 45 
8 30 



Trains. 
1 Ex. 



p.m. 

8 30 
10 50 
a.m 
7 15 

7 27 

8 20 

9 35 
10 — 

a.m. 



1,2,3 



Mis. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


1*4 


2* — 


1*50 


— '*95 


26 


3 50 


2 70 


1 75 



1,2,3 


1 Ex. 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


6 15 


9 — 


10 15 


5 50 


9 25 


10 40 


7 30 


9 50 


11 15 


a.m. 


|a.m. 


a.m. 



am 

9 15 
9 50 
11 30 

1***5 
p.m. 



1,2,3 



noon 
12 15 

1 15 

2 40 
4 15 
4 50 
p.m, 



p.m. 

5 40 

6 15 

7 35 

.9**25 
p.m. 



ANTWERP to BRUSSELS. 

Antwerp dep. 

Malines 

Brussels arr, 



1 Ex. 
p.m. 

2 50 

3 15 
3 40 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m, 

4 30 

5 10 
5 45 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

7 • 

7 55 

8 30 
p.m. 



Mis. 
*31 



fr. c. 
4***50 



fr.c. 
3*— 



fr. c, 
2*— 



ANTWERP to GHENT. 

Antwerp dep. 

Ghent arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

5 30 
7 30 



1,2 
a.m. 

8 30 

9 50 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 30 
12 — 



1,2 
p.m. 

2 30 

3 50 



1,2,3 
p.m, 

4 30 
6 30 



1,2 
p.m. 

7 — 

8 20 



Mis. 

*i*2 

27 
-71 



105 
150 



fr. c. 

1*80 

2 80 
8 50 
10 — 
10 50 
15 25 
24 75 



fr. c. 

1***30 

2 20 

6 50 

7 50 

8 — 
11 45 
18 20 



fr. c. 

— '*85 

1 40 

4 25 

5 5 
5 25 
7 55 

12 30 



BRUSSELS to COLOGNE. 

Brussels dep. 

Malines 

Louvain 

Liege 

Pepinster, (for Spa*) 

Verviers 

Aix-Ia-Chapelle 

Cologne arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



7 

7 45 

8 45 
10 30 
12 30 
noon 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

6 45 

7 15 

8 — 

10 10 

11 5 
11 25 



1 Ex. 
a.m. 

9 30 
9 50 
10 25 
12 5 

12***50 

2 10 

3 40 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

1 15 

1 45 

2 15 

4 30 

5 10 
5 35 
7 10 

p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

4 45 

5 15 
5 55 
8 10 

8 45 

9 15 



p.m. 



1, 2 
p.m. 

10 • 
10 25 
10 60 
12 55 

1**50 

3 5 
5 — 
a.m. 



Mis. 

*34 

72 
149 



fr. c. 

4**80 

8 — 
23 40 



fr. c. 

3**60 

6 

17 — 



fr. c. 

2***40 

4 — 
11 50 



By Namur. 

Brussels dep. 

NA>roR 

Liege 

Cologne arr. 



1, 2, 3 
a.m. 

7 — 
9 



1,2 
a.m. 
9 15 
11 5 
2 15 
7 45 
p.m. 



1,2.3 
p.m.' 

2 

5 45 
8 10 

p.m. 



1, 2, 3 
(p.m- 
6 3O 
10 3 
1 5 
4 35 
a.m. 



— From Land en — 
56 I 4 551 3 401 2 30 
67 7 4.5 5 60| 3 70 



By Mastricht. 

Louvain, above 

Landen Junction 

Mastricht (Wyck station) 

Aix-la-Chapelle, Marschier station, above 



6 

7 28 



9 — 
11 12 
1 



p.m. 

2 20 

3 27 

5 32 

6 55 



p.m. 

5 65 
7 10 
10 10 



Mis. Th.s. Th.s.'Th.s. 



2 14 1 20 1 10 



>.ee opposite page. 



By Dusseldorf. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, Marschier station dep. 

Diisseldorf, Ober-Cassel station arr. 

Coin station dep. 

Cologne, Deutz station arr. 

See • Dutch Rails.* 



1, 2,3 
a.m. 

7 30 

10 22 

11 32 

12 45 
noon 



1, 2, 3 
a.m. 
9 24 
noon 

3 32 

4 50 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
]).m. 

2 50 
5 13 

7 28 

8 40 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

6 45 
9 32 



p.m. 



Mis. 

8 



fr.c. 


fr. c. 


1 80 


1 3.^) 



fr. c. 



* Spa to Pepinster, and vice versa. Jin half-an-hour. 



The object of these Tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



BELGIAN RAILS. 



xlix 



12 
47 

75 
89 
153 
241 



Fares. 
1 2 S 
fr. c. fr. c. fr. c. 



1 80 
5 30 
8 80 
10 50 

60**40 



1 30 
4 — 
6 50 



- 85 
2 65 

4 40 

5 30 



BETJSSELS to OSTEND. 

Brussels dep. 

Malines 

Ghent * 

Bruges.......... 

Osteiid....i 

For Dover (steam*) ....dep. 

London Bridge arr. 

* Satiirdaj' excepted. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



6 15 

7 35 

8 30 



Trains. 



1,2,3 1, 2 
a.m. a.m. 

6 30 7 35 

7 — . 

9 20 

10 35 

11 30 



1, 2 
a.m. 

11 30 

1**10 

2 20 

3 10 



p.m. 



1 Ex. 
p.m. 

3 — 

3 20 

4 35 

5 30 

6 — 
6 30 
4 30 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

4 45 

5 15 

7 — 

8 25 

9 15 



p.m. 



fr. c. 

1**8( 

3 50 



fr. c. 



1 30 

2 70 



fr. c. 



- 85 
1 75 



BRUSSELS to ANTWERP. 

Brussels dep. 

Valines 

Antwerp 



1,2,3 
am. 

6 20 

6 45 

7 30 
a.m. 



lEx. 
a.m. 

8 45 

9 5 
9 53 
a.m. 



1 Ex, 
a.m. 

9 30 
9 40 

a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 45 

11 5 
12 
noon 



1 Ex. 
p.m. 

2 45 

3 5 
3 35 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 
8 15 

8 40 

9 25 
p.m. 



fr. c. 
4***50 



fr. c. 



fr. c. 
2**- 



GHENT to ANTWERP. 

Ghent dep. 

Antwerp arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

6 10 
8 20 



1, 2 
a.m. 

9 - 
10 20 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 20 

11 55 



1, 2 
p.m. 

2 30 

3 50 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

4 20 
6 20 



1, 2 
p.m. 

7 — 

8 30 



45 
G4 
66 
79 
123 
138 
150 



Th.s. 



2 15 

3 27 



6 20 



Th. s. 



1 25 

2 25 



3 6 



Th. s. 

1* 

1 28 



2 6 
3**10 



COLOGNE to BRUSSELS. 

Cologne dep. 

Aix-la-Chapelle 

Verviers 

Pepinster, (for Spa*) 

Liege 

Louvain , 

Malines 

Brussels arr. 



1.2,3 
a.m. 



6 25 

6 35 

7 25 
9 40 

10 20 

11 — 



1 Ex. 
a.m. 

9 15 
10 40 
12 — 
12 5 
12 25 

2 20 

2 55 

3 20 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

1 15 

3 15 

4 45 

4 53 

5 45 

7 45 

8 25 

9 — 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m 

5 h 

7 15 

8 15 

8 45 

9 30 



1,2,3 
p.m. 



p.m. 



p.m. 



1,2 
p.m. 

11 — 

12 30 
1 55 

2*' 40 

4 30 
5 

5 40 
a.m. 



Mis. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. 


c. 


*7*7 


15**40 


ir- 


7* 


*50 


115 


18 60 


is 40 


9 


10 


149 


23 40 


17 — 


11 


50 



Cologne .... 
Liege 

Namur ... 

Brussels . 



By Namur. 



. dep. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

6**— 

8 50 
11 5 
noon 



1,2,3 
p.m, 

2**40 

6 15 
8 15 
p.m. 



1 Ex. 
a.m 

9 15 
12 35 

2 — 

3 30 
p.m. 



I Ex. 
p.m. 

II — 
2 45 
6 40 
8 30 
a.m. 



Mis. 

22 
57 
76 



From Aix- 
fr. c. ifr. c. 

2 90| 2 15 
7 451 5 60 
10 15l 7 40 



fr. c. 

1 45 
3 70 
5 — 



By Mastricht. 
Aix-la-Chapelle, Marschier station, above 

Mastricht (Wyck station) 

Landen Junction 

Lonvain, above 

By Diisseldorf. 

Cologne, Deutz station dep. 

Diisseldorf, Coin station arr, 

Ober-Cassel station dep. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, Marschier station arr. 

See ' Dutch Rails ' 



6 — 

8 33 

9 40 



a.m. 

7 50 
9 15 



a.m. 

11 15 
11 53 

1 12 

2 20 



p.m. 

2" 40, 

6 2 

7 45 



Mis. |Th.s.jTh.^. 
23 l"l-|_**20 



Th.s. 

— 'is 



See opposite page. 



1, 2,3 
a.m. 

6 30 

7 16 
7 45 

10 25 
a.m 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

11 — 

12 10 
3 20 
6 12 

p.m i 



1,2,3 
p.m. 
5 15 
5 58 
7 55 
10 20 
p.m. 



fr. c. 


fr. c. 


1 80 


1 35 



fr. c 

— 90 



* Pepinster to Spa, and vice versa. 1 In half-an-hour. 



As to changes in the hours, see • Preface.' 



1 



DUTCH RAILS. 



Eng-. 
Mis. 



Fares. 
1 I 2 
fr. c. fr. c. 



3 

fr. c. 



-From Antwerp- 
" 4 80 

6 40 

7 90 

10 2 



5 9, 

8 — 

9 90 

12 44 

is'Ibo 



15 10 



3 

4 — 
4 95 



9 40 



ANTWERP to AMSTERDAM. 

1,2,3 



Brussels dep. 

Antwerp 

Moordyck (steam) 

Dort (steam) 

Rotterdam (steam) arr. 

(rail) dep. 



6 22 Hague . 



Leyden 

Haarlem 

Amsterdam arr. 



7 

7 52 

8 25 

9 30 
10 — 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



9 30 
10 15 
10 58 
12 
12 30 
p.m 



Trains . 



1,2,3 
a.m 



11 40 

12 20 
12 56 

1 47 

2 35 
p.m. 



1,2,3 ] 
a.m. 

6 20 ] 

7 40 ] 
9 50 

10 40 
12 — 

3 30 

4 23 
4 58 
6 

6 30 ] 
p.m. 



ROTTERDAM and ^AMSTERDAM to COLOaNE. 



Mis. 

33 



I 

Gu.c. 



Gu.c. 
2" 5 



3 

Gu. c, 



Rotterdam dep. 7 ~ 

Utrecht (Junction) arr.l 8 26 



a.m. 

10 — 

11 25 



noon 
12 15 

1 20 



p.m. 

1 30 
3 30 



22 
107 
127 
150 



1 80 



1 40 



90 



Amsterdam dep. 

TJtrecht 

Oberhausen 

Dusseldorf 

Cologne (Deutz) arr. 



a.m. 

7 20 

8 35 

2 — 

3 32 

4 45 
p.m. 



a.m. 

10 20 

11 25 



p.m. 



p.m, 
12 35 
1 20 
5 55 

7 23 

8 45 
p.m. 



p.m. 

2 30 
4 15 



EHINE RAILS. 



Trains. 



|En< 
Mis. 



COLOGNE to MAYENCE. 



1 


2 


3 


th.sg. 


th.sg. 


th.sg. 


— "20 


— 15 


—"10 


1 — 


— 23 


- 15 


2 10 


1 23 


1 5 


2 15 


1 2fi 


1 8 


3 10 


2 15 


1 20 



Cologne.. dep. 

Bonn 

Rolandseck... 



5 20 



.58 2 10 1 23 1 5 Coblenz. 
Gl 2 15 1 2fi 1 8 Stolzenfels [a) 

St. Goar 

84 Bingen (&).... 

104 IMayence .arr. 

(a) Ferry across to Lahn stein. From Lahnstein to Ems, rail, ^ hr. 

48 kr. ; 2nd class, 30 kr. ; 3rd class, 18 kr. 
(b) From Bingerbriick (Bingen) to Kreutznach, rail, h hr. 



1, 2 


1,2,3 


1, 2,3 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


5 10 


6 30 


9 — 


11 45 


5 53 


7 39 


9 49 


12 52 


6 8 


7 55 


10 14 


1 10 


7 10 


9 25 


11 25 


2 25 


7 24 


9 37 


11 3(3 


2 36 


8 3 


10 27 


12 22 


3 22 


9 — 


11 30 


1 25 


4 25 


9 45|12 20 


2 15 


5 25 



Classes. 
1,2,3 
p.m. 

2 — 

3 5 
3 30 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

2 40 

3 40 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

5 20 

6 3 

6 25 

7 40 

7 57 

8 42 

9 40 
10 30 
Fares 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

7 30 

8 33 
8 57 

10 15 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

9 • 
9 45 



-1st class, 



RUDESHEIM and BIEBRICH to WIESBADEN. 

Mis. iFl.kr.jFl.kr. Fl.kr.l I a.m. 

... I ... jRiidesheim dep. 6 20 

18 I 1 301 1 30 Wiesbaden arr.l 7 30 



noon 

12 50 
2 — 



p.m. 

6 10 

7 20 



[iiebrich dep. 

Wiesbaden arr. 



a m. j a.m 

6 50 j 9 15 

7 101 9 35 



noon p.m. 

12 251 3 55 
12 451 4 15 



p.m. 

7 10 
7 30 



p.m. 

9 55 
10 15 



Mis. 



Fl.kr 



— ;!6 

2 42 



Fl.kr. 



- 24 
1 48 



Fl.kr. 



- 18 
1 15 



MAYENCE to FRANKFORT. 



Biebrich dep. 

Wiesbaden dep. 

Castel (Mayence) 

Frankfort arr. 



a.m. 

5 45 

5 45 

6 15 

7 10 



a.m. 
8 — 
8 

8 25 

9 30 



'a.m. 

10 15 
10 15 

10 40 

11 45 



p.m. 

2 15 
2 15 

2 40 

3 45 



p.m. 



6 20 

7 25 



p.m. 

8 35 
8 35 
9 

10 10 



The object of these Tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



DUTCH RAILS. 



Eng-. 
Mis. 



Fares. AMSTERDAM to ANTWERP. 

12 3 1,2,3 
Gu.c. Gu.c. Gu.c. 

Amsterdam dep 

1 70 — 45 Haarlem 

2 40 1 90 1 20 Leyden 

3 10 2 50 1 50 Hag-ue 8 30 

4 20 3 40 2 10 Rotterdam arr. 9 15 

fr. c. fr. c. fr.c. (steam) dep. 10 20 

1 90 1 50 — 95 Dort (steam) 11 

3 90 3 15 1 95 Moordyck (rail) 12 40 

9 90 7 90 4 95 Antwerp 2 50 

Brussels arr. 3 40 

p.m 



Trains. 



1,2, 3 
a.m. 

8 — 

8 35 

9 42 

10 13 

11 — 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 30 

11 12 

12 4 
12 36 

1 20 

2 50 

4 30 

5 40 

7 25 

8 45 
a.m. p.m. p.m 



1,2,3 
p.m 
1 25 
2 

3 4 

3 

4 25 



1,2,3 
p.m. 



6 43 

7 30 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

7 45 

8 20 

9 24 
9 59 

10 45 



p.m. 



COLOGNE to AMSTERDAM and ROTTERDAM. 



Mis. 

23 
43 
128 
150 



1 

Th. s. 



1 — 
1 26 



2 

Th.s. 



— 20 
1 8 



3 

Th.s, 



Cologne (Deutz) dep. 

Diisseldorf. 

Oberhausen 

TTtrecht 

Amsterdam arr. 

Utrecht (Junction) dep. 

Rotterdam arr. 



a.m. 



8 30 

9 35 
a.m. 



6 35 

11 25 

12 35 
noon 



a.m. 

6 30 

7 16 

8 7 

1 15 

2 — 
p.m. 



a.m. 

11 — 

12 10 
1 30 

7 10 

8 20 
p.m. 



p.m. 

4 — 

5 10 

6 30 



ni^ht 



2 70 



2 5 



1 35 



a.m. I a.m. 

6 301 8 35 
8 20 10 — 
a.m. I a.m. 



a.m. 
11 40 
1 — 
p.m 



p.m. 

1 25 

2 35 
p.m. 



p.m 

4 30 
6 30 
p.m 



/ p.m. 

7 20 

8 50 
p.m 





Fares. 


RHINE RAILS. 


Trains. 



En-. 


MAYENCE to COLOGNE. 








Classes 










1 


2 


3 






















Mis. 


Fl.kr 


Fl.kr 


Fl.kr 




1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


1, 2,3 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 












a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


20 


l'*27 


— **54 


~'*36 


Mayence...dep. 






5 35 


8 5 


11 25 


2 20 


On 


5 40 








Bingen [a) 






6 27 


8 52 


12 17 




3 22 


Sun- 


6 27 


27 


— From Bino-en — 


St. Gear 






7 22 


9 45 


1 20 




4 20 


-days 


7 18 


43 


th.s?. 


th.sg. 


th.s?. 


Stolzenfels (b) 






8 10 


10 28 


2 5 




5 5 


^& 


7 58 


46 


1 20 


1 8 


— 25 






6*15 


8 25 


10 45 


2 20 


4 — 


5 20 


fetes 


8 15 


57 


3 — 


2 8 


1 15 


Rolandseck.... 




7 34 


9 34 


11 50 


3 38 


5 17 


6 32 


7 40 


9 20 


87 


3 10 


2 15 


1 20 




6 — 


8 3 


9 58 


12 14 


4 5 


5 46 


7 — 


8 8 


9 44 


104 


4 — 


3 — 


2 — 


Cologne 


7 — 


9 — 


10 45 


1 — 


5 — 


6 45 


8 — 


9 10 


10 30 



(a) From Bingerbriick (Bingen) to Kreutznach, rail, ^ hr. 
{b) Ferry across to Lahnstein. From Lahnstein to Eras, rail, J hr. Fares — 1 cl., 48 kr. ; 2 
cl., 30 kr. ; 3 cl., 18 kr. 



WIESBADEN to RUDESHEIM and BIEBRICH. 



Mis. 


Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


Ts 


1**30 


1 *— 


— '30 




Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


* 3 


— 18 


— **12 


— **9 


Mis. 


Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


Fl.kr. 


20 


2***6 


1**27 


1**— 


26 


2 42 


1 48 


1 15 


24 


2 30 


1 45 


1 12 



Wiesbaden dep. 

Kiidesheim arr. 

Wiesbaden dep. 

Biebrich arr. 



a.m. 

■7 55 
9 5 



p.m. 

2 51 
4 t 



p.m. 

7 45 

8 55 



a.m. 

5 45 

6 5 



a.m. 

10 15 
10 35 



p.m. 

2 15 
2 35 



p.m. 

8 35 
8 55 



FRANKFORT to MAYENCE. 



Frankfort dep. 

Castel (Mayence) 

Wiesbaden arr. 

Biebrich arr. 



a.m. 

8 — 

9 15 
9 35 
9 35 



a.m. 

10 15 

11 — 



a.m. 

11 15 

12 25 
12 45 
12 45 



p m. 

2 45 

3 55 

4 15 
4 15 



p.m. 

6 — 

7 10 
7 30 
7 30 



p.m. 

8 45 

9 55 
10 15 
10 15 



As to changes in the hours, see • Preface.* 



lii 



RHINE RAILS. 



En?. 
Mli. 

2*8 
41 

122 
172 
417 



1 

FLkr. 



2 — 

3 — 



9 7 
h"42 



2 

Fl.kr. 



1 12 

1 48 



5 3G 
25** 3 



3 

Fl.kr. 



— 48 
1 12 



3 41 



JttAYENCE to ISIANNHEIM, 

the Moselle, and Paris. 

Mayence d€p. 

Worms 

Mannheim (Ludwigshafen) 

dep. 5 40 

Saarbriicken 10 

Metz (See ' Moselle line ') 12 24 

Paris (See * French Rails ')arr. 10 20 
a.m, 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

6 10 

7 30 

8 10 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

8 50 
10 12 
10 52 



Trains. 



Ex 
a.m, 
11 50 
15 58 
1 30 
1 40 
5 7 
7 30 
5 15 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

2 10 

3 37 

4 17 



1, 2,3 
p.m. 

6 50 
8 15 



Mis. 



Fl.kr. 



1 6 

3 30 
3 33 



Fl.kr. 



- 42 

2 21 
2 21 



Fl.kr, 



- 30 
1 33 
1 33 



FRANKFORT to MANNHEIM. 

and Heidelberg^. 

Mayence (see before). 
Frankfort, Neckar stat dep. 



Darmstadt 

Mannheim, Baden stat arr. 

Heidelber? arr. 



6 5 

7 — 
9 — 
9 — 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



9 

1 20 
1 20 
p.m 



Ex. 
a.m. 

10 10 

11 — 

12 35 
12 22 
noon 



1,2,3 
noon 

12 35 
1 30 
3 50 
3 40 

p.m 



1, 2, 3 
p.m. 

4 40 

5 35 
7 40 
7 35 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

9 — 
9 50 



p.m. 



Mis. 
'i'l 



90 
128 
169 



Fl.kr. 



— 48 
2 9 

3 

4 24 

5 42 

6 — 
8 36 

11 9 



Fl.kr. 

33 



— 33 

1 27 

2 3 

3 — 

3 54 

4 6 

5 51 
7 36 



Fl.kr. 
-"*21 

- 21 

— 57 

1 18 

1 54 

2 30 

2 39 

3 45 

4 51 



34 



2 IS 



1 — 



MANNHEIM to BASLE. 

Basle to Zurich, 

Mannheim, Baden stat dep. 

Heidelberg arr. 

Frankfort (above) dep. 

Heidelberg" arr. 

Heidelberg dep. 

Bruchsal 

For Friedrichshafen (1) 

Carlsruhe 

Oos, for Baden-Baden (2) 

Appenweier 

For Strasbourg' (3) 

OfFenburg {Buffet) 

Freiburg 

Basle, Baden stat arr. 

,, ,, dep. 

Waldshut 

ZijRiCH {Buffet) arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



6 
7 

8 15 

8 40 
11 lo 
2 30 
2 40 

4 10 

5 42 
p.m 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

5 15 
5 56 



a.m. 

6 — 

8 11 

9 50 
a.m, 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

8 20 

9 1 
6 10 
9 5 
9 13 

10 10 

11 — 

12 14 
1 20 

1 40 
4 — 
6 16 



Ex. 
noon 
12 
12 38 
10 20 
12 22 
12 40 

1 18 

1 52 

2 43 

3 28 

3 35 

5 

6 35 
6 55 

8 24 

9 45 
p.m 



1,2,3 
p.m 

3 10 
3 46 
12 35 
3 40 
4 
5 — 



7 9 

8 18 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

7 — 
7 36 
4 40 
7 35 

7 46 

8 46 ' 

9 35 , 
p.m. 



a.m. 

10 45 
12 3S 
2 

p.m. 



a.m. 

6 ; 

9 30 I 



a.m. 



Mis. 



47 
103 

166 



Fl.kr. 

1**18 

2 12 

3 6 
6 51 

11 6 



Fl.kr. 

— 51 

1 2 

2 - 
4 24 
7 1 



Fl.kr. 

— '33 
1 — 

1 21 

2 5 
4 54 



(1) Bruchsal to Friedrichshapex. 

Brnchsal (above) dep. 5 10 

Miihlacker, for Wildbad 6 54 

Bietigheim, for Heilbronn * 

Stuttgart 

Ulra [Buffet) 

Friedrichshafen arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



5 15 
9 25 
1 5 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

8 — 

9 4 
9 45 

11 10 
3 20 
6 45 

p.m 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 45 

11 49 

12 30 
2 20 



p.m. 



Ex. 
p.m. 

1 3; 

2 li 

2 4; 

3 3J 
6 li 
9 4i 



p.m. 



1,2, 3 
p.m. ! 

5 3o 

6 34 

7 16 

8 45 ' 



p. m. 



33 



* Bietigheim to Heilbronn, and vice versa. Trains, in 1 hr. 



— 21 



12 



Oos TO Baden-Badex, and vice versa. Trains, in 10 min. 



Mis. 

8 
12 
341 



Fl.kr, 
—"30 
25***12 



Fl.kr, 
— "21 
19**12 



Fl.kr. i^) Appexweier to Strasbouro. 

Appenweier (above) dep. 8 4 

Kehl 9 10 

Strasbourg (l^y Omnibus) 11 — 

On to Paris arr. 10 — 

See ' French Kails.' p.m. 



a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


10 44 


1 34 


3 38 


5 40 


U 2 


2 — 


3 57 


6 6 


12 45 




5 35 


7 40 


4 — 




5 — 


10 30 


a.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 



p.m. 

8 18 
8 44 



The object of these Tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



EHINE RAILS. 



liii 



lEng". 
Mis. 

24^5 
295 
376 

389 
417 



1 

Fl.kr. 



Fares. 
2 

Fl.kr. 



1 — 

3 — 



Fl. 



Paris, the Moselle, and 
MANNHEIM to MAYENCE. 

Paris fSee ' French Rails') dep. 

Metz (See * Moselle line ') 

Saarbrlicken 

Mannheim (LudAvigshafen) 

„ „ dep. 

Worms 

Mayence arr. 



6 50 

7 80 

8 50 
a.m. 



1,2.3 
a.m. 



5 30 
10 — 
10 10 
10 53 
12 .30 
noon 



I Ex. 
p.m. 

8 — 
5 20 
8 8 

II 25 

11 35 

12 6 
1 10 

p.m. 



Teains, 



1,2,3 
p.m. 



4 — 
4 43 
6 10 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 



7 — 
7 48 
9 15 
p.m. 



1.2,3 
p.m 

11 15 

12 45 
4 10 
9 15 



p.m. 



Mis. 



55 



Fl.kr. 



2 27, 

3 33 



Fl.kr. 



1 39 

2 21 



Fl.kr. 



1 6 
1 33 



Heidelberg and 
MANNHEIM to FRANKFORT. 

Heidelberg' dep. 

Mannheim dep, 

Darmstadt 5 30 

Frankfort, Neckar stat arr. 6 5 

Mayence (See before). a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

7 23 
7 20 
9 25 
10 10 
a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 

10 55 

11 — 

1 10 

2 — 
p.m. 



Ex. 
p.m. 

2 — 
1 55 

3 35 

4 10 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
p.m. 

2 10 
1 55 

6 10 

7 — 
p.m 



1,2,3 
p.m 

6 35 
6 3i 
9 - 
9 50 
p.m. 



Mis. 



104 
124 
137 

158 

2li 

169 



Fl.kr. 



2 33 
5 9 
5 27 

7 51 

8 9 

9 — 

10 24 
13*57 
11**9 



Fl.kr. 



Fl.kr. 



1 45 
3 

3 45 

5 21 

5 33 

6 9 

7 6 
9**27 
7*36 



4 33 
6***6 
4**51 



Ziirich io Basle. 

BASLE to MANNHEIM. 

ZilRiCH {Buffet) dep. 

Waldshut 

Basle, Baden stat arr. 

,, ,, dep. 

Freiburg 

Offenburg {Buffet) 

Appenweier 

For Strasbourg (3) 

Oos for Baden-Baden (2) 

Carlsruhe' , 

Bruchsal 

For Friedrichshafen (1) 
Heidelberg arr. 

Heidelberg dep. 

Frankfort (above) arr. 

Heidelberg dep. 

Mannheim, Baden stat. .arr. 



1,2,3 
a.m*. 



6 


15 


6 


36 


7 


48 


8 


50 


9 


50 


10 


36 


11 




2 




10 


55 


11 


21 


a.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m 



9 10 
9 39 

11 — 

11 30 

12 12 

12 55 



I 30 
p.m, 



Ex. 
a.m. 

5 40 

7 — 

8 21 
8 30 

10 5 
10 29 

10 44 

11 29 

12 25 
12 54 

1 37 

2 — 
4 10 

1 50 

2 13 
p.m. 



1,2,3 
a.m. 



9 50 
12 21 
2 5 

2 33 

3 27 

4 40 

5 19 

6 15 

6 35 
9 50 

6 28 

7 — 



1,2,3 


1,2,3 


a.m. 


p.m. 


10 10 


1 30 


11 35 


3 25 


1 24 


5 21 


2 15 


6 — 


4 26 


8 14 


7 — 


p.m. 


7 16 


8 30 


a.m. 


9 35 


5 40 



p.m. 


p.m. 


1,2,3 


1,2,3 


p.m. 


a.m. 


10 15 




2 10 


2***8 


5 50 


3 7 


6 45 


4 2 


7 42 


4 55 


8 37 


p.m. 


p.m. 



6 16 

7 21 
7 30 

10 15 

7 35 

8 6 
a.m . 



Mis. 

*63 

119 
133 
146 
166 



Fl.kr. 

4*15 

8 — 

8 45 

9 48 
11 6 



Fl.kr. 

2*51 

5 15 

5 43 

6 24 

7 15 



Fl.kr. 

1 57 

3 33 

3 52 

4 21 
4 54 



(1) Feiedrichshafejt to Bruchsal. 

Friedrichshafen dep. ... 

mm {Buffet).,, 

Stuttgart 6 55 

Bietigheim, for Heilbronn * 7 50 

Muhlacker, for Wildbad 8 46 

Bruchsal (above) arr. 9 40 



1, 2, 3 
a.m. 

5**30 

9 20 

10 20 

11 28 

12 25 
noon 



Ex. 
a.m. 

5 ~ 
8 35 
11 — 

11 36 

12 12 
12 49 
noon 



1, 2,3 
p.m 

2 10 
6 — 
9 28 



p.m. 



17 



* Heilbronn to Bietigheim, and vice versa. Trains, in 1 hr. 



— 21 



15 



12 



Baden-Baden to Oos, and vice versa. Trains, in 10 min. 



Mis. 



Fl.kr. 



Fl.kr. 



Fl.kr. 



— 12 



(3) Strasbourg- to Appenweier. 

From Paris dep. 

See * French Rails.' 

Strasbourg (Omnibus) dep. 

Kehl (Rail) 

Appenweier (above) arr. 



a.m. 

6 10 
8 10 
8 39 



p.m. 


p.m. 




p.m. 


8 — 


9 — 




11 15 


a.m. 


a.m. 


noon 


p.m. 


8 15 


11 15 


12 40 


3 30 


10 15 


1 — 


2 40 


5 5 


10 36 


1 29 


3 9 


5 34 



p.m 

5 20 
7 20 
7 49 



As to changes in the hours, see * Preface.* 



li 



SWISS RAILS. 



GEXEEAL IXFOEMATIOX. 

Money. Francs and centimes as in France. 1 franc =9^(i. lOJ centiraes=l(^. 
Luggage. Packages in the hand, free. All else to be paid for. 
II Trains marked thus are 1*^ and 'ind class, Ej:press. 3rd class carriages are attached 

to all others. 

Local information. — In Basle. Omnibuses from Swiss and Paris rails— to the Hotels, 
I/O c. ; to the Baden rail, 1 fr. Omnib. from Baden rail— to tlie Hotels, 50 c. ; to Swiss! 
and Paris rails, 1 fr.; lug. inc.* Cabs, 1 horse, from rails to Hotels, 1^ fr. ; per hour, 2 
fr. ; lug. ex.t— In Berne. Omnib. from rail to Hotels, 30 c. ; lug. ex.t Cabs, 1 horse.i 
iper course, 1 or 2 persons, 40 c. ; 3 or 4 pers., 80 c. ; lujj. ex.t iContimied on opposite page. 
\ * t See opposite page. 







11 


Trains. 






a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. ! 




5 40 


10 25 


1 35 


2 40 


5 — 


7 so: 






11 23 


2 55 


4 5 


6 20 


9 10 




7 18 


11 41 


3 — 


4 40 


6 38 


9 30i 


5 — 


7 40 


12 10 


3 43 




7 10 


1 


8 — 


10 2 


1 50 


5 46 




9 — 




8 15 


a.m. 


2 30 


p.m. 








n 45 


a.m. 


6 — 


p.m. 








1 45 p.m. 


10 30 










1 — 


p.m. 


9 15 


u m 
Ji: — L_ 








a.m. 


a.m. 


|j 

a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 




5 40 


10 25 


1 35 


2 40 




7 30 




7 18 


11 41 




4 40 


6 38 


9 30, 




7 40 


12 10 


3 43 




7 10 




5*25 


8 33 


12 55 


4 32 




8 4 






6 


10 45 


2 40 






6*55 




8 11 


12 38 


4 10 






8 24; 


h\l 


8 55 


1 10 


4 49 




8 "22 


9 — 


6 12 


9 3 


1 19 


4 58 




8 33 


9 ^ 
9 45 


7 15 


9 50 


2 — 


5 42 




9 17 


p.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


11 

a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


( 

p.m. i' 


7 30 




5 40 


10 25 


2 40 


5 — 


9 30 




7 IS 


11 41 




4 40 


6 38" 




5" — 


7 45 


12 10 


12 20 


4 55 


7 15 


a.m. 


6 2 


8 47 


12 51 


2 34 


5 55 


8 9i 




6 17 


8 58 


1 — 


2 45 


6 10 


8 20i 




7 53 


10 26 


2 — 


4 15 


7 38 


9 Sfji 


6 "32 




10 50 


2 15 




8 — 




7 29 




11 54 


3 13 


... 


9 12 




a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


11 

a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m.. 






5 40 10 25 


1 35 


5 —\ 




5 — 


7 45 


12 10 


12 '20 


3 48 


7 lo 




6 25 


8 54 


12 59 


3 5 


4 57 


8 20 




6 54 


9 22 


1 20 


4 20 


5 26 


8 53 




7 34 


10 — 


1 54 


5 45 


6 6 


9 40 




9 35 


11 57 


4 — 




8 2 




6 — 


9 45 


12 10 


4 15 


4 50 


8 12 




7 25 


10 59 


1 30 


5 15 


G 15 


9 32 




8 7 




2 13 




6 58 


10 12 


a.m. 


8 40 


12 — 


2 45 


6 15 


7 30 


10 37 


7 — ; 


9 6 


12 21 


3 10 


6 34 


7 55 




7 25 


9 34 


12 47 


3 37 


6 56 


8 23 




7 b% 


9 58 


1 6 


3 56 


7 14 


8 45 




8 IG; 


10 9 




4 5 




8 55 




8 26^ 


10 19 


l'23 


4 14 




9 — 




8 35- 


10 50 


1 47 


4 40 


7 '43 


9 35 




9 — 



Eng, 
Mis. 

20 

25 
59 



1 

fr. c. 

3 20 

4 5 

9 85 



Fakes. 
2 

fr. c. 

2 

2 85 
6 9, 



3 

fr. c. 

1 60 

2 5 
5 — 



To Italy. 



25 


4 5 


2 85 


2 5 


42 


6 95 


4 90 


3 50 


46 


7 95 


5 60 


4 — 


51 


8 45 


5 95 


4 25 


67 


10 75 


7 55 


5 40 



BASLE to LUCERNE. 

Basle, Zentralbahn...dep. 
Laufelfingen. (T.8000 ft.) 

Olten, June. Buffet { 

Lucerne arr. 

^ Lucerne, steam. .dep. 
Milan, next day. .arr. 

Genoa, ditto 

Turin, ditto, 



BASLE to ZTJSICH. 

Basle, Zentralbahn ..dep. 
Olten, see above .... J^gp 

(T. 1.550 ft.) Schinznach.. 
Basle, Baden st.,dep, 
IValdshut, p. lii 

Tnrgi Junction 

Baden (Swiss) 

Zurich, Buffet arr. 



From Basle, 



BASLE to BERNE and THTTN. 

Basle, Zentralbahn. ..dep. 
Olten, see above | 

Herzogenbuchsee J. | 

Berne ^^^^ 

Thun arr. 



6 


5 


4 90| 


3 50 


11 


10 


7 801 


5 60 



45 

70 

— From Berne — 
16 I 3 15 I 2 20 I 1 60 



From Basle 



BASLE to BIENNE and GENEVA. 

Basle, above dep 

Olten, above dep. 

Herzogenbuchsee J.. .dep. 

4 25 Soleure 

5 50 BiENNE (a) ^ 

Neuchatel {^^ 

Yverdon 

(2T.each 820 ft.)Cossonay 

11 60 Lau.sanne 

Merges {b) 

Rolle 

Nyon 

Celigny 

Coppet 

14 5 Geneva arr. 

(a) From Bienne to Yverdon, STEAM also, in ih hrs. Fares — 1st place, 7 fr. ; 2nd pi., 4 fr, 
fbj From Morges to Geneva, Stkam also, in 2 hrs. Fares (variable)— 1st place, 4 fr. ; 2nd pi., 2 fr. 



54 


8 45 


5 95 


70 


10 90 


7 70 


89 
112 






130 






139 


22 15 


17**55 


147 






155 






162 






166 






169 
177 


27*" 5 


21*20 



Tlie object of these tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



SWISS RAILS. 



-! Information continued from opposite page.] — In Lucerne, Thun, Bienne, etc. Omnib. 
;rom rail to Hotels, J fr., lug. ex.t ; 1 fr., lug. inc.*-In Zurich. Omnib. from rail to Hotels, 
ioc. ; lug. ex.t — In Geneva, liailway-omnibus, per course, 30 c, lug. ex.t Hotel-oni- 
nib., 1 fr., lug. inc.* Cabs, 1 iiorse, 3 fr. (2 hor., 5 fr.) the 1st hour ; 2 fr. the 2nd hour. 

Abbreviations, &c. — J. or June, means * Junction.'— Z?. or Buf. ' buffet ' refreshments).— iS^. 
I ' station.'— T. ' tunnel' (it stands before or after a station according to fact). 

* Lug. inc. means luggage included. 
t Lug. ex. means luggage extra, Yiz. — box, 20 c. ; bag, 15 c; hat-box, lO^c, (all luggage in the 

hand free.) 



Eng. 
Mis. 



PARES 
2 



From Lucerne 



4 10 

4 70 

6 95 



2 95 

3 40 
5 — 



From Italy 



LUCEENE to BASLE. 

( Milan 
Genoa 
Turin 

Lucerne, next day 



Lucerne dep. 

Olten, Junction, c arr. 

Buffet. I. ....del). 
(T. 8000 ft.)Laufe]fingen. 
Basle, Zentraibahn ..arr. 



a.m. 



5 20 
5 52 
7 22 



a.m. 

5 — 
7 15 

7 45 

8 8 

9 20 



dep. 
, dep. 
. dep. 
. arr, 
a.m. 



10 30 

11 2 

12 35 



5 15 

3 30 
5 40 
9 30 

a.m. 

1011- 

11 89 

12 15 
12 38 

1 35 



p.m. 
am. 
a.m. 
p.m. 
p.m. 
4 40 

6 42 

7 15 

7 38 

8 51 



6 5 
8 16 



2 50 


1 


75 


1 25 


3 — 


2 


10 


1 60 


5 25 


3 


70 


2 65 


10 75 


7 


45 


5 25 


4 — 


2 


80 


2 — 


6 70 


4 


70 


3 35 


10 75 


7 


55 


5 40 



ZURICH to BASLE. 

Zurich, Buffet dep. 

Baden (Swiss) 

Turgi Junction 

Waldshut, p. liii 

Basle Baden St., arr. 
Schinznach.(T.1550 ft.)... 

Olten, see above •••{(fj^' 
Basle, Zentralbabn... arr. 



5 15 

5 58 

6 6 



6 25 

7 24 

7 45 
9 20 



a.m. 

5 40 

6 12 

6 19 

7 — 

8 21 



a.m. 

7 40 

8 42 
8 53 



a.m. 

5 52 
7 22 



a.m. 

10 10 
10 46 

10 52 

11 35 
1 24 

11 8 

11 53 

12 15 
1 35 



p.m. 



'p.m. 

4 36 

5 23 

5 32 

6 10 
8 26 
5 51 
G 46 

7 15 

8 51 



THUN and BEEHE to BASLE. 

Thun 

Berne 

Herzogenbuchsee J. 



16 1 3 15 


2" 20 


1 


*G0 


— From 


Berne 






25 4 15 


2 90 


2 


10 


45 7 6 


4 95 


3 


55 


70 11 10 


7 80 


5 


60 





a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 








5 


20 


8 


40 






2 43 


arr. 






6 


32 


9 


37 






3 47 




dep. 


5 




7 




10 




11 


20 


4 15 


6*25 


arr. 


6 


17 


8 


28 


10 


58 


12 


48 


5 43 


7 55 


dep. 


6 


26 


8 


47 


11 


5 


2 


34 


5 55 


8 9 


arr. 


7 


20 


9 


58 


11 


45 


3 


24 


6 53 


9 9 


dep. 


7 


45 






12 


15 


3 


45 


7 15 




..arr. 


9 


20 






1 


35 


5 


20 


8 51 





a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 






6 


30 


8 




10 — 


2 5 


5 20 






6 


59 






10 33 


2 34 


5 53 






7 


6 






10 41 


2 42 


6 — 






7 


15 


8 


26 


10 51 


2 52 


6 11 






7 


36 


8 


42 


11 13 


3 15 


6 34 






8 


3 


9 


3 


11 40 


3 44 


7 7 


5 


25 


8 


30 


9 


25 


12 10 


4 12 


7 40 


5 


51 


8 


54 






12 38 


4 38 


8 4 


6 


29 


9 


29 


10 


12 


1 17 


5 17 


8 42 


7 


45 


10 


43 


11 


15 


2 34 


6 41 


10 2 


7 


55 






11 


25 


2 39 


6 50 




9 


30 


a.m. 


12 


55 


4 14 


8 40 


a.m. 


10 




5 




1 


15 


4 40 




5 30 


10 


38 


5 


42 


1 


54 


5 28 




7 25 


10 


57 


6 


8 


2 


19 


5 49 


a.m.' 


8 15 


11 


45 




20 




24 


6 53 


5 52 11 2 


1 


35 


9 


20 


5 


20 


8 51 


7 22 12 35 



GENEVA and BIENNE to BASLE. 

Geneva (a) dep, 

Coppet , 

Ceiigny : , 

Nyon 

Rolle 

Merges 

■ Lausanne 

Cossonay. (2T.each820ft.) 
Yverdon {b) 

Neuchatel {^^Jj^; 

Bienne c arr. 

C dep. 

Soleure 

Herzogenh.J. (above) arr. 

Oiten, above 

Basle, above 



8 

U 








15 








22 








30 








38 


4*90 


3*65 


2* 45 


47 








65 








68 


12 35 


9 80 


6 45 


107 


16 15 


13 50 


8 55 




— From Bienne — 


123 


12 45 


1 75 


1 25 


132 


3 95 


2 80 


2 — 


152 


6 85 


4 85 


3 45 


177 


1,0 90 


7 70 


5 50 



p.m. 

6 3n 

7 21 
7 52 



(o) [From Geneva to 3Iorges, STEAM also, in 2 hrs. Fares (variable) — 1st place, 4 fr. ; 2nd pi., 2 fr. 
(6) From Yverdon to Bienne, STEAM also, in 4i hrs. Fares — 1st place, 7 fr. ; 2nd pi., 4 fr. 



As to subsequent changes in the hours, see • Preface.' 



Ivi 



SWISS RAILS. 



For General and Local Information, etc., see head of preceding pages. 


Eng. 
Mis. 


Fares. 

112 13 
fr. c. I fr. c. ' fr. c. 


GENEVA to LYONS, 

PxKis AND Marseilles. 
See 'French Rails,' p.xlvii. 


Trains. 

M 1 1 I 1 



ZURICH to RAPPERSCHWYL, GLARUS, RAGATZ, COIRE. 



From Ziirich 



6 


1 






70 


— 50 


U 


2 


30 


1 


60 


1 15 


34 


4 


70 


3 


25 


2 35 


42 


6 




4 


20 


3 — 


52 


7 


50 


5 


25 


3 75 


ei* 


8 


80 


6 


15 


4*40 


52 


7 


50 


5 


2" 


3 75 


64 


9 


50 


6 


55 


4 75 


73 


10 


90 


7 


65 


5 45 


77 


11 


50 


8 


5 


5 75 


89 


13 


70 


9 


55 


6 85 



Zurich, Buffet (a) ...dep. 
(T.3300ft.) Wallisellen J. 
Uster 



Rapperschwyl {^^^^ 



Utznach.. 
VVesen Junction .... 







Glarus {h).. .. 


arr. 



Glarus {b) dep. 

Wesen Junction. arr. 



(T.) Wallenstadt.., 
Sarf^ans Junction.. 



rarr. 

tdep. ... 6 30 

Ragatz 6 44 

Coire arr. ... 7 35 

To Milan, Genoa, Turin, see below, 3ro. 19. 
(a) From Ziirich to Rapperschwyl, Steam also, in 1| hr. Fares — 1st place, 1 fr. 80 c. ; 

At Rapperschwyl, Luggage between Steamers and Rail conveyed free of 
(6) From Glarus to Stachelberg, and vice versa, Diligences, twice a day. In 2 hrs. 



a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


5 10 


8 55 


21110 


4 45 


6 15 


5 29 


9 20 


2 24 


5 7 


6 35 


5 55 


9 46 


2 44 


5 34 


7 4 


6 35 


10 38 


3 20 


6 22 


8 — 


6 45 


10 52 


3 30 


6 37 


8 20 


7 9 


11 24 


3 49 


7 5 


8 43 


7 40 


12 — 


4 15 


7 38 


9 15 


8~5 


12 30 


4 35 


8^ 


9 20 


8 32 


1 12 


5 3 


8 25 


9 45 


6 40 


11 35 


3 45 


6^0 




7 7 


12 — 


4 — 


7 — 




r52 


12 20 


4 25 


7 50 




8 32 


1 12 


5 — 


8 30 




8 58 


1 45 


5 26 


9 — 




9 10 


2 — 


5 35 


9 5 




9 23 


2 13 


5 48 


9 15 




10 — 


3 — 


6 26 


10 — 





2nd pi., 
charge. 
Fare—] 



1 fr. 20 c. 
fr. 95 c. 



6 
18 


From Zuricl 

1 — |— Yo 

2 751 1 95 


1 

— 50 
1 40 


COIRE. 

ZijRiCH, Buffet (a). ...dep. 
(T.3300 ft.) Wallisellen J. 
"Winterthur J. Buffet, ^rr. 


a.m. 


a m. 

5 50 

6 8 
6 40 


a.m. 

7 35 

7 52 

8 25 


a m. 

101135 

10 4S 

11 15 


p.m. 

2 25 

2 42 

3 15 


p m. 

6 — 

6 27 

7 12 


p.m. 

7 50 

8 15 

9 — 


32 
35 


5*50 
6 — 


3**86 

4 20 


2**75 

3 — 


Winterthur (above).. ..dep. 

Dachsen 

(T. 200 ft. & Rhine-Falls) 






8 37 

9 35 

9 47 


11 25 

12 11 

12 19 


3 32 

4 29 

4 40 


7 33 

8 31 

8 43 





iWinterthur (above). ..dep. [ 
4 401 RoMANSHORN (6) ...arr. I 



6 45 
8 32 



11 211 3 24 

12 45 5 16 



7 27 

9 58 



55 I 8 85! 6 25] 4 
From St. Gallen 



1 80 
4 40 
6 70 



9 40 

11 60 



1 25 

3 5 

4 65 

6 15 

6 55 



45 



To Italy 



Winterthur (above). ..dep. 
St. Gallen 

Rorschach (c)... {^gp* 

Altstatten 

Haag 

Sargans June... J ^^J^* 

Ragatz 

Coire arr. 

Coiro, diligence dep. 

Mihm, next day arr. 

Genoa, ditto 

Turin, ditto 



2 20 

3 35 

4 40 



5 — 

5 33 
5 50 

7 10 

8 — 

8 50 

9 10 
9 23 

10 — 
10 30 
8 45 ■ 
1 45 
1 — 



6 50 
9 25 
10 — 
10 55 
12 3 
12 51 

1 40 

2 — 

2 13 

3 — 
a.m. 
a.m. 
p.m. 
p.m. 



11 30 
2 — 
2 34 
2 55 
4 
4 
5 



7 30 
9 52 
10 24 



a.m 

7 30 

8 5 



10 30 
9 15 



9 15 
10 — 
p.m. 
p.ra 
p.m. 
p.m. 



a.m 
6 30 

6 44 

7 35 



(a J From Zurich to Sargans, direct and shorter rail by Wesen, see above, IXo. IX- 
(b) From Romanshokn : Steamers on Lake of Constance— To Friedrichshaftn, p. liii. (for Stuttgart 
and Frankfort rails), 3 times a-day, in I hr. ; 1st pi., I fr. 25c.; 2nd pi., 85 c.—To Lindaii (for Munich 
ind Leipzig rails), 3 times a-day, in li lir. ; 1st pi., 2 fr. 50 c. ; 2nd pl., 1 fr. 70 c.—To Bregcm (for the 
Tyrol), twice a-day, in 11 hr. ; 1st pl., 3 fr. 25c. ; 2nd pl., 2 fr. 25 c. — To Constance and Schaffhauseti, 
twice a day.— To Rorschach, twice a-day. 
{c/ To AND FROM RORSCHACH : Steamert on Lake of Constance, see opposite page. 



The object of these tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



SWISS RAILS. 



Ivii' 





For General and Local Information, etc., see head of preceding pa 


ges. 


Eng. 
Mis. 


Fares. 

112 13 
fr. c. 1 fr. c. i fr. c. 


Paris, Marseilles, and 
LYONS to GENEVA. 

See 'French Rails,' p.xlvi. 


Trains. 



10 



COIRE, RAGATZ, GLARTJS, RAPPERSCHWYL to ZURICH. 

From Milan, Genoa, Turin, see below, Bfio. 14:. 



From Coire. 



12 


2 


30 


1 


60 


1 


15 


16 


0 


80 




on 






25 


4 


30 


3 




2 


15 


37 


6 


20 


4 


30 


3 


10 


46 


7 


50 


5 


20 


3 


75 


37 


6 


20 


4 


30 


3 


10 


47 


7 


80 


5 


45 


3 


90 


55 


9 




6 


30 


4 


50 


75 


11 


40 


8 




5 


70 


83 


12 


70 


8 


85 


6 


35 


89 


13 


70 


9 


55 


6 


85 



Coire dep 

Ragatz 

Sar gang Junction .. . . | 

Wallenstadt (T.) '. 

Wesen Junction arr. 



Wesen J dep. 

Grlarus (a) arr. 



Glarus dep. 

Wesen Junction... arr. 



Rapperschwyl (6).. 



Wesen J dep, 

Utznach 

carr. 
I dep. 

Uster 

Wallisellen Jn. (T.3300 ft.) 
ZiiRicH, Buffet arr. 

(a) From Glarus to Stachelherg, and vice versa, Diligencps, twice a clay. In 2 hrs. 
{b) From Rapperschwyl to Zurich, Steam also, in U hr. Farts— \?,t place, 1 fr. 



a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 






5 — 


8 — 


11 15 


1 — 


5 — 






5 37 


8 46 


12 4 


1 42 


5 45 






5 45 


8 56 


12 15 


1 50 


5 55 






5 50 


9 5 


12 40 





6 5 






6 21 


9 33 


1 17 




6 34 






7 5 


10 15 


2 H 




7 15 






8 5 


10 40 


2 55 




8 — 






8 32 


11 7 


3 25 




8 25 




4 45 


6 40 


9 45 


2 — 




6 40 




5 10 


7 7 


10 10 


2 30 




7 — 




5 15 


7 20 


10 30 


2 45 




7 25 




5 34 


7 49 


11 5 


3 33 




7 56 




6 20 


8 10 


11 25 


4 10 




8 20 




6 35 


8 23 


11 35 


4 35 




8 30 




7 24 


9 6 


12 20 


5 42 




9 14 




7 50 


9 23 


12 41 


6 16 




9 38 




8 6 


9 39 


12 55 


6 35 




9 55 



12 



Fare — 1 fr, 
.2nd pi., 1 fr. 

At Kapperschwyl, Lxiggage between Rail and Steamers conveyed free of charge. 



95 c. 
20 c. 



COIRE, RAGATZ, ST. GALLEN, ROMANSHORN, SCHAFFHAUSEN, 
to ZURICH. 



From Italy 



From Coire 



13 


2 30 


1 60 


1 15 


17 


2 80 


1 95 


1 40 


30 " 


5 — 


3 50 


2 50 


43 


7 20 


5 — 


3 60 


59 


9 80 


6 85 


4 90 


69 


11 50 


8 5 


5 75 


106 


17 70 


12 35 


8 85 



/ Turin dep 

f Genoa dep. 

\ Milan dep. 

( Coire, next day arr. 



Coire dep. 

Eagatz 

Sargans Junc.(a) {^J^^ 

Haag 

Altstatten 

Rorschach lb) ... { ^J^; 

St. Gallen 

Winterthur (below) ...arr. 



5 35 

6 5 
2 30 

4 •— 

p.m. 

5 — 
5 45 

5 55 

6 12 

6 56 

7 39 

8 35 

8 50 

9 35 



p.m. 
p.m. 
a.m. 



5 35 

6 20 

8 20 



5 40 
5 45 
5 45 
4 15 

a.m. 



5 37 
5 45 

5 53 

6 32 

7 12 

8 10 

8 30 

9 55 
12 12 



p.m. 
p m. 
a.m. 
a.m. 
a.m. 
8 — 
8 46 

8 56 

9 15 

10 7 

11 2 

12 8 
12 27 

1 20 
3 20 




14 



From Rom an shorn 
37 I 6 — I 4 20 I 3 — 



RoMANSHORN (c) ....dep. 
Winterthur (below). ..arr. 



5 25 
8 23 



10 20 
12 15 



3 24 



5 32 
7 27 



16 



18 



20 



22 



From Schalfhausen 



3 — 50 — 35 — 25 
17 I 3 25 2 25 1 60 



SCHAFFHAUSEK dep. 

(Rhine-Falls&T. 200ft.) 

Dachsen 

Winterthur ( be! o w ) . . . arr . 



7 15 



7 2^ 

8 21 



2 22 

2 31 

3 16 p.m. 



6 18 

7 18 



From Winterthur. 
12 I 2 —I 1 401 1 — 
18 2 75| 1 95 1 40 



Winterthur J.,Buf.. dep. 
WalliseUen J. (T.3300 ft.) 
Zurich, Buffet arr. 



5 22 

6 10 
6 32 



8 35 

9 9 
9 25 



11 15 12 2.3 

12 2 12 57 
12 25! 1 13 



3 30 

3 57 

4 10 



5 20 

6 16 
6 35 



7 38 

8 13 
8 30 



{a) From Sargans to ZUrich, direct and shorter rail 6y Wesen, see above, ISTo 12. 

(6) From Rorschach: Steamers on Lake of Constance. — ToLindau (for Munich and Leipzig rails), 
5 times a-day, in 1 hr. ; 1st pi., 1 fr. 70 c; 2nd pi., 1 fr. 10 c— To Friedrichshafen, p. liii. (for the Stuttgart 
and Frankfort rails), 4 times a-day, in U hr. ; 1st pi., 2 fr. 10 c. ; 2nd pi., 1 fr. 40 c—To Bregenz (for 
the Tyrol,) 3 times a-day, in 1 hr. ; Ist pi., 2 fr. 10 c. ; 2nd pi., 1 fr. 40 c—To Jlomanskorn, Comtance, 
and Sihaffhatisen, twice a-day. 

(c) To AND FROM ROMANSHORN : Steamers on Lake of Constance, soe opposite paj?p. 



As to changes in the hours, see ' Preface.' 



Iviii 



SWISS RAILS. 



'3. 



For General and Local Information, etc., see head of preceding pages. 



Fares. 







1 


'2 


3 


23 


Mis. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 



GENEVA, BIENNE, to BESNE. 

Geneva, Bienne, to > ^ -kt c 



Trains. 



GENEVA, BIENNE, THUN, BEENE, ZURICH, to LUCSENS. 



For distances and fares 
throughout, 
see opposite page, 
Mo. so. 



From Geneva 7 . ^ij. ^ -«t *3 

— Bienne S ^1^®^' P^^e Iv., ]^0. 8. 

— Berne } Olten, page Iv., ;^o. 6. 

— Zurich. ...to Olten, page Iv., 'No. 



GENEVA— VILLENEUVE— BEX. 

From Geneva. Geneva (a) i Rail, p. Iv., 

Morges j ]^"o. 8. 

Steam to Villeneuve. 

Morges dep. 

Lausanne (Ouchy) 

50 ... Vevey 

53 Clarens 

i ... ... Villeneuve arr. 

Villeneuve dep. 

Aigle 

Bex (6) 

ST.MAURiCE(see below)arr. 



From Villeneuve. 

7 |— 751— 501— 45 
13 1 90| 1 30| 1 — 



a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 






8 — 


10 — 


2 5 






9 — 


11 37 


3 41 






6 15 


9 15 


12 10 


4 — 






7 — 


9 55 


12 50 


4 40 






8 17 


11 — 


1 55 


5 45 






8 40 


11 21 


2 IG 


6 6 






9 8 


11 45 


2 40 


6 30 




r"— 


9 20 


12 — 


3 — 


6 45 


8*25 


7 20 


9 40 


12 20 


3 20 


7 5 


8 45 


7 35 


9 55 


12 35 


3 35 


7 20 


9 — 



(c) F/oin Geneva to Villeneuve, Steam also, in 4 hrs., touching at all the intermediate ports. 
(b) From Bex to St. Maurice, Omnibus, in h hr. 



GENEVA— BOUVEEET— St. MAUEICE—I 

dep. 



From Bonvcret 



Geneva, steam , - 

' c by Savoy side... dep. 



SION, 

a.m, 



1 35 

1 85 

2 G5 

3 5 



1 

1 40 

2 — 
2 30 



Bouveret (rail) dep. 

Monthey 

St. Maurice (see ;.^o. 28) 
Vernayaz (Pissevache Fall) 

Martigny 

Saxon Baths 

Sion 

In progress. 



9 

9 30 
9 40 
10 7 
10 20 



Changes impending, 
a.m 



1 45 

2 15 
2 31 

2 52 

3 5 



p.m. 




p.m. 

3 — 






3 30 


5 20 




7 30 


5 50 




7 47 


6 6 




8 — 


6 27 






6 40 




' 8 25 



ITALIAN EAILS. 



Eng. 
Mis. 



1 

fr. c. 

67 35 
15 15 



Fares. 
2 

fr.c. 

50 5 
10 90 



3 

fr.c 

37 30 
8 GO 



From 

1 80 
4 20 
8 70 



are to Aix. 
Aix. 



1 35 
3 15 
6 55 



— 90 
2 10 
4 3, 



Paris, Lyons, Geneva, and 

CHAMBEEY to TUEIN. 

(1) Paris ....dep. 

(2) Lyons dep. 

(3) Geneva dep. 



Culoz Junction 

Aix-les-Bains 

Chambery 

St. Pierre d'Albigny 

St. Jean de Maurienne..... 

(Dil. on to Susa, as shown in the 
undivided columns.) 

Susa dep, 

Turin arr, 



Trains. 



p.m. 


8 5 


a.m 


7 54 


a.m. 


5 50 


p.m. 


6 — 


a.m. 


6 — 


p.m. 


4 15 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 




8 50 


8 50 


6"l9 


12 55 


4" 14 




7 10 


1 45 


5 — 


10 "44 


8 17 


2 29 


6 — 




10 20 


3 59 


8 — 


12" 24 




p.m. 




night 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


3 50 


8 20 




12 50 


5 30 


10 — 


3 45 


1 30 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 



The object of these Tables is— to give a general idea of directions, time, fares, etc. 



SWISS BAILS. 



lix 



For Greneral and Local Information, etc., see head of preceding pages. 



|Eng. 
iMls. 



1 

fr.c. 



2 

fr.c. 



3 

fr. c. 



BEENE to BIEN^E, GEISTEVA. 



i 



ge Iv. 



Berne to 

Herzogenhuchsee 

Her zoqeribnchsee to 1 i- , w_ 
Bienne, Geneva 1 P^^^ 1^^'" ^® 



Mo. 6. 



LTJCEHNE to zSeICH, BEENE, THUN, BIENNE, GENEVA. 



From Lucerne 



34 


5 80 


4 


10 


2 


95 


76 


12 50 


8 


80 


6 


30 


79 


12 5 


8 


50 


6 


10 


95 


15 20 


10 


70 


7 


70 


79 


11 85 


8 


40 


6 




186 




20 


50 


14 


40 



^X^.l*°}pagelv., aro. 2. 

fTo Zurich ... page liv., 
— Berne 7 
From 01ten< - Thun J P^^^ l^^" 
j — Bienne 
L — Geneva : 



^ I page liv.. 



Mo. 3. 
Mo. 5. 
Mo. ^. 



26 



BEX— VILLENEUVE— GENEVA. 

St. Maurice (6) see below. 

From Bex Bex dep. 

1 15 — 80 — 55 Aigle 

190 1 30 1— Villeneuve arr. 

Steam to Morges. 

Villeneuve {a) dep. 

19 ... Clarens 

22 Vevey 

34 ... Lausanne (Ouchy) 

42 Morges arr. 

Morges i Rail, page liv, 

72 Genevan ^o. 

(a) From Villeneuve to Geneva, Steam also, in 4 hrs., touching at all the intermediate ports. 
(6) From St. Maurice to Bex, Omnibus in \ hr. 



a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


5" 10 


8 '35 


11 — 


1 


40 


4 10 


7 30 


5 26 


8 51 


11 16 


1 


56 


4 26 


7 50 


5 45 


9 10 


11 35 


2 


15 


4 45 


8 12 


6 — 


9 25 


11 55 






5 — 




6 31 


9 52 


12 22 






5 27 




6 56 


10 15 


12 45 






5 50 




7 56 


11 15 


1 57 






6 50 




8 34 


11 55 


2 42 






7 30 




9 6 


12 21 


3 10 






7 55 




10 50 


1 47 


4 40 






9 35 





SIGN— ST. MAUEICE-BOUVEEET— GENEVA 

a.m. 

In progress. 

Sion dep. 

Saxon Baths 

From Martigny Martigny 7 

Vernayaz (Pissevache Fall) 7 11 

St. Maurice (see above).. 7 31 

Monthey 7 42 

Bouvere't arr. 8 10 



3^ 


— 70 




50 


— 35 


9 


1 90 


1 


30 


— 95 


12 


2 65 


1 


75 


1 30 


21 


4 55 


3 


£; 


2 30 



Gejteva, steam \ ^7 Savoy side... arr. 

loj Swiss side. ..arr. 



12 
12 30 



Changes impending, 
a.m. 



11 20 
11 32 

11 57 

12 9 
12 40 

5 — 
5 30 



3 30 

3 42 

4 7 
4 19 
4 50 



p.m 



7 26, 
7 37 



30 



ITALIAN RAILS. 



Eng. 
Mis. 



1 

fr. c. 



Fares. 

2 

fr. c. 



5 30 



3 70 



3 

fr. c. 



2 65 



From St. Jean 



28 


4 


60 


3 


45 


2 


30 


43 


7 




5 


25 


3 


50 


51 


8 


40 


6 


30 


4 


20 



From Turin 



58 70!45 80^39 20 
105 90 84 95 67 90 



TUEIN to CHAMBEEY, 
Greneva, Lyons, and Paris. 

TuKiJT dep. 

Susa arr, 

(Dil. on to St. Jean, as shown in the 
undivided columns.) 

St. Jean de Maurienne 

St. Pierre d'Albigny 

Ohambery 

Aix-les-Bains 

Culoz Junction 



(1) Geneva arr. 

(2) Lyons arr. 

(3) Paris arr, 



a.m. 

8 15 
10 13 



7 30 

8 9 



a.m. 



Trains, 
p.m. 

2 — 

3 58 
p.m. 
a.m. 

5 — 



6 40 

7 — 
7 43 
a.m. 



a.m. 10 55 
a.m. 11 35 
p.m. 9 10 



p.m. 

5 45 
7 43 

p.m. 
a.m. 

11 21 

12 42 

1 31 

2 12 

3 16 
p.m. 

7 50 
7 15 

6 15 



a.m. 

5 55 
7 53 



p.m, 

4 - 

5 56 
7 

7 40 

p.m. 

p.m. 
p.m. 
a m. 



32 



As to changes in the hours, see ' Preface.' 



Ix ITALIAN RAILS. 























hng. 






3 


COMO and MILAN to VENICE. 




Trains. 




Mis 


Ir.c. 


Irfc. 


Ir. c. 






a. . 


a.m. 


noon 


p m 










(Como, omnib. h hr. before) Camerlata...dep. 




7 46 


12 — 


4 45 


'^1 


4 50 


2 93 


2***25 








8 39 


12 53 


5 50 


30 


6 — 


3 90 


3 — 


^ 






9 2 


1 16 


g 




From Milan 




den 


g 


10 37 


3 7 


7 35 




6 5 


4 70 


3 40 




7 47 


12 24 


4 56 


9 12 


62 


11 70 


9 10 


6 60 






9 26 


2 12 


6 47 


10 45 


88 


16 60 


12 90 


9 30 






10 47 


3 33 


8 S 


12 — 


104 


19 60 


15 20 


11 — 


Verona, June, for Maxtua, below 




11 34 


4 20 


8 55 


12 53 


lo2 


28 75 


22 35 


16 15 






2 36 


7 10 




3 19 


176 


33 5 


25 65 


18 55 






3 52 


8 26 




4 29 














p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 










Verona to Mantua. 




noon 






a.m. 














12 15 


^ 50 


^ 15 


7 16 


'2*3 


5 — 


3 25 


2 50 






1 30 


g 


10 30 


8 40 


Mis 


Ir. c. 


Ir. c. 


Ir. c. 


VENICE to MILAN and COMO. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


















6 39 


11 19 


^ 43 


23 


4 30 


3 30 


2 40 






8 — 


12 42 


w 


72 


13 80 


10 70 


7 75 


Verona, June, for Mantua, below 




7 52 


10 26 


3 8 


1 43 


88 


16 45 


12 75 


9 25 






8 52 


11 43 


4 29 


2 32 


114 


21 35 


16 55 


11 95 






10 29 


1 17 


6 — 


4 6 


144 


27 — 


20 95 


15 15 






12 15 


3 




5 46 


176 


33 5 


25 65 


18 55 






1 50 


4 34 


9 19 


7 22 




From 


IMilan 








3 — 


6 30 




10 — 


9 


1 50 


— 98 


— 75 






3 20 


6 50 




10 20 


30 


6 - 


3 90 


3 — 


(Como, omnib. J hr. after) Camerlata.. 




4 20 


7 50 




11 20 














p.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 


a.m. 










Mantua to Verona. 
























5 34 


9 14 


1 54 


6 50 


23 


5" — 


3**25 


2 50 Verona 




7 — 


10 26 


3 8 


8 3 












TUEIN to GENOA. 




a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 










Turin 


..dep. 


6 — 


10 — 


2 30 




56 


9 10 


6***35 


4**55 




8 40 


12 — 


5 10 


7 10 


103 


16 60 


11 60 


8 30 






11 32 


2 10 


8 2 


9 20 










* To Stradella (for Pavia, &c.) 2 hrs. 


















TURIN to ARONA and MILAN. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 














8 15 


11 5 


2 15 


5 20 


T2 


2 30 


1 75 


l*"l5 




9 — 


12 — 


2 45 


6 — 


33 


5 40 


4 5 


2 70 


Santhia (To Biella, 1 hr.) 




9 45 


1 — 


3 2S 


7 — 


59 


9 50 


6 65 


4 75 






11 — 


2 25 


4 30 


8 30 


81 


13 20 


9 25 


6 60 






12 — 


3 25 


... 


9 30 


89 


14 60 


10 95 


7 35 






12 44 


4 — 


6 — 


10 15 










GENOA to TURIN. 




a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 


p.m. 














6 5 


10 — 


2 40 


5 — 


46 


7" 60 


5***30 


3**80 




8 40 


12 — 


5 10 


7 10 


103 


16 60 


11 60 


8 30 






11 30 


2 10 


8 5 


9 10 










* From Stradella (Pavia, &c.) 2 hrs. 


















MILAN and ARONA to TURIN. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


a.m. 


p.m. 










Milan, Porta Nuova 




4 40 


8 — 


11 — 


3 30 










Arona, Las^o ^laggiore 




5 25 


8 45 


12 25 


3 50 




3'7(i 


2 60 


1 85 NovARA Junction 


6 25 


9 43 


1 46 


4 44 


48 


7 8(J 


5 70 


3 90 


Santhia (From Biella, 1 hr.) 




8 — 


12 — 


4 — 


7 30 


69 


10 90 


8 — 


5 45 


Chivasso (From Ivrea, r| hr.) 




9 — 


1 — 


5 15 


8 30 


«1 


13 20 


9 25 


6 60 






9 30 


2 10 


6 — 


9 10 



As to changes in tlie liours, see ' Preface.' 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



5 



These • Through Routes ' indicate, in a bird's-eye view, the way to go : with every- 
place of importance and every heading of interest. They are necessarily brief: but 
they show sufficiently, and connect intelligibly, what can be done and what ought 
to be seen. 

Those who wish for fuller details will find them, with the most complete inform- 
ation and advice, Practical Maps and Plans, etc., in the Special * Practical Guide ' 
for whatever country is proposed to be passed through. 



1. TO PAHIS— I. BY BOULOGNE. 

English rail, steam, and French rail, 10 hours. Daily. Pages xxxviii, xliv. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Guide for France.') 

liOndon Bridge station. Kail onward. 
2| hrs. Folkestone harbour. Steam onward. 
2"hrs. Boulogne-sur-Mer— Pop. 30,000. 
Hotel Meurice, Eue de I'Ecu, first-class, excellent. 
Hotel du Nord, first-class, central, thoroughly recommend- 
able. 

Hotel de Folkestone, on the Quai, well -placed, reasonable, re- 
commendable. 

Hotel de l'Europe, close to the steamers, much frequented by 
the English, excellent. 

Hotel du Lion d' Argent, quiet, second-class, reasonable. 

Physicians — The following may be consulted^with the greatest 
confidence — 

— Dr. Perrochaud, 35 Eue Siblequin, Knight of the Legion of 
Honor, has been in England, and speaks the language well. 

— Dr. Allatt, Fellow of tlie Eoyal College of Physicians, Lon- 
don, 47 Pue de I'Ecu, has long resided here. 

English Reading-Rooms, Books, 8fc. — 

(^) Merridew, close to the Quai and Steamers. 
(-) Seal, 41 Grande Eue. 

Agent of South Eastern Railway Co. — Mr. Barnard, 12 Quai des 
Paquebots, particularly attentive and polite. 

Picturesque. The ' lower town ' occupied by the English ; the 
' upper ' by the French. Promenade on the Jetty. 

Sights — 1. Mnseum^ curiosities and antiquities. 

2. Cathedral^ modern, Grecian : in the ' upper tOAvn.' Crypt. 

3. Colonne Napoleon, If ml. on the Calais road : raised b}^ ^N'a- 
poleon I to his contemplated invasion of England. 

From Boulogne, rail onward the entire way. 

f hr. Montreuil. — Beyond, distant from the rail 
— Forest of Crecy, 1., where Edward HI defeated Philip of Va- 
lois, Aug. 26, 1346. Best visited from Abbeville below. 
\ hr. ]?Toyelle station. Branch -rail in \ hr. to 

E 2 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



— Port of St. VaJery, r., whence William the Conqueror sailed, 
for the conquest of England. 

4 hr. Abbeville— Pop. 18,000. 

Hotel de France, best, Post for Dieppe, Eu, Treport, etc., 
good and reasonable. Omnibus to and from rail. 
Sight — Cathedral^ 15th cent., extreme Flamboyant. 
Excursions — 1. To Crecy Battle-field, 12 mis. See above. 
2. To Azincour Battle-field^ 20 mis. further. 
J hr. Amiens Junction, see next Route. 

2f hrs. Paris, page 9. Terminus,'Rue de Dunkerque. 



2. LONDON TO PAHIS— II. BY CALAIS. 

i English rail, steam, and Fr. rail, 12 hrs. Thrice-a-day. Pages xxxviii, xliv. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Guide for France.') 

London Bridge station. Rail onward. 

2| hrs. Dover station. Steam onward. 

Lord W arden Hotel, of high character, and reasonable. 

2 hrs. Calais— Pop. 13,000. 

Hotel Dessin, well established, of the highest class. 

Hotel Meurice, excellent, reasonable. Tables d'hote. Omni- 
bus to and from steamers and rail. 

Buffet- Restaurant, at the Railway-station, immediately oppo- 
site the English Steamers, has refreshments at all times, private 
apartments, and clean good beds. It is both convenient and ex- 
cellent. 

A fishing-place. Heroically defended against Edward III in 1337. 
From Calais, rail onward the entire way. 
f hr. St. Omer— Pop. 54,000. Celebrated R. C. Seminary. 
— Azincour Battle-field^ r., distant from the rail. 
1 hr. Lille— Pop. 70,000. Modern city. Manufact. flax. 
Hotel de l'Europe, first-class, admirable. 
Hotel de Flandre, good, and reasonable. 
Cafe-Restaur-ANT L.\lu:bie, Place du Theatre, admirable and 
unique. 

To Brussels and the Rhine, by Mouscron, rail, p. 23. 

f hr. Douai— Pop. 18,000. R. C. Seminary. 
Hotel de Flandre, Place d'Armes, first-class, best. 
Sights — 1. The 3Iairie. — 2. Cannon-Foundry. — 3. R. C. Uni- 
versity. 

To Brussels and the Rhine, by Valenciennes, rail, p, 24. 

\ hr. Arras — Pop. 29,000. Vast corn-market. 
Hotel du Griffon et de l'Europe, close to Cathedral, first- 
class, reasonable, excellent. English spoken. 

Hotel du Co:^dierce, the nearest to the rail, recommendable. 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



7 



Sights — Moorish squares. — Fortijlcations. — Puhlie gardens. 
1 hr. Amiens— Pop. 48,000. 

Hotel de France, 23 Rue Royale, first-class, excellent. 
Hotel de Londres et du Nord, close to the station, well placed, 
very good, reasonable. 

Hotel du Rhin, near the rail and Cathedral, first-class. 
Sight — Cathedral^ 13th cent., Gothic, magnificent. 

Junction of Rails —1. To Boulogne.— 2. To Calais.— d. To Brussels. — 4. To Paris^ 

2\ hrs. Enghien — fashionable Parisian resort, park, lake, &c. 

1 hr. St. Denis— Pop. 15,000. 

Sight — Ahhey Burial-place of French Kings. 

\ hr. Paris, page 9. Terminus, Rue de Dunkerque. 

3. LONDON TO PARIS— III. BY DIEPPE. 

English rail, steam, and French rail, 14 hrs. Daily. Pages xxxviii, xlir. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c,, in * Practical Guide for France.') 

London Bridge station. Rail onward. 

2 hrs. Newhaven harbour. Steam onward. 

8 hrs. Dieppe— Pop. 26,000. Manufact. ivory. 

Hotel des Bains (Morgan), facing the sea and baths : of the 
highest class, quiet, thoroughly recommendable.~A large private 
house also on the beach for families. 

Hotel Royal, on the cliff, r. of harbour, fine sea-prospect, first- 
class, admirable, and trust-worthy. 

Grand Hotel de Dieppe, facing the sea, first-class, superb, 
excellent. 

Hotel des Armes de France, Grande Rue, 44 & 46, a few 
minutes' walk from the steamers and the baths, is an old establish- 
ed first-rate house for English comforts, having English Proprie- 
tors. Arrangements made with famihes during the winter on 
moderate terms. 

Hotel Victoria and du Nord, convenient both to the Steam- 
ers, Rail, and Baths, very good, with moderate prices. 

Physicians— ThtXtiree following are of the highest reputation — 
— Dr. Tabois : is English : has long resided here. 

— Dr. Guitton : an old resident, and distinguished author ; Member of the Society 
of Acclimatation. 

— Dr. Moriarty : is English : author of the ' Histoire des Bains de Dieppe.' 

English Pharmacy — Tinel Herault^ Place Nationale, close to Church of St. Jacques, 
prepares according to the English formula. 

General Chemist, ^c— M. Pepin^ 140 Grande Rue, a house of high character and 
confidence : prepares English prescriptions. 

Sights— 1. Church of St. Jacques, 13th cent., Gothic: fine. 
2. Church of St. Remi, 16th cent., Gotho- Saracenic. 
Excursion — To the Chateau d^Arques, 3 mis., most interesting. 
From Dieppe, rail onward the entire way. Picturesque. 
1| hr. Rouen Junction, see next Route. 
2i hrs. Paris, page 9. Terminus, Hue d' Amsterdam. 



8 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



4. LONDON TO PARIS— IV. BY HAVRE. 

Engl rail, steam, and Fr. rail, 16 hrs. Alternate days. Pages xxxviii, xliv. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Guide for France. ) 

London, Waterloo Bridge station. Rail onward. 
3 hrs. Southampton station. Steam onward. 
7 hrs. Havre (i. e. 'harbour' of Paris)— Pop. 80,000. 
Hotel de l'Europe, central in the town, excellent. Railway- 
bureau in this house onh/,—^ great convenience. 

Picturesque. Splendid view from Ingourille hill, above. 

From Havre, rail onward the entire wav. 

ExcURSioxs — to adjacent watering-places, all picturesque. 

1. To Honjleur, steam twice daih', f hr., 1 fr. 

2. To Trouville, steam twice daily, f hr., 1 fr. 

3. To Utretat, Casino, Concerts, etc., steam, 2 hrs. 

2 hrs. Rouen — on the Seine. Pop. 90,000. 

SmTH's Hotel d'Albiox, well placed, recommendable. 

Hotel de Paris, on the Quai. Tables d'hote, or refreshments 
* a la carte.' A good French house, and economical. 

Hotel de Dieppe, opposite the Railway-station, extremely con- 
venient for rapid sight-seers, as luggage can be left, and trusty 
guides and carriages at fixt price be had, here. Unpretending, but 
fair and reasonable. 

Hotel d'Axgleterre. 

Houses of Business — 

English Physicia}i—T)r. ]\Iurphy, 10 Quai de la Bourse. 

EtuiUsh Pharmacy — AValthery, 14 Rue des Charrettes, near the 
Theatre, highly recommendable. 

Bureau de change — Delarue, 22 Rue Grand Pont ; of high cha- 
racter, trusty. Also 

Diafuou'Is, Pearl-orname72fs, Plate, Jewellery, and Wafches, — are 
kept by Delarue, and may be relied on. 

Confectionery — Saratz, 10 Rue Grand Pont. ' Au desir de 
plaire ! ' Perfectly unique and exquisite. Worth a call even for 
curiosity-sake. 

Old English Capital of Xormandy. Death-place of William the 
Conqueror. * The Manchester of France.' Manufact. cotton. 
Sights — 1. Church of Sf. Ouen. I4th cent., Gothic: superb. 

2. Cathedral^ ' Notre Dame,' 16th cent., Gothic, ' viciously tlorid.' 
In last chapel to the r. — tomb of Rollo, 1st Duke of Normandy : 
in the sacristy — Coeur de Lion's heart, hb dying bequest of love to 
Normandy. — Close to 

3. Church of St. Muclou^ 15th cent., florid Gothic : fine. 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



9 



4. Museum of Antiquities^ Rue Beauvoisin : very rich. Stained 
glass from the 13th cent., the finest collection in Europe. 

5. Palais de Justice , 15th cent., Gothic : where Joan of Arc was 
condemned, May 29, 1431. — Close to 

6. Place de la Pucellcy where, next day, she was burnt. 

7. Bourgtheroiilde mansion, in the Place — a perfect antique. 

8. Rue de la Grosse Hurloge^ close by, one of the most cha- 
racteristic old feudal streets. 

Walk — To St. Catherine's Ifount, f hr. Picturesque view. 

If hr. Mantes ' la jolie ' — sacked by William the Conqueror, 
and the cause of his death. 

Hotel du Grand Cerf, an old Palace, capital cuisine and mnes, 
most reasonable. A good quiet place. Fishing. 

Sight — Cathedral, Gothic : fine. 

1 hr. Paris, see next section. Terminus, Rue d' Amsterdam. 

Br/ the River Seine. 

Steam — Tip: Havre to Rouen, 7 hrs. Dmvn : 5 hrs. 

Fares — Between Havre and Rouen, 1st pi. 6 fr., 2nd pi. 4 fr. 

Scenery — Feudally picturesque. Interesting for those who have 
a day to spare. The Places of note are detailed, with Plan mark- 
ing their positions, equally in the 

* Practical Paris Guide ' and ' Practical Guide for France.' 



5. PABIS. 

On the Seine. Pop., 15th cent., 100,000: now 1,300,000. 

Hotel du Louvre, Rae de Rivoli, Place du Palais Royal, the 
largest in Europe, magnificent, admirable. 

Hotel Wagram, 28 Rue de Rivoli, first-class English house, 
well established, finely situated, thoroughly satisfactory. 

Hotel de Lyon, 12 Rue des Filles St. Thomas, central, good 
French House, English spoken, economical, great attention. 

Hotel de Calais, 5 Rue Neuve des Capucines, corner of Rue 
de la Paix, Place Yendome, admirably situated, extremely reason- 
able, and excellent. A new, young, experienced Proprietor, well 
acquainted with English. 

Hotel Meurice, only suitable for families, good but dear. 

Restaurants of every class, in the Palais Royal. 

Public Vehicles — Per course. ... Per hour. 

Omnibuses to all parts . . . . — 30 c. ... — — 
Yoitures, variously, from . . . 1 fr. 20 c. ... 1 fr. 75 c. 



10 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



Houses of Business — 

English Chemist— J. Dalpiaz, 275 Rue St. Honore, near the 
Madeleine. Sole agent for Savory and Moore of London. 

Bureau de Change — Meyer, Spielmann, & Co., 26 Rue Vivi- 
enne. Of good repute. 

Opeil\ Glasses, Optical Instroients — The House of the En- 
gineer Chevallier, 15 Place du Pont Xeuf Ducray Chevallier, 
his son-in-law, and sole successor. Founded by the Family in 
1740. Of unquestionable standing : not to be confounded with 
another (modern) house assuming a similar name. 

T.AILOR — Dusautoy, Boul. des Italiens. Fashionable. 

Dentist — Mr. Paterson, 396 Rue St. Honore. Clever, and 
trust-worthy. 

Ladies' Bonnets — Madame Laure, 24 Rue de Choiseul. This 
name is its own world-wide eulogium. 

English Bookseller — Fowler, 6 Rue Montpensier, Palais 
Royal. A weekly parcel from London. Same prices as in England. 

English Reading-Room — Galignani, 224 Rue de Rivoli : one 
of the greatest English agremens of Paris. 

< The Practical Paris Guide,' Is., (Fowler, 6 Rue Montpen- 
sier, Palais Royal.) supplies briefly and clearly all essential details 
of this most charming city. 

Practical Map of Paris, in the ' Practical Paris Guide,' indi- 
cates at once the position of every place, the sides of entrance to 
the Public Buildings, &c. 

One day — active, but quite feasible — may command a general 
view of the most remarkable Objects and the City itself. 

Two days may embrace all the places of interest in the conse- 
cutive order pointed out in the * Practical Paris Guide ' as above. 



6. PAHIS TO SWITZERLAND— I. BY STRASBOXJUG. 

Rail throughout, 15 hrs. Page xliv. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Guide for France.') 

Paris, p. 9. Terminus, Rue de Strasbourg. Rail on. 
i?A hrs. Epernay — Pop. 5500. 
Hotels. None recommendable. 

Head-quarters of Champagne : at the station 2J fr. per bottle 
60 c. per glass. Train stops for refreshments. 

Excursion — bv branch-rail, f hr., to 
Rheims— Pop. 36,000. 
Hotel. Koue recommendable. 



THBOUGH FRANCE. 



11 



Sights — 1. Cathedral, 1231, the second glory of Gothic archi- 
tecture in the world. 
2. Church of St. Hemi, flamboyant Gothic : fine. 
4 hrs. Frouard — 

To the Rhine, by Metz and the Moselle, p. 22. 

J hr. Xancy — Pop. 40,000. Manufact. muslin. 
Hotel d'Allemagne, close to the rail, good, moderate, and trust- 
worthy. 

Hotel de Parls, far from the rail, higher prices. 
Omnibus to or from rail, 6 sous (3d) 

Scene of the Battle of 1477, where Charles the Bold was slain. 
Residence of Stanislaus of Poland, after his abdication. 

Sights — 1. City Gates, modern Italian, magnificent. 

2. Chapelle Ronde, 1484, funeral chapel and sculptured tombs 
of the Dukes of Lorraine. 

2f hrs. Strasbourg— Pop. 80,000. 

Hotel de la Yille de Paris, first-class, spacious, excellent, and 
reasonable. 

Hotel de la Fleur, near the Cathedral, recommendable, rea- 
sonable, and honest, first-class. 

Hotel de la Maison Bouge, fine open situation, first-class, 
highly spoken of, reasonable. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, nearest the Station, good and cheap. 

Omnibus to or from rail, J fr. each person, \ fr. each package. 

Manufact. pates de foies gras — the notorious epicurean pies of 
the livers of geese most barbarously enlarged. 

English Church in Hotel de la Fleur, open to all visitors. 

Houses of Business — 

Bureau de change— ^. & L. Schwartz, 27 Place Kleber, corner of the Place. 
French, German, and English money may be trustworthily and advantageously 
changed here. 

Jewellery, Bijouterie, <j&c?.— may also be had of MM. Schwartz, as above. 

English Medicines, Hornoeopathic preparations^ Toilet-articles, ^"C. 
— Fr. Louis Letz, 2 Bue des Grandes Arcades, near Cathedral ; 
most intelligent and polite ; distinguished by the Ecole Superieure 
de Pharmacie for Anti-rheumatic soap of great efficacy. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral, 1 1th cent., Gothic, 400 years in building : 
glorious, outside and in. 

2. Mausoleum of Marshal Saxe, Church of St. Thomas. 

From Strasbourg to Switzerland. — Boute 1. 
By German rail. The more interesting v^ray. 
Omnib. 1 fr. — office, Place Kleber — to Kehl. At the Bridge over 
the Rhine, two posts mark its extraordinary height in 1851, 1852. 
1 hr. (4 mis.) Kehl — quiet little village. German rail on. 
Hotel de l'Agneau Blanc, Post, next the rail, recommendable. 
Hotel Rehtuss, next the Rhine, recommendable. 



12 THROUGH-ROUTES. 

2^ hrs. Freiburg, p. 45. Hence, into Switzerland, by tbe HoUen- 
tbal. Otherwise, by continued rail, to 
If hr. Basle. 

Fro7n Strasbourg to Switzerland. — Route 2. 
B}'' French rail continued. 

3 hrs. Mulhouse— Pop. 60,000. ]\Ianufact. muslin, etc. 

Hotel de la Yille de P-\ris, thoroughly first-class, admirable, 
and most reasonable. 

Hotel de l'Axge, close to the Station, convenient, extremely 
good second-class, with moderate prices. 

Handsome city. Capital of manufacturing France. 

To Besan<^on, Dijon, Marseilles, L, or Paris, r., rails, two next sections. 

f hr. Basle, ' Practical Swiss Guide,' page 51. 
7. PARIS TO SWITZERLAND— II. BY TROYES. 

Rail throughout, 13 hrs. Page xliv. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &:c.,in 'Practical Guide for France.') 

Shorter than preceding section, but less interesting. 

Paris, page 9. Terminus, Rue de Strasbourg. 

A\ hrs. Troyes (Buffet)— Pop. 28,000. Manufact. night-caps. 

Hotel. Xone recommendable. 

Sights— 1. Cathedral— 2. Church of St. Urhain, Both grand. 
Gf hrs. Belfort— Pop. 7000. 
First-class fortification. 

To Besancon, Dijon, Marseilles, Junction of rail, see next section. 

1 \ hr. Mulhouse — Junction with Strasbourg line to 
I hr. Basle, as in preceding section. 



8. BASLE TO DOLE, 

CFull details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Guide for France.') 

Cross Rail, connecting preceding and following sections. 
Direct route from Germany^ the Rhine, ^c, to the South of France. 
Basle — 

^ hr. Mulhouse, Junction — ) . 

lihr. Belfort, Junction- } as m precedmg sections. 

2i hrs. Besan9on— Pop. 37,000. Manufact. watches. 

Hotels not good. Du Nord, hest. 

Quantities of interesting old Roman remains. 

1^ hr. Dole— ) - r ^^ - 

1 1 hr. Dijon, Junction- } '''' ^^^l^wmg section. 

Dijon to Paris, 6J hrs. | Dijon to Lyons, 4^ hrs. 
Next section but one. 



THROUGH FR.\NCE. 



13 



9. PARIS TO SWITZERLAND— III. BY DOLE. 

Rail to Salins, 9 hrs. Thence, dils. Page xlvi. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Guide for France.') 

Paris, page 9. Terminus, Boul. Mazas. (Through-tickets,) 
1| hr. Fontainebleau— Pop. 8000. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 

Sights — 1. Palace, Outside : the/ Horse-shoe Steps,' from which 
Napoleon I addressed the Old Guard, on his transportation to Elba 
in 1814. Inside : apartments of great Historical interest. See de- 
tails in ' Practical Paris Guide,' or ' Practical Guide for France.' 

2. Forest : the pet resort of Francis I. Charming drives. 

5| hrs. Dijon— Pop. 28,000. 

Hotel du Parc, best, the only recommendable one. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral. Gutted in the Revolution of 1789. 

2. Church of Notre Dame^ 13th cent., Gothic : of great note. 

3. Church of St. Michael, 11 th cent., magnificent portal. 

4. Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, Collection of Mediaeval re- 
mains. Tombs of the Dukes, Toilet-articles of the Duchesses, &c. 

To Geneva, through-rail by Macon, etc., see next section. 

From Dijon, branch-rail on. 
l\hv. Dole— Pop. 10,000. 

Hotel de Geneve, the only recommendable one, comfortable, 
reasonable, anxious to please. 

Tarif to Geneva, Voiture, 2 horses, 200 fr. ; Posting, 240 fr. ; in 
either case, 2 days. To Champagnole, 37 mis. (60 kil.), see below. 

1 hr. Salins. Eail on, in progress. 

From Salins to Switzerland — 1. To Neuchdtel, and Berne, 

Dil. and rail, II hrs. Scenery — ^interesting. 
26f mis. (43 kil.) Pontarlier, 2500 ft.— Pop. 5000. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 

Old, dull town. Frontier. Passport. Rail on, in progress. 
Beyond, Chateau de Joux, where Toussaint I'Ouverture died. 
15 mis. (5 stund.) Motiers Travers — petty town : where Rous- 
seau lurked, when expelled from Geneva. 

18|mls. (6|- St.) NeucMtel, 'Practical Swiss Guide,' p. 133. 
To Berne, steam and rail, 4 hrs | To Geneva^ steam and rail, 4 hrs. 

From Salins to Switzerland — 2. To Lausanne. 

Dil. I Of hrs. Scenery — similar to preceding. 
26x mis. (13 kil.) Pontarlier, see above. The roads divide. 
The Yal Orbe is partly passed through. 
26 mis. (8| stund.) Chavornay, Rail on — 
^ hr. Lausanne, 'Practical Swiss Guide/ p. 132. 



THROrGH-ROUTES. 



From Salins to Switzerland — 3. To Geneva. 

Dil. to Les Eousses, S hrs. Thence — by Gex to Geneva, 3 hrs. 
down (6 up) : — or, by St. Cergues to N^yon, Lake of Geneva, 2 hrs. 
down (3J up). 

15| mis. (25 kil.) Champagnole. Junct. of Post-rd. from Dole. 
13| mis. (22 kil.) St. Laurent. 

Hotel de l'Ecu de France, perhaps best, but high. 
Usual sleeping- place for travellers by voiture. 
124 mis. (20 kil.) Les Rousses, 3000 ft. Frontier. 
Beyond, two routes : on either, magnificent view of the Lake of 
Geneva, backed by the Alps. 

To the Left. 

6 mis. (2 stund.) St. Cergues. — Inn. 

Ascent of the Dole, 5500 ft., mule-path, 3 hrs., grand view. 
9| mis. (3|^ St.) K'yon, Lake of Geneva, 1*200 ft., ' Practical Swiss 
Guide,' p. 145. Hence 

13| mis. (4|- St.) ^ hr. rail, (or 1 hr. steam.) Geneva. 

To the Right. 
By Gex. Past Voltaire's Fernex, to 

31 mis. (50 kil.) Geneva, 'Practical Swiss Guide,' p. 142. 
Additional service between Faris and Geneva. 
Rail throughout, by Macon, 16 hrs., next section. 



10. PARIS TO SWITZEHLAND— IV. BY LYONS. 

Rail throughout, 16 hrs. Page xlvi. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &:c., in ♦ Practical Guide for France.') 

Paris. As in preceding section, to 

6{ hrs. Dijon. Rail on, in continuation. * 
\ \ hr. Chalons— Pop. 14,000. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 

Along the Saone, picturesque. (Steam to Lyons ; down — 8 hrs. ; 
iip—X 1 hrs. ; 1st pi. 8 fr. ; 2nd pi. 6 fr.) 

lihr. Macon— Pop. 18,000. Manufact. wine. 

IIoTKL DE l' Europe, on the Saone, well situated, recommend- 
able, and best. English spoken. 

JJranch-rail to Amh^rieu Junction, see below, direct route for Geneva, Cham- 
bery, Turin, avoiding the detour by 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



15 



Hhr. Lyons— Pop. 170,000. Manufact. velvet, silk. 

(Perrache station for Paris and Marseilles. Fine view.) 

Hotel de Lyon, Rue Imperiale, a magnificent establishment, 
most richly furnished, of the highest order, yet with moderate 
prices which are affixed in the chambers. 

Hotel Collet, Rue Imperiale, Place Bellecour, fine central 
situation, first-class, thoroughly recommendable. 

Hotel de l' Univers, Rue Bourbon, Place Bellecour, nearest 
the Rail, first-class, frequented largely by the highest class of Eng- 
lish Travellers. English Landlord. 

Hotel de Provence et des Ambassadeurs, Place de la Charite, 
Place Bellecour, opposite the Post : established above 150 years : 
an ancient convent : vast salons, comfortable beds, baths, etc. 

Hotel de l' Europe, admirably situated on the Saone, in view 
of Fourvieres, first-class, of high reputation, comfortable. 

Houses of Business— 

Physician—Br. Pomies, Physician of tllfe Hospital, 14 Quai d' Orleans, speaks 
En^listi. 

Dentist— M.. Feindel, 30 Rue Imperiale, second floor. 
American Dentist — Dr. Mourgue, 3 Place de la Prefecture. 

Apothecary/ — Pharmacie Mauguin, 10 Rue Bourbon, Place Bel- 
lecour. Medical preparations according to the English formula. 
Homoeopathic preps, also. A house of the first standing. 

Cigars, Tobacco, Pipes, ^c. — Sieger, 2 Place Bellecour : of the 
highest character, strongly recommended. 

Portraits and Scenes woven on Silk — Carquillat^ 10 Rue Con- 
stantine, Croix Rousse : astonishingly beautiful, of European fame. 

Books, Ancient and Modern — Barretta, 26 Quai de FHopital. 

The Roman ' Lugdunum.' Resisting the ' Reign of Terror,' 1793, 
the National Convention decreed its "total extinction." Awful 
butchery ensued. Constant insurrections for wages since. 

Picturesque and beautiful City, with numerous 

Sights — 1. Antiquailles, formerly Palace of Roman Emperors. 

2. Fourvieres Height : splendid view. (Mt. Blanc sometimes seen,) 

3. Church of St. Irenee, behind Fourvieres. Crypt, where Po- 
lycarp preached, and Irenseus was buried. 

4. Church of Ainay. Dungeons of Christian Martyrs. 

5. Hotel de Ville, noble. In front, the pavement ran with blood 
from the guillotine, in 1793. 

From Lyons to Switzerland — 1. To Geneva, 

Rail throughout, 5 hrs., p. xlvi. Scenery — picturesque. Sit on the r. 

Lyons, Brotteaux station. 
1 hr. Amberieu — 

Junction of Branch-rail from Macon and Paris, see above. 

1^ hr. Culoz — Junction for Aix, Chambery, Turin, page 174. 
1 hr. Belleg-arde — Frontier (France, Switzerland). Passport. 



16 



THROUGH-ROLT^. 



Sights — 1. Pei-te du Rhdne^ where, when low, the river is 'lost' 
to view beneath rocks. 10 minutes from the Station. 

2. Jit net io7i of Rhone and Vaherine ; striking. Close by. 

Beyond, a narrow defile, the Rhone bursting along it. 

\hv. Collonges station — nearest stopping-point to visit 

The Fort de I'Ecluse : vast French fortifications. To enter 
appl}^ for order to your host at Lyons or 

% hr. Geneva, ' Practical Swiss Guide,' p. 142. 

From Lyons to Switzerland — 2. By Aix-les- Bains. 

1st ivay. Rail to Culoz, as above, 2^ hrs. Thence, along the 
Lac du Bourget, to Aix, 1 hr. Page 174. 

2nd ivay. Steam up the Rhone, to Aix, 14 hrs. [Down, to Lyons 
9 hrs.) — Better taken downrvards. Page 176. 

Scenery of the Rhone — Rhine-like towards the Aix end. 
From Aix — to Geneva, Chamouny, Cormayeur, Turin, p. 174 — 180. 

From Lyons to Chamhery. 

\st way. By Culoz and Aix, as aforesaid. Rail, 3^ hrs. 
2nd way. By Grenoble and the Grande Chartreuse, 2 days. 
Extremely interesting and picturesque throughout. As follows — 

Lyons, Perrache station. Rail on. 

1 hr. St. Hambert, Junction. 

2 hrs. Grenoble— Pop. 28,000. Manufact. kid gloves. 

Hotel des Trois Dauphins, opposite the Public Gardens, old 
established, highly recommendable, Landlord most obliging, speaks 
English. The rooms where Napoleon I, returning from Elba, 
rested for three days, deserve notice. 

Pictorially placed, fortified. Charming local Excursions in 
' Practical Guide for France.' 

Dils. daily, 3 frs., to and from 

3 hrs. St. Laurent du Pont, village — 
Hotel du Nord (Tirand), best. 

The romantic gorge of the Grande Chartreuse, to the r., de- 
scribed fully in ' Practical Guide for France.' 

Dils. daily, 3^ frs., most picturesque road, to and from 

4 hrs. Chambery, page 176. 

From Lyons to Turin. 

\st way. By Culoz, Aix, Chambery, as aforesaid. 

^nd way. ]5y — 3 hrs. rail, Grenoble, see above : thence, superb 
Alpine scenery, by — 16 hrs. diligence, Briangon : 15 hrs. dil., over 
Mt. Genevre Pass, see ' Practical Guide for France,' to Susa : 2 
hrs. rail, Turin, page 178. 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



17 



11. PABis— ma:eseilles--italy. 

Continuation of preceding section. 
fFull details, Maps, Plans, &c., in * Practical Guide for France.'] 

Paris, as before. Rail throughout to Marseilles, 19 hrs., p. xivi 
1 1 hrs. Lyons, preceding section. (Perrache station.) 
Steam, down the Saone: worth taking to Valence, 4 hrs., 1st pi. 
6j fr., 2nd pi. 4| fr., — or to Orange, as much again. 
Scenery — hills, vines, old forts, Khine-like. 
Rail, parallel to the River ; to Marseilles, 8 hrs. ; as follows. 
2i hrs. rail. Valence— Pop. 16,000. 

Hotel de la Poste (Laraotte), the best, comfortable and rea- 
sonable. 

Sights — Mediceval and Feudal remains, singularly interesting. 

2i hrs. Orange— Pop. 10,000. 

Hotels indifferent. Try Des Princes. 

Sights — 1. Roman Arch of Triumph, date unknown. 

2. Roman Theatre, 30,000 seats. Well preserved. 

f hr. Avignon— Pop. in 1659, 80,000; in 1859, 40,000. 

Hotel de l'Europe. 

Hotel du Luxembourg, excellent second-class, superior cuisine, 
comfort, and attention. Highly recommendable. (Ancient Prison 
and Judgment-house of the Inquisition, for priests.) 

Seat of the French Popes for 125 years. 

Sights — 1 . Rocher des Doms : rock, with pictorial view. 

2. Papal Palace, now a barrack and gaol. Immense : of the ut- 
most interest. In its ' Oubliettes,' Rienzi was confined. In its 
' Glaciere,' the victims of the Revolution of 1789 were stifled with 
quicklime. 

3. Church of the Cordeliers, in decay. Here Petrarch's married 
love, Laura de Sades, was buried. 

4. Museums, Natural History. Roman Antiquities. 
Excursions — 1. To Vaucluse, Petrarch's house and fountain, 18 

mis. Voit., there and back, 2 horses, 20 fr. 

2. To the Pont du Gard, vast Roman Aqueduct. Equidistant 
from Avignon, Tarascon, Nismes — 15 mis. ; voit., 12 fr. Omnib. 
passes about 1 mile distant. 

I hr. Tarascon Junction, Buffet — Pop. 11,000. 

Hotel des Empereurs, most recommended. Handbooks err in 
locating it 'close to the WidigQ'— that is the position of the 'Am- 
bassadeurs.^ 

Sights — Eai-ly Christian and Mediceval remains. Paintings. 
' Good King Rene's' Castle. The great Fair of Beaucaire in July, 



18 THROUGH-ROUTES. 

Excursion — by branch-rail, f hr., well worth taking, 

To A^ismes, MontpelHer, Cette, &c., rail, see close of this section. 

h hr. Aries — Pop. 20,000 : the women notorious for beauty. 
Hotel du Nord, best. 

Sights — I. Roman Amphitheatre, 25,000 seats. Ruined. 

2. Mmeum : Roman remains, Christian sarcophagi. 

3. Uliscamps, cemetery of 1st cent. : enormous. 
1 hr. Rognac Junction — 

To Aix (for Cannes, Nice, etc.), rail, see close of this section. 

^ hr. Marseilles— Pop. 195,000. Manufact. soap. 

Hotel des Empereurs, Rue Cannebiere, new Proprietor, newly 
embellish ed, first-class, excellent. 

Hotel d'Orient, central but quiet situation, of high reputation, 
frequented by first-class Travellers. 

Hotel du Luxembourg, Rue St. Ferreol, near Theatre, Post, 
and Steamers, of high character, well kept, and reasonable. 

Hotel Beaitv^au, in one of the best situations of the city, with 
sea-view, first-class, moderate, and excellent. 

Hotel de R o:\IE, Place St. Louis, capital situation, newly ar- 
ranged, anxious to give satisfaction, economical. 

Houses of Business — 

Surgeon-Dentist— ^l. Bailly, 8 Rue St. Ferreol ; talented and amiable. 

Apotliecam—C?imom, freres, Rue Pav^ d' Amour, near Rue Caiinebiere. 
Skilful in analysis. English is understood. 

Apothecary— Pdi%Q.^\, Pharmacien de TEcole de Paris, 9 Rue Paradis, near 
Post; understands the English Pharmacopoeia; and analyses. 

Special Pharmacy for Homceopatliic medicines — Trichon, 1 Rue du Jeune 
Anacharsis. His ' Elixir' for Gout and chronic Rheumatism is noticeable. 

Bureau de change— A.. Dejean & Co., 3 Place Royale. 

Bureau de c/mw^/e— Casteras, freres, 5 Rue du J. Anacharsis, beside the Post. 
The above Money-changers are trust-worthy and just. 

Linen-drape }y, Embroidery, Tapestry for hanyinys or ciirtains 
(' Toilerie, lingeries, ctouffes d'ameublement '), S^-c. — Baudouin and 
Martin, 34 Hue St. Ferreol, corner of Rue du J. Anacbarsis, 
opposite the Post ; a house of the highest class, trust-worthy. 

Bronzes, Porcelains, Ornamental fnrnitwe — Martorel, 31 Rue 
St. Ferreol. A magnificent exposition. 

The Roman ' Massilia.' B. c. 500. A handsome city. 
Sights — I. Playue-Faintinys, in the ' Consigne,' illustrating the 
scourge of 1720. 

2. Chateau d'Tf, outside harbour : scene of Monte Christo.' 



THROUGH FRANCE. 

Routes from Marseilles — see below. 



19 



Branch- Rails between Lyons and Marseilles. 
I 1. Branch-rail to Nismes, Montpellier, Cette, the Pyrenees. 

I Tarascon Junction, see above : sit on the right — 
I f hr. Nismes — Pop. 54,000. Manufact. silk, cotton. 
I Hotel du Luxembourg. 

j Hotel d'Orient, well situated, close to the Esplanade, Foun- 
i! tain, and Ar^nes, very highly reported of, may be confided in, 
I economical, and comfortable. 

j Phijsieian — Dr. Kijewski, Place des Arenes, opposite the entry . 
talented ; understands English. ' 

Apothecary — Zaleski, close to Church of St. Pol; has all the 
specialities of Paris. 

Sights — 1. Grande Place, where the persecuted Camisards 
(Prot. 1704) were broken alive. — Marble Fountain, cost 250,000 fr. 

2. Les Arenes, Roman Amphitheatre, 20,000 seats. 

3. Church of St. Pol. Of extraordinary beauty. 

4. Maison Carree^ a precious and beautiful antique. 

5. Public Gardens : picturesque. Roman antiquities. 
Excursion — To the Pont du Gard, see p. 17. Best visited from 

this, unless taken * en route ' hitherward. 

\\ hr. Montpellier — Pop. 46,000. Manufact. cottons, etc. 

Hotel Nevet, admirable, the only recommendable one. 

Physician — Dr. Vailhe, 4 Rue Tresorier de la Bourse: of high 
reputation. 

Apothecary — Lablache, 27 Grande Rue ; compounds medic nes 
trust-worthily ; has India-rubber and other Surgical appliances ; 
and excellent Tea and Chocolate. 

Reading-Room — Donbernard's, 5 Rue du Cardinal. 

Climate — soft and charming, frequented by invalids. 
I Sights — Public Gardens. Buildings. Narcissa^s grave. Musee 
Fabre, rare Paintings. 

i hr. Cette— Pop. 20,000. Manufact. wines, etc. 
i Hotel des Bains et de la Poste, close to the sea, excellent, 
first-class, highly recommended. Railway Booking-office, and 
Omnibus from Station. 

Sea-port. Baths. Direct railway route for the Pyrenees — 



To Toulouse, rail. 6 hrs. To Bordeaux, 6^ hrs. more. 



20 



TKROUGH-ROUTES. 



2. Branch-rail to Aix,for Cannes, Nice, ^c. 

Rog-nac Junction, see above : sit on the left — 

^ hr. Roquefavour station, and Aqueduct crossing the rail, 262 
ft. high, 12S7 ft. long, three rows of arches, a wonderful and beau- 
tiful work, A. D. 1830, carrying the water of the Durance, 60 mis. 
distant, to Marseilles. 

^ hr. Aix (en Provence)— Pop. 25,000. Baths. 

Hotel de la Mule Noire, estabhshed 400 years ; celebrated 
cuisine, served in silver ; great attention and comfort ; the family 
of the owner themselves attend the guests.— A large handsome 
House apart, for families. 

Hotel des Princes. 

Physician— Dy. Castellan, 28 Rue Cardinale, skilful, attends all 
the Enghsh, and speaks the language. 

The Roman ' Aquse ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ 

Sextise.' Old Capital Baths □ ^ City Gate 

of Provence. Seat of \)j< Cathedral 

the ^good King Rene,' 
— and of Gaiety, Love, 
Troubadom's, and 
Tournaments, 15th 
cent. Now, a fashion- 
able watering-place. 

Sights — 1. Church 
of Si. Jean, Gothic. 
Magnificently restored exterior, impressive. 

2. Musee de Tableaux, same street. Good Paintings. 

3. Hotel de Ville, for its Museum of Roman antiquities. 

4. 3Ietropole (Cathedral), for its singular double entrance-door, 
the inner of cedar, carved, A. D. 1500. 

5. Baths of Sextius, 78^ Fahr. Warm and saline. 

From Aix to Cannes and Nice. 

1. By Diligence, Messageries Imperiales, best, daily, 20 hrs. 

2. By Voitiire-to Cannes, 160 fr., 2i days ; to Nice, 220 fr., 3 days ; in either 
case, driver, lo fr. ; 2 horses. Sleeping-places— Brignolles, Frejus, Nice. See 
page 21. 

3. By 3Iarseilles and Toulon, rail and dil., as following section. 



ATX. 




Railway-station 



Hue Cardinale 



H. Mule Noire 
□ 

Theatre 



Churcli of 
^ St. Jean 



Routes from Marseilles. 

To Toulon, Cannes, Xice, next section. Thence on, by the Corniche Pass, 
To GcJioa, in continuation, p. 218 ; the most picturesque way. But the shortest 
way is as follows— 

Steamers. 

To Genoa direct, by steam, alternate days, IS hrs.; 1st place, 76 fr. ; 2nd pi. 58 
fr. ; board comprised. The shore-scenery is distant. 
To Cannes, once a-week ; fare, 25 fr. 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



21 



To Leghorn, 26 hrs.,98 and 71 fr. To Malta, twice a-week, 60 hrs. Brit- 

To Civltd' Vecchia, 36 hrs., 133 and ish India-mails, 8th and 26th of each 

9.5 fr. Thence to Rome, rail, 3 hrs. month. 

To Naples, 49 hrs., 181 and 128 fr. To Constantinople, Saturdays, 8 days, ' 



12. MARSEILLES TO ISTICE. 

1st way. By Steam: 14 hrs. Fare, 32 frs. 
From Marseilles, usually Wednesdays and Saturdays, and in the ni^ht. 
From Nice, usually Mondays and Fridays, and in the night. 

2nd way. By Land: 198 kil., 124 mis. ; as follows—" 
C) By Voiture; allowing at least 3 days ; 2 horses and driver, about 130 fr. 
(^) By Diligence— to Cannes, 16 hrs. ; on to Nice, 3 hrs. more. Coupe, 40 fr. 
Inter., 30 fr. Banq., 25 fr. Two services daily. Those of the Messageries Imperiales 
25 Rue Cannebiere, Marseilles, — and Place Charles Albert, Nice,— are especially re- 
commended. Places are booked throughout by rail and dil. at the bureaus. 

Marseilles, preceding section. Rail to Toulon. Sit on the r. 
Through the Gorge of OUioules, rocky, stern. 
H hr. rail. Toulon — Pop. 68,000. Commercial port. 
Hotel Croix d'Or, best. 

* The Plymouth of France,' naval dock-yards, remarkably for- 
tified. In 1793, the French Royalists admitted the aid of the 
English : the young Bonaparte forced the latter to evacuate : and 
the Revolutionists, 50,000, sacked the city with fearful butchery. 

Sights — 1. The Arsenal ; enormous; introduction of British 
Consul necessary. The fort ^ Fetit Gibraltar ' is the point from 
which Bonaparte commanded the whole position. 

2. St. Mandrier, naval hospital. Admirable gardens. 

From Toulon to Cannes by Steam (irregular), 5 hrs. Or to Nice, 6 hrs. 

From Toulon to JIyeres—a.n excursion worth being made. Omnibuses con- 
tinually from the rail, in connexion with the principal , trains ; fare, 1 fr. 25 c. 

11 mis. (18 kil.) li hr.'s drive. Hyeres— Pop. 5000. 

Hotel des Iles d'Or, best. 

On a hill-side, in view of the Mediterranean. Mild temperature from Oct. to 
May, for diseases of the lungs, etc. Villas for lodgers all around. The ' lies 
d'Or,' Isles of Gold, in the distance— so called from their overgrowth with oranges, 
or from their * yellow sands' in which mica shines resplendent. 

Physicians— the following can be safely^recommended as of high reputation 
and experience — 

—Dr. Allegre, 27 Rue du Bon-Puits. 

—Dr. Chassinat, 7 Route Imperiale. 

—Dr. Laure, Medecin-en-Chef de la Marine' en retraite,'Maison de Gaillard, 
Route Imperiale. 

English Pharmacy— Verignon is trust-worthy, and can prepare according to 
the London Pharmacopoeia. 

Lodgers are recommended to make no arrangements for houses, &c., before- 
hand. It is best to go for a day to an hotel, and then choose for one's self; much 
higher prices are asked than will be taken. 

From Toulon to Nice, the railway is in rapid construction. 

33 miles (53 kil.) Le Luc — Junction of the old rd. from Mar- 
seilles and Aix, page 20. 

At the Quatre-chemins, the dils. are met by voitures for 
Draguignan (from Nice, 10 hrs.' drive). 

24i mis. (39 kil.) Trejus (the final s is sounded)— Pop. 3000. 

r 2 



22 



THROUGH-EOUTES. 



15 mis. (24 kil.) Cannes— Pop. 5000. (Hence to Nice, dil, 3 hrs.) 

Hotel du Nord, close to the Sea, the longest established, 
anxious to satisfy, moderate prices. (It supplies good carriages 
for Nice, Aix, Marseilles, etc.) 

Restaurant d'Angleterre, clean, and cheap if you make a 

bargain for everything ; otherwise, exorbitant. 

Local P/j?/5ficia«s— the following are of reputation and experience — 

—Dr. Gazagnaire, M. D., of the Schools of Montpellier and Paris, resident here 

nearly 30 years, 15 Rue du Port. 

—Dr. Biernacki, Chief Physician of the Civil and Military Hospital, 15 Sur le 

Port. 

—Dr. Seve, Chief Physician of the Hospital, 6 Rue Forville. 

English Physician— Dr. Whiteley, M. D., Ed., formerly Dresser at St 
Thomas's Hospital, 20 Route de Frejus. 

Homceopathic -^Physician and Surgeon— ^Dr. Severin, Villa Severin, Route 
d'Antibes. 

Apothecary— GirsiTd, of the Ecole Speciale, Paris ; on ' the Port ; ' highly edu- 
cated. English prescriptions accurately prepared. 

7i mis. (12 kil.) Antibes— Pop. 6000. 
Hotels. None recommendable. Poste. 
A fishing-place, strangely seated and fortified. 
15 mis. (24 kil.) Nice, page 213. 



13. PARIS TO THE RHIKE— I. BY BRUSSELS. 

Eail throughout (Gt. Luxembourg), 14^ hrs. Page xhi. 

Paris, page 9. Terminus, Rue de Dunkerque. ^ 
6 hrs. Charleroi— Pop. around, 80,000. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 

Annual products— 3,000,000 tons of coal ; 10,000 miners ; 0600 
blacksmiths. 

J hr. Villers Abbey (station) : grand ruin, well worth visiting. 
Fired by the Revolutionists of 1789. 
^ hr. Ottignies. Junction 

To Namiir and the Rhine, page 26, 

f hr. Brussels, Luxembourg station, p. 26. 

Brussels to the RJnne, Q\ hrs., p. 25. 



14. PARIS TO THE RHINE— II. BY THE MOSELLE. 

Eail to Luxembourg, 10 hrs. Steam to Coblenz, 15 hrs. Page xliv, xlvi. 
(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Rhine Guide.') 

Paris. As Route 6, p. 11, to 

Gh hrs. Frouard. Junction of rail to 

\\ hr. Metz— Pop. 44,000. On the Moselle. 

Hotel de l'Europe, best. 

Sights— 1. Cathedral, Gothic. Glass, magnificent. 
2. Military Foundry, the largest in France. 
2'o Mannheim and the Rhine, rail continued, next sect. 



THROUGH FRANCE. 



23 



2J hrs. Ltixembourg, p. 26. (Eail on to Brussels.) Dil., 5|- 
frs., to 

5 hrs. Treves, Germ. Trier — Pop. 16,000. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 
* The oldest city of Germany.' Caesar visited it. 
Sights — 1. Liehfrauenkirche^ ' Church of our Lady,' close to 
Cathedral, 13th cent., pointed, beautiful. 

2. Archiepiscopal Palace, 1614 ; on the site of the Imperial Pa- 
lace, of which the Heidenthurm alone remains. 

3. Bdder Palast, ' Palatial Baths,' close to last — a ruin. 

4. Schwartzes Thor^ ^ Black Gate,' date doubtful ; massive^; of 
great interest. 

5. Library ; Gutenberg's first Bible, and other literary rarities. 

6. Roman Amphitheatre, outside the city ; 6000 seats. 

Down the Moselle. 
Steam down : Treves to Coblenz, 1st place, 4 thai. ; 2nd place, 

2 th. 20 sgr. ; in 10 hrs. 

Up : Coblenz to Berncastel ; next day, on to Treves ; 1st place, 

3 th. ; 2nd pL, 2 th. 

Scenery — Finely wooded, ruin-crowned, and vine-clad. 

For places of interest, Plan, etc., see ' Practical Rhine Guide.' 



15. PAE,IS TO THE HHINE— III. BY MANHHEIM. 

Rail throughout, 15 J hrs. Page liii. 

Paris. As Routes 6 and 14, p. 1 1 and 22, to 
7f hrs. Metz, see preceding section. 
2| hrs. Saarbriicken. 
If hr. Kaiserslautern. 

l|hr. Mannheim, Ludwigshafen station; Rhine; p. 41. 



16. L0K"D03Sr TO THE RHINE— I. BY CALAIS. 

Eng. rail, steam, French and Belgian rail, 19 hrs. Page xlvi 
(Full details^ Maps, Plans, &c., in * Practical Rhine Guide.') 

London Bridge station. As Route 2, page 6, to 

6J hrs. Lille. From this, 3 lines on — 

\st line. From Lille to Brussels, by Courtray, 4 hrs. 
^ hr. Mouscron. Here this 1st line divides from the 2nd. 

1 hr. Courtray — Pop. 20,000. Manufact. table damask. 

'Hotel Damier, said to be the best. 

Here the 'Battle of the Spurs was fought, 1302. 

Sights — 1. Hotel de Ville, figure-carved mantelpieces. 

2. Church of Notre Dame, 13th cent., modernised. Behind the 
altar, a fine ' Elevation of the Cross ' by Yandyck. 

li hr. Ghent — full of interest, see page 27. 

If hr. Brussels, Station du Nord, see below. 



24 



THROUGH-BOUTES. 



27id line. From Lille to Brussels, hy Tourmay, 3| hrs. 

f hr. Moiiscron. As before. Line divides from preceding, 
f hr. Tournay — Pop. 39,000. Manufact. carpets and cotton. 
Hotel. None recommendable. 

Sight — Cathedral, 11th cent., Norman- Gothic, beautiful. 
2J hrs. Brussels, Station du Sud, see below. 

Zrd line. From- Lille to Brussels, hy Valenciennes, 4 hrs, 
f hr. Douai, page 6. Line divides from that to Paris, 
f hr. Valenciennes — Pop. 20,000. Manufacture, lace, cambric. 
Hotel. None recomm.endable. 

Sight — Hotel de Ville, I7th cent., Gothic and Italian : imposing. ' 

1^ hr. Mons — Pop. 30,000. Manufact. linen, coal. 

Hotel. None recommendable. 

Fortified : its first fort raised by Julius Caesar. 

Sight — Church of St. JVaudru, loth cent., Gothic. 

l\ hr. Brussels— Pop. 150,000. 

Hotel Royal, near the Malines Rail and the Opera, excellent 
and reasonable. 

Hotel de Russie, 63 Rue Neuve, near the Theatres, first-class 
and moderate. 

Hotel de Flandre. 

London Tavern^ (Taverne de Londres), 17 Rue de TEcuyer, close 
to the Opera, kept by Mr. Meatyard, an Englishman, is trust- 
>vorthy and excellent. It gives breakfasts, dinners, refreshments, 
capital English Ales on draught, &c. ; and has beds. 

Physicians — The following- are of the highest talent — 

— Dr. Geens, M.D., 6 Place du Musee, has long- practised amongst the English, and 
speaks the language ; is especially experienced in ladies' disorders. 

— Dr. Parigot,M.D,, Prof, of the Univ. of Brussels, Physician to the Hospitals, etc,, 16 
Rue du Loxum, near the Post, has studied in England, and speaks the language also. 

Houses of Business — 

The English Dispensanj — Savory and Moore of London's corresponding house, at 
3S Montagne de la Cour. 

Bureau de Change— L. Uytborck, Agent for the South Eastern Railway Co., 74 
Montagne de la Cour, thoroughly honest. 

Lace-Manufactures, 'M-annfacinve de dentelles/ of every kind — M. Vanderkelen- 
Bresson, No. 248, or No. 1 corner, Rue du Marqtiis near the Cathedral, enjoys the 
highest European reputation, and has received the following testimonials of honour — 
1847, Belgium, Grand Gold Medaille d'honneur ; 1851, London, Prize :;Medal; 1853 
and 1854, Belgium, Medaille de l^re Classe des Arts Industriels ; 1855, Paris, Grande 
Medaille de 1^'*^ Classe ; 1857, Academic Nationale de France, Grand Gold Medaille 
d'honneur de l^^e Classe, &c. Visitors can judge for themselves of the character of his 
fabrics. They must be acknowledged to be incomparable. 

Watches, Bijouterie, 8fc. — Maison Vancaulaert & Fils, 76 Rue du Marche anx 
Herbes, close to Galerie St. Hubert, may be confidently patronised for guaranteed 
workmanship and moderate prices. 

Perfumery, China and India objects of taste, Brushes, Combs, Eau de Cologne, 
4'C.— Langlois-Lemmens, Ol Montagne de la Cour, corner of Rue du Musee, 50 years 
estab'ished, a first-class house. 

Tailor — F. Cottart, t'»7 Montagne de la Cour, understands English"; is prompt in his 
work ; makes for men, women, and children ; and is special for riding-habits 
{' ama/.ories.') 

Capital of Belgium — a smaller Paris. Manufact. lace. 



THROUGH BELGi™. 



25 



Sights — The best order for a general idea of the whole is — 

1. Cathedral^ St. Gudule, 13th cent., Gothic: striking and 
beautiful, without and within. Stained windows : carved pulpit. 

2. Lace 'Manufacture : most interesting : see above. 

3. Galerie St Hubert — a handsome arcade, with brilliant shops. 

4. Grande Place — where the ferocious Alva executed Egmont 
and Horn, in 1568, opposite the 

5. Hotel de Ville, a superb Gothic, 15th cent., in which the 
Duchess of Richmond's ball was held in 1815, when *the opening 
cannon's roar ' called the Iron Duke to Waterloo. 

6. Manniken Fountain^ close by. Rue de I'Etuve — a wicked little 
figure, on high days decorated d la militaire ! If people ivill visit 
this, they had better go alone. 

Up the Montague de la Cour, the fashionable street, to 
• 7. Museum : poor in Pictures ; rich in illuminated MSS., zoology, 
and mineralogy. Open from 10 to 3. 

8. Palace of the Due d'Arenherg — excellent paintings, open only 
to order. Built where the Protestants, in 1566, termed by Philip II 
of Spain's viceroy ' gueux,' beggars^ adopted the Beggar's costume ; 
and organised the revolution, which closed Spain's dominion here 
for ever. 

9. Park : Royal Palace, open in the King's absence, uninterest- 
ing : Palace of the Prince of Orange, better worth inspecting. 

ExcunsiONS — 1. To the Cemetery of Laeken^ 3 mis. Voit., there 
and back, 5 frs. Pretty drive. Mausoleum of Mad. Malibran. 

2. To the Battle-Field of Waterloo, 12 mis., 2 hrs.' drive : there 
and back, Suffell's Mail Coach, daily, at 9 a. m., 6 frs. 

Suffell is an Englishman, and deserves encouragement : he retains 
coach -places, and provides horses and carriages, at 17 Rue Villa 
Hermosa, Montague de la Cour. 

3. To Villers Abbey : grand ruin : rail, 1 hr. : p. 22, 26. 

To Paris, 8 hrs., page 22. | To Antwerp, | hr., page 30. 

To Ostend, 3| hrs., next section. j To the Rhine, as follows : 

1. From Brussels to the Rhine, — By Blalines, 6^ hrs. 
— Brussels, Station du Nord. 

J hr. Malines — whence, Louvain, Liege, Aix, etc., to 
6 hrs. CologrLe — described throughout, next section. 

2. From Brussels to the Rhine. — By Namur. 7 hrs. 

Same as 1st, omitting Malines and Louvain, and introducing 
Namur instead. Rail throughout. Page xlvii, xlviii. 

Advice — A good mode of alternating the going to and the return- 
ing from the Rhine. 

Scenery — Tame to ISTamur only, thence highly picturesque. 



26 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



— ^Brussels, Luxembourg Station, 
f hr. Ottignies. Junction. 

To ViUers Abbey, \ hr. To Paris, 7 hrs. more. Page 22. 

1 hr. Namur— Pop. 25,000. 

Hotel de Bellewe, good, clean, well-situated, comfortable. 

Hotel de Hollande, well spoken of, spacious, reasonable. 

Omn. to or from rl., ~ fr., cab 1 fr. — or, per hr., l~ fr. 

' The Sheffield of Belgium.' Manufact. cutlery. 

Sights — 1. Citadel: the strongest of the Belgian frontier. 

2. Cathedral, Corinthian : simple and imposing. 

Excursion — To Dinant, 15 mis. Carriage, 3 hrs. up ; 1|- hr. 

doivn. Also steam, 1st place, 1 fr. 75 c. ; 2nd pi., 1 fr. 25 c. 

Scenery — Beautiful ; along the Valley of the Meuse. 

Dinant— Pop. 6000. Sacked, 15th cent., by Philip the Good I 

Hotel des Postes first-class, trusty, well-placed, well kept, thoroughly 
satisfactory. The only recommendable one. 

From Nainur to Liege^ the Meuse is equally picturesque : steam 

down^ 4 hrs., 1st pi. 2 fr., 2nd pL 1 J fr. ; up, 6 hrs. The river and 

the rail run parallel. 

1|^ hr. Liege, Guillemins station — from whence to 

3f hrs. Cologne — described throughout, next section. 

Second route to the Rhine, from iVaw7ir.— Highly interesting, picturesque. 
6+ hrs. rail. Luxembourg,— -Pop. 13,000. 
Hotel. None recommended. 

Strongly fortified. Striking: and thoroughly pictorial. Dil., % fr., to" 
5 hrs. drive. Treves— (Hence by the Moselle and Coblenz, or by the Paris 
and Strasbourg rail), p. 23. 

17. LOUTDON TO THE RHINE—II. BY OSTEND. 

(Full details. Maps, Plans, &c., in • Practical Rhine Guide.') 
Daily service, p. xlviii. Twice a-week, p. xxxviii. 

London Bridge Station. Eail on. London, St. Katherine's Wharf. 
2^ hrs. Dover. Steam on. Steam on, throughout. 

6 hrs. Ostend. 12 hrs. Ostend. 

Scenery — tame to the descent on Liege : beautiful to Yerviers . 
ordinary to Cologne. Throughout, rich in most interesting cities. 

Ostend— Pop. 20,000. 

Hotel Royal de Prusse, new, admirably situated close to the 
Sea, first-class, reasonable. The high character of its Proprietor 
has gained the appointment of ' Fournisseur to the Prince Regent 
of Prussia.' 

Hotel de Bruxelles (Constant Declerck's) is recommended 
as the nearest to the English Steamers, very convenient for re- 
freshments, beds, etc., without pretension, but very good and 
trust-worthy. 

Hotel de la Couronne, open situation on the river, close to the 
Rail, convenient, very reasonable and recommendable. 
H(3tel Fontaine, first-class. 

Bureau de Change — Boudue, 37 Rue du Quai. Trust-worthy. 



THROUGH BELGIUM. 



Bathing-place of the Belgian Court. Bail on, the entire way. 
i hr. Bruges— Pop. 45,000. 

Hotel du Coivimeiice, first-class, long established, high reputa- 
tion, reasonable. 
Hotel de Flandre. 

A handsome city, with handsome inhabitants — * formosis Burga 
puellis.' Manufact. lace, leather-shoes, etc. 

Sights — 1. Tour des Halles^ in the Grand Place, 13th cent., 
Gothic, imposing. Finest peal of bells in Belgium. 

2. Chapelle du Sang de JDieu^ close to the Hotel de Yille ; named 
from its alleged possession of the blood of the Crucifixion; 16th 
cent., Gothic : very beautiful. Crypt, a. d. 845, 

3. Palais de Justice. Carved oak mantelpiece, 1592. 

4. Jerusalem Church, Model of the Holy Sepulchre. 

. 5. Academy. Fine paintings of Yan Eyck, Hemling, etc. 

6. Cathedral^ St. Sauveur. Paintings, numerous and excellent. 

7. Hospital of St. John, close by ; tended by Sisters of Charity. 
Precious paintings, principally Hemling's, 15th cent. 

8. Church of Notre Dame. Paintings, numerous and excellent. 
1 hr. Ghent, Fr. Gand, Btiffet—Fo^. 115,000. 

Hotel de la Poste, Place d'Armes, kept by the former Pro- 
prietor of the Hotel de Flandre in this city, first-class, excellent. 

Hotel Royal, Place d'Armes, first-class, most satisfactory. 

Hotel de Yienne, March e aux Grains, near Cathedral, good, and 
economical. 

Hotel du Lion d'Or, near the Cathedral, central, well spoken 
of, reasonable. English Proprietors. 
Omnibus to or from rail, \ fr. ; fiacre, 1| fr. per hr. 
' The Manchester of Belgium.' Manufact. cotton. 
Sights — 1. Hotel de Ville, 15th cent., florid Gothic: superb. 

2. Cathedral^ St. Bavon, close by, 16th cent., plain. Grand in- 
terior. 24 chapels. Admirable paintings. 

3. Belfry, * BefProi,' close by : watch-tower of yore. 

4. Beguinage — a curious convent : open to visitors. 

5. Death-place of Jacques van Artevelde, Padden Hoek. 

6. Theatre : magnificent reception-rooms : visited by Queen Yic- 
toria in 1845 : highly deserving inspection. 

To Antwerp, p. 30, rail 1^ hr., from Porte d'Anvers Terra. 

li hr. Malines, Flem. Mechlin, Buffet— Yo^. 25,000. Manu- 
fact. thread-lace. 

Hotel de St. Jacques, best. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral.^ 12th cent., Gothic; containing Yandyck's 
'Crucifixion,' 'one of the first paintings in the w^orld.' 

2. Church of St. John. Paintings of Bubens. 

3. Church of Notre Da7ne, fine. At back of altar, Eubens' ' Mi- 
raculous draught of fishes,' admirable. 

To Brussels, p. 25, rail, I hr. | To Antwerp, p. 30, rail, ^ hr. 



2S 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



i hr. Louvain— Pop. 28,000 : in 14th cent., 154,000. 

Hotel de Suede, best. 

Old residence of the Dukes of Brabant. Manufact. beer. 

Sights — I. Hotel de Ville, 15th cent., Gothic, perhaps the finest 
civic specimen extant. Inside — Paintings : by Giordano, Kubens, 
and Yandyck. The unruly weavers in 1382 threw the Magistrates 
out of the windows. 

2. Church of St Peter, 15th cent., opposite. Carved- wood Pul- 
pit ; Rood-loft, Gothic ; Hemling's altar-paintings ; cut-stone Taber- 
na<ile, etc. of the utmost interest. 

i hr. Landen — Junction of new line by Mastricht to Aix direct, 
2f hrs. ; shorter but less picturesque than the following. 

In the glorious descent on Liege, sit at the left side. 

1 hr. Liege, Guillemins station, Bujfet — Pop. 100,000. 

Hotel de l' Europe, very good, reasonable, recommendable. 
. Hotel de l' Uxr'ers, the best of the houses immediately op- 
posite the Guillemins station, convenient, very good and moderate. 

' The Birmingham of Belgium.' Manufact. iron. Chief scene of 
Scott's ' Quentin Durward.' Famous for its citizens' squabbles with 
their Prince-Bishops. 

Sights — 1. Palais de Justice, old Episcopal Palace, 15th cent., 
florid Gothic : remarkable colonnade. 

2. Church of St. Jacques, 16th cent., splendidly decorated. 

To Namur, rail \\ hr., or steam ; on to Brussels, rail If hr. more ; p. 26. 

The whole way on, through the Valley of the Yesdre, to Yer- 
viers, is of the highest picturesque. 
X hr. Chaudfontaine village. 
Baths. Charming situation. 

J hr. Pepinster — Junction of rail to Spa. Trains in | hr. 
Spa— Pop. 4000. 

Hotel d'Youk, high central situation, first-class. 
Hotel Belle\xe, nearest the Rail, first-class. 

Physician— T)t. Rouma, M. D., Petit Hotel de Bellevue^ Avenue du Marteau^ 

is of the hig-hest character and amiability. 
Apothecary — Schaltin, opposite the Poiilion. may be entirely confided in. 
Gloves, Ribbo/is, Fashions, ^-c. — Henrard, Xo. 152, has the best. 
Cigars direct from the Havana, Pipes, ^-c. — Henrard, opposite the Redoute, 

affords an immense choice. He imports and exports largely. 

Pretty situation ; balls ; gambling ; carbonic, tonic springs. 

Cross Koute beyond Spa — Through the volcanic Eifel, to 
the Moselle : of great geological interest. A good 2nd 
Route to or from the Rhine. In ' Practical Rhine Guide.' 

J hr. Verviers, j5///c?/— Pop. 30,000. 
Hotels. Near the Station. None recommended. 
' The Leeds of Belgium.' Manufact. cloth. Frontier of Prussia. 
Passports and luggage. Change railway-carriages. 



THROUGH BELGIUM. 



29 



. 1 J hr. Aix-la-Chapelle, Germ. Aachen, Buffet — Pop. 54,000. 

Hotel du Grand Monarque, magnificent, and of the highest 
reputation : baths attached : English spoken. 

Hotel Belle Yue, extremely good, charmingly placed, and 
reasonable. 

Hotel ]N'uellens. 

Hotel de l'Europe, excellent second-class, close to the Baths, 
private, reasonable, satisfactory. English spoken, 

Dubick's Grand Hotel, opposite the Baths, moderate charges, 
quiet, and recommendable. 

Omnib. or cab, to or from rail, with luggage, 6 sgr. 

The city of Charlemagne. A sulphureous watering-place now, 
135'^ Fahr. Manufact. cloth, and needles to stitch it. 

English Church, in the Anna Strasse. 

Sights — 1. Elisenbrunnen, hot-water spring-house. Close to 

2. The Dom, ' Cathedral,' 796, a noble Gothic : said to have been 
finished by Satan. Close inside, a flag, with the simple words 
' Carolo Magno,' covers the vault of Charlemagne. In the gallery — 
his Coronation Stone. In the sacristy — Romish relics. Close to 

3. Rathhaiis^ on the site of the Palace of Charlemagne's birth. 
In its upper room — magnificently repaired, pillars and corbels most 
striking — the Congress of 1818 met. 

From Aix onward. (A detour is highly recommended 

To Difsseldorf, p. 33, rail, 2^ hrs., p. xlviii. Thence on 
To Cologne^ continued rail, f hr.) 

IJ hr. Cologne, Central station, Ehine, p. 35. 



18. LONDON TO THE RHINE— III. BY ANTWEHP. 

(Full detailS; Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Rhine Guide.') 

From London to Antwerp — • 

\. By Ostend, daily: as preceding Route to Ghent, 10 hours. 
Thence, Pays de Waes rail, IJ hr., p. xlix. 

2. Steam direct^ twice a- week, 18 hrs., page xxxviii. 

3. By Dover, Calais, Brussels, 3f alines, daily, 11 hrs., pages xlvi, 
6, 23, 27. Thence, rail, f hr., p. xlix. 

From Antwer2i to Cologne, 6 J hrs. 
Route and Scenery — Almost the same as the preceding. 

Antwerp— French, Anvers— Pop. 80,000 (16th cent. 200,000). 
Hotel St. Antoine, admirable, one of the finest on the Continent. 



30 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



Hotel du Graxd L.\boureur, Place de Meir, first-class, estab* 
lished, excellent. Baths. 

Hotel du Bien-Etre, close to the Bourse, excellent second-class, 
quiet, reasonable, and recomraendable. 

Booh, Maps, Views, Sfc. — Max Kornicker, well known to the 
English, and long established. 

Phyncian — Dr.'J. Jaques, 3 Rue del' Amman ; of high reputation ; speaks English. 
Exchange-office — M. Michel Kryn, Agent of South Eastern Railway Co., opposite 
Hotel St. Antoine. 

Omnib., h fr. Cab, per course, 1 fr. ; per hr.. If fr. 
Commercial emporium of Europe, 16th cent. Euined by Spanish 
bigotry. 

Sights — 1. Iron Pedestal, by Quintin Matsys, the blacksmith, 
who won his ladye-love by out-doing her father as a painter — ' quern 
Amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem.' Opposite 

2. Cathedral, 13th cent., majestic Gothic. Rubens' ' Descent from 
the Cross' (his chef-d'oeuvre), ' Elevation of the Cross,' ' Eesurrec- 
tion,' and ' Assumption.' Carved-wood pulpit by Yerbruggen. 

.3. Church of St, Jacques : rich, outside and in. Eubens' tomb, 
and ' Holy Family,' representing his own. 

4. Church of St. Paul. Outside : a ^ Calvary,' coloured reliefs of 
the condemned in flames. Inside : fine paintings of the ' Passion ' — 
Rubens' ' Scourging of Christ.' 

5. Church of the Aiigustines. Rubens' ^ Espousals of St. Cather- 
ine,' celebrated altar-piece : Vandyck's ' Ecstasy of St. Augustine : ' 
Jordaen's ' Martyrdom of St. Apollinaris.' 

6. Church of St. Andrew, near Pays de Waes Terminus. Otto 
Yennius ' Crucifixion of St. Andrew.' Portrait of ' Mary Stuart.' 

7. Bourse : a striking Moorish -Gothic structure. Burnt, 1858. 

8. Museum. Admirable paintings (particularised in 'Practical 
Rhine Guide '). — Rubens' Arm-chair. 

9. Zoological Gardens, close to last : pretty and well-filled. 

10. Citadel : famous for its siege by the French in 1832. 

To Ghent direct, p. 27, rail, from Pays de "Waes station, 1^ hr., p. xlviii. 

To Rotterdam, rail, 4 hrs., see next section. 

To Brussels, rail from Station de Bruxelles, f hr., past Malines, as follows. 

1 hr. Malines, p. 27. (To Brussels, ^ hr., p. 24.) Same route on 
as preceding sect. 

6 hrs. Cologne, on the Rhine, page 27 — 29. 

19. LONDON TO THE RHINE— IV. BY HOLLAND. 

(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in 'Practical Rhine Guide.') 

Froju London to Rotterdam — - 

1. By Steam direct, thrice a- week, page xxxviii, 24 hrs. 

2. By Antwerp, preceding Route, 12 hrs. Thence rail, 4 hrs., 
p. 1., li. 

Antwerp, preceding section. Station, close to that for Malines. 

2 hrs. Moordyck. Steam onward, in correspondence. 



THROUGH HOLLAND. 



31 



f hr. Dort, or Dortreclit— Pop, 21,000. 
Here, in 1618, the Protestant Synod affirmed Calvinism, and pro- 
nounced Arminius a heretic. — Depot for the great Ehine-rafts. 
li hr. Hotterdam— Pop. 75,000. 

New Bath Hotel, on the Boompjes (Quai), first-class, great 
attention, trust-worthy, thoroughly satisfactory. 

This is the only Hotel recommended. 
Queer old streets, houses, contrivances, canals, and citizens. 
Sights — 1. Bronze statue to JErasmus, in Market Place. 
2. Birth-place of Erasmus^ in Breede Kerk Straat. 
Cathedral^ St. Laurence, brick. Pine organ. 

From E;Otterdam to Cologne — 1. Direct. 

1. Rail. Rotterdam to Utrecht direct, 1 hr. Utrecht to Co- 
logne, as next route, from page 33, 6 hrs. 

2. Steam. Up : 27 hrs. Down : 19 hrs. Daily. See p. 34. 
From Eotterdam, up the Waal branch of the Rhine, 

Steam — 

18 mis. Bort, or Dortrecht, see above, 
18 mis. Gorcum— Pop. 6000. 

Beyond, the Castle of Loevestein, whence Grotius escaped. 
55 mis. Nymwegen^ — Pop. 18,000. 

Frontier town. Fortified. Situation, rather pretty. Passport. 
13 mis. Emmerich.. — Hence, to Cologne, as from page 33. 

From Rotterdam to Cologne — 2, Detour. 

Rail^ p. 1, li. Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 2| hrs. Amsterdam to 
Utrecht, 1 hr. Utrecht to Cologne, 6 hrs. 

i hr. (8 mis.) Delft— Pop. 15,000. 

Hotel. E'one recommended. 

Sights — 1. Old Churchy burial-place of Van Tromp. 

2. Prinssenhof, close by. Stairs, where William I. of Orange 
was assassinated. The holes from the fatal bullets are shown. 

3. Ne^D Church. Monument to William of Orange. 

J hr. (5 mis.) Hague, Dutch's Gravenhage — Pop. 76,000. 

Hotel Belle Vue, opposite the Koyal Park, first-class, admir- 
ably placed, excellent : the Proprietor is of English extraction. 

Hotel Grande Cour Imperiale, on the Buitenhof, first- 
class, patronised by the highest families, reasonable, excellent. 

Hotel Fuhri, ' Marechal de Turenne,' central, the oldest es- 
tablished, quiet, economical, most satisfactory. 

Carriage, \\ guild, per hr. 

* The largest village in the world.' Residence of the Court. 



32 



THROrOH-EOUTES. 



Sights — 1. Voorhout street, handsome houses, hotels, and 
2. Museum o f medals, etc., 36,000; open from 10 to 2. 
. 3. Binnenlwf. Over its door, Barneveldt was beheaded. 

4. Buitcnhof. Prison of the De Witts — murdered outside of it. 

5. Museum. (^) Paintings^ amongst the finest in the world : parti- 
cularised in ' Practical Rhine Guide.' Paul Potter's chef-d'oeuvre, 
Xo. 117, 'Bull;' 118, 'Cow.' Eemoranclt, 121, ' Dissectors '—su- 
perb. Open from 10 to 3. 

(-) Curiosities. Japanese collection, of immense ranty. 

6. Neic Picture Galleri/, in the Xew Palace ; an invaluable col- 
lection, all of the first order. Open from 9 to 12. 

Exclusions — 1. To 'T Huis inH Bosch, 'the Palace in the 
Wood,' a pretty drive, 4 mis. Frescos, etc. 
2. To Scheveningei}, the fashionable bathing-place, 4 mis. 
^ hr. (10 mis.) Leyden— Pop. 35,000. 
Famous for its siege by the Spaniards in 1573. 
Sights — 1. Museum^ in the Papengracht. Xat. Hist., Birds, 
Compar. Anatomy, finest European collections. Open from 12 to 3. 

2. Museum van Oudheden. Egyptian Antiquities. 

3. Botanical Garden, 7 acres, most scientifically arrang:ed. 

1 hr. (IS mis.) Haarlem— Pop. 25,000 (in 16th cent., 50,000). 
Omnibus to or from rail, 15 cts. iZd.) 

Famous for its siege of 1572 : the very women fought. — Manu- 
fact. cotton, linen, blacking. 

Sights — 1. Church of St. Bavon. Famous organ, 5000 pipes. 
Organist and blower, for a party, 14 guild. 

2. House of Coster, in Gt. Market Place, close by : the originator 
of printing from wood-cuts. 

^ hr. (12 mis.) Amsterdam — Pop. 202.000. 

Br-ICk's Doelex Hotel, Doelenstraat, of the first order and ex- 
cellence. The utmost attention. Perfect cuisine. 

Kr-Etzer's Gr-\xd Doelex Hotel, also called ' G-arnalen or 
Xieuwe Doelen,' central, first-class, large, thoroughly recommend- 
able. 

Vigilantes, per hr., 1 guild. — per course, 13 stivers. 

' The Venice of the Xorth ' — ' a vulgar Venice,' Hood. Built on 
piles : in 1272, a swamp : now, 9 mis. round. Manufact. cotton, 
chemicals, curarao. 

Sights — 1. Museum, in the Kloveniersburgswal. Free, Thursd., 
Frid., 12 to 3 : other days, 10 to 2, 1 guild. Fine Paintings : par- 
ticularised in ' Practical Bhine Guide.' 

2. Kalvers' Straat, great thoroughfare, best shops. 

3. Nieuwe Kerk. Carved Pulpit. Monument to Van Speyk. 

4. Palace. Outside — imposing. From top — capital view. 

5. Tlieatre of Anatomy, in the Xew Market. Curious regiment 
of dissected felons, dressed as living, labelled with their crimes. 



THUOIJGH HOLLAND, 



33 



6. Oude Kerk, ' Old Church : ' 3 magnificent stained windows. 

7. Private Collections of Paintings, numerous and good. 
Excursions — 1. To Broek (pronounced 'Brook')- From the 

' Stads Herberg,' ferry-boat, every hr., fare 4 sti., to 
i hr. Buiksloot — opposite Amsterdam. 
Carriage to Broek and back, 6 guild. 

4 mis. Broek — Pop. 800, tradesmen retired with a fortune. 

The World's caricature-village of cleanliness. 
2. To Zaandam— Pop. 9000. 

1 hr. From the ' Stads Herberg,' steam, 5 times a-day. 

Sight — Peter the Great's House. He worked as a shipwright 

here for 7 weeks. 
1 hr. (23 mis.) Utrecht— Pop. 50,000. 
Hotel des Pays Bas, best. 

Sights — 1. Stadthuis^ 'Town-hall,' modern, large. 

2. Cathedral^ Gothic, fine, ruined. From its tower, a view. 

To Rotterdam, p. 31, rail direct, 1 hr. 

1^ hr. (33 mis.) Arnheim— Pop. 22,000. On the Rhine. 

Hotel Belle Vue, magnificent, best. 

1 hr. (12 mis.) Emmerich— Pop. 7000. 

Hotel Belle Yue, close to the rail, new, clean, best. 

On the Bhine. Prussian frontier. Passports and luggage. 

A good resting-place between Amsterdam and Cologne. 

Excursion — To Cleves, hr. Post, 4 times a-day. 

If hrs. (38 mis.) Oberhausen. Branch-rails 

To all parts of Germany. 

I hr. (4 mis.) Duisburg— Pop. 10,000. 

f hr. (18 mis.) Dusseldorf— Pop. 42,000. 

Hotel Breidenbach, well placed, first-class, excellent. 

Hotel de l' Euhope, close to the Coin, Elberfeld, Minden rails, 
well placed, well kept, and very recommendable. 

Hotel du Prixce de Prusse, convenient, close to the Elberfeld 
and Cologne rails, largely frequented by first-class English, tho- 
roughly recommendable. 

Hotel de Cologne, central to Bails and Steam,'excellent second- 
class, specially recommended to economists. 

Droschky to or from steam or rail, including luggage, 7^ sgr. 

On the Bhine"; 1300 ft. wide. A garrison town, handsome. 

Sight — Permanent Exhibition of Paintings, draivings, etc., the 
finest specimens of the living Dusseldorf School of Art — nearly 600 
Painters. — At E. Schulte's, close to Hotel Breidenbach. Open at 
all hours. On sale. A European lion, worth every delay to visit. 

English Fishing -Tackle of every kind, and miscellaneous ' articles 
de voyage,' — At Feltmann's, Carlsplatz, excellent. 

To Aix-la-Clia'pelle, p 29, rail 2\ hrs. 

f hr. Cologne, passing Deutz, to Central Station, next page. 



34 



THEOUGH-EOUTES. 



20. THE RHINE. 

(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in Practical Rhine Guide.') 

Steamers — average Time and Fares. 

Hours 1st place. 2nd place. 3rd place, 

Down Up Thai. sgr. Thai. sgr. Thai. sgr. 

9 12 Rotterdam to Emmerich 1 12 — 28 — 18 

7 9 Emmerich to Dlisseldorf 1 12 — 28 — 18 

3 6 Dlisseldorf to Cologne _12— 8 — 5 

4 7 Cologne to Cobleuz 1 18 1 2—20 

3 5 Coblenz to Bingen 1 24 1 6 — 23 

2 2.1 Bingen to Mayence — 18 — 12 — 8 j 

Steamer's 1 st place — a little chamber cut off from the usual saloon. 
2?id place — the usual saloon. Srdjjlace — best for the view. 

How-boats everywhere between the banks — fare, 1 sgr. 

Tlie picturesque portion is limited to between Bonn and Mayence : 
the best part, between Coblenz and Bingen. 

The lateral valleys, not seen from the river, are full of beauty. 

Practical Map^ on a thoroughly new plan ; with every possible 
detail ; in ' Practical Bhine Guide.' 

Panorama of the Rhine, illustrated — Various issues, and at various 
Drices, are to be had at all the booksellers, and add greatly to the 
Tourist's interest and information, It is recommended to inspect 
several before selecting one. 

' The Upper and Lower Rhine,' by Mayhew, (Routledge, Lon- 
don,) are the first and finest English works on the subject. 

The Wines of the Rhi^ie and the 3Ioselle are obtainable with 
the best chance of genuineness and fair prices, from the following 
merchants of established reputation — who also transmit them 
direct to England, free of every expense — 

In Cologne — Theodor Metz, Hotel du Dom, very reasonable. 
— Disch and Capellen, Hotel Disch. 

In Coblenz — Hiirter and Son, Wine-merchants to the Prince Regent of Prussia. 
In Kreutznach — Beckhard and Son^ Bankers, 342 Mannheimer Street. 

Geology — The banks formed originally volcanos. An immense 
inland sea subsequently burst through, and made the gorge. 

Historic Associations. — Caesar subdued the Rhine. Charlemagne 
castled it. Fairies haunted it. Feudal Barons plundered the pass- 
ing trader along it, and bickered amongst themselves. In the 13th 
cent., the Hanse Towns reduced the fortresses, whose shattered walls 
still show where once 

' * Power dwelt amidst her Passions.* 



21. COLOGNE TO MAYENCE. 

Bji Steam, up, 14^ hrs. (back, 9 hrs.) By Rail, 4 hrs. ; sit on the" left. For speed 
only, choose the Rail' For the scenery, choose the Steamers. 

(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Rhine Guide.'" 

Deutz station — suburb of Cologne : the Rhine between. 
Hotel Belle Vue, first-class, superb, admirably situated. 



UP THE RHINE. 



35 



Fine view of Cologne across the river. Xew bridge direct from 

the Dutch and German to the Belgian Rail. The trains cross it. 

Cologne, Germ. Koln, Central Station — Pop. 110,000. 

Hotels numerous. None of those by the river-side are recommended ; the 
noise, the commerce, the shipping round them, are intolerable to the quiet-loving 
English. 

Hotel Disch, Bridge St., finely appointed, quiet. This is 
decidedly the best first-class Hotel. 

Hotel du Rhin, Heuraarkt, spacious, well placed, and well 
kept, reasonable, and satisfactory. 

The following are Eecommendable, with much lower prices — 

Hotel du Dom, situated in view of the Cathedral, one minute 
from the Central Railway Station, and opposite the new Rhine- 
bridge ; central to the Curiosities also ; both excellent and very 
reasonable. 

Hotel Clement, close to the steamers, excellent cuisine, anxious 
to please, very reasonable. 

Hotel de Vienne, central, a quiet family-hotel, fixed prices. 

Droschky to or from steamer or rail, 2 persons, 5 sgr. ; each box, 
1 sgr. 

Eau de Cologne^ the famous manufacture — its purveyors legion, 
and all Farinas ! The original and oldest distiller, Jean Maria Fa- 
rina, * opposite the (gegeniiber dem) Jiilichsplatz,' iN'o. 4, a few 
doors from the Place itself, has the best. The 1st prize at the New 
York Exhibition, 1853, was adjudged to him. 

Branch-house, 2 Friedrich-Wilhelm Strasse. 

Views of the Cathedral^ first-class Prize-Medals — Eisen, 2 Fried- 
rich-Wilhelm Str., and 13 Domhof, opposite Cathedral. 

Bureau de change—E. Strauss and J Co., 9 Friedrich-Wilhelm Str. Specially 
recommended. 

Musical Instruments and Circulating ZiSrary— Bernhard Breuer, 97 and 99 
Hochstrasse. Subscription, only 2s. a-month ; and a quantity of music given 
gratuitously. 

Surgeon— Fischer has a wide reputation for his operations, and gentleness. 
He does not visit ; but receives at the Hospital. 
Physician— Dr. Koenig, 105 Schildergasse. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral, 1283, Gothic, unfinished. In the Choir 
— the Sepulchre of the ^ Three Kings of Cologne,' the ' Wise Men ' 
led by the ^ star in the east ' to worship the child Jesus. 

New Museum, magnificent, close to Cathedral. 

2. aS'^. Vrsula^s Church. The Saint being driven up the Khine 
by storm, with 11,000 Virgin Missionaries, the Huns would have 
married them — failing which, they martyred them. Their 11,001 
skulls panel the interior, with other relics equally valuable. 

3. St. Gereon's Church, one of the oldest, decorated, like St. Ur- 
sula's, with the Bones of the Theban Legion. 

4. Apostles' Church, a splendid Romanesque. 

5. St. Peter's Church. Eeliefs of the Passion. Bubens' * Mar- 
tyrdom of St. Peter ; ' inferior. 

Q 



36 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



6. St, Ilarza in Capitolio^ where the Homan Capitol stood. 



Routes from Cologne. 

Advice, — Returning to England by Belgium, take Diisseldorf en 
route to Aix-la-Chapelle — • 

To Diisseldorf, rail, | hour. On to Aix„ rail, 2^ hrs. See p. xlix, li, 29, 33. 
To Berlin, Leipzig, etc. Per Oberhausen, Diisseldorf Rail, as above. 
To Holland, p. 31—33. 

To Brussels, Ostend, Antwerp, etc., p. 24 — 30, rail p. xlix. 
To Mayence, ' up the Rhine,' as follows— 

Here the Rhine is 1300 ft. broad. 

2 hrs. ujo. steam. (1 hr. rail.) r. Bonn — Pop. 23,000. 
Grand Hotel Royal, admirably situated on the Rhine, recom- 
mendable. 

Hotel Golden Stern, good, but the position is much against it, 
being in the town, away from the Rhine. 

Physicians— the following are the most eminent— 

— Dr. Heinrich Wolff, Privv Counsellor in Sanatory matters, Colnstrasse. 
— Dr. Kilian, Privy Counsellor of Medicine, 125 Coblenzerstrasse. 
—Dr. Ungar, near the Coblenz-gate. 

Omnib. to or from steam or rail, 5 sgr., luggage included. 
Sight — MUnster Kir die, 1 2th cent., Gothic. 
Excursions — 1. To Poppelsdorf Chateau, \ ml. Iluseum, etc. 
2. To Kreutzberg Church, \ ml. further ; its stairs said to be 
those of Pilate's Judgment- Hall ! 

From Bonn, — Rail, to Rolandseck, in f hr., passing 
— Godesberg: — Pop. 1000. 
Hotels. !N'one are recommended. 

Beautifully placed. Castle -crowned hill. 1 ml. from the Rhine. 

Prom Bonn, — steam, passing the ' Seven Mountains.' 
\\ hr. up, 1. Konigswinter — Pop. 1500. At the foot of 

• The castled crag- of Drachenfels,' 

* Dragon's Rock,' the loftiest of the Seven Mountains, 1000 ft. 
Hotel de l' Europe, best. 

r. Ruined Castle, built by Roland, Charlemagne's nephew, on 
his return from the Crusades — to overlook the 

Convent of Nonnenwerth, on the island beyond, where, in 
supposition of his death, his betrothed had taken the veil. 

\ hr. up. r. Rolandseck village, charmingly situated. 

Hotel de Rol^^nd, excellent, finely placed, thoroughly recom- 
mendable. 

From hence, the Steamers and Rail run side by side. 
\ hr. up, steam or rail. r. Remagen — Pop. 2000. 
Hotel du Roi de Prusse, excellent, recommendable. 
Behind, Apollinarisberg, Gothic Church, modern, elegant. 



UP THE EHINE* 



37 



ExcTJnsiON — ZTp the Ahr Valley, highly picturesque, 
r. Sinzig— Pop. 1600. 

f hr. up. steam. {\ hr. rail.) r. BroM village. 
Excursion — To the Laacher See, highly picturesque, 
i hr. up. steam. (J hr. rail.) r. Andernach — Pop. 3000. 
One of the earliest Rhine towns. Manufact. millstones. 
Sight — The Dom, 13th cent., Byzantine. At south Portal, re- 
markable bas-relief of the ' Agony,' with awful motto. 
J hr. up. steam. (8 min. raU.) 1. Neuwied — Pop. 5000. 
Cesar's Hotel Wildenmann, opposite the steamers' landing 
and flying-bridge, very good and recommendable, English spoken. 
An economical stopping-place, 
r. Weissenthurm village. Here the Rhine was crossed by the 
Ij Romans, 1st cent., and by the French, in 1797. 
I 1. Bendorf village. 

Excursion — Up the Valley of the Sayn : beautiful, 
r. Pyramid to Marceau, slain in an encounter of the troops of 
the French Republic with the Prussians, 1796. 

1 hr. up. steam. (| hr. rail.) 1. Ehrenbreitstein — ^Pop. 3000. 
Hotel du Cheval Blanc, with garden facing the Rhine, admir- 
ably situated, first-class, quiet, recommendable. At the foot of the 
Sight — Ehrenbreitstein^ ' the broad stone of honour/ an immense 
fortification, capable of provisioning 10,000 men. for 10 years. 
r. Coblenz— Pop. 26,000. 

Hotel du Geant, first-class, spacious and excellent. 

Hotel Belle Vue, near the steamers, first-class, good wines and 

cuisine, quiet, reasonable, and recommendable. 

Hotel de Liege, close to the Railway-station and Moselle 

steamers, extremely good second-class, very reasonable prices. 

- sparkling Mosel Wines and Hock are delivered in England free of all'cliarges, 
from 51*. Qd. — still wines, from 35s. per doz. ; and complete lists of Wines and 
Prices can be obtained by ;letter from M. Hiirter and Son, -Wine-Merchants to 
the Prince Regent of Prussia, Coblenz (and Homburg). 

Mosel IVines — Scharzhofbergerand Griinhauserare specially good. 

The Roman * Confluentes,' here the Moselle and Rhine joining. 

Sights — 1. St. Castor's Church, 9th cent., at the 'Confluence/ 

where Charlemagne's grandchildren met to divide the empire. 

2. Monument, inscribed to the French invasion of Russia, with 

the Russians' cruel approval added. 

Excursions — 1. To Ems, 10 mis., p. 46. Steam to Lahnstein, 

J hr., see further on, whence rail to Ems, ^ hr. 

2. Up the Moselle, beautiful. Steamers, p. 23. 

Cross Routes — l. To Treves and Paris, 3 days, p. 22. 

2. Through the volcanic Eifel to Spa, 3 days, p. 28. 

From Coblenz, the Rhine is indeed ' majestic ' — 

•dells, 

Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, ^ 
And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells.' 

G 2 



38 



THROUGH-EOUTES. 



•| hr. np. steam, r. Stolzenfels, Capellen village and ferry. 
Hotel Schloss Stolzenfels, best. 

The Stolzenfels, * Proud Kock,' a mediaeval castle, restored by the 
King of Prussia ; open to visitors. 
1. Lahnstein — Pop. 2000. 

To Ens, p. 43, rail ^ hr. {Sit on the left.) 

\ hr. up. 1. Braubach— Pop. 1300. 

Marksburg fortress ; its dungeons, etc., worth observation, 
f hr. up. r. Boppart — Pop. 3000. 

Hotel du Miroir, on the Rhine, best, unpretending but com- 
fortable. Proprietor well-informed, speaks English, is acquainted 
Avith English habits, and sells many English articles. 

One of Drusus' 50 Forts. Quaint old houses — of the Templars, 
of the Ritter Schwalbach, etc. Carmelite, and Parish Churches. 
Roman walls. 

Tlie Hydropathic Establishment of Marienherg is a magnificent house, with 
every comfort. It has a perpetual abundant Spring with unvarying tempera- 
tuve, a resident Physician of high reputation, and is open all the year. The 
Grape-cure can also be 'had there. It is a charming resting-place, celebrated by 
Sir E. Buhver Lytton. 

The Hijdropnthic Establishment of Mi'thlbad merits attention, being well kept, 
in a delightful locality. Its apparatus is excellent, under an experienced Phy- 
sician who speaks English. The Water, 10^' Reaumur, never varies in tempera- 
ture. The terms are very reasonable ; and Tourists, who do not need the AVater, 
njay equally well stop there. 

8 min. tip. 1. Liebenstein and Sternberg Castles — *Die 
Briider.' ' The Brothers ' fell in love with the same lady. She 
accepted the younger. He left for the Crusades, and returned with 
a Greek bride. The elder, whose noble nature had respected the 
rights of the absent, challenged him for his perfidy. The fair be- 
trayed reconciled the combatants, and then took the veil at Born- 
hofen Convent, below. 

1. Welmich village. Above it, the Thurmberg Fort ; called the 
* jVIouse ' from the attentions interchanged between it and the ^ Cat ' 
further on. 

I hr. np. r. St. Gear — Pop. 1300. 

Hotel Lilie. 

Hotel Krone, reasonable. 

The Rheinfels Castle frowns above, the largest on the Rhine. 

1. St. Goarshausen — Pop. 900. The ' Katz ' Castle, above. 

Excursion — Up the Schweizer Thai: delightful. 

The river narrows and winds into the cold dark gorge of the 
Lurlei-Felsen — the * Rocks' where the siren * Lurley ' bewitched 
men by her songs. Admirable echo. Splendid walk to 

20 min. up. r. Oberwesel — Pop. 2500. 

Hotel Goldenen Pfropfenzieher, ' Golden Corkscrew/ close 
to the steamers and the town, r., quiet and satisfactory. 
Gothic houses, and Round Tower by the water's edge. 



UP THE RHINE. 



Sight — Liehfrauenkirche, Gothic, rich and admirable. 

r. Schonberg Castle, inhabited in the 10th cent, by Seven beauti- 
ful cruel Flirts — 

Seven rocks, opposite, seen at low water only, represent the Sis- 
ters, whose heart-breaking coquetries Lurley recompensed by trans- 
forming them into congenial stone. Ladies, beware ! 

I hr. up, 1. Caub— Pop. 1800. 

In mid-stream, the Pfalz ('Palatinate') fort, where the countesses 
* of that ilk ' retired for their accouchements, and their lords told 
(toird) the passers to maintain the ' little innocent.' 

^ hr. up, r. Bacharach — Pop. 1800. 

Named from a rock in the river, only visible in dry, grape -pro- 
ducing seasons, whence called ' Altar of Bacchus,' Bacchi ara. 
Sights — 1. Church of St. Werner, florid Gothic, elegant. 
2. St Peter's Church, 12th cent., Byzantine : a good specimen. 
J hr. up. 1. liorcli— Pop. 1800. 

ExcuKSiON — To Schicalhachy p. 47, through the Valley of the 
Wisper, highly picturesque, 5 hrs. walk. 

\ hr. up. r. Reichenstein Buin, above ; and below, 

r. Klemenskirche, Gothic Church ; lonely and exquisite. 

r. Rheinstein Castle — an excellent restoration, everything in 
character, outside and in. Belonging to the Prince of Prussia. 

5 min. up. 1. Assmannsliausen — Pop. 600. 

ExcuusiON — Through the Niederwald, to Biidesheim, horse and 
man, 1 fl. 45 kr. Enchanting views. See next page. 

To Schwalbach, horse-path, p. 47. 

20 min. up. r. Mausethurm, * Mice Tower,' where Bishop Hatto, 
the hoarder of corn in time of famine, is said to have been devoured 
by the vermin that his own granaries engendered. Imagine the 
scene ! — Recent modernisation has destroyed its romance. 

5 min. up. r. Bingen— Pop. 6000. 

Hotel Victoria, near the steamers, large, first-rate, excellent. 
Hotel du Cheval Blanc, near the steamers, established, first- 
rate, excellent. 

Hotel du Geant, Post, particularly recommendable to econo- 
mists : convenient, as supplying post-horses at fixed tarif for Kreutz- 
nach, etc. 

Beautiful, at the gorge of the Rhine and junction of the ISTahe, 
Points of View — 1. From the Klopp, above the town. 
2. From the Rochusherg, \ hr. ascent, carriage -rd. 

Excursion — To Kreutznach, 9 mis. By branch-rail, | hr. 

Kreutznach — Pop. 11,000. Annual visitors, 5000. 

Hotel Adler, * Aigle,' central, nearest the rail, a fine new 
house, open all the year, well appointed, first-class j with 
baths, garden, carriages, etc. 



40 THROUGH-ROUTES. 

Hotel Oranien Hof, first-class, large, well placed in its 
own grounds. 

Physicians— the following- are of the highest reputation and skill — 

— Dr. Engelmann, Royal Prussian Sanitatsrath, Badeworth, speaks English. 

— Dr. Trautwein, Physician Royal of the Baths, understands English. 

— Dr. Stabel, speaks English. 

Bankers and Bureau de change — Beckhard and Son, 342 Mannheiraer Strasse, are 
correspondents of the principal London houses. 

Wine-Merchants and Growers — Beckhard and Son are already well-known to 
many of the highest classes in England, especially for their splendid Sparkling Wines. 

Fashionable watering-place. Picturesque. Cold salt spring, 
containing iodine and bromine in large quantities. Most 
efficacious in female, glandular, and cutaneous diseases, swell- 
ings, etc. 

Now the Rhine expands to 2000 ft., and the heights subside, 
1. Rudesheim— Pop. 2800. 

Hotel Rheinstein, on the Rhine, recommendable. 
Adler Thurm, Hotel and Restaurant, very clean, good, and 
reasonable. 
Hotel Darmstadter Hof. 

Sight — Bromserhurg, ancient castle, massy ; admirably repaired, 
characteristically fitted up, and haunted by a ghost. 

Excursion — Through the Niederwald^ see preceding page. 

To Wiesbaden, p. 47, rail, 1 hr. Branch-rl. to Biebrich,helow, 1 hr. ; to Casteb 
11 hr. 

\ hr. up, 1. Johannisberg village. Prince Metternich's Castle in 
the background, with its precious Riesling grape. 
J hr. up, 1. Eltville— Pop. 800. 

To Schlangenhad and Schwalbach, direct road, p. 47. 

1 hr. up. 1. Biebrich. — Pop. 2000. 

Hotel de l'Europe, admirable, highly recommendable. A 
charming quiet stopping-place, with sweet view and fresh air. 
Sight — Summer -Residence of the Duke of Nassau. 

To Wiesbaden, p. 47, rail, | hr. To Castel, rail, ^ hr. 

I hr. up. 1. Castel, suburb of Mayence — Pop. 2500. 
Hotels. None recommended. The position is against. 

To Wiesbaden, rail, } hr. To Biebrich, rail, } hr. As above. 
To Frankfort, Mannheim, etc., as following section. 

r. Mayence, Germ. Mainz — Pop. 50,000. 
Hotel du Rhin, first-class, best. 

The Hotels at Mayence may be considered to be generally very inferior and very 
dear, and Biebrich, Mannheim, Wiesbaden, or Frankfort, all close by, far better «/o/7- 
piVj^-places. 

Carriage to or from rail or steamer, including small luggage, 
18 kreutz. Per \ hr., 1 horse (2 persons), 15 kr. 

Birth-place of Gutenberg, * the first printer,' 1397. Occupied con- 
jointly by 12,000 Prussian and Austrian troops. Fortified strongly. 



UP THE EHINE. 



41 



Sights — l. Museum: Roman Antiquities, interesting. 
,, 2. Cathedral, 10th — 16th cent., interesting for its antiquity. 
|| ' 3. Roman Tower, ascribed to Drusus, inside the citadel, 
j! Promenade — Neue Anlagen, Public Gardens. Pretty view. 

j . To Mannheim, Paris, etc., as following section. 



22. MAYENCE TO SWITZERLAND. 

(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Rhine Guide.') 

Three ways as far as Heidelberg, viz. 
1st. By the Rhine, to Mannheim, steam, 5 hrs., tame and tedious. 



2dl]/. By Ludwigshafen rail, p. lii, to Mannheim, 2 hrs. 
\\ hr. Worms— Pop. 9000 (formerly 30,000). 
At the Diet held here, Luther defended his doctrines. 
Sights — Cathedral and Synagogue^ antique, 
f hr. Mannheim, Ludwigshafen Terminus — Pop. 25,000. 
Hotel Pfalzer Hop, well situated, central, long-established, 
first-class, of high reputation. 

Hotel de l'Europe, close to the Ehine, steamers, and Ducal 
gardens, first-class, spacious and excellent. 

Hotel du Eoi de Portugal, recommendable second-class, very 
I reasonable : landlord from the ' Trafalgar,' Greenwich ! 

Physician — Dr. Prey, N. 4., No. 15. Distinguished.! 
Apothecaries — the following are the best — 
— Pharmacie Tross, ' Au Cygne,' on the Planken. 

—Pharmacie de la Cour, ' Hofapotheke,' J. Wahle, close to Parade-platz. 
Jewellery — Dangraann, under the Kaufhaus, corner of Parade-platz, close] to 
Pfalzer Hof. Highly recommended. 

Cigars, Tobacco, ^c. — Carl Schacherer, on the Planken, D. 1., No. 7 & 8. 
Paintings of Great Masters, on view and sale, at M. Wahle's. 

Theatre — celebrated : the first Machinist in Germany. 
Sights — Grand Ducal Palace, Jesuits' Church, Synagogue. 
Excursion — To Spires, rail from Ludwigshafen, see above. 

|hr. Spires, Germ. Speyer — Pop. 11,000. 

Hotel dtj Rhin, situated conveniently between the Station and Cathedral, in the 
principal street, first-class, thoroughly recommendable. 

WiTTELSBACHER HoF, Post, first-class, wcll situated for visiting the Dom and 
Antiquities, spacious and excellent. English spoken. 

Sights— 1. Altportel, 'old gate.' — 2. Kaiser Dom, Cathedral, Byzantine, restored, 
fresco'd, striking, the most gorgeous in Germany. — 3. Heidenthurmchen, ' Roman 
tower.' 

Rail continued— To Paris, 15j hrs. Described fully, page 23. 

From Mannheim, Baden-rail on, joining the following, to 
I hr. Heidelberg, see below. 

^rdly. By Taunus rail, p. 1, lii, from Castel station. 

To Darmstadt, there is also a direct rail in 1 hr., not passing 



42 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



1 hr. Frankfort— Pop. 65,000. 

Hotel de Russie, high prices. 

Hotel de l'Union, formerly * Weidenbusch/ first-class, with 
reasonable prices, and excellently kept ; central. 

Hotel Schroder, central, without pretension but very comfort- 
able, clean, and moderate. Landlord has been in the ' Archduke 
Charles ' Vienna, 10 years ; speaks English. 

Hotel de la Yille de Lyon, close to the Romer and Pauls- 
kirche, very good second-class, with moderate prices and celebrated 
for good wines. 

Hotel de Bruxelles, near the rail, extremely good, moderate, 
and recommendable. 

Bankers, #c. — L. A. Hahn, 35 Zeil, opposite Hotel de Russie. Circular note^ 
cashed. Exchange of every sort of money. Bills of exchange, bank-notes, shares' 
' fonds publics,' etc. 

Physicians — the following- are the most distinguished— 

—Dr. Fabricius, M. D., 37 Grosse Eschenheimer-str. 

— Dr. Funck, M. D., Physician to the British Embassy, 26 Bleich-str., has lived long 
in England. He is much consulted with special reference to the German Watering- 
places. 

American Dentist — Dr. J. B. Rottenstein, Dentist to H. H. the Duke of Coburg- 
Gotha, 21 Rossmarkt. 

Pharmacie lost, 1 Theater-platz ; compounds English prescriptions accurately, 
and has quantities of English preparations. 

English Dispensary— M. F. Meyer, 43 Zeil. Trust-worthy. 

English Pharmacy— M.. Engelhard. Of high character. 

Bohemian Fancy Glass and Crystal Warehouse — P. A. Tacchi's Successor, 44 
Zeil. The most extensive and magnificent collection in Europe. The Proprietor has 
his own Manufactories in Bohemia — a manifest advantage to purchasers. Patronised 
by many travellers of every nation, and meriting to be seen by all.— Wiesbaden, a 
Branch-establishment during the season. 

Stags' horn ornaments, Dresden china (dep6t of the Royal Manufactory), Works in 
leather and wood — Bing, Junr., and Co., 31 Zeil, nearly opposite H, de Russie. Whole- 
sale and retail. A vast choice of the most elegant and varied workmanship. (The 
famous ' Ariadne ' in bronze and biscuit-china.) 

Berlin Work, Wool, Beads, Silk, Canvas, ^-c. — Pilot and Son, 35 Zeil, opposite 
H. de Russie. A house of the highest'repute, and vast assortment. 

Parasols, Umbrellas, Paris Gloves, Eau de Cologne, ^c— Hoigne, 13 Bleiden- 
sir. First-rate, fixed prices, and moderate. 

Geneva Watches — C. F. Borle, 61 Zeil, 1st floor. Of the highest possible character, 
worthy of every confidence Well known to the English. Every article is guaranteed. 

Travelling-articles, ^c. — Martin Mohr, 16 Goethe-platz, opposite Goethe's monu- 
ment, is of English origin, and may entirely be confided in for capital workmanship 
and fair prices. Carriages also may be had from him with advantiige. 

Cigars and Tobacco — Netz, corner of Steinweg, No. 1. Importations genuine from 
the Havana. Fixed prices. 

English Books, Panora7nas, Guides, 4'C. — Keller, 37 Zeil, honest. Also stereo- 
scopes and stereoscopic views of great beauty, perfection, and variety. 

Sights — 1. Stddel Museum, Good paintings. 

2. Rothschild's Villa, handsome gardens ; open to appHcants. 

3. Senkenherg 3fuseutn of Natural History ; good. 

4. Bethmann 3Iuseutn of casts, etc. Dannecker's * Ariadne.' 

5. Dom, where the German Emperors were crowned. 

6. Romery where the Coronation Banquets were held. 
Excursions — 1. 2h JFilhelmsbad, rail, \ hr. AVatering-place. 

2. 2h Homhurg^ page 48, rail, 1;^ hr. 



UP THE RHINE. 



43 



^To Wiesbaden, rail, 1^ hr., by Castel, p. 40, 47. 

Rail on to Basle, p. lii. The Termini are all close together, 
f hr. Darmstadt— Pop. 22,000 (50 years ago, 9000). 
Hotel Darmstadter Hof, of old standing, first-rate, spacious, 
with handsome garden, thoroughly well kept. 

Hotel Traube, admirably situated, first-class, excellent. 
Sights — I. Museu7n of Paintings ; some great names. 
2. Museum of Fossils ; of the utmost value. 
Along the Bergstrasse, picturesque. Sit on the left. 
Excursion — Through the Odenwald. Hills, woods, castles. Most 

romantic. Itinerary in ' Practical Rhine Guide/ 
1^ hr. Heidelberg— Pop. 14,000. 

Hotel Schrieder, spacious (100 bed-rooms), so close to the 
Rail, Post, and Telegraph-offices, that no conveyance is necessary. 
Garden. And view of the Castle. 

Muller's Family Hotel, near the rail, full of English com- 
fort, highly recommendable. Single Tourists are equally received. 

Hotel Prinz Carl, in Market-Place, view of castle, excellent. 

Hotel Abler, in the Grand Place, opposite the Castle, comfort- 
able, clean, and moderate. 

.' Houses of Business— 

' Physicians, ^c— the toUowing are the most distinguished— 
—Dr. W. Posselt, 14 Ludwigsplatz ; speaks English. 

' — Dr. Mittermaier, 101 Hauptstrasse, near Carlsplatz; has practised in Ma- 
deira and written on Consumption and Climate ; speaks English. 

— Dr. Wolf, opposite the ' Hirsch-apotheke,' Augustinerstrasse ; understands 
English. 

English Physician— Dr. J. Jones, Member of the R. C. of Physicians, and Fel- 
low of the R. C. of Surgeons, London ; 26 Hauptstrasse. 

Surgeon and Oculist — Dr. Chelius, son, 91 Hauptstrasse. 

Apothecary— Dx. Georg Bucking, 'Hirsch-apotheke,' 14 Hauptstrasse. Of the 
highest standing. 

Jeweller— TrvibneT, Hauptstrasse, is the most recommended. 

Provisions, Game, Hams, Fowl, Fish, Sausages, Pates, ^c— Sulzer, 29 Haupt- 
strasse, has the first and best house. He supplies breakfasts, dinners, etc., to, 
residents in private houses ; and speaks English. 

Havana Cigars, Tobacco— Fdister, opposite the Bad. Hof, is of the highest 
character. 

Prints, Music, ^c.—L. Meder, 42 Hauptstrasse, near Market-place. 

Omnib. between rail and hotels, 12 kr. ; droschky, same, each 
person ; light baggage included, — heavy, 6 kr. each box. 

On the Neckar. Stormed in the ' Thirty years' War,' by Tilly ; 
sacked thrice : bombarded five times : burnt twice. 

Sights — The Castle: magnificent, though a ruin: | hr. up. 

Outside — views from the terrace. Inside — museum of antiqui- 
ties : ' English rooms ' of the Princess Elizabeth, James I's daughter 
wine-tun, the most capacious ever made (800 hogsheads). 

The Gallery of Art in the Frederic's Building— Meder's 'Permanent Exhibition' 
(entry free) of Paintings by distinguished Artists illustrating the Castle and locality^ 
grand Model, Relief, Antiques; etc., should especially be seen. 



44 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



{Up the NecJcar, to Heilbronn, steam, 12 hrs., see p. 46.) 
f hr. Bnichsal — Pop. 7000. Junction. 



From Bruchsal — 1. To Basle. 

Continued rail throughout. 

i hr. Carlsruhe— Pop. 24,000. 

Hotel Grosse, very good, comfortable, reasonable. English 
spoken. 

1 hr. Oos station. Branch-rail (change carriages) for 

10 min. Baden-Baden — Pop. 6000. 

Hotel de Hollande, first-class, admirably kept. 

Hotel Royal, new, well placed, moderate, and good. 

Hotel de la Ville de Bade, extremely good, and convenient, 
being close to the Bail. 

Hotel Yictorl\, a superb house, well situated. 

Hotel a la Cour de Bade, first-class, of high reputation. 

Hotel du Soleil, opposite the New Promenade, good, comfort- 
able, and reasonable. 

Houses of Business— 

Bank and Exchange-office — M. Strohmeyer, close to Hotel de Hollande. 
Circular notes cashed without charge, and all kinds of bank-business transacted 
satisfactorily. 

Physicians— the following are the most distinguished— 
— Dr. Brumm. 

— Dr. Gugert, Privy Counsellor, Physician in ordinary to the Grand Duke of 
Baden, and Physician of the Waters. 

—Dr. Gaus, 49 Lan^estrasse, opposite H. Cour de Bade ; especially skilful as 
Accoucheur and Oculist ; speaks English. 

—Dr. Wilhelmi, 388 a, Leopoldsplatz, next H. de Hollande; speaks English. 

—Dr. Muller, Director of the Hospital, 177 Kreuzstrasse. Especially skilful 
as an Oculist. Well known to the Americans. Speaks English. 

S urgeon- Dentist— M.. Meier, 127 Battengasse, near Daraistadter Hof"; clever. 

Dentist to the Grand Duchess of Baden-Baden— M. Fieux. 

Apothecary of the Court — Ernst Beuttenmiiller, 424 Langestrasse, corner, op- 

Posite H. V^ictoria; has various English medicines, prepares after the London 
harmacopooia, and is highly reconimended. 
Baden Wines, (Markgr after, Alfenthaler, Mauerwein, Klingenberger, &c.) 
export and retail — Feder, Merchant, 116 Langestrasse, keeps the finest qualities ; 
as well as Wines in general, Clarets, Brandy, etc., at reasonable prices. 

Tea, Coff'ee, Groceries, Barclay's stout, general Provisions — Gaus, Purveyor 
to the Court, 101 Langestrasse, has a large stock of the very best articles, and 
speaks English. 

Cigars of the first quality may be had of Gaus, 13 Promenade (Kursaal) and 
101 Langestrasse. 

' Broderies' and ' Dentelles,' Swiss and Nancy Embroideries, and French and 
Brussels Lace-M. Etienne, 38S Leopoldsplatz, beside M. Strohnieyer's Bank and 
H. de Hollande ; a magnificent exposition, and a house of the highest character. 

rai/or*— Schmid and Co., New Promenade, between H. de Hollande and the 
English Church. First-class workmanship, and the best fabrics of London and 
Paris. 

Omnib. to or from rail, 12 kr. Carriage, per hr., 1 horse, 1 fl. ; 
2 horses, 1 fl. 20 kr. Saddle-horse, half-a-day, 2 fl. 20 kr. 
A villa-looking town, fashionable, peculiarly romantic. 



UP THE RHINE. 45 

Sights — 1. Trinkhalle ; magnificent. Admirable frescos of the 
local traditions. Mineral fount, 154^ Fahr. 

2. Conversattonshaus, connected with last by charming grounds ; 
consisting of — Ball, Refreshment, and Gambling saloons. 

3. Neue Schloss, ' New Castle,' 1689 : interesting as one of the 

seats of the Yehmgericht, * Secret Tribunal.' Dungeons. 

Russian Vapour-hath, close by, the only naturally-hot-enough Vapour-bath 
in all Europe. For Gout, Rheumatism, neglected Syphilis, etc. 

4. New Hospital ; a fine building, with garden. 

Walk — To the Alte Schloss, ' Old Castle,' on hill above the town, 
2\ mis. ; a ruin. Picturesque view. Carriage, 2 fl. 

ExcuESiONs — 1. In the Murg Thai, charming scenery. 
2. To Wildbad, 24 mis., through the Black Forest — 
Wildbad— Pop. 1000. Spring, 100^ Fahr. Romantic. 

f hr. Appenweier. Junction. • 

To Kehl and Strasbourg, rail and omnibus, 1^ hr., p. 11, 12. 

J hr. Offenburg, Buffet— Vo^. 4000. 
If hr. Freiburg— Pop. 14,000. 

Hotel d'Allemagne, first-class, spacious, recommendable. 
Hotel Zahringee, first-class, of established reputation. 
Hotel de l'Ange d'Or, in view of the Cathedral, reasonable, 
good, and satisfactory. 
Houses of Business— 

Banking-house— M.. Joseph Sautier. In direct correspondence with the prin- 
cipal English and American houses, and of the highest reputation. Money may 
be advantageously changed here also. 

Physicians— the following are highly distinguished— 

—Dr. Hecker, Professor of Surgery, and Director of Clinic urgery at the 
University. 

—Dr. Beck, Carlsplatz, practises as Physician, Surgeon, and Accoucheur, 
—Dr. Schwoerer. 

—Dr. Schinzinger, Professor of the University; speaks English. 

Apothecary— FTB.nck, Miinsterplatz ; of the highest reputation. 

Gloves, Ladies' articles, Tea, ^c. — Durst, opposite the Post. 

Cigars are to be had , of Durst, opposite the Post, first-rate, genuine. 

Freiburg is beginning to be. much frequented for the Winter by the Eng- 
lish—for its healthy climate, little rain, cheapness of living, and excellent 
schools at nominal cost. 

Omnib. to or from rail, 6 kr. each person, 6 kr. each large box. 

Sight — Cathedral, 13th cent., Gothic, extremely beautiful. 

Excursion — Through the Rollenthal, into Switzerland ; or 

If hr. Basle, Baden station — VPractical Swiss Guide,' p. 49, 51. 

Note. — To Zurich, Baden rail continued without change of carriage, 3| hrs. 
To Schaffhausen, rail and dil., 6^ hrs. See p. 53, 54. 

From Bruchsal — 2, To the Lake of Constance. 

Continued rail throughout. 

\\ hr. Bietigheim — Junction of rail, p. lii, to Heilbronn. 
Cross Route — To Heidelberg, by the Neckar, 8 hrs. ; viz.— 



46 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



1 hr. Heilbronn — Pop. 11,000. 

Hotel Falke, best. 

Down the Neckar to Heidelberg, p. 43, 44. Steam, 7 hrs. 
f Sceiiery — Highly romantic. The places of interest are de- 
tailed fully in ' Practical Rhine Guide.' 
f hr. Stuttgart — Pop. 40,000. 
Hotel de Russie, fine open position, quiet, first-class. 
Hotel JMarquardt. 

' Stutengarten,' stud-ground, formerly, of the Princes of Wiirt- 
temberg. Wine — sparkling [N'eckar, admirable ; only requiring 
to be known, to supersede Champagne. Mr. Albisser, Hotel de 
Russie, delivers it genuine in England at half the price. 

Sights — 1. Schloss, Palace, immense. Open to view. 

2. Stiftskirche, in Alte Schloss Platz ; pictorial situation. 

Excursions — 1. To the Solitude, 6 mis. Splendid view. 
2. To Rosenstein, Royal Villa, 2 mis. Exquisitely placed. 

The rail {sit 071 the right) passes in view of Rosenstein. 

5 min. Cannstadt — A delicious environ of Stuttgart. 

Lovely valley on, strikingly opening upon 

I J hr. Geislingen village. Extraordinarily romantic. 

f hr. Ulm— Pop. 20,000 Prot., 4000 R. C. 

Sights — 1. Minster, one of the ' six first' in Germany. 

2. Rathhaus and Veste, connected by vaults : antique. 

Tame onward : till, before Ravensburg, glorious view, r., of the 
great chain of the Alps : down to 

3f hr. Friedrichsliafeii, on the Lake of Constance. 

Hotel Deutschen Hof, next the rail, excellent. 

Hotel Nestle, ' Swan,' next the pier, excellent. 

To Rorschach, steam, 1| hr. (Rail on to St. Gall, ^ hr.) 
To Romanshorn, steam, 1 hr. (Rail on to Zurich, 2| hrs.) 

(See ^ Practical Swiss Guide,' p. 60.) 

23. THE GERMAN SPAS. 

(Full details, Maps, Plans, &c., in ' Practical Rhine Guide.') 
From Coblenz to Frankfort. Carriage-rd. connecting all. Post, daily. 
From Coblenz to Ems— I. Byroad, 1^ hr.— 2. By steam to Lahnstein, and rail, 1 hr. 
page 37, 38. 

10 mis. Ems— Annual visitors, 6000. 

Hotel Kurhaus, immense ; the price of each room labelled on 
its door ; containin^^ the Baths and Sources. With the P.\nor-\ma 
in connexion. Highest class, excellent. 

Hotel de r)ARMSTADT, of the first rank, next to the Baths and 
Sources, quiet, recommendable. 

Most of the other Hotels are famed for exorbitance. 

Oq the Lahn. In a lovely wooded valley. Springs, three in 
number, in the Kurhaus, 4o — 116° Fahr. 



UP THE RHINE. 



47 



Physician — Dr. Spengler : of great ability, an early investigator 
of the waters, distinguished for his works upon them. 

Sight — Kursaal ; assembly room, gambling-tables, shops. 

To the Rhine, at Coblenz, 10 mis. Carriag-e-rd., p. 37. j 

at Lahnstein, rail ^ hr., p. 38. 

— — ^ at Braubach, 9 mis. Carriage-rd., p. 38. 

Along the Lahn Valley, a magnificent picturesque. ^ 
6 mis. Nassau — Village, with two Castles. 
20 mis. Schwalbach, ' Swallows' Brook' — Pop. 2000. 
Hotel Due de Nassau, best. 

In a narrow valley. Three Springs (iron) * as thick as a horse- 
pond, and the colour of soup ' — invigorating. 

Sight — AllSe-Saal ; promenade, ball-room, gambling-tables. 
Excursion — To Hohenstein Castle, a romantic ruin, 6 mis. 

To the Rhine, at Assmannshausen, horse-path, p. 39. 
at Lorch, 5 hrs. walk, p. 39. 

4 mis. ScMangenbad, ' Serpents' Bath.' 
Hotel Nassauer Hop, best. 

Named from the reptiles that harmlessly infest it. Romantic, 
quiet, aristocratic. Spring 80^ Fahr., — soothing : * dans ces hains^ 
on devient absolument amoureux de soi-meme ! ' 

To the Rhine, at Rudesheim or Assmannshausen, horse-path, p. 39, 40. 

at Eltville, carriag-e-rd., 6 mis., p. 40. 

at Biebrich, carriag-e-rd., 9 mis., p. 40. 

9 mis. Wiesbaden — Pop. 16,000. Annual visitors, 25,000. 

Hotel Victoria, the nearest to the Rail, a very fine house, 
beautifully situated, and excellently kept, with moderate prices. 

Hotel d' Angleterre, close to the Kochbrunnen, (the house 
celebrated by Sir F. B. Head, where he lodged,) has its own Baths 
from the Kochbrunnen, and is quiet, comfortable, and excellent. 

Hotel Abler, close to the Kochbrunnen, large, frequented by 
the German Aristocracy, moderate prices, particularly recommended. 
Baths in the House. 

Hotel Grunen-Wald, central, moderate charges, clean, and 
good. Landlord from the * Crown and Sceptre,' Greenwich ! 

Bath-house * Zum Engel,' close to the Kochbrunnen, particu- 
larly good ; has warm, mineral, and douche Baths ; garden, and 
breakfasts. 

Hotel de la Rose has lately changed its management. 
Hotel des Quatre Saisons". 

Houses of Business— 

Bankers and Bureau de change— M.. & B. Berle, Correspondents of all the 
London Banks issuing circular notes. 

Physicians— the following are the most eminent — 

—Dr. Lewis., M. R. S. C. L. , Wilhelms-hohe, Sonnenberger-chauss^e. 

—Dr. Robertson, Formes Landhaus, top of the Taunus-str. Author of * Wies- 
baden, its baths and beauties ' 

—Dr. Mahr, 7 Schwalbacher-str. ; speaks English. 

— Dr Muller, II Wilhelm-str. ; speaks English and French. 

—Dr. Haas, 27 Louisen-str. 



43 



THROUGH-ROUTES. 



English Dispensary -^Fharm^icie Schellenberg, 32 Langgasse, opposite H. 
Adler and Post-office ; of the highest trust- worthiness. 

Bohemian Fancy Glass and Crystal Establishment— F. A. Tacchi's successor: 
opposite the Theatre. A magnificent display. A branch from the celebrated 
house at Frankfort. , «. , ^ rz 

Fancy-work, Berlin wool Needlework, #c.— Neuendorff, close to Kochbrunnen. 

Clothsy linen, silk, d'c-Rerz, 2 Sonnenberger Thor, near Kursaal. 

A reo-ular town of lodging-houses. Seat of Government of the 
Duchy^of Nassau. Springs, 16 warm, 2 cold. 

Sights — 1. Kochbrunnen, ^Boiling Spring,' 149^ Fahr. — a good 
imitation of chicken-broth. 

2. Kursaal : shops, ball-rooms, gambling-tables. Band. 

3. Heidenmauer, remains of the great Roman frontier wall. 

4. Russian Teinple, modern, beautiful. Foot-path, 20 min. (or 
carriage-drive, 20 min.) 

Cross Route — To Homburg, by Eppstein, Koenigstein, Cron- 
berg. Char-rd. 32 mis. Romantic. 

To the Rhine, at Riidesheini, rail \l hr., p. 40. 
at Biebrich, rail \ hr., p. 40. 

at Mayence (Castel), rail \ hr., p. 40. And on, 1 hr., to 

\ \ hr. Frankfort, p. 42. Thence, rail and omnib. to 
\\ hr. Homburg— Pop. 6000. 

Hotel de l' Europe, immediately opposite the Kursaal, of the 
first order, very comfortable, excellent cuisine and wines. 

Hotel de France, immediately opposite the Kursaal, in one of 
the best situations, excellent and moderate; with restaurant for 
dinners, etc., a la carte, most convenient. 

Hotel de Hesse, opposite the Kursaal, extremely good, with 
moderate prices. 

Hotel d' Angleterre, close to the Kursaal, a large and good 
house, without pretension, and with very reasonable prices. 
Houses of Business— 

Banking-Jiouse and Bureau de change— M.. Wormser, nearly opposite the 
Kursaal and Hotel d' Angleterre, the oldest established at Homburg, cashes 
circular notes, and changes advantageously. 

P/iysicians—the following are distinguished — 

— Dr. Friedlieb. 
'*__Dr. VVilhelm MUller. 

—Dr. Prytherch, English Physician. 

Apothecai^g—Rud\(iev, 'Chemist to the Court,' speaks English. 
IVines of the Rhine and J/ose/— can be obtained best of M. Hiirter and Son, 
Merchants to the Prince Regent of Prussia. 

On the Taunus ridge. Five Springs, of different quahties. 
Sights — 1 . Kursaal : magnificent ball and gambling-rooms. 
2. Schloss Gardens : extensive and handsome. 



SWITZERLAND. 



4^ 



I. THE HOLLENTHAL. 
Freiburg to Schaffhansen. 

Post road. Diligence daily, 11 hrs. Voiture, 2 horses, 60 frs. 

Freiburg, dil. . . dep. 8 15 a.m. ] SchafFhausen, dil. .. dep. 9 — a.m. 
SchafFhausen .. arr. 7 15 p.m. | Freiburg .. .. arr. 7 p.m. 

Coupe, Interieur, Banquette, equally, 9 fr. 70 c. 

Scenery — Most romantic: wooded and watered gorge: Alpine 
panorama. The route is a portion of the Schwartz wald, ^ Black 
Forest.' 

HoUenthal, i. e. * Valley of Hell.' Moreau effected the French 
Army's retreat through it in 1796 : the Austrian General said he 
was not ' devil enough to follow him.' 

Freiburg, p. 45. The beauties of the gorge begin beyond 
7i mis. (2^ stund.) Brandenburg, village — Inn^ tolerable. 
6f mis. (2| St.) Steig, 800 ft. — Inn^ tolerable. Ascent, long and 
lovely, past the Titi See, a charming lake. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Lenzkirch, 3600 ft. — Inn, tolerable. 
Small town, manufacturing wooden clocks and straw-hats. 

New route from Lenzkirch to the Basle, Waldshut, Ziirich Rail, hitherto UU" 
published in any Hand-hook. — Scenery magnificent and unique. 

From Lenzkirch, carriage-rd., r., over the Schranenberg, splendid view, to 
7 miles. Schluchsee lake and village — inns. 

Along the Lake (3 mis.), fine pike-fishing, the river Schwarzach, fine trout-fishing, 
— the Felsenmeer, * sea of rocks,' — to 

7 mis. St. Blasien, small town-^Hotel Weishaar. 

Cotton and iron manufactories. Church, superb Byzantine, with white-marble 
_Choir. And Convent. 

Between St. Blasien and Albbruck, the original old German costumes are most 
strikingly preserved. 

6 mis. Tiefenstein village. Henceforward, new road overhanging the river Alb 
furiously cleaving an abyss, and conducting by six tunnels to 

6 mis. Albbruck railway- station, Avhence rail continued to Waldshut (| hr.), to 
Ziirich (2 hrs.), to Basle {\\ hr.), or to Schaffhansen (5| hrs.), see page 54. 

Advice. — The route must be made from the Lenzkirch side. 

Time and Tarifs, carriage and pair, everything included — 1st day, Freiburg to St, 
Blasien, 20 flor., (sleep) ; 2nd day, St. Blasien to Albbruck, 7 flor. (whence on by rail as 
above, same day). 

— Send luggage direct from Freiburg to Ziirich, Basle, or SchafFhausen. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Bonndorf, village — Inn, tolerable. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Wellindingen, village — Inn, Golden Eagle. 
Ascent of the last hill. On top, glorious panorama of the Alps. 

6f mis. (2|^ St.) Stiihlingen — Inn, tolerable. Swiss Frontier. 

Quit the road 3 mis. short of SchafFhausen, close to 

9 mis. (3 St.) The Rhine Falls— Height, 50 ft. Breadth 
300 ft. The SchafFhausen and Ziirich rail crosses them. See 
below. 



50 



RHINE-FALLS— SCHAFFHAUSEN. 



Hotel and Pension Schweizerhof, formerly Hotel Weber, 
admirably situated opposite the Falls, most comfortable, and 
excellent. New Proprietor, anxious to please. Fixed and moder- 
ate prices. 

English Church-service attached to the Schweizerhof. 

The Rhine-Falls are of comparatively recent formation. No classic writer men- 
tions them. — A lively Briton lately constructed a ship higher up, to be smashed 
in the descent ! 

How to visit the Falls of the Rhine. 

The Falls must really be seen from every point of view^ or no adequate idea can be 
obtained of them,— each point is so distinct. 

Coming from the Hollenthal, above. Stop at Schweizerhof. Thence foot-path or 
carriage-rd. to the Railway-bridge a6oue the Falls, ^ hr. Cross the bridge. Ascend to 
Chateau of Laufen ; down to the Fischetz, etc. ; boat across below the Falls to Chateau 
of Worth ; and foot-pith up to Schweizerhof for the front view. Total, 1^ hr. 

Coming from Schaffhausen. \st i^^az/ (cheapest for a party). Boat down the Rhine, 
gently exciting, to the Railway-bridge, 2 frs., ^ hr. Thence, as above. — 2nd ivay, same 
route, by carriage, 1 horse, 5 frs., driver 1 fr. — 3rd way (quickest). Rail to Dachsen, 
10 min. Thence as follows— 

Coming from Zurich. Rail by Winterthur to Dachsen, IJ hr. Thence, walk to 
Chateau of Laufen, 10 min,, and as 'aforesaid from the Hollenthal by the Fischetz, 
Worth, and Schweizerhof, round to the Railway-bridge. 

The Chateau of Laufen, above the Falls, open to Visitors, contains Swiss Paint- 
ings in body-colour ,by special Artists, magnificent : and the Kanzeli and Fischetz, 
the two best points of view for a just appreciation of the real grandeur of the Falls, 

Boat across, below the Falls, 30 c. each person — return, 20 c. 

The Chateau of Worth, below the FaUs, contains a 'dark room' from which 
the effect of the whole scene is very striking. Entry, ^ fr. 

Fishing, first-rate. The salmon, trout, etc., mounting the Rhine, are arrested here. 
The proprietors of the H. Schweizerhof and H. Bellevue have the exclusive right of 
it, — and supply all Angling-necessaries to their guests, who alone share the privilege, 
without charge. 

Excursion— 7b the Isle and Convent of Rhinnau, charming. Boat, ^hr. 

To Schaffhausen, recommended in every case to be seen, 10 minutes only by rail — 

3 mis. (1 St.) Schaffhausen— Pop. 7000 Prot., 500 R. C. 

Hotel de la Couronne, near the Station, has been recom- 
mended as good, clean, attentive, and moderate. Landlord speaks 
English. 

Hotel du Cygne, (Schwan,) Post, in an open situation, con- 
venient to the Rail and Diligences, is of established reputation, 
good, and moderate. 

An antique town : its name, ' ship-houses,' conveys its origin, 
cargoes being obliged to be landed here in advance of the Falls. 
Overtopped by the * Unnoth,' old Roman Fort, repaired A. D. 1564. 

Routes from Schaffhausen. 

To Basle, dil. and rail, (!>\ hrs., p. 53. | To Constance, steam, 3| hrs., p. 55. 
To Zurich, rail, 2 hrs., p. 55, 61. | To St. Gall, rail, 3^ hrs., p. 61. 



BASLE. 



51 



II. BASLE. 

Or Bale, French. Basel, German. 

Pop, 23,000 Prot, 5000 R. C. Manufact. ribbons. 




Station (Baden Rail) 



To Baden-Baden 



The River 



Fountain * 



To bchafFhausen 



Rhine 



— B — 

Museum 



□ _ 

Rathhaus Post 
^ Spahlen-thor 

Missionary □ Institute 
Paris Rail — — — — 



Cathedral 



-To St. Jacob 
and 
Val Moutier 



New Station 



— —Swiss Rail 



Hotel des Trois Rois, first-class, a superb house, finely situ- 
ated on the Rhine. English Church-service in it. 

Hotel du Sauyage, near the Post, central to the Rails, first- 
class, long-established, comfortable, frequented by English and 
Americans. 

Hotel de la Cigogne (S torch), central, quiet, a first-class 
family Hotel, with a new and experienced Proprietor. It has a 
live Stork and other monsters. And is a very good house. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, recently fitted up, fronting the 
Rhine, in fine view of the Cathedral and City, quiet and mo- 
derate. The situation is capital. 

Hotel de l'Ours Noir, near the Baden rail, newly arranged, 
fair, very reasonable. Landlord from the * Lord Warden,' Dover ! 
Specially recommended to economists. 

Hotel de la Tete d' Or, well placed, view on the Rhine, land- 
lord anxious to please, economical ; good cuisine. 

Cafe -Restaurant, after the Parisian type — A. Victor Pfander, 
close to the Rhine-bridge, terrace, with view on the river. Re- 
freshments ; superior wines ; Galignani, Illustrated London News, 
our old friend Punch, and other French and English Papers. 

Cabs and Omnibuses— see page liv. 

Houses of Business — 

Physician — Dr. de Wette, 1014 ^Eschen-vorstatt, speaks Eng- 
lish. 

Apothecary — Huber, opposite the Rhine-bridge, best. 

Sculptured Swiss Wood-work, Ivory ornaments, Toys — Pernaux, 
nearly opposite the Post, No. 1622, recommendable. English 
spoken, 

^ 



52. 



BASLE. 



Charts in relief— Georg, near the Post, has most perfect ones. 

Modes, Ladies'* fashmis, Sfc. — Mechel-Heusler, in the Fischmarkt„ 

'English Travelling and Toilette articles^ and various useful odds 
and ends— Christoph von Christoph Burckhardt, near the Post. 

Cigars, Tobacco — F. Wortmann, Place du Marche, close to the 
Bank, best. 

Baths — Warm, 1 fr. ; Cold, \ fr. Entry close to Cathedral, 
Reading'-room, ' Societe de lecture '—close to Cathedral, free, 
on introduction of landlord. 
English Church. Service in Hotel des Trois Rois. 

Situation — On the Rhine ; here, 700 ft. broad. Bridge 
across : good view from it. 

History — The Roman * Basilia.' Famous — under the Papacy, 
for its Council, see below; under the Reformation, for its pious 
pretensions and exorbitant usuriousness ; thenceforv/ard, for the 
extreme ordinariness of its inhabitants from their continual fami- 
ly-inteiTnarriages to retain their wealth amongst themselves , 
and at present, for a tough fuzzy cake called ' leckerh.' 

Here, Holbein worked, and got £4 a year pension for his me- 
rits ; CEcolampadius preached j and Erasmus wTote. (His tomb is 
in the Cathedral.) 

Sights — 1. Cathedral, a.d. 1010, Byzantine: destroyed by an 
earthquake, 1356 : and rebuilt, Gothic. Remains of the former 
era — the Porte de St. Gall, decorated with reliefs of our Lord, 
the Wise and Foohsh Virgins, statues of the Evangelists, &c. ; 
subterranean crypt ; various capitals, friezes, &c. The styles of 
the two eras are united in the Choir. The Grand Gothic en- 
trance is surmounted by the Virgin and Child, the Emperor 
Henry II its founder, and the Empress Helena ; the side entrances 
by St. George and St. Martin, its patrons. — Above the Choir is 
the Council Hall of 1431, where 500 Romish Ecclesiastics as- 
serted the inferiority of Popes to Councils, and elected Felix V. 
In this ' Conciliums Saal ' now is Holbein's ' Dance of Death ' — 
existing at the time of the Council, 80 years before Holbein's 
birth ! (Sacristan, \ fr.) — Cloisters, r., outside, quaint, 450 years old. 

2. Flatform, ' Pfalz,' behind the Cathedral — splendid view of 
* the wide and winding Rhine,' 80 ft. below\ 

3. Museum — rich in Holbein's paintings, and modern ones of 
merit. Admission, 1 fr. (Free — Sunday, 10 to 12; Wed._, 2 to 
4 o'clock.) 

In Vestibule: 87 designs of Holbein, covering the whole wall to the left. — 
Jn 1st room: Holbein's painlings 'The Passion ' in 8 compartments,— the 
Elector of Bavaria offered 30,000 flor. for it, in 1C41. 'Dead Chri«t/ wonderful- 
drawn from a drunken Jew drowned in the Rhine. — In A other rooms: Modern 
Paintings, by Calame, etc.—//? the Bibliotkrque : MSS. of the Reformers; Eras- 
mus's • Praise of Folly ' with Holbein's sketches. 

4. Rathhaus, 'Hotel de Ville,' Burgundian architectm-e, 1508; 



BASLE. 



5S 



restored. In the court, statue (1580) of the Roman Munatius 
Plancus, presumed founder of Basle, B. c. 27. 

5. Fountain of the \Ath century^ opposite Hotel de la Cigogne. - 

6. Spalen-thor, ' St. Paul's gate/ 1400. A fine mediaeval rem- 
nant. 

7. Training Institution for Protestant Missionaries. 

8. St. Alban's Cloisters, mediaeval, J hr. farther than Cathedral, 
along the Rhine. 

Excursions — 1. To the Battle-field of St. Jacoh, \ ml. on the 
Yal Moutier road; where 1310 Swiss met 30,000 French under 
Louis XI, then Dauphin, and perished to the last 10 men. 
1 mile further, at the Church of St. Jacob, is their tablet — ' Our 
souls to God, our bodies to the foe. Here fell, on 26 August, 
1444, combating France and Austria, 1300 Confederates, uncon- 
quered, weary from conquering.' 

St. Margaret, a smaU hill, with pretty view, is near St. Jacob ; 
20 min. from Basle. 

2. To the Battlefield of Dornach^ carriage-road, 6 mis., \ ml. to 
the 1. of Val Moutier road: where 6000 Swiss defeated 15,000 
Austrians, July 22, 1499. The Bone-house is yet filled w4th the 
blanched remains of the *one red burial' in which both were 
' blent.' 

3. To Augst, the Roman * Augusta Rauracorum,' b. c. 27. 
Rich in Roman remains. Carriage-rd., 6 mis. (4|- mis. from 
Rheinfelden, rail, next section.) 

The above are on the Swiss side of the Rhine ; the following is 
on the Baden side- — 

4. To the Castle of Rotteln — charming view over the Black 
Forest hills. Carriage-road, 7 miles. Best taken thus— (time, 
-walking:) By Haltingen to Rotteln, I hr. ; back by Tlillingen 
hill, splendid view, 1 hr. ; thence to Basle, 1 hr. — Carriage, 2 
horses, f day, 15 fr. 

Rotites from Basle. 

To Paris, \>. 10—12. | To Bienne— by the Val Moutier, dil. lOj 

To Baden-Baden, the Ehine, &c., p. 44. hrs. ; by Olten, rail, 4hrs. ; p. 134. 

XMcer??e, rail, 4 hrs , p. 81. I. To Geneva, in continuation, 1 day, p. 

To Berne, by the Val Moutier and | 131. 
Bienne, dil. and rail, 13 hrs. ; by Olten, I To Italy, Milan, 31 hrs.— by Lucerne, p. 
rail, 4 hrs. ; by the Oberhaueustein 81, 89, 92; by Zurich, p. 54, 65, 67, 72, 
■andSoleure, dil. and rail, 7|hrs. ; p. 128. | 73, 185, (and 96—98). 

See following sections also. 

III. BASLE— SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

Rail and dil. 6| hrs. Map, p. 65. 
Scenery — Gently interesting. 

Basle, preceding section. Baden-Baden rail and Station. 

Augst, see above, is visible across the Rhine, r, ^ , 

H 2 



54 



BASLE — SCHAFFHAUSEX — ^ZURICH. 



f hr. (10| mis.) Rheinfelden — raised from the ruins of Augsty 
page 53. Here the Rhine makes a whirlpool named Hollenhaken, 
and the Brewery makes a beer well spoken of — both are ' mild/ 

The road ascends the Botzberg, 1760 ft., where the Roman 
Caecina and the ^legio rapax ' (Tacitus) defeated the Swiss, A. D. 79. 

f hr. Lauffenburg', Pop 900. Here, the last Lord Montague 
perished in the rapids, the same day his Family-house in Eng- 
land (Cowdray, Sussex) was burnt to the ground. 

Alhhruck station (for New Route from Freiburg^ see page 49). 

\ hr. Waldshut Junction. Hence to Schaffhausen or to 
Ziirich — 

To Schaffhausen, p. 50, diligences, in 5 hrs. Rail in con« 
struction. It is therefore better at present to take Ziirich first, 
as follows. 

To ZUrichy branch-rail, If hr., by Tur^ and Baden, following section. 



IV. BASLE— ZURICH. 

Direct route to Italy. 
Is^ way. By Waldshut, Rail throughout. 3J hrs. (Express, 2 hrs.) 

Basle, Baden-Baden Station — \ 
to ( As in preceding section. 

li hr. "Waldshut — Branch-line T (See also page 45.) 
hence. ) Map, p. 65. 

f hr. Turgi — Hence as below. 

2nd way. By Olten, Rail throughout. 4 hrs. 
Hiis is the more interesting way ; for it takes en route the pic- 
turesque Hauenstein, and the celebrated Schinznach, and its 
great historic Sights. 

Basle, Swiss Station, p. 51. ) -d i ^ f\^^ oi 

lihr. Olten-CentoalJunction.1 Basle to Olten, p. 81. 
I^ hr. Schinznach — 

i hr. Brugg— I Olten to Turgi, p. 128, 129. 

5 min. Turgi, see below — j 

From Turgi to Ziirich. 

Kail common to both the aforesaid routes : as follows— 

Turgi— Junction of Swiss Central Rail with Baden-Baden 
Rail (see ' Waldshut' above). 

\ hr. Baden ('baths') on the river Limmat— Pop. 3000. 

Hotel Freihof, first-class, on the Limmat, charming views 
from it, moderate prices. 

Hotel Schweizeriiof (formerly Rabe, * Corbeau,') newly 
enlarged and arranged, charming saloon with view on the river, 
baths in the house, good wines and cuisine, anxious to please, first- 
class, excellent. 



BADEN-EN-SUISSE. 



55 



Hotel Hinterhof, a vast house, spacious baths, promenades 
on the river, well kept, highly recommendable. 

Hotel Staadthof, first-class, best society, large, quiet, baths 
in the house; music, reading-rooms, &c.; of established reputation. 

Physicians of the Baths — the most distinguished are — 
— Drs. Minnich, father and son, M. D. and Surg-. 

— Dr. Stephani-Voirol ; is of old family, and the only Protestant M. D. here. 
Dentist— K. Henry Schnebeli. Skilful. 

Tourists begin to discover that Baden is worth a delay. The 
Romans discovered this long ago — it was their Aquse Helveticse, 
—see Tacitus I, 68. In the Middle-Ages it was the most frequent- 
ed of all the Germanic Spas, the residence of the House of Austria 
and numberless Ambassadors. Without the gambling and racket 
of its great German namesake with the reduplication, its quiet 
waters are of the highest virtue : in Catarrh of all sorts, Indura- 
tion of the glands. Female diseases, Eheumatism, Arthritis, Frac- 
tures, Debility, &c., and in making the skin as smooth as those of 
Schlangenbad : same class as Ems, Carlsbad, Wiesbaden, Aix: 
alcalic, muriatic, sulphureous, and gaseous: Thermal, 123o Fahr. 

Sight — Stein zu Baden, vast ruined Castle of the Princes of 
Habsburg, commandingly placed. 

Views — charming. A capital head-quarters for Excursions, 
p. 128, 129. 

Geology — The whole district between this and the Alps indi- 
cates its having been originally an immense reservoir of the 
mountain-rivers, which here burst finally through one of their 
narrow gorges. 

I hr. Zurich, Railway-station, page 51. 



V. SCHAFFHATISEN— ZXJRICH. 

Rail, by Winterthur, p. 61 and 50. 2 hrs. Map, p. 65. 

VI. SCHAFFHATJSEIT— CONSTANCE. 

Three routes, all picturesque. 

1. By the German side of the Rhine, but away from it : post-rd., 
33 miles. Railway in progress. 

2. By the Swiss side of the Rhine, and close to it: post-rd. 
28 mis. bil. daily, in 5 hrs., 4 fr. 60 c. Passing the same places as 

3. By the Rhine : Steamers, generally twice a-day : average 
time — 

Schaffhausen to Constance, up—i hrs. | Constance to Schaffhausen, down — 3 hrs. 
Fares : 1st pi. 4 fr. 20 c. ; 2nd pi. 2 fr. 80 c. 

Schaffliausen, page 50. 

6 mis. (2 stund.) Diessenhofen, r. where the French crossed 
under Moreau, in 1800, advancing to Hohenlinden. 



56 



SCH.\FFHAUSEX — CONSTANCE. 



5i mis. (If St.) stein, 1. The Castle of Hohenklingen above. 
7i mis. (2| St.) Steckborn, r. famous for nothing. But follow- 
ed by the Castles of Sandegg, Salenstein, and Arenenberg, r. 

Arenenberg belongs to the present Emperor of the French. He lived here 
12 years. His mother, Hortense, died here. It contains painted furniture, etc., 
of Marie Antoinette. 

The Isle of Reichenau, 1. 

7i mis. (2f St.) Gottlieben Castle, r. Huss's prison, p. 59. 
2^ mis. (t St.) Constance, page 59. 

VII. ZiiEICH. 

Pop. 17,000 Prot., 1600 R. C. Manufact. silk, iron-work. 

Or the Lake and river Limmat. The position towards the Alps is of exquisite 
beauty. Capital as a Head-quarters for Excursions. See Map, p. 65. 

From the Railway-station to the Hotels and Steamers — by Omnibus, 40 c. 
luggage extra, — large' box, 20 c. ; bag. To c. Walking, 12 min. ; broad rd. to the 
r ; first foot-path to the 1.; along the river ; across bridge; and along the 
Quai. 

Hotel Baue, opposite the Post, excellent. 

Hotel Baur au Lac, same proprietor, magnificent salle-a- 
manger, charming garden on the Lake, in full \aew of the Alps, 
quietly, sw^eetly situated. Advantageous arrangements made in 
case of longer stay. 

Hotel Bellevue, a new large house, just opened, fine view of 
the Lake, may be recommended from the established character of 
its landlord. Good ' Pension ' from Oct. I to June 1. 

Hotel de la Colteioxne, facing the Lake, fine view from Bel- 
vedere, excellent service. Highly reported of. Moderate prices. 

Hotel Sch\veiit, good. 

Tuggener's Hotel axd Pension, quiet, fine view on the Lake, 
garden, and bathing, anxious to ple'ase, prices very moderate. 

Physicians— the following are of the highest distinction — 
—Dr. Rahn-Escher, speaks English 
—Dr. Arnold Cloetta, speaks English. 

— Dr. Friedrich Ernst, Professor, near the Hohe Promenade. 

— Dr. Griesinger, Professor, formerly First Physician of the late Viceroy of 
Egypt, at M. Ottiker's, Oberstrasse, and at the Hospital from 3 to 5 p. m. ; speaks 
English. 

Agent for commissions of all kinds — M. Wohrn, on Cathedral-terrace Haus 
IMiinstergarten, 233 a, 3rd floor; is married to an English lady, and speaks Eng- 
lish perfectly. Baggage, c^-c, may be forwarded to his care. Lodgings, Fillas,&:c., 
procured satisfactorily by him. 

The following houses to which an asterisk is prefixed are in the Neuen 
Tiefenhof, a fine Duilding, nearly opposite Hotel Baur. 

* Travelling-articles, Bags, Trunks, Saddlery, ^-c— Brunner, first-rate work, 
moderate prices. 

* Fishing-materials, Hardware (English, French, and German ' Quincail- 
lerie'), C/ji/?a andCrystal ornaments, ^-c. — Biich, D€p6t of the Orfevrerie Cristofle. 

*■ Schwarzenbach-Tuchof. A vast assortment, wholesale and retail. 

The Zilrich silk-manufacture is as important as that of Lyons. 

Jf'rellery, Orfevrerie, Bijouterie— \Vci\chev, 90 k Miinsterhof, long establish- 
ed. Special for setting stones. He purchases and exchanges. 



ZURICH. 



English Dispmaary. J. H. Kerez, 141 Wein Platz, next to Hotel Schwert. 
Prescriptions carefully compounded. Patent medicines, and Toilet-articles. 

Siviss Views, Panoramas, Handbooks, c^c.—H. F. Leuthold, opposite the Post. 
•Quantities of such Travellers' articles. And, above all, the best Map of Switzer- 
land. (A smaller edition of the admirable large Map has been newly issued.) 

Watch-maker and repairer — Bodler, Storchengasse, near Miinsterhof ; gua- 
ranteed work, trusty. 

Siviss songs, Music, Musical instruments— Fries and Holzmann, close to 
Cathedral. A vast quantity, for sale or hire. 

Optical and Mechanical instruments. Stereoscopes with Swiss views, 4'C. — 
Ulrich, 90 k Miinsterplatz, has a great variety, and^s the best. 

Boots, shoes, goloshes— WdiXter, 'to the Sommerau, auf Dorf.' All sorts, well 
made and repaired. 

: Cigars, Tobacco— Blind, Miinsterhauser, close to the Miinster- bridge. First- 
'rate, importing only the best descriptions 

Cigars, Tobacco— Kuhn, on the Upper Quai, under H. Bilhartz, has real 
Havana brands, and speaks English. 

• Reading'-room, at the Museum: strangers free on introduction. 
Letters to England arrive the third day. 
English Church. Service, Sundays, at St. Anne's. 



To Basle, Lucerne, ' The Platz 

Berne, &C. « . _ — i-aaNzan 

Eailway-staiion 



St. Anne 

Botanic 
Garden 



To Eomanshorn, Schatfhausen, 
The * Weid St. GaU, Bagatz 

□ Asylum 



Uetliberg 

Hotel Baur au Lac □ 
fhe'Lake' 




Steamers * 



- History — The Roman ^ Turicum,' Here the Swiss Reformar 
tion began, under ZwingH, 1519: Coverdale's 1st Enghsh Bible 
was printed, 1535 : the English Reformers refuged in the reign of 
Mary: the French and Russians fought, Sept. 1799, and the ami- 
able Lavater was shot by a French soldier — he knew, but refused 
to identify, his murderer. 

From the Hotels and Steamers. 
Sights — 1. (7a^/te<Yra^, * Gross Miinster,' date doubtful : simplest 
Byzantine architecture : where Zwingli preached. 

2. Girls^ School attached to it, remarkable for its beautiful cloi- 
sters, quaint eloquent corbels, &c. 

3. Town Librajy, by the Miinster Bridge — large collection cf 
books, letters of Lady Jane Grey, Frederic the Great, Zwingh, &c. 
and Miiller's admirable Swiss panorama in relief. Fee, I fr. 

4. IVie Hohe Promenade, — finest view of the Lake, etc. 

5. Church of St. Augustine. Some excellent paintings of the 
Swiss Deschwanden. [Roman Catholic service celebrated here.) 

6. 21ie Lindeyihof, close to preceding; a terrace, 125 ft. high, 
planted with limes, * bonnes,' and babies. 

7. Cemetery of St. Anne^ where Lavater rests. 



58 



ZURICH. 



8. The Botanischer Garten, 12 min. walk through the town, 
pretty. A mound in it, called 'the Katz,* yields a good view. 

9. The Fhtz, or ' Biirgergarten/ 10 min. further, close to the 
Railway Station, alongside the Limmat, at its jmiction with the 
Sihl. Here is the poet Gessner's Tomb {denhnal). 

Excursions — 1. To the UetUberg, 2800 ft. — auherge on top. 
2 hrs.' walk (or |hr. to the base; muleup,4frs.) Charming view. 

2. To the Greiffen-See, a picturesque lake, 5 mis. long. Rail- 
way, coasting it, to Uster station, f hr. — On, in continuation, 

3. To Rapperschwyl, on Lake of Ziirich, rail \ hr. more, p. 66. 

Routes from Ziirich. 



To Baale — by Olten, rail, 4 hrs. ; by 

Waldshut, rail, 3^ hrs. ; p. 54. 
To Schaffhnusen, rail, 2 hrs., p. 50, 55. 
2"o Frankfort—by Waldshut, rail, 11 

hrs., p. 42—45, 54;— by Friedrichshafen, 

rail and steam, 12 hrs., p. 42—46, 59, 60. 
To Romanshorn, rail, 2f hrs.. p. 61, 60. 
To St. Gallen, rail, 3| hrs , p. 61. 
To Italy, p. 65, 67, 72, 73, 185 (& 96—98). 
To Ragatz, by Toggenburgr, p. 67. 
by St. Gall and theKheinthal, 

rail, 6| hrs., p. 61, 63. 



To Ragatz, by the Lakes of Zurich and 
Wallenstadt, steam and rail, 4A hrs., p. 
65, 67. 

To Lucerne — ^by Albis, dil.,6J^hrs., p. 79. 
by Horgen, steam and omnib. 

5| hrs., p. 80. 

— by Olten, rail, 4i hrs., p. 80. 

To Stachelberg, steam, rail, and dil., 

hrs., p. 70. 
To Zug, and the Rigi,ip. 79, 80. 
To Schinznach, Aarau, Soleure^ BernCi 

p. 128. 



VIIL EASTERN SWITZERLAND. 

A little explored, but most interesting district. j 

Easily seen,and worth seeing. Thus — From Ziirich — | 

\st day. Rail to SchafFhausen, 2 hrs. Steam to Constance, 3f j 

hrs. Steam to Rorschach, 2^ hrs. Rail to St. Gall, \ hr. ' 

2nd day, Dil. to Appenzell, 2\ hrs. Voit. to Weissbad, \ hr. | 

Walk to the Wild-Church and back to Weissbad, 5 hrs. | 

^rd day. Either : back to St. Gall, 3 hrs. Rail to Ragatz, 3| j 

hrs. {or Dil. to Wattwyl, 4J hrs. ; and next day through the Tog- | 

genburg to Ragatz, 8 hrs.) j 

— Or: Voiture over the Stoss to Altstatten, 3 hrs. Rail to | 

Ragatz, 1^ hr. I 

—Or .• Foot-path over the Kamor to] Riithi, 5 hrs. Rail to i 
Ragatz, 1| hr. 

Omitting Schaffhausen and the Lake of Constance, a day less. , 

\st day, Zurich to St. Gallen, rail, 3^ hrs., and on to Ap- | 

penzell as 2nd day, above. | 

2nd day, as 3r j day, above, i 

From Ragatz to Zurich back again, by the Lakes of Wallenstadt : 

and Ziirich, 4^ hrs. ^ 

See Sections immediately following. ' ! 



EASTERN SWITZERLAND. 



59 



IX. ZURICH-CONSTANCE. 

1st way. 4i hrs. Interesting. Rail to Romanshorn, 2i hrs. 
Lake steamer to Constance, 1| hr. Page 61 and next section. 

2nd way. 5f hrs. More interesting. Rail to SchafFhausen, 
p. 55, 61, 50, and Rhine steamer to Constance, following section. 



X. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

Germ. Boden See, 42 mis. long, 9 broad, supplied by the Rhine. 
Quite worthy of being visited for its general effect. The best 
views of the Vorarlberg Alps are between Rorschach, Bregenz, 
and Lindau. 

Steamers constantly in all directions. Map, p. 65. 

Pishing — excellent: near Constance: best from April to June. 

BADEN-BADEN TERRITORY. 

Constance, Germ. Konstanz — Pop. 5500 R. C. 

Hotel de l' Aigle, first-class, well placed, convenient to the 
Lake, large well furnished rooms, great comfort, most highly re- 
ported of. Advantageous Pension. 

Hotel du Brocket, first-class, opposite the Harbour and Lake, 
excellent. A capital Pension for a stay. 

Hotel de la Couronne, near the Lake, very good second-class, 
clean, attentive, very reasonable. 

Sights and Associations, in historical order — 

John Huss (so named from Hussinecz, his natal village in Bohemia)espoused the 
Reformation and was cited, under a safe conduct, to the Council at Constance- 
it collected here 100,000 persons. 

L Hmss's lodging (he complained of it costing him 1^. a- week) 
— ^2nd house from the Schnetz-thor, Gate towards Switzerland, 
his picture outside. 

He was soon deprived of liberty. His 1st prison, for three months, in an attic 
ofGottlieben Castle, p. 56, is still "visible. 

2. Huss^s '2nd prison, for four months— in the Dominican Con- 
vent, now a * Rothe-fabric,' Red-Kerchief factory, is shown. 

3. Conciliums Saal, close to the steamers, where the Council 
sat from 1414 to 1418, decreed the superiority of Councils to 
Popes, deposed two, and elected Martin V. instead, and interdict- 
ed the Communion-Cup to the laity. — Curiosities, model of Huss's 
2nd prison, etc., worth seeing, 1 fr. 

4. Cathedral, 1408 : entrance, very imposing. Here Huss 
pleaded before the Council, July 6, 1415, and was condemned. 



60 LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

5. Field of Briihl, outside the west gate, 1. of Zurich rd. 
Here Huss was burnt, and Jerome of Prague a year after. 

6. Mile. Mlenrieder' s studio — her sacred Paintings celebrated 
through Germany — pohtely open to visitors : opposite Hotel du 
Brochet. 

Excursions— 1. To Gottlieben Castle, p. 56, and see p. 59; 2| mis,, steam or 
drive, | hr. 

■ 2. To Arenenberg Castle, hr. further, see p. 56. 
3. To the isle of Mdnau, drive ^ hr. ; lovely views. 

Steamers— 7(9 Schaffhausen, S hvs., -p. 55. To Romanshorn, llhv,; Rorschach, 
2\ hrs- ; Liudau or Bregenz, 3^ hrs. To Friedrichshafen, 1^ hr. 

RIGHT SIDE. SWISS TERRITORY. 

Bomansliorn. 

To Zurich, page 61, rail, 2f hrs. 

Steamers — To Constance, Ik hr. To Rorschach, 1 hr, ; Lindau, or Bregenz 
2 hrs. To Friedrichshafen, 1 hr. 

Arbon. Traces of the Roman Military way, p. 129. 
Rorschacli — Hotel Hirsch. 

To St. Gallen, p. 61, rail, \ hr. To Ragatz, rail, 3 hrs., p. 63. For Ttaly. 
Steamers— To Romanshorn, 1 hr. ; ConMance, 2^ hrs. To Friedrichshafen , 
\l hr. To Lindau or Bregenz, 1 hr. 

LEFT SIDE. WURTTEMBERG TERRITORY. 

Friedrichsliafen — 

Hotel Deutschen Hof, next the rail, large house, charming 
view, excellent. 

Hotel Nestle (Swan), next the Pier, anxious to please, quiet 
house, well reported of ; fine view. % 

Pretty village. Summer-residence of the King of Wiirttemberg. 

Te England ' by the Rhine,' rail {Stuttgart, 5| hrs., Bruchsal, 2 hrs. 

more, Heidelberg, f hr. more), p. 46. 
Steamers— Jb Constance, hr. To Romanshorn, 1 hr. To Rorschach, 1^ hr 

BAVARIAN TERRITORY. 
Lindau — delightfully situated. 

Hotel Rheineck, ' TOie d' Or,' close to the Lake and Rail, 
without pretension, but excellent ; well furnished ; attentive ; 
moderate. Good carriages for excursions, etc. 

A remnant of the Heidenmauer (Roman wall) close to the bridge. 

To Augsburg, rail, 5^ hrs. ; Munich, 7 hrs. 
Steamers— See above. 

AUSTRIAN TERRITORY. 

Bregenz— Pop. 2300. 
' Hotel CEsterreichischer Hof, the best, well placed, thorough- 
ly comfortable. 

Romantic position. Austrian visa indispensable to landing. 

To Feldldrch, p. 64, dil. in 3f hrs. ; the Arlber^ Pass into the Tyrol. 
Steamers— See above. 



ST. GALL. 



61 



XI. ZURICH— ST. GALL. 

Rail direct, 3i hrs., Map, p. 65. 

Scenery — Pretty. 
Zurich, page 56. 

1 hr. Winterthur — Pop. 5500 Prot. Manufact. muslin. 

To Romanshorn, p. 60, and Schaffhausen, p. 50, 55. Junction of Rails. 

I hr. Wyl— Pop. 2000. Stopping-station for route 

Through the Toggenburg, page 67. 

1 hr. Winkeln, village. Stopping-station for route 

To Baths of Heinrichsbad, omnib. 6 times a-day, in 20 min., p. 64. 

i hr. St. Gall, Germ. St. Gallen— Pop. 8300 Prot., 3000 R. C. 

Hotel du Brocket, very good. Capital cuisine and wines. 
Landlord experienced in English tastes : landlady English. 

Hotel du Lion, very good. Situation charming. 

A striking-looking city. Manufact. embroidered muslins. 

Sight — The Ahhey, erected on the hermitage of St. Gall, a Scotch 
or Irish Missionary, 7th cent.: subsequently distinguished for the 
learning, wealth, and influence of its Abbots ; now ' fallen upon 
evil days,' — Its Cathedral, renewed in 1755, Italian, is one of the 
finest in Switzerland. — Its Library is rich in ancient MSS. 

Excursions — 1. To the Freudenberg, 2700 ft. Foot-path, f hr; 
Fine view of Lake Constance and the Alps. 

2. To the Vdgelisegg, 3000 ft. On post-rd. to Altstatten, p. 57, 
3 mis. Similar view, but finer. 

Routes from St. Gall. 



To Zurich by Utznach, a most interesting 

mode of return, 8^ hrs,, p 64. 
To Rorschach, rail, ^ hr., p. 63, 60. 
To Constance, Friedrichshafen, p. 59. 60. 



To Ragatz — by Rorschach, rail, 3^ hrs,, 
p. 63, 

by the Toggenbur^, dil. 9| 

hrs., p. 67. 



[See following sections also.] 

XII. ST. GALL— APPEUZELL— WEISSBAD— WILD- 
CHUKCH. 

Dil. to Appenzell only, 12J mis. Char-rd. to Weissbad, 2 mis. 

St. Gall . . dep. 9 30 a. m. 6 — p. m. j Appenzell . . dep. 6 — a. m. 4 — p. m 
Appenzell . . arr. 12 — noon. 8 30 p, m. | St. Gall .. arr. 8 15 a. m. 6 15 p. m 

Fare, 2 fr. 45 c. 

A most interesting day's excursion, little known to the English. 
Between the first dil. from St. Gall, and tbe last from Appenzell 
back, the Weissbad can be seen, but not the Wild-Church. Both 
can be seen, same day, from St. Gall and back, by early voiture, 
1 horse 12 fr., 2 horses 20 fr. But it is recommended to go for- 
ward, not return. 

Scenery — Picturesque, peculiar, and fine. 



62 



ST. GALL — APPENZELL. 



The Canton of Appenzell is most remarkable. Topographically : 
it is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gall, and blocked in by 
mountains on all sides but one. Socially : it is divided into the 
Ausser and Inner Rhoden outer and inner clearings '): amicably 
divided, in 1597, on account of the religious differences of the 
inhabitants. 44,000 Prot. occupy the former — active manufac- 
turers of muslin, cotton, silk, catchers of the spirit of the age, com- 
fortable, costumeless, disdainers of the past. 11,000 R. C. occupy 
the latter — rude agriculturists, poor plodders of the olden time, 
ignorers even of a wiser exterior than the romantic one of their 
forefathers ; but with a natural wit, intelhgence, and courtesy, that 
may vainly be looked for elsewhere. The women's costume is the 
most charming in Switzerland. 

St, Gall, 2000 ft., page 61. 
\2\ mis. (4ist.) Appenzell— Pop. 1400 R. C. 
A pretty char-rd., 1., by the river Sitter's side, leads to 
2 mis. Weissbad — a single Hotel, sweetly situated, largely re- 
sorted to for goats' milk, a cheap place to live in. 
Beyond, is a cul-de-sac, with three rising valleys. 
Excursions — 1. To the Alp-see, picturesque. Walk, 1 hr. 

2. To the Wildkirchli, 4600 ft. Walk, 2 hrs. up, centre valley : 
ll^hr. down: guide, l^fr. This * Wild-Church' is in a natural grotto, 
on the almost perpendicular mountain-side, but galleried, so that 
there is no danger. A very extraordinary scene. Service on Mi- 
chaelmas-day only ; but the original intention was for the regular 
benefit of the scattered cowherds at this elevation. 

3. To the JEben Alp, J hr. higher, by a remarkable tunnel quite 
through the mountain, torch-lighted by a man fr.). From the 
top, a grand panorama, at the other side. The Sentis, 7700 ft., 
close by — the Kamor, Altmann, Kurfiirsten, etc. 

4. Ascent of the Sentis, 8000 ft., 4 hrs. beyond the Wild-Church, 
same valley. Guide, perhaps desirable, 3 frs. Inn, on top. Mag- 
nificent view. (Down to Wildhaus on the other side, 4 hrs., p. 67.) 

How to get on, from Weissbad, without retracing ? 

Into the Rheinthal. — ^l. Foot-path, up 1. valley, over the Kamor 
5500 ft., fine view, to Riithi, 5 hrs., where the St. Gall and 
Ragatz rail passes, see next section. 

2. Carriage-rd., by Appenzell, Gais, over the Stoss (where, in 
1405, the Gais women fought with the Appenzellers against the 
Austrians, and beat them too, — the former numbering 400, the 
latter 3000; whence the Gais women, ever since, have the pri- 
vilege of preceding the men in the reception of the Holy Com- 
munion) : magnificent view : to Altstatten, 9 mis., 3 hrs., where 
the St. Gall and Ragatz rail passes, see next section. 



ST. GALL — EAGATZ. 



63 



Into the Toggenhurg. — 1. Foot-path up 1. valley, by the Fahler 
See and Kray Alp, to Wildhaus, 6 hrs., guide advisable : whence, 
p. 67j either — (') To Zurich, by Wattwyl, Utznach, Rapperschwyl, 
dil. and rail, 7 nrs., p. 65 : or — To Ragatz, by Haag, dil. and 
rail, 2i hrs., p. 64. 

2. Foot-path over the Sentis to Wildhaus, 10 hrs., see above. 

Into the St, Gall and Lake of Zurich rd. — Carriage-rd., by 
Appenzell, to Urnasch, 8 mis. ; thence, foot-path, 4 mis., to 
Schonengrund, where the dil. passes, p. 65. 



XIII. ST. GALL— RAGATZ. 

■ Two ways to Altstiitten. 

\st way. Fine mountain view. More interesting to Altstatten 
than the 2nd way given below. 

Dils. morn, and even, between St. Gall and Trogen, \\ hr. 
(back from Trogen, f hr. down) Between Trogen and Altstatten, 
dil. in the night, inconvenient : 1 hr.'s drive down ; walking, 2 hrs. 

St. Gall, 2000 ft., p. 61 . The road ascends the VogeHsegg, p. 61 . 

5f mis. (If St.) Trogen, 3000 ft. — seat of the government of 
Appenzell. 

From the ridge of the Ruppen, a grand panorama, both Swiss- 
ward and Tyrol-ward. 
%\ mis. (2| St.) Altstatten, 1500 ft.— see below. 



2nd way. Rail, passing Altstatten, to Ragatz, 4 times a-day, 
3| hrs. Those who have time should drive, in preference. 

Scenery — Very grand, mountain -chains on both sides, the 
Rhine between (whence the valley's name * Rheinthal '), a splen- 
did entry to the Alps. Map, p. 65. 

St. Gall, p. 61. Rail. 

\ hr. Rorschach, page 60. 

Charming views of the Lake of Constance. 

\ hr. rail. 6 mis. (2 stund.) Rheineck, village — Inn. 

A glorious view of the snowy Alps opens out, just before 

\ hr. rail. 3| m. (1^ st.) An, station, 

\ hr. rail. 6 m. (2 st.) Altstatten— see above. Here the rd. 
from St. Gall by Trogen joins in. 

Continuation of both the preceding routes as follows : 

\ hr. rail. 5 m. (If st.) Riithi, station — 

Over the Ka?nor, to Weissbad (Appenzell), foot-path, 5 hrs., p. 62. 

— 3 mis. further by the rd., 1 ml. distant from the rail, is 

— Sennwald village. 

In the Church-tower a Lord of Hohen Sax's body is exhibited 
in * a high state of preservation,' potted in a glass-lidded coffin. 



64 



THE RHEINTHAL. 



|- hr. rail. 4^ m. (1 J st.) Haag — 

Through the Toggenhurg, to Wattwyl, a fine route, see page 67. 
Road across the Rhine, L, to Feldkircli, see below. 
Hence the scenery is still grander, to 
J hr. rail. 12f m. (4j st.) Sargans Junction — 

To Wallenstadt and Wesen, rail — for Glarus and Stachelberg-, 2|- hrs., p. 68, 
70 ; for Zurich, 4:^ hrs., p. 67, 68. 

J hr. rail. 4| m. (If st.) Ragatz, p. 68. 



AUSTRLIN SIDE OF THE RHIXE, 

nearly parallel to the above, and equally bat distinctively gi'and. 
Dil. daily from 

Bregenz, Lake of Constance, page 60. 

21 mis. Feldkirch— Pop. 1600. 

To the 1. is the entrance to the Tp'ol. 

1^ ml. further on, road across the Rhine, r., to Haag, see above. 
15 mis. Balzers — Iroi, good. (Feny across the Rhine r.) The 
rest of the way is 

Swiss Territory. 

2^ mis. Luziensteig, Pass, fortified by the Swiss. Close 
by, the earliest Christian Church of Rhsetia, that of St. Lucius. 
The top of the rock, 2300 ft., road, is worth ascending for the 
view. (Foot-path and Railway-bridge to Ragatz, 3 mis.) 

6 mis. TJnterbruck, Rhine-bridge, p. 72, on the road and rail 
{Landquart station) between Coke and 

3 mis. B;agatz, p. 68. 



XIV. ST. GALL— WATTWYL— LAKE OF ZURICH. 

St. Gall, dil. dep. 4 30 a.m. Fares. Utznach, dil. dep. 12 15 noon. Fares. 

Schonengrund ..7 5 a. m. 2 fr. 50 c. Wattwyl .. 3 — p. m. 1 fr. 95 c. 

Wattwyl . . 9 5 a. m. 3 fr. 60 c. Schonengrund 5 20 p. m. 4 fr. 20 c. 

Utznach arr. 10 30 a. m. 6 fr. 70 c. St. Gall . , arr. 7 30 p. m. 6 fr. 70 c. 

Scenery — Interesting : pastoral : beautiful villages. 
St. Gall, 2000 ft., page 61. 

3 mis. (I St.) The Ki'atzernbrucke, 'bridge' spanning the 
ajjyss of the Sitter. 

\ ml. short of Herisau, a side-rd., 1., leads to Heinrichsbad, 
Bath-house. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Herisau, 2300 ft.— Pop. 3500 Prot. 
Hotel du Brocket, best. 

A well-looking city of the Outer Rhode of Appenzell, at the 
junction of the Glatt and Bridilbach. Manufact. muslins. Its 
Castles of Rosenberg and Rosenburg, ruined since 1403, were join- 
ed originally by a bridge (of leather it is averred — if so, certainly 
the old fable is fact, and there was ' nothing like it' elsewhere!) 



■WATT^\^ — LAKE OF ZURICH. 65. 

5^ mis. (1| St.) Sclioiieiigrund, village. 

To Appenzell, foot-^ath, &c., 10 mis., ^. 63. 

9i mis. (3i St.) Wattwyl, 2000 ft. 

Through the Toggenburg, to Ragatz, a fine route, p. 67. 

Commencement of the ascent of the Hiimmelswald, 3000 ft. ; 
from its ridge a glorious view down upon the Lake of Ziirich, 
backed by countless Alps. 

9 mis. (3 St.) XJtznacli, 1300 ft.— Railway-station. 

To Brunnen, Lake of Lucerne, dil., 6j hrs., 7 fr. 30 c, p. 78. 
To Ragatz, by Lake of Wallenstadt, rail, 2 hrs., p. 67. 
To Zurich, rail and steam, 2^ hrs., passing 

5 min. rail. 2 mis. (| st.) Schmerikon, on Lake of Ziirich, as 
follows. 



XV. LAKE OF ZtimCH. 

Direct route between England and Italy. 



SchafFhausen 



iWaldshut 

I Wintert\\^io5".- 
Olten I ^^"^^^^ 

Zurich C-£^N^ \ 
Uetliberg 




Albis * 



Romanshom Lake of Constance 



Tgen^^-^. ^^■'e/j ^/"''"'-^^j^^ Schme/rikon ' 



KichtersclLwylN 
s°^ug 

, Imraensee6'^^^/^.-x^^^^th 
o Lucerne / y,. . 

Kiissnaciit Weggis 

Lake of Lucerne 



* ^^/utznach 

^Wesen 




'^"^"^ Lake i 

Glarus p* ^ * i%^Wall]enstadt 



o Stachelberg ^ Sargans 



Brunn'fen> Klausen ; Pass 



o Ragatz 



Length, 24 mis. Supplied by the * Linth,' which enters at the 
Schmerikon end, and exits as the ' Limmat ' at the Ziirich end. 

Scenery— softly attractive. The Albis ridge along the r. ; the 
St. Gall and Glarus Alps looming a-head. The sloping shores are 
starred with villages, whose white houses, green blinds, and sound" 
ing silk-looms, give an agreeable idea of industry. 

Fish — a couple of dozen of different kinds, represented in lar?e 
paintings in the Town-House. 



66 LAKE OF ZURICH. 

Between Ziirich and Rappers chwyl 
Rail, out of view of the Lake, ml- hr., p. 58. 
(2). Steamers, half-a-dozen times a-day (those direct take no 
longer time). 

Steamers.— FdiVes. Zurich to Horgen, 1 fr. (2nd place, 60 c.) ;— to Richterschwyl, 
1 fr. 30 c. (2nd pi., 85 c.);— to Rapperschwyl, 1 fr. 80 c. (2nd pi, 1 fr. 20 c.) ;— to 
Lachen, 2 fr. 15 c. (2nd pi., 1 fr. 55 c.) ;— to Schmerikon, 2 fr. 65 c. (2nd pi, 2 fr.) 

Carriage-road on both sides. The steamers touch at the prin- 
cipal hamlets : r. and 1. refer to their course from 
Zurich, page 56. 

1 hr. r. Horgen — Hotel Meierhof, well situated. 

To Zug, for the Rig-i or Lucerne, omnib. in 3 hrs., p. 80. Voiture— 1 horse, 
10 fr. ; 2 horses, 15 fr. ; 3 horses, 20 fr. 

20 min. r. Wadenschwyl — Hotel EngeL 

To Zug, post-omnibus every morning, in 3 hrs., fare 2 fr. 20 c, p. 80. 
10 min. r. Richterschwyl — Hotel Trois Rois, 

To Glarus and Stachelberg, dil, daily, in 6| hrs., p. 70. 
To Einsiedeln, dil., in 2^ hrs., p. 78. Onto Lucerne, ditto. 

The Lake is crossed. Soon after, is passed the Isle of Aufnau 
on the r., where died and rests Ulrich von Hutten, the companion 
of Luther, for whom Zwingli procured this place of refuge. 

f hr. 1. Rapperschwyl— Pop. 2000. 

Hotel du Lac, very comfortable, attentive, clean, and most 
moderate. Recently enlarged. TalDles-d' hote for the Steamers. 
The service of the house is performed by the family. The English 
largely frequent it. 

Luggage between Steamers and Railway-station (in view of each other) free. 

Rapperschwyl was a fief of the House of Habsburg. The Duchess of Parma 
on expulsion from her Italian principality (1859) took up her residence here in 
Meyenberg villa. 

The Rathhaus contains a room of the 15th cent,, old wood-work, arms of the 
Burghers on stained glass, etc. 

The Terrace of the Chateau is a charming point of view. 

Bridge on piles of wood across the lake, 4500 ft. long, 12 ft. 
wide, founded 1350. The Alps of Glarus and Appenzell well 
seen. 

From Rapperschwyl, the Steamers cross the Lake again, to 
20 min. r. Lachen — a picturesque town. 

To Glarus and Stachelberg, dil., daily, in 5^ hrs., p. 70. 
To Brunnen, dil. passing from Utznach, in 5| hrs., p. 78. 

Hail from Mapperschwyl, above, to Ragatz^ etc. 

\ rail, in 2\ hrs., branching at Wesen to Glarus and Stachelberg, as follows— 

I hr. 1. Schmerikon — a marshy village. The Lake ends, 
o min. Utznach — see opposite page in continuation — 

To Lake TFallenstarft and Ragatz, rail, 2 hrs. 

To Lachen above, Einsiedeln, Brunnen, dil., 6^ hrs., for Lucerne, p. 78. 
To Toggenburg, next sect. To St. Gall, dil., in 7 hrs., preceding sect. 



THE TOGGENBURG — ^WILDHAUS. 



67 



XVI. WATTWYL— TOGGENBURG— RAGATZ. 

Zurich to WattwyL — 1. By rail to Wyl, p. 61, 2 hrs. ; dil. to 
Wattwyl, 2\ hrs. — 2. By steam to Rapperschwyl, rail to Utznach, 
"Ik hrs., preceding sect..; dil. to Wattwyl, 2 hrs., p. 65. 
'St. Gall to Wattwyl, p. 64. 



Wattwyl, dil. . . dep. 4 30 a. m. Fare. 
Wildhaus . . 8 10 a. m. 3 fr. 30 c. 
Haag, p. 64 . . 9 35 a. m. 4 fr. 85 c. 
Ragatz, rail . . arr. 10 30 a. m. 



Rawatz, rail . . dep. 3 — p. m. 
Haag, dil. p. 64 . . 4 20 p. m. Fare. 
Wildhaus . . . . 6 55 p. m. 1 fr. 55 c. 
Wattwyl . . arr. 10 — p. m. 4 fr. 85 c. 



Scenery — Finely Alpine : a long mountain-sided valley : little 
known. 

Associations — Formerly ruled by the Counts Toggenhurg, 
whence named. Then, sold to the warlike Abbots of St. Gall. 
The first local battle-ground of the Reformation, 150,000 Swiss 
engaging each other here. Tranquillised in 1712, and now incor- 
porated with St. Gall. 

Wattwyl, 2000 ft., page 67. 

18i mis. (6i St.) Wildhaus, 3500 ft.--village. 

Birth-place of Zwingli, the Reformer, 1484: his hut remains. 

To Appenzell (Weissbad, 6 hrs.), foot-path, p. 63. 

To Lake Wallenstadt (Wesen, 8 hrs. ; Wallenstadt, 6 hrs.), foot-paths, next 
sect. 

8i mis. (2i St.) Haag, 1600 ft. 

Hence, by rail through the Rheinthal, fully described to 
f hr. rail. 18^ mis. (fo\ st.) Ragatz, p. 64. 



XVII. ZURICH— LAKE WALLENSTADT— RAGATZ. 

Direct route between England and Italy. 

Local through-tickets on the steamers, or at the rail-bureaux. 
Scenery — Magnificent, and quite peculiar. See Plan, p. 65. 

From Zurich to 'Rapperschwi/l. 
2 hrs. Steam. See opposite page. 
From Rapperschwyl to Wesen. 
1 hr. Rail. As follows : sit on the right. 
Zurich — ^ 
2 hrs. steam. Rapperschwyl — ( ^ nr>r.nsitp r»ao-P 
ihr. rail. Schmerikon— ^ ^ee opposite page. 

5 min. rail. Utznach — 7 

The torrents of the Linth Thai formerly overflowed between this 
and Wesen, spreading miasma and ruin around. Escher of Zimcli 
undertook their rectification into two canals, one to Lake Wallen- 
stadt, the other to the Lake of Ziirich, — a labour begun in 1807, 
and finished in 1822: for which he received the title ' Escher von 
der Linth.* 

I 



LAKE OF WALLENSTADT. 



f hr. rail. Wesen — Auherge JEpee, humble. 

To Glarun, branch-rail, J hr. Thence to Stachelberg, dil., 2 hrs. (On to LU" 
cerne, by the Muotta Thai, and by the Klausen Pass). See following section. 
To Wildhaus (Toggenburg), foot-path, 8 hrs., fine, p, 67. 

From Wesen to Ragatz. 
Kail continued, \\ hr. As follows : sit on the coasting the 

Lake of "Wallenstadt. 

12 mis. long, 2 mis. broad: of a very high order of cold 
beauty : bounded on the 1. almost perpendicularly by the seven- 
topped Kurfiirsten, 7000 ft., and on the r. by the Miirtschen- 
stock, 7300 ft., along the base of which a romantic foot-path runs, 
15 mis. This latter mountain is in one place pierced by a natural 
tunnel, and the daylight shines through it — an etFect best seen 
from about Miihlehorn, the second village on the r. No road 
on either side. 

I" hr. rail. Wallenstadt — Auherge Aigle, middling. 

A poor village. (Foot-path to Wildhaus, tine, 6 hrs., p. 670 
Voiture to Ragatz, 2 horses, 18 fr. 

Through a superb valley, the seven-peaked Balfries, 8000 ft., on 
the 1., the Grauehorner, 8800 ft., on the r. 

J hr. rail. 9 mis. (3 st.) Sargans, Junction — 

To the Lake of Constance^ St, Gall, etc., through the Rheinthal, rail, p. 63. 

Through the Toggenhurg, rail^nd diL, p. 67. 

To Feldkirch, Tyrol, rail to Haag, ^ hr., thence dil., 1| hr., p. 64. 

I hr. rail. 4^ mis. [\\ st.) Ragatz, village, 1500 ft. 

Hotel Hof Ragatz, formerly an Abbot's Palace: a spacious, 
well-kept house, reasonable, and charmingly situated. Baths, into 
which the warm Spring of Pfaifers (beneficial in debility, nervous, 
dyspeptic, and cutaneous affections) is conveyed by wooden tubes, 
14,000 ft. long. 

Hotel de la Tamina, close to the Post, newly embelhshed, 
highly spoken of, reasonable, recommendable. 

English Church Service, in the Hotel Hof Ragatz. 

Natural position, unrivalled; the sharp Falkniss, 8000 ft, in 
front; the Calanda, 8500 ft, behind. Exquisitely pure air. 

Short Excursions — 1. To the Baths of Pfdffers, 3 mis. : good 
rd. Char, there and back, 1 horse, 6 fr. 

Up a tortuous gorge, through which the Tamina rushes down, 
so narrow that the sun penetrates it but for a few hours. Roman- 
tic in the highest degree, and wonderful : worth stopping a whole 
day to see it in light and shade. 

Geology — limestone above shale (Silurian). The flood has worn, 
and still wears, the entire fissure. A Bath-house is squeezed into 
the extremity. Admission, through it, to the Hot Spring, 1 fr. 



RAGATZ. 



69 



ij A wild cavern, dimly lighted, lashed helow by the roaring Tamina, 
) leads on by a gallery which precludes danger : but an additional 
j ^wrap' is recommended — cold air. The rocks reek with the 
1 thrown-up vapour ; and, where some stray sunbeam penetrates the 
I upper fissures, an ^ iris sits amidst the infernal surge.' The hot- 
^ spring, 98° Fahr., is in a small recess, at 4500 ft. distance from the 
: Bath-house. Carl von Hohenbalcon, Lord of Wartenstein Castle, 
' out chamois-hunting, originally discovered it by its fumes, and till 
I about 1840 (when it was made accessible by a road) both the liv- 
ing and the necessaries of life were lowered by ropes from above. 

2. To Pf offers Dorf, * village,' and Benedictine Abbey, whose 
Abbots were princes, date 1665 — now a mad-house. 

Up — two paths : 1st, across a bridge, half-way in the gorge, from 
whence 25 min. ; 2nd, from the Bath-house, from whence \ hr., 
more laborious ; fine view, above. 
I Down: 1st, carriage-rd., 2 mis.; 2nd, path to the high-rd. at the 
Unterbrlick, p. 72, 1^ hr., whence 3 mis. ; to Ragatz. 

3. To Luziensteig, p. 64. 1st, Foot-path, across the Bhine, 3 
mis. 2nd, Carriage-rd. by Unterbrlick, 9 mis. 

Longer Excursions — 4. Through the Prattigau, to Kiiblis. 
highly picturesque ; dil.-rd., 1/ mis. (5f st.) 

On to Davos, char-rd., 12 mis. ; thence — 

1st, to Tiefenkasten, Julier Pass, char-rd., 15 mis. \ 

2nd, to Ponte, in the Engadine, char-rd., 27 mis. | p. 72, 76. 

3rd, foot-path into the Engadine, 10 hrs., difficult. ) 

5. rom^^,intheSernftThal(forStachelberg);10hrs.; very fine. 
First to Baths of PfafFers, as above ; thence, r., up the Stiege — 

hr., Valens. 3 hrs., Weisstannen Thai, village. b\ hrs., over 
Riseten Grat, to Matt, p. 71. Guide necessary, 15 fr. 

6. To Elm^ in the Sernft Thai (for Stachelberg), a magnificent 
Pass, 12 hrs. Char-rd., past Pfafiers Dorf, to Vattis, Auberge 
(might be slept at), 4 hrs. Path to the foot of the Sardona Glacier, 
4 hrs. Across the Kalfeuser Thai, r., rounding the Glacier, and 
up the ridge, 1., 1| hr. ; superb views. Down to Elm, 3 J hrs., p. 
71. Guide necessary, 15 fr. 

7. To Reichenau^ on the Spliigen-rd., page 73, grand, along 
the back of the Calanda. Rd. to Vattis, as before, 4 hrs. ; path on, 
1., finely mountainous, 3 hrs. 

8. To the Via Mala, p. 73. Voiture, 2 horses, 45 fr. Or there 
and back, 2 days, 50 fr. 



To Zi/Vic/i,— by St. Gall, rail, 6| hrs., p. 
61,63. 



Routes from Ragatz. 



To St. Moritz, 1 day, p. 76. 
To C/iiavenna, rail and dil., 12 hrs., p. 73. 
To Andermatt, 2 days, p. 77, 
To BeUinzona,TSiil3>nd dil., 17 hrs., p. 73. 
To Lucerne, p. 78. 

To the Toggenburg, rail, f hr., p. 64, 67, 
To Rorschach, rail, 3 hrs., p. 63. 



by the Toggenburg, rail and 

dil., 10 hrs., p. 67. 

by Wallenstadt, rail and 



steam, 4^ hrs., preceding sections. 
To Stachelberg, 4 hrs., next section. 
To Coire, rail, ^ hr., p. 72. 



I 2 



70 



GLAEUS — STACHELBERG. 



XVIII. GLARUS and STACHELBEEG. 

jProm Zurich. — (') Steam to Rapperschwyl, p. 66, 2 hrs. Rail to 
Wesen, p. 68, 1 hr. Rail to Glarus, f hr. 

(-) Steam to Richterschwyl, p. 66, 2 hrs. (or Lachen, 3 hrs.) 
Dil. to Glarus, 3 hrs. 

From Eagatz. — (') Rail by Wesen, p. 68, to Glarus, 2 hrs. 

(^) Foot-paths ; see below. 

From Lucerne. — Camage-rd. from Brunnen, p. 91. (') To 
Lachen, p. 78, 79, 5^ hrs. ; thence to Glarus, 3 hrs. 

To Rapperschwyl, p. 78, 79, hrs.; thence rail by Wesen. 
p. 68, to Glarus, If hr. 

Q Horse-paths ; see below. 

Diligences. 

Services and Time occupied. Between Richterschwyl, Lachen, Glarus, once 
a-day, to and fro, in 4 hrs. 

Between Glarus and Stachelberg, twice a-day, to and fro, in 2 hrs. 
Fares. Eichterschwyl to Glarus, 5 fr. 80 c. Glarus to Stachelberg, 1 fr. 95 c. 

Scenery — Unsurpassed for grandeur. See Plan, p. 65. 

The Richterschwyl, Lachen road, and the Wesen rail, unite just 
before Nafels and Mollis, one on either side of the Linth. , 
From WeseUf p. 68, to Glarus, rail, ~ hr. viz. I 

From Lachen, p. 66, 15 mis. r. Nafels — celebrated for the de- 
feat of the Austrians by the Glaronnese, April 9, 1388. The latter 
sustained eleven assaults, which an equal number of stones on the 
adjoining plain commemorate. I 

From Wesen, p. 68, 5 mis. 1. Mollis — ^its Church contains the 
names in gold, and its Cemetery the remains, of the fallen in de- 
fence of their Fatherland. i 

i hr. rail. 4^ mis. Glarus— Pop. 4000 Prot., 600 R. C. 

Hotel Aigle. 

At the base of the Glarnisch, 9000 ft. The Church, in which 
Zv\ingli preached for ten years, is used by both creeds. Manufact. 
calicoes of all colours, and cheese of one — ^blue, from the 7nelilotus 
ccerulea, which is used purposely ; and as the cheese is kept a year 
before selling, the whole canton smells surprisingly of it. j 
Cross Route — To the Lake of Lucerne, by the Muotta Thai. ; 
Char-rd., past the Klon Lake, to Auen, auberge, 9 mis. (3 st.) , 
Voiture, there and back, 2 horses, 12 fr. Thence, horse-path i 
only, to Muotta, 5j hrs. Whence, char-rd., 12 mis., to Brun- 
nen, Lake of Lucerne. Described fully, p. 100. 
The high-road to Stachelberg winds up a majestic valley cours- 
ed by the Linth, with most tempting collateral ones, the whole 
closed by the ever-snowy ridge of the Todi, 11,500 ft. 

Up this, the Russians under Suwarow retreated before the 
Frenchin 1/99; then,up theSernftj and over the Panix. Seep. 100. 



STACHELBERG — ^KLAUSEN PASS. 



71 



Ceoss Route — Up the Sernft Thai Char-rd. Grand scenery. 
High-rd. towards Stachelberg for 3 mis. (1 st.) Then the 
Sernft opens on the 1., and the river Linth is crossed. 
6 mis. (2 St.) Engi waterfall. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Matt, village, noted for its slate and marine 
petrifactions. 

To Ragatz, by the Weisstannen Thai, 10 hrs., p. 69. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Elm — auherge. Foot-paths onward — 

To Ragatz, by the Kalfeuser Thai, 12 hrs., p. 69. 

To Flims, Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., p. 77. Guide indispensable. 

To Jlanz, Panix Pass, 8 hrs., p. 77. Guide indispensable. 

10| mls. (3| St.) Stachelberg Bath- House, good accommo- 
dation. Superbly situated: 10 minutes short of the petty village 
* Li nth-thai,' where the dil. comes to its full stop. 

Excursions — 1. To the F'dtschhach, a fine cascade, r., 1 mile. 

2. To the Schreyenhach, a fall of 200 ft., r. 1^ ml. further. 

3. To the Pantenbruck^s former place — where the single arch 
of stone, that braved the tempests for 400 years, was destroyed 
at last in 1852 by an avalanche — a savage overpowering scene, 
3 mis. beyond the Schreyenbach. 

4. To the Todi Glacier, 2 hrs. further. Yery grand. 

Cross Route — To ^/^^^or/ (for Lucerne). Klausen Pass. Horse- 
path. Horse and man, 25 fr. A severe day's work. Scenery with- 
out much character, to Balm : thence, striking. Guide needless. 

The ascent begins close by, but before, the Fatschbach — ^va- 
rious views of the Falls in ascending. The path, always on the r., 
rises considerably above it. 

3 hrs. Urnerboden — straggling chalets. 

2| hrs. Kulm of the Klausen, 6200 ft., constantly covered 
with snow. 

\ hr. Balm — a single chalet, 1., close by which, through a 
scarcely visible chink in the rocky parapet, is the rapid descent 
into the Schachenthal — a superb view, a wonderful counterpart 
of the Valley of Chamouny from the Col de Balm, to w^hich this 
*Balm' answers — ^the stream Staiibi and Schachen to the Arve 
and Arveiron — and the white-crowned Windgelle, 9800 ft., and 
its supporters, to Mont Blanc and his. 

1 hr. descent to the level of the Staubi-bridge. Hence, I. side 
of the river till nearly opposite 

1 hr. Unterschachen — wretched sleeping-place. 

1 hr. Spiringen — better sleeping-place. Romantic, but very 
rough char-road hence to Burgeln. 

The Kinzig Kalm Pass here comes down on the r.,— Suwarow's route with 
•23,000 Russians, from Altdorf into the Muotta Tlial, 8 hrs.' walk, p. IOC. 

1 hr. Burgeln — auherge * Wilhelm Tell,' excellent. See p. 93, 

Continued char-rd., 1., 2 mis., or horse-path, r., \\ ml., to 

4 hr. Altdorf, 1400 ft.— high road of the St. Gotthard, p. 92. 



72 



COIEE — ORISONS HISTORY. 



XIX. RAGATZ— COIRE. 

Direct route between England and Italy. 

Post road, 12^ mis. (4^ st) 2 hrs.' drive. 
Carriage, 2 horses, 18 fr. 

Rail, f hr. Destructive of the scenic effect. Sit on the r. 
Scenery — Very imposing, between grand mountain-ranges. 
The Rhine is here again * the castellated river/ 
Ragatz, page 68. 

The Rail crosses the Rhine immediately, (Bridge, with foot-path,) to , 
6 min. Mayenfeld, opposite Ragatz. {Feldkirch route, p. 64.) | 
The Road does not cross the Rhine until 

3 mis. (1 St.) Unterbruck, * lower bridge' — a sole auherge, ' 
Picturesque view, dark and heavy, crossing the Rhine. Soon after. 

To Feldkirch, Bregenz, etc,, p. 64. 
Through the Prattigau, picturesque, p. 69. 

Landquart is the Railway-station for Unterbriick and the 
Frattigau. 

i hr. rail. 9^ mis, (3|- st.) Coire, Germ. Chur— Pop. 5000 
Prot., 1000 R. C. 
Hotel du Lucmanier, best. 

An old feudal and ecclesiastical city, on the Plessur : the * Cu- 
ria ' of the Romans — capital of the Grisons. 

Sights — I. Cathedral of St Lucius, 7tn cent., interesting for 
its quaint old architecture, crypt, and tabernacle. The saint was I 
an English King in the 2nd cent., became a Christian Missionary, j 
and was martyred in A. D. 176, at the [ 

2. Roman Tower, Mar sol (* Mars' eye ' — ^i. e. the visible sign of i 
the war-spirit of the early Roman conqueror, — ) close to the former, i 
Its walls contain a primitive Christian chapel. 

Grisons History — Against the numerous nobles and bishops I 
whose ruined fortresses appear on every side, the people banded 

themselves in three divisions, which now form the local ones, ' 

viz., Gotteshaus Bund, A. D. 1396, Obergraue Bund, 1424, Zehn- i 
gerichte Bund, 1428 — * God's-House,' 'Upper-Grey,' and * Ten- 
Commune Confederations.' These united in 1474, under the com- 
mon name Graubiindten (' Grey Confederations,' from the colour 

of the chief costume), and formed an independent republic until j 

incorporated with the general Swiss Confederation in 1815. j 

The Language represents the historic phases of the region, 

being a mixture of Latin from its old Roman subjugators, Ger- ! 

man from its transference to the Suabian sway till 1268, and ! 

Italian from its contiguity to, and profitable trade with, Italy. ; 

It is called * Romanisch.' ! 

Routes from Coire. I 

See Rap:atz, p. 69. I 



REICHENAU. 



I XX. RAGATZ— ITALY. 

i Direct route between England and Italy. 

! Spliigen Pass to Como : Bernhardin Pass to Bellinzona. 

1 Ragatz to Coire, rail, ^ hr., preceding sect. From Coire onward — 

i Diligences, 
ij Between Coire and Spliigen, thrice a-day. 

I Between Spliigen and Chiavenna, twice a-day. Between Spliigen and Bellinzona, 
j twice a-day. 

![ From place to place. Fares 
I Official I Time in throughout. 
! dist. driving. Coupe. Inter. 
1 Posts.* ' Hours. fr. c. fr. c. 
! Coire 

2 3 ...Tusis 5 35 4 55 

1 l-|...Andeer 8 30 7 5 

1^ 2i ..Splugen 11 40 9 80 

Spliigen Pass. 

\ 2| 4|...Campo-dolcino 17 75 15 30 

j 11 l}... Chiavenna 21 — 18 20 

i Bernhardin Pass. From Spliigen, above. 

i 1 l|...Hinterrhein 2 50 2 15 

i If 2|...S. Bernhardin 6 50 5 65 

If li...Misox 9 95 8 65 

1| l|...Cama 13 70 11 90 

1^ 1|... Bellinzona 16 60 14 30 

The distances prefixed throughout this section in Eng. miles and Swiss stunden 

are accurate. The Official * Posting distances' are simply conventional, and not strictly 
: accurate. 

Scenery — Grandly mountainous and peculiar, to the Via Mala : 
there, extraordinarily wild: thence, tame to Spliigen. Beyond, 
the Spliigen Pass, the very finest in the Alps — the Bernhardin, 
highly picturesque. 

Advice — The incomparable effect of the Spliigen Pass is in 
going towards Italy. The diL has no banquette. It is only Pe- 
destrians, or open Voituriers, who can appreciate the route's 
wonders. Ragatz may be returned to by the Bernhardin. 

Pedestrians might drive between Coire and Tusis. 

Coire, 2000 ft., preceding section. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Reiehenau — petty village. 

Hotel Aigle, unpretending, but good. 

Sight — The Chateau, where Louis Philippe, then Due de Char- 
tres, flying from the French Revolutionists, took refuge as a teacher, 
under the name of Chabaud, from Oct., 1793, to July, 1794. 

Its Gardens are very picturesque. 

Here the two sources of the Rhine unite — the Vorder-Rhein 
descending from the Ober-Alp glaciers, p. 77, a dirty white — the 
Hinter-Rhein from the Bernhardin, a muddy blue. Ruined for- 
talices in all directions. (See ^ Grisons History,' page 72.) 

To Ragatz, by the Calanda, foot-path, 7 hrs., p. 69. 

To Andermatt, through Valley of the Vorder-Rhein, rd., p. 77. 

j 9f mis. (3i St.) Tusis, 2500 ft.,— village, finely situated. 
I Hotel de la Vli Mala, excellent, most recommendable. 



From place to place. Fares 
Official J Time in throughout, 
dist. j driving. Coupe. Inter. 

Posts. I Hours. fr. c. fr. c. 

Bernhardin Pass. Bellinzona 

\\ 2 ...Cama 2 90 2 40 

If 2i...Misox 6 65 5 65 

13 3... S. Bernhardin... 10 10 8 65 

If 2i...Hinterrhein 14 10 12 15 

I 1... Splugen (below) 16 60 14 30 

fr. c. fr. c 

Spliigen Pass. Chiavenna 

1^ 3... Campo-dolcino... 3 25 2 90 

2f 5... Spliigen 9 65 8 40 

II lA ..Andeer 12 90 11 15 

1 l|... Tusis 15 65 13 65 

2 2l... Coire 21 — 18 20 



74 



YIA MALA — SPLUGEN PASS. 



To Tiefenkasten, on the Julier Pass, 12 mis., char-rd., very interesting 
— a good return-route to Coire, — p. 76. 

^ ml. (|- St.) The Via Mala — a remarkable fissure, 5 mis. long, 
a few feet wide, 1500 ft. high, formed by a natm-al convulsion, as 
is obvious from the sides sharply corresponding : made available 
by human art for every requirement of traffic or travel. The car- 
riage-rd., perfectly protected by a parapet, is hewn out of the rock, 
from 200 to 500 ft. above the thin Rhine which mines a way be- 
low. Three bridges cross it ; and one part, formerly totally im- 
passable, significantly named Verlm^enes Loch (' the opening lost '), 
is tunnelled through for 216 ft. The whole is savagely romantic — 
a sombre hght pervades it, and a current of chill air. 

The Yia Mala should be walked if possible : allow 3 hrs. upu 
mis. (If St.) Zillis, a petty village, ends the Via Mala. 

Upon a modern Bridge a little further, is a Latin ' sermon in 
stone ' to this effect — * The way is open now to foes and friends. 
Swiss ! be vigilant. Simplicity and union will preserve the free- 
dom bequeathed by your fathers.' 

2i mis. (I- St.) Andeer, 3200 ft. 

8f mis. (2| St.) Spltigen, 4800 it.— Hotel Poste, good. 
Here the dils. dine ; and here the road into Italy divides— 



1. Splugen Pass, to the Lake of Como, 

Time — Splugen to the Douane, up — driving^ 2f hrs. — walking, 2\ hrs. 

Douane to Chiavenna, down 2| 4J hrs. 

-SacA: — Chiavenna to the Douane, up 7 6 hr&. 

Douane to Splugen, down f 2^ hrs. 

From Spliigen village, road left, up the Spliignerberg — 

9 mis. (3 St.) Douane and auberge. Lombard (Sardinian) 
Frontier. Luggage and Passport examined. Top of the Pass, 
7000 ft. Fine sterile region. 

Gradually the road rushes astoundingly down a stupendous 
gorge with glorious prospects, past 

3 mis. (1st.) Pianazzo village, 4800 ft. Immediately beyond is 

— The Fall of the Madesimo, 800 ft. ; singularly beautiful ; 
should be seen from the parapet overhanging. 

4-^ mis. (U St.) Campo-dolcino, village, 3500 ft. 

Auberge^ very variable both in charges and treatment. 

Along this tremendous gulf of the Cardinell, Macdonald led 
the French army, in Dec, 1800: whole columns were swept 
away by the avalanches. 

8f mis. (2| St.) Chiavenna, Germ. Cleven, 1200 ft.— Pop. 3000. 

Hotel Conradi, well placed, excellent. 

Hotel de la Corona, new and good. 



CHIAVENNA— SPLUGEN PASS. 



75 



Hotel de la Clef d'Or, new, near the Post, landlord anxious 
to please, reasonable. 

Magnificently situated city : on the Maira and near the Lira. 

Charming view from the Chateau — fee, f zwanz. Falls of the 
Maira seen from garden of Cafe opposite H. Clef d' Or. In Church 
of S. Lorenzo, font with old bas-reliefs. 

By the Maloja and Julier Passes to Coire, see next sect. 
By the Bernina Pass to Colico (a local circuit)^ next sect. 
To Colico direct, diligences several times a-day, in 3 hrs., 4 fr. 

18 mis. (6 st.) Colico, on the Lake of Como, p. 186. 



2. Bernhardin Pass, to Bellinzona : rich in mountain views, 
glaciers, cascades, etc. 

Spliigen village, 4800 ft., preceding page. Road straight on 
(i. e. not left), along the Rhine — 

6| mis. (2^ St.) Hinterrhein, village, 5000 ft. — Inn, 

To the • Sprung," the Source of the Hinter-Rhein (the Vorder-Rhein's course, p. 
77, is longer and is therefore the Source). 9 mis. 3 hrs.' laborious walk. Guide 
indispensable. 

Top of the Pass, 6500 ft. — descending, 

lOJ mis. (3i St.) St. Bernhardin, 5300 ft,— Hotel Croce. 

The highest hamlet on the pass, whence the whole is named. — 
The Hinter-Rhine descends from the glaciers on the r. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Misox, 2400 it.— Hotel Fosta. 

Charmingly situated in the valley, amidst Italian flowers and 
sunshine, castles and waterfalls. 

9f mis. (3i St.) Cama, 1200 ft.— 

The road joins the St, Gotthard Pass above Arbedo, (Battle, p. 
96,) 3 mis. short of 
^ mis. (3^ St.) Bellinzona, 700 ft., p. 96. 



XXI. THE MALOJA AND JTJLIER PASSES. 

Chiavenna to Silvaplana (Maloja). Silvaplana to Coire (Julier) 

Diligences daily.— Chiavenna to Samaden.in 9 hrs. ; fare, 9 fr. 60 c. Samaden 
to Coire, in 10 hrs. ; fare, 14 fr. 70. c. 

Scenery — Extremely fine in parts : small lakes and glaciers. 

Chiavenna, 1200 ft. — preceding section. 

2J mis. Piuro — a lovely village once, buried, with every soul, 
by a mountain-fall. Sept 4, 1618. The Val Bregaglia onward, the 
cradle of the chimney-sweepers of the continent. 

3f mis. At Castasegna, the Lombard (Sardinian) frontier 
is crossed into Switzerland. 

6 mis. Vicosoprano, 3400 ft. — Pop. 500. — Inn. 

4 mis. Casaccia, 4800 ft. — Inn^ may be stopped at. 



MALOJA PASS — JULIER PASS. 



The Septiiner Pass crossing from hence to the Julier at Bivio-Stalla, see 
below, 8 hrs., is fine but severe. Better mounted from Stalla— to the Col, 
2 hrs. 

3 mis. Maloja, 6000 ft.—Lin, Top of the Pass. 

6^ mis. Silvaplana, 5500 ft. — Lm. 

A day's £'j'CMr.vio;i— Silvaplana, Surlei-Alp, Corvatsch and Rosatsch Glaciers, 
Pontresina (see below). Guide, 8 fr. 

Route into Tyrol. — 5 mis. St, Moritzy Pop. 160. — Iniv, 

Much frequented for a sparkhng chalybeate spring. Fine, 
severe situation. 

4 mis. Samaden — Pop. 500. Capital of the Engadine. 

By the Bernina Pass to Lake of Como, see below. 
4 mis. Fo7ite. Albula Pass, char-rd., 12 hrs. to Tiefen- 
kasten, below, fine. 

36 mis. ^lartinshr'uck, on the T}to1 frontier. 
From Silvaplana. Up the Julier, 7600 ft. — bare, solemn scenery. 
9 mis. (3 St.) Bivio-Stalla, 5700 it.^Im, 

By the Septiiner Pass, to Casaccia, see above. 
6 mis. (2 St.) MiiMen, 4700 ft. — Inns. Fine scenery onward. The 
deep gorge of the Stein, a milder Via Mala, close to 
Ui mis. (3f St.) Tiefenkasten, 3000 ft. 

To the Prattigau, char-rd., p. 69. 

To the Via Mala (Tusis), char-rd., 12 mis., p. 74. 

18 mis. (6 St.) Coire, 2000 ft.— p. 72. 
f hr. rail. Ragatz. 



Bernina Pass. 

From Coire and Chiavenna by Samaden (above) to the Lake of 
Como. 

Diligences daily. Between Samaden and Poschiavo, in 7i hrs., 5 fr. 20 c. 
Between Poschiavo and Tirano, in 2 hrs., 2 fr. 20 c. — Voitures, 1 horse. Tirano 
— Sondrio, in 3 hrs., 8 zwanz. Sondrio— Morbegno, in 3 hrs., 8 zw. Morbegno— 
Colico, in 2^ hrs., 5 zw. — JFalking. 1st day: Samaden to Le Prase, 10 hrs." 2nd 
day : Le Prese to Sondrio, 8 hrs. Sondrio to Colico is better driven, 5 hrs. 

Each hr. prefixed below represents ^ English mis. 

Samaden, 5600 ft.— see foregoing section. 

li hr. Pontresina, 5800 ft.— //^/^, ' Krone,' good. 

The Rosatsch Glacier opposite (3 hrs., easy). Mountains — Piz Bernina, 
13,000 ft.; Piz Rosatsch, 12,700 ft. ; Piz Languard, 10,500 ft., 4i hrs. up, easy, (3 
hrs. back,) guide, 8 fr.— Grand views from all. 

li hr. Morteratsch Glacier, 6 mis. long; ^ hr.'s walk from the road. 

1 nr. Bernina auberge, 6600 ft. 

\ hr. The 'Black' and 'White Lakes.' scarcely divided, yet descending to 
different parts of the world ; the Lago Nero to the Black Sea-— Lago Bianco 
to the Adriatic. 

(Foot-path to Poschiavo, 4 hrs ' walk, saving 3 mis. of rd.— To r. of Lakes Nero 
and Bianco. Then up, r. Palii [Bernina] Glacier opposite, bold. Down to 
Cavaglia village. Thence, green plain and stony path.) 

Road above, continued. 3 hrs.' drive to Poschiavo— 

1 hr. Top of the Bernina Pass, 76 )0 it., desert. 

1] hr. down. Two little auberges : • La Rosa,' the better, 

2| hrs. Poschiavo, 3450 ft.— Pop. 2000. Hotel Croce. 

l~hr. Le Prese, on the Lake of Poschiavo, charming situation. 

Bath-house and lodging. 



BERNINA PASS. 



. Rapid descent through a gorge, along the river Poschiavino. 
2]- hrs. Brusio, 2400 ft.— Inn, ' Posta,' good, 
f hr. Frontier of Switzerland and Lombardy. Passport. 
^ hr. Madonna di Tirano, 1500 ft. Voiture to Sondrio, 8 zw. 
5 hrs. Sondrio, 1100 ft.— Capital of the Valteline. Voit. to Colico, 8 zw. 

5 hrs. Morhegno, 800 {I.— Inn, ' Regina d' Inghilterra.' 

^ hrs. Colico, 700 ft.— Lake of Como, Spliigen Pass, p. 75, 185. 

XXII. RAGATZ— ANDERMATT. 

Eagatz to Coire, rail, ^ hr., p. 72.— Between Coire and Dissentis, diligence 
daily, in 9 hrs. ; fare, 8 fr. 50 c— Dissentis, to Andermatt, horse-path, 21 mis. 
Horse and man, 20 fr. Allow, 8 hrs. time. 

Two days required for the whole. 

Scenery — Extremely grand : along the bases of the Todi and 
Ober-Alp: mountain-tops, small cascades, lakelets, ruined for- 
tresses, chalets, and villages. 

Coire, 2000 ft., p. 72. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Reichenau, p. 73. 

Here the road separates r. from the route of the Spliigen — 
\ ml. further, good view from the Church-terrace of Tamins. 
4| mis. (H St.) Trins — 

Admirable view : ruins of Hohentrins : small cascades r lake. 
3 mis. (1 St.) Flims — 

To Elm (Stachelberg, &c.) by the Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., p. 71. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Ilanz, Romanisch * Glion' — Auherge Croix, *The 
first town on the Rhine.' 

To Elm (Stachelberg, &e.) by the Panix Pass, 8 hrs., p. 71. 

12 mis. (4 St.) Truns— Pop. 800 R. C. 

Just before entering, is a maple tree r., beneath which the 
* Obergraue ' Confederation, p. 72, was formed in 1424, and com- 
memorated by the adjacent chapel of St. Anne, in which the 
frescos curiously contrast the ' Upper-Grey ' in ancient and 
modern times. 

71 mis. (2i St.) Dissentis, Rom. ' Muster.'— Pop. 3800 R. C. 
Auherge Couronne, 

Fine view from the Benedictine Abbey, 7th cent. The forest 
behind fends off the avalanche from the city. 

Here Suwarow completed his marvellous 18 days' retreat from 
the Erench in 1799 ; 18,000 of his troops remaining. See p. 70, 100. 

Horse-path for the remainder of the route. 

To Biasca (for Bellinzona, etc.) by the Lukmanier Pass, p. 96. 
ToAmsteg, St. Gotthard high-rd., by the Kreutzli Pass, fine, 11 hrs., p. 94. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Sedrun — Auherge Couronne, fair. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Ruaras — the last village. Beyond, are two 
. paths : take that to the r. 

3 mis. (1 St.) The Ober-Alp ascent begins. The Ober-Alp 
Glacier, across the valley, in the St. Gotthard range, is the real 
source of the mighty Rhine (see p. 75). 

3 mis. (1 St.) Top of the Pass, 6400 ft. Bear to the 1. in 
descending, to avoid the marshes. 



78 



EINSIEDELN. 



3 mis. (1 St.) Ober-Alp lake. Keep on the r. side of it. 
Thence through broken ground to 

3 mis. (1 St.) Andermatt, on the St. Gotthard high-rd., p. 94, 

whence 

To Bellinzona, dil., 9 hrs. | To Lucerne, dil., 7 hrs. 



XXIII. RAGATZ— LUCERNE. 

From Ragatz : see Plan, p. 65 — 

1st way. To Andermatt, as last section,* then down the St. 
Gotthard. (3 days.) 

2nd, To Glarus, p. 70, rail, 2 hrs. ; then, Muotta Thai, p. 100. 
(I hard day). 

3rd, To Wesen and Utznach, p. 68, rail, 2 hrs. Whence, dil., 
morning and evening to Brunnen, 6J hrs., and steam to Lucerne, 
2 hrs. ; as follows — 

Dil. Fare — Utznach to Brunnen, 7 fr. 30 c. 

Scenery — Tame to the descent on Steinen, which is one of the 
most magnificent in the Alps. 
Ragatz, page 68, to 

2 hrs. rail. Utznach, p. 67. Hence, dil. to Lachen, or rail to 
Rapperschwyl — 

li hr. dil. 7f mis. (2| st.) | f hr. rail. Rapperschwyl, 
Lachen, 1400 ft., p. 66. | p. 66. 

From Lachen or Rapperschwyl, equal distance on ; viz. — 
At Schindellegi hamlet, If ml. before Biberbruck, is a road 

To Richterschwyl, on Lake of Zurich, 5 mis., dil., p. 66. 

9| mis. (3J St.) Biberbruck — a single wretched post inn. 

Cross Route — 3 mis. Einsiedeln — Hotel Cerf, best. 

Only worth visiting at the great R. C. Festival, Sept. 14. 
Then from 15 to 30,000 Pilgrims from all quarters conglom- 
erate. At 3 a.m. the cannons bang, the pavements clatter 
with devotees carrying flickering tapers towards the 

Cathedral^ ^Our Lady of Hermits' — immense: raised for an 
image of the Virgin and Child, by Meinrad, a noble Hermit, 
murdered in 803, whose pet ravens followed the murderers, 
forced them to confess, and saw them executed at Zurich, 
where now the Bellevue stands. Consecrated Sept. 14, 94S (by 
Our Lord Himself, according to the Bishop of Constance, who 
averred he had it from Angels, which was confirmed by a 
Bull of Pope Leo VIII : so it rose into note and became mon- 
strously rich). Six times burnt ; but the image always mira- 
culously preserved — the fire visible in the black faces and 
hands. Rebuilt lastly in 1719, — Italian architecture. 

High-mass about 9 a.m. Then booths for the sale of relics, 
&e. At night, the square and abbey are lit up by variegated 
lamps ; procession of torch-bearers, soldiers, chanters, white- 



MORGAHTEN — ^ALBIS. 



79 



robed girls, and priests ; benediction from a blazing altar reared 
in the centre ; and every light abruptly quenched finishes all 
Only two larger R. C. Pilgrimages in Europe, viz., St. Jago of 
Compostella, and St. Loretto. 

From Einsiedeln, the Katzenstrich, a broad path, marked by 
R. C. posts with legendary paintings, leads in 3 mis. to 

Altmatt — 

2\ mis. (f St.) Altmatt village, on the high-rd. 

2 mis. (I St.) Rothenthurm village. 

Here, under Aloys de Reding-Biberegg, the Swiss conquered, 
in conflict with the French, May 2, 1798. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Sattel, 2400 it.— Inns, 
The first by-rd. beyond, I ml., leads to 

1 ml. Morgarten, on Lake Egeri ; where 30,000 Austrians, 
attempting to re-impose their yoke on the Swiss, met a fearful 
defeat from 1300 Confederates, Nov. 16, 1315, p. 98, 99. In 
the Chapel, an annual Mass still locally celebrates that date. 
Magnificent mountain views, descending to 

3^ mis. (\\ St.) Steinen, 1500 ft. — Birth-place and chapel of 
Stauffacher, one of Hhe immortal Three of Griitli,' p. 91. 

(A picturesque foot-path passes Sewen, avoids Schwytz, and de- 
bouches \\ ml. from Brunnen, saving 1 ml. of road. See p. 99.) 
Half-way between this and Schwytz, 

To the Lake of Lowertz, and the Rigi ; p. 99. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Schwytz, fully described, to 

3| mis. (1|- St.) Brunnen, on the Lake of Lucerne, p. 99. 

2 hrs. steam. Lucerne. [ ^ hr. steam. Fluelen, 

XXIV, ZURICH— LUCERHE. 

\st way, 33^ mis. (11^ st.) By post-road — over Albis. Dil., 6| hrs. 

Diligence daily. Zurich to Albis, up, 2 hrs. (back, 1 hr.), 1 fr. 85 c. Albis to Zug, 
down, 1| hr. (back, 2^ hrs.), 1 fr. 95 c. 

Zurich to Zug, total, 3 fr. 80 c. Zurich to Lucerne, 7 fr. 20 c. — See Map, p. 65. 

Zurich, 1400 ft., page 56. 

8i mis. (2| stund.) Ridge of the Albis, 2900 ft. 

Splendid view, of mountains, lakes, and plain : this route there- 
fore recommendable above the following. 

Descending, and close to the little village of Hansen is 

Albisbrunn Bath-house and Pension, 1800 ft., admirably situ- 
ated, fine healthy air, moderate prices (5 to 6 frs. per day). The 
water is beneficial in cases of indigestion, inflammation, debility, 
scrofula, rheumatism, gout, etc. Kesident Physician of long ex- 
perience. Open the entire year. Magnificent views. 

3f mis. {\\ St.) Cappel— 



80 



ZUG. 



A large stone by the wayside commemorates the death-spot of 
ZwingU the Reformer, Oct. 11, 1531 — caused by a religious con- 
flict between the R. C. cantons and Ziirich — 

Theirs was the toil, the trial, and the strife, 
Ours the calm home aud the untroubled life. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Baar. — Remarkable Romish cemetery. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Zug, 1400 ft.— Pop. 3000. Agricultural. 

Hotel du Cerf, best, comfortable and reasonable . 

Sight — St. MichaeVs Bone- House, the names and noble pedigree 
labelled on the republican skulls. Church-yard with gilt crosses, 
&c. — the best R. C. specimen in Switzerland. \ mile to the east 
of the city. 

The Felsenegg, 3300 ft. Carriage-rd. Bath-House and Pen- 
sion, charmingly placed, and moderate prices. 

Here the Lake ought to be taken to Immensee, see below, 
and so on : the road is tame to Lucerne (rail in progress). 

I5f mis. (5 J St.) Lucerne, page 82. 



2nd way. By the lakes of Ziirich, Zug, and Lucerne. 5f hrs. 
Not recommendable, because the Albis thus is lost. Map, p, 65. 

From Zurich — Fares. 

1 hr. steam. Horgen, page 66 ... ... 1 fr. — 

3 hrs. omnibus. Zug, see above. ... 3 fr. 70 c. 

I hr, steam. Immensee, p. 98. ... 5 fr. 10 c. 

I hr. omnibus. Kiissnacht, ibid. ... 5 fr. 70 c. 

f hr. steam. Lucerne ... ... 7 fr. 40 c. 

There are two departures in the morning, in both directions. The services are all 

in correspondence. Through-tickets are issued on the Steamers and at the Post 



3rd way. By rail, in a totally opposite direction. A\ hrs. 
Ziirich to Turgi, p. 54. Turgi to Olten, p. 128. Olten to Lu- 
cerne, next section but one. 



XXV. FROM ZURICH TO THE RIGI. 

Map, p. 65. 

Ziirich, Horgen, Zug, as above, is the route ordinarily taken, 
Ziirich, Albis, Zug, p. 79, is tnuch superior (driving, 5 hrs. ; or 

walking, 6 hrs. ; leaving Ziirich early, reaching Zug by noon.) 
Then — Zug to Arth, steam 1 hr., p. 99, ascend the Rigi, p. 87, 

and sleep. 

(The beautiful Lowertz base of the Rigi, and the Rossberg, 
Map, p. 89, might well be visited, the afternoon and morning, be- 
fore ascending the Rigi.) 

Next day : descend to Weggis, for Lucerne or any further route, 
for which full time will be found. See pages 88, 89. 



HAUENSTEIN — OLTEN — SEMPACH, 



81 



XXVI. BASLE— LUCERNE. 

Direct route between England and Italy. 
Eail, p. liv, 4 hrs. 

From Basle to Olten, sit on the r. From Olten to Lucerne, on the I. 
Scenery — Interesting over the Hauenstein, and thenceforward. 
Pedestrians should walk only from Laufelfingen to Olten. 

Basle, page 53. Rail on. Nothing noticeable to 
\l hr. Laufelfingen, 1400 ft. 

Foot of the Lower Hauenstein Pass, 2300 ft. high. The top 
is like Mahomet's Tomb — ^hard to say where exactly. The chief 
view is on the descent to Olten. 

Tunnel, 5 min. (8000 ft.= l| mile) long. May 28, 1857, 52 
workmen were buried in it by a fall. Emerging, admirable view, 
r., of Olten, Aarburg Castle above it. The rail makes a surprising 
curve and crosses the river (Aar.) 

i hr. Olten, 1600 ft.— Pop. 1500. 

Railway Buffet, good. 

Hotel and Pension Von Arx, opposite the Station, an excellent 
house and quiet stopping-place, clean, attentive, and reasonable. 

Sight — In the Capuchin Church, a fine Madonna of Desch- 
wanden. 

Conclusion of the Pass. Central Junction of Rails. 

To Aarau, Schinznach, Baden, Zurich, rail, 2 hrs., p. 129. 
To Soleure, rail, 1^ hr., p. 136. To Bienne, f hr. more, p. 135. 
To Berne, rail, 2^ hrs., p. 129. 
To Lucerne, rail continued, 2^ hrs., as follows : 

10 min. Aarburg — Pop. 1500. 

Strikingly dominated by an old Fort, now a gaol and arsenal. 

\ hr. Zofingen. — Remains of Roman Baths. 

f hr. Sursee. — | ml. further, the rail coasts 

1. Lake Sempach.. — On the opposite shore, 1400 Swiss slew 
2600 invaders, after their revolt from the Austrian yoke, p. xxx. 
Here, Arnold von Winkelried ' opened a way to freedom ' in the 
Austrian lines, by entangling in his own bosom a wide-swept arm- 
ful of the foremost spears, July 19, 1386. Four crosses mark where. 

The mountains now multiply — inhospitable Pilate frowning on 
the r., and delusive Rigi wooing on the 1. 

The bright-green Reuss rushes alongside. 

1 hr. Lucerne. Terminus on the Lake, close to the Steamers, 
1st Covered Bridge, and Hotels. 



Continued in f ollowing section. 



82 



LUCERNE. 



XXVII. LUCERNE. 




Germ,Luzern-Pop.lO,000 R.C, 



1 Basle I 
I gate ; 

I Post 
I □ 



Railway 
Station 



Allenwinden * 
The City The Lion * 
Zurich gate r\ 

□ Hotels t English Churcli 

□ □ □ □ 
, s > Cathedral ^ 
!===^ Promenade 

^ Steamers 

The Lake 



Hotel Schweizer Hof, on the Lake, spacious, and excellent. 
The Proprietor is well-acquainted with English tastes and anxi- 
ous to satisfy them. " 

Hotel d'Angleterre, on the Lake, admirably arranged, high- 
ly recommended by its visitors, airy, and comfortable, with moder- 
ate charges. 

Hotel du Cygne, on the Lake, long established, thoroughly 
reliable landlord, comfort, attention, moderate charges. Fensmi, 
advantageously. 

Hotel du Rigi, on the Lake, new, good, and reasonable, has a 
high character. 

Hotel des Balances, in the middle of the town. 
Pensions — 

Kaufmann, ' Felsberg,' on a height above the Cathedral, left, in 
a magnificent situation and fresh air, grand views of the Lake, 
Rigi, Pilate, Alps, and Town. 

JEschmann, old established, close to the Steamers, Gothic 
Tower with fine view on the Lake and mountains, comfortable, 
highly spoken of. 

Worley^ 2nd house r. beyond Cathedral, liberal and good table, 
charming view, very moderate terms. English Proprietress. 

Pietzker, 1st house on the right outside the upper gate of the 
Cathedral. Excellent. 

Houses of Business — 

Banker — Knorr, 277 Kapellgasse, near the lake. 

Fhjucians — the following are of equally high character, and 
eminently skilful — 

— Dr. iSFager, No. 463, close to the lake and 1st Covered Bridge ; 
speaks English. May be consulted wdth great satisfaction. 

— Dr. Steiger, 96 Ausser Weggis Gasse. 

— Dr. Pfyffer, No. 183, next house to the Casino. 

i)entist — Dr. J. Peyer, eminently skilful, speaks English. (De- 
mand him at the Hotels.) 

Pharmacie du Lac, close to the lake, opposite * TEschmann's ; ' 
convenient, has many English Medicines, Homoeopathic prepara- 
tions, and the American Dispensatory. 



LUCEKNE. 



.83 



Thcirmacie Dr. cVOrelli Corragioni^ established; close to * the 
!| Balances.' 

j! Pharmacie Milller, 213 Weinmarkt ; reliable, speaks English, 
I understands our Pharmacopoeia, has many English Patent Me- 
; dicines and Homoeopathic preparations ; and specially keeps good 
I Port, Sherry, and Madeira, Tea, and Toilette articles, 
ji Wood-carvings, Vieios, Cigars, Sfc. — Kesselbach, opposite * the 

Lion ; ' a splendid show. Purchases sent direct to England or 

elsewhere. 

Siviss Souvenirs, Views, Woocl-sctdptiires, Paintings, Sfc. — Schur- 
mann, 266 Kappelgasse, has a handsome collection, marked and fixt 
|; prices, and is v/orthy of confidence. He edits the Views himself. 

Booh, Newspapers, Panoramas, Sfc, — "Kaiser, next '^Slschmann's.' 
His Fans of the Rigi are admirable. 
' — Stocker, opposite, has also a large library, 
j Circulating Library — Daniker (Pfankuch), close to the lake and 
! Pension ^schmann. Many English works. Pretty fancy-articles. 
I And many matters useful to Travellers. 

Diorama of the E-igi-Kulm— Meyer's, near ^ the Lion ; ' ex- 
ceedingly well worth seeing. Equally interesting to those who 
have, and those who have not, seen the glorious reality. The light 
is exquisitely managed and natural. 

Stauffer's Museum, close to Hhe Lion:' Admirable groups 
of Alpine Animals, Birds, etc. Collections of Butterflies. Botani- 
cal specimens. (Duplicates made to order well and reasonably.) 

Gen. Pfyffer's E;elief of Switzerland — Lowengraben, beside 
the Casino. A raised model, 270 ft. square, of the most important 
parts : the original of all succeeding ones : invaluable for afford- 
ing a clear idea of the country and one's tour. 

Letters to England arrive the third day. 

Passport for the Papal States should here be vised by the 
Papal Nuncio, in the ^ Himmelreich.' 

Situation— On the Lake which it names, and the river Reuss, 
the Alps semicircling from green Rigi, 1., to cloudy Pilate, r. 

From the Promenade in front of the principal Hotels — 
Sigh-ts — 1 . Index of the Alpine chain, on the parapet wall of 
the lake. 

2. Cathedral, St. Leger, 17th cent. Its great Bell bears the 
mediaeval inscription, 

* Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango,' 
I summon the living, bewail the dead, disperse the storms — 

and its effect, rung in tempests, is grand. — Cloisters around, 
peculiar : two paintings of Deschwanden. 

3. * The Lion ;' behind the baths on Ziirich-rd. : 8 min. walk, 
rd. 1. at foot of Cathedral-steps : a noble work after Thorwaldsen. 
28| ft. long, 18 ft. high, 

K 



84 LITERXE. 

'Sculptured in the livin.G^ rock 

With more of majesty and grace than if upon a marble pedestal ' — (Tupper) 

to the Swiss who perished at Paris in guarding the Royal Fa- 
mily of France, Aug. 10 and Sept. 2, 1792. The Lion is de- 
fending in the death-agony the French coat of arms intrusted to 
him. Mass, on the former date, in the adjacent chapel, to 
which the Duchesse d'Angouleme, daughter of Louis XYI, pre- 
sented the altar-cloth. 

4. 1st Covered Bridge, ' Kapellbriicke,' 1303, nearest the lake^ 
between ^Eschmann's and the Post — 154 roof-paintings from 
Swass history and the lives of St. Leger and St. Maurice, the 
patrons of Lucerne — antique, but constantly renewed. 

5. Old Roman Beacon-tower [Lucerna) in the middle of the 
Kapellbriicke, from whence the city is said to have been named, 
and where the Archives are preserved. 

6. Jesuits' Church, beyond : handsome interior. 

7. Arsenal, fm'ther on, same side of the river : sword of Tell, 
spoils from Sempach, &c. 

8. 2nd Covered Bridge, ^ Miihlenbrlicke,' 1403, close to the 
Basle Gate — 36 roof-paintings from ' the Dance of Death.' 

Short Walks — 1. To the Allemvinden, * all the winds,' 20 min. 
— By Outer Yv^eggis Gate, turn sharp to the 1., round the exterior 
of City-walls, 10 min., broad path: r. to a cow-house, foot-path 
thence r. up a field and into the garden on top. An incompar- 
able panorama. 

2. To the Little Rigi, ' Dietschenberg.' 50 min. up, 35 doT\Ti- 
— Through the Cathedral-yard. Then, centre rd., up towards 
Adligenschwyl. Small fountain, reached in 20 mJn. Up 2nd 
avenue on the r., beyond it. 20 min. more, at a painting of the 
Agony, turn 1. through private grounds (courteously permitted), 
and by gravelled walk r. into a gi'ove, beyond which a superb 
view. Still more superb at sunset or sunrise, and a good substi- 
tute for the Rigi itself. 

3. To the Linden, 25 min. Same as last to the fountain, 
20 min. Opposite Avhich, up foot-path skirting a grove, 5 min. 
to the top — fine view. 

Descent — on the other side, to Ziirich-rd., past ' the Lion,* 
Outer Weggis Gate, to Lucerne, 35 min. 

Longer Walks and Drives — 4. To Adligenschwgl, a pretty 
village, very Swiss, 4^ mis. Carriage-rd. — Same as last to the 
fountain; thence, straight on. ml. before Adligenschwyl, a 
by-road, hid in an angle, leads down 1., with a charming view, 
to Ebikon on the Ziirich-rd. in \\ ml., whence to Lucerne 
3^ mis. 



LUCERNE. 



85 



Second route, 5 mis. Kiissnacht-rd. for 1 ml. Beyond the 
turn to Seebm'g, romantic foot-path 1. ; whence past chalets. 

5. To the Rothsee, ' red lake.' — Ziirich-rd. for 1|- ml. Then, 
foot-path 1. 5 min. A lonely picturesque water, 2 mis. long — ■ 
ferry across — good fishing. 

6. To the Gutsch, 25 min. — Basle-rd., 10 min. to the Hospital- 
church ; immediately behind which, 1., steps ascend through trees 
to two houses r., whence a fine view — the Old Feudal Towers 
of the City-battlements, A. D. 1350, well grouped beneath, and 
the Lake and Alps beyond. (Turner has painted it.) 

This walk can be prolonged. Gibraltar is close by. 

7. To the Renldoch, 4 mis. Carriage-rd. — Berne-rd. for 3f mis., 
to the first descent, on the verge of which a by-road runs 1. 
through this gorge at the base of Pilate ; and round by Krienz, 
3 mis., into Lucerne by the Spital Gate in 3 mis. more. 

8. To Herrgottswald, ' God's Wood,' a pilgrimage. — Carriage- 
rd. (reversing preceding) to half-way between Krienz and the 
Renkloch, 4|- mis. Thence 1 hr. through a forest, by various 
foot-paths, converging to a bridge, and up some thousand wooden 
steps to a chapel and auberge. Picturesque view. 

9. To the Eigenthal — Same as last to Herrgottswald. Thence 
1 hr.'s walk. A lovely valley of Pilate. Auberge. 

Excursions — 10. Ascent of Pilate, 6600 ft. 

A most interesting day. Magnificent view, rivalling, if not 
surpassing, the Rigi. 

(*) Steam to Hergiswyl, f hr., page 90. Or 

If) Carriage-rd. to Winkel, 3|- mis. Thence, boat to Hergiswyl, 
f hr. — Thence, good easy road, horses, porte-chaises, guides always 
in attendance, to the Klimsenhorn Hotel, highly convenient (5000 
ft.) and very good, 3|- hrs. ; whence, 40 minutes to the top. 

(3) From Alpnach, see pages 90, 102. 

This is its ' pitiful story : ' Pontius Pilate, expatriated to Gaul 
by Tiberius, maddened in conscience, wandered hither, and 
stabbed himself near the summit. The storms usualb^ collect 
here before breaking — so his unabsolved spirit is thought to haunt 
the place. But a Utilitarian Age turns his ' adversity ' to its own 
* sweet uses,' and makes him answer for a weather-glass ! thus 



11. To the Rotzloch, short narrow gorge between the Lake of 
Lucerne and the route of the Briinig, wild and pictorial, — 
\st ivay. By row-boat from Lucerne, 2 hrs., see Tarif, p. 89. 
2nd. By steam, 1 hr., p 90. 

Back, cither to Stansstad, or to Beckenried (7 mis.), p. 90, car- 
riage-rds., for steamers to Lucerne. 



Swiss 'saw.' 



English doggrel. 



"VVann Pilatus triigt sein Hut 
Daim wird das Wetter gut, 
Aber hat er einen Degen 
Gibt es llegen. 



When Pilate wears his hat 
The weather woii't be wet, 
But if he bares his sword 
Get all your wraps on board. 



86 



THE RIGI. 



The Rotd>erg, hill, above the Rotzloch, contains the ruins of the 
Austrian bailiff Landenberg's castle, desti'oyed by the revolted 
Confederates, Jan. 1, 1308, see Gnitli, p. 91. 

12. To Engelherg (may be added to the preceding). 5 J hrs. 
Described fully, p. 104. 

13. Uj) the St. Gotthard Pass, at least one day's excursion, to 
Andermatt or Hospenthal, is most strongly recommended. De- 
scribed fully, p. 92. 

Routes from Lucerne. 

To Bac/atz, p. 78. 

To Zurich — by Zug, 5 J hrs. ; — by 
Olten and Schinznach, 4| hrs. ; — p. 79, 



To Basle, rail, 4 hrs., p. 81. 
To lialy, steam and dil , p. 89, 92. 

See follovviuG^ sections also. 



To Berne— hy the Brilnig ;— by the 
Entlibuch ;— by'Olten ;— p. 101, 
To Thiui, by'same, p. 102. 
To the Bernese Oberlaiid, p. 102. 
To Soleurcy Geneva, p. 81, 136. 



XXYIII. THE EIGI. 

This plan of positions may be useful. See also Map, p. 89. 



•Lake of Zug. Goldau 

! 

From Zurich/ Arth — 



Lake of Lowertz. 



-Lowertz - 



Schwytz 



Kiissnacht 
Lucerne. 



Kulm- 



-Staffel- 



-Scheideck 
i 



Weg-g-is Gersau......... Brunnen 

Lake of Lucerne. 

To the Knlm — from Kiissnacht, Weggis, Arth, and Goldau. 
To the Scheideck — from Gersau. 

Ascent — From any, easy, well trodden. Guide needless. 
Deseending^Y^o one should ride : the posture is painful. 



Tarifs. 
"From 
Wegg-is, ^ 
Kiissnacht, )> 
Jmmensee, J 
Arth, ^ 
Goldau. 5- 



To the Staffel. 

8 fr. (back, 5) 

9 fr. (back, 6) 



Horse and man. 

To the Kulm. 



10 fr. (back, 6) 
10 fr. (back, 6) 



Porte-chaise, each bearer. 

To the Kulm. 



To the Staffel. 
4i fr. (back, 4) 

rj fr. (back, 4i) 



6 fr. (back, 5^) 
6 fr. (back, 5) 



Young guide, or carrier of 15 lbs. luggage. 



To the Kulm, IJ 



hr. from the top. 
And, the sunset and 



I. TO THE KULM 

All the routes meet at the Staffel Hotel, 
Let nothing short of the Kulm satisfy you. 
sunrise being everything, sleep there, if iwssiUe — for Istly, the 
only security for getting a bed is an early telegraphic despatch, 
2 fr., from the Lucerne Post; and 2ndly, a bed got, ^Macbeth/ 
under some hundred multiplications of mortal clamour, 'doth 
murder sleep' — one room No. 20 possess.?^/ (?) an additional source 
of distraction. The evening and morning temperature is very 
chilly — wraps therefore are required ; and a brisk walk up from 
a lower hotel, immediately before sunset or sunrise, and a wait 
in the chill, emphatically iconH do. 



I 



THE EIGI. 



1. From Wegg-is, 1400 ft.— 

Hotel de la Concorde, recommendable. 

Hotel du Lion, recommendable. 

Lucerne to Weggis — steam, f hr., p. 90. 

Time. 3j hrs. up, 2j down. — Path behind, bearing to the r. 

l~ hr. Chapel of the Holy Cross, * Heiligenkreutz.' 

~ hr. Felsenthor, ' Gate of Bocks,' a singular passage. 

i hr. Kaltbad, ^ Cold-bath,' a Spring of only 4'' Reaumur 
{4P Fahr.), and coldest in the hottest season — its waters bene- 
ficial for headache, nervous affections, &c., and its air of exqui- 
site purity. 

. Hotel du Eigi Kaltbad, spacious, excellent. First-rate 
Femion, reasonable. AVell situated for rest or health. 
Baths, Goats' milk, and Petit-lait cure, are here. 
Height, 4500 ft. Rustic festival, Aug. 10. (At the back 1. 
is the Schwesterborn, ' Fountain of the Sisters,' a refuge to which 
Angels conducted three beautiful Virgins from the dishonourable 
addresses of their Austrian rulers in the time of Tell. Hence, a 
foot-path may advantageously be followed to the Kanzli, ~ hr., a 
platform with fine view of Lucerne, &c., and thence to the StaiFel, 
I- hr. more.) 
' I hr. StafFel. 
' I" hr. Kulm — see below. 
■ 2. From Arth, 1400 ft.— 
Hotel de l'Aigle Noir, recommendable. 

Lucerne to Arth — carriage-rd., 14 mis., p. 91 : or steam to Kliss- 
nacht, f hr., omnib. to Immensee, f hr., steam to Arth, f hr., p. 98. 

Zurich to Arth — p. 80. Map, p. 65. 
- Tiine — High-rd. to Goldau, ^ hr. : then r. hrs. up, 2| down. 

(Or, steeper path direct to Unter-Dachli, see below.) 
The advantage of this approach is, that nothing is anticipated of 
the fine view above, until the Staflfel is reached. 

3. From G-oldau, 1400 ft.— 

' Hotel and Pension du Cheval, excellent, English spoken. 

Time — 3i; hrs. up, 2\ down. The easiest path. 

1 hr. Unter-DachH, 3000 ft.— (Path from Arth, above.) Views 
of the Rossberg's catastrophe, p. 99. 13 Romish, stations ' lead to 

1 hr. ' The Klosterli,' or 3Iaria ziim schnee (' Our Lady of the 
snow') 's hospice. Rustic festival, July 22; pilgrimage, Aug. 5, 
Sept. 6. (Path to the Scheideck, next page, 1 hr.) 

10 min. higher, the stalactite grotto of Bruderbalm. 

f hr. Staffel. 

f hr. Kulm — see below. 

4. From Kiissnacht, 1400 ft. — 

Hotel and Pension du Lac, recommendable. 
Lucerne to Kiissnacht — steam, I hr., p. 89 : or rd., 7h mis., p. 98. 
Time — 3 hrs. up, 2 down. New path, and shortest. 



88 



TIIE EIGI. 



I hr. Tell's Chapel in the Hohle Gasse, p, 98. 
1| hr. Seeboden-Alp and chalet. 
1 hr. Staffel. 
i hr. Kulm — see below. 
nigi Kulm, 5500 ft.— 
Hotel. 

Regia, * queenly* — Ktibn, ^top.' The =^^-^^^^^^^^m. 
sun's setting and rising (when visible — ^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^ 
alas, for the needful qualification!) are 
heralded by a piping. But let your own 
appearance outside herald that. In the 
latter case especially, it is the paling of 
darkness^ seen by so few, that constitutes 
the finer display. In the former, the light 
lingers in varying tints from faint white 
to rose-hue on the immense series of serried Alpine peaks, from 
the Sentis 1., Kurfiirsten, Glarnisch, Todi. Scheerhorn, Windgelle, 
Bristenstock, Blackenstock, Engelberger-Rothstock, Tiths, Finster- 
aarhorn, Schreckhorn, Wetterhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, Bliim- 
lis Alp, to Pilate r. Below, from the Black Forest on the north- 
east, darkness broods down upon the Lakes of Hallwyl, Zurich, 
Zug, Lucerne, and 12 others, to the Juras on the north-west. 
Early and late ! Earth's matin and vesper altars are kindled to the 
glory of its Creator. Yet here, on the threshold of the Sanctuary, a 
suicide took place, June 22, 1826! 

II. TO THE SCHEIBECK. 

Tourists from Fluelen and Beckenried are advised to ascend b?/ 
ihe Scheideck to the Kulm. Good road. Magnificent views. 4 
hrs. Horse, 12 fr. 

1. Erom Gersau, 1400 ft. — Inn, 
Lucerne to Gersau — steam. If hr., p. 90. 
Time — 2 hrs. up, \\ dov,'n. 

Tarif — Horse, 7 fr. up, 6 down. Porte-chaise, each bearer, 4j fr. 
up, 3 fr. 80 c. down. 

2. Erom the Klosterli (see Ai^ih and Goldaic, p. 87), 1 hr. 
Kigi Scheideck, 5000 ft. View, sunset and sunrise, similar to 

that from the Kulm. 

Hotel du Rigi Scheideck, on top, a large and excellent estab- 
lishment. ' Cure du Petit Lait.' Reasonable prices. Fine pure air. 

Geolog'y — Nagelfliihe (conglomerate) and granite ; the former? 
about Gersau, alternating with red and dark green schist, passing 
gradually into limestone — very curious. 

Botany — Pine, nut, vine, lily, gentian, rhododendron (alpine 
rose), anemone, orchis, carduus defloratus, carcx ca^spilosa, atha- 
manta cretensis, betula, galanthus, calcalia, prunella, allium cari- 
natum, andropagon ischucmum, arnica, asperula, &c. 




LAKE OF LUCERNE. 



89 



Routes from the Rigi 
which, after sunrise above, may be pursued the same day. 

1. To Zurich. By Arth, p. 87,99, steam to Zug, either carriage over Albis— or 
to Horgen, whence steam, p. 79, 80, — to Zurich. 

2. To the Bernese Oberland. By Weggis, 2^ hrs. : row-boat to Alpnach, 2 men, 2^ 
hrs., 6 fr. and ^ fr. each, trinkgeld : voiture to Lungern, 4 hrs,, 1 horse 12 fr„ 2 horses 
20 fr. Horse or porte-chaise over the Briinig to Meyringen, 3 hrs,, 10 fr. — Pedestri- 
ans can economise this, by driving to Sachseln only, 2 hrs., and walking thence easily 
to Meyringen. Pages 87, 90, 102. 

3. Towards Italy. By Weggis: steam to Fluelen, 2 hrs,, voit. up the St. Gotthard 
as far as Hospenthal, by daylight, 5^ hrs. Pages 87, 90 — 95. 

4. To Basle^ By Weggis : steam to Lucerne ; rail to Basle. Pages 87, 90, 81. 

5. To Berne, direct. By Weggis : steam to Lucerne : rail to Berne ; p, 87, 90, lOli 



XXIX. THE LAKE OF LUCEEHE. 

Steamers. — The hours are continually changing, hut the time 
occupied from place to place is marked. Frequent departures in 
the day from every point. There are three distinct courses for 
the East, West, and Centre routes given below. Return-tickets 
available for 3 days. Cuisine on board. 



* Mythen* jMuottaThal] Axenberg Tell' s )J< Chapel 
Schwytz p 



Brunnen^ 
Kindlismord * ^ 



Lowertz i Lake 
Rossberg Slip 
Goldau o 

Arth o Gersau o 

■'l^^^^^> Rigi Scheideck * 

Kulm Weggis o 

The Lake 
- * Isle 



? Bfirgeln 
Ultdorf- 



-(St. 



Kussnacht o. 




"^^LSL3^.L, ^Fluelen : Gotthard Pass) 

y *GrUtli (Surenen • Pass) 

?....o Seelisberg \ (Joch Pass) 

? o Beckenried o Engelberg 

i * Buochserhorn 

^jj^^Burgenstock^y^ * Stanzerhorn 

o'^tansstadt 

o (Briinig Pass) 

Herg:iswyl Alpnach Sarnen 

* Pilate 



How-Boats. 

Between Lucerne and For Boat. Per Ptower. 

Kiissnacht, Stansstadt, or Weggis .. .. 1 fr. 50 c. 1 fr. 50 c. 

Alpnach 1 fr. 50 c. 1 fr. 90 c. 

Any excursion, per hour — 75 c. — 75 c. 

Returns, half, if the stoppage at the place of destination do not exceed 3 hours. 

The Lake of Lucerne — properly Vierwaldstatter See, ' Lake 
of the Four Forest Cantons,' Lucerne, Schwytz, Uri, Unterwalden 
— combines ' what is grand in nature with what is sublime in 
human conduct ' — Sir J. Macintosh. Length, 26 mis. Cruciform 
— ^ that sacred lake '—Rogers. Above the sea, 1400 ft. 

EAST ROUTE, 

Lucerne to Kussnacht, 1., steam, f hr., (or boat, H hr.) Pretty. 
Half-way, 1., ruins of Neu Habsburg Austrian fort, dismantled 
by the Swiss, 1352. 
§ hr. Kussnacht — 

Hotel and Pen'^ion du Lac, well situated on the Lake, close to 
Steamers, good, moderate. Good horses, carriers, and guides — 



90 



LAKE OF LUCERNE. 



For the Rigi Kuhn, new rd., 3 hrs. np, see page 87, 
For the Lake of Zag and Ziirich, p. 80, 98. 

^VEST ROUTE. 

Lucerne to Alpnach, r., steam, \\ hr. (or boat, 3 hrs.) Fine. 
J hr. Hergiswyl — 

For the Ascent of Pilate, 3i hrs., see page 85. 

^ hr. Stansstad — poor inns. 

The town, resisting the French Repubhc, was sacked in 1798, 
Old tower, 1309, by the water. The snowy TitUs, 10,600 ft., ma- 
jestic in the back-ground. 

For Engelberg, the Joch and Surenen Passes, p. 102 — 104. 
To Beckenried, on another part of the Lake, see below, cross-rd., 8 mis., 1h 
hr.'s drive, picturesque. 

~ hr. Rotzlocli gorge — See ' Excursions from Lucerne,' p. 85 — - 
Hotel Eotzloch, Beautifully placed. Good Pension. 
• Most pictorial. Paper-mills. And Falls of the Mehlbach. 
\ hr. Alpnach— Celebrated for its ' Slide.' 
Hotel du Cheyal Blanc. ^ 

For the Ascent of Pilate, 3 hrs. > See page 102. 

For the Br'dnig Pass, and Bernese Oberland. % 

CENTRE ROUTE. 

Lucerne to Fluelen, steam, 2|- hrs. Magnificent. 

~ hr. 1., near the common cross of the lake, a tiny isle 

where Dumas imagines a duel. 

The snowy tops of the Bernese Alps come exquisitely Into view on the r. Their 
order, faciris:" them, is— from left to r., Finsteraarhorn, 14,200 ft. — Schreckhorn, 
12,500 ft.— Wetterhorn, 11,500 ft.— Wellhorn,: 11,000 ft.— Viescherhorner, 12,600 ft. 
— Monch, 12,500 ft.— (Eisrer, 12,300 ft., and Jungfrau, 13,000 ft , like a clump in the 
middle) -Breithorn, 12,000 ft.— Schwartzhorn, 9000 ft— Pilate, 6600 ft., r. 

i hr. 1. Y/eggis — ■ 

Hotel de la Concorde, very good. Pension on lake, close by. 
Hotel du Lion, recommendable, and satisfactory. 

For the Rigi Kulm ; one of the ascending points, 3.^- hrs. up, p. 87. 

Beyond, the narrowing of the Rigi 1. with Biirgenstock r. forms 
the Nasen, * Noses,' where a new scene is presented — the Bay of 
Buochs r., the Buochser, 5600 ft., and Stanzer-horn, 6000 ft., 
overlooking it like sentinels. 

J hr. r. Beckenried — Alhergo del Sole. 

For Liincjcrn, dil., every morning, in 5] hrs., ;) fr. 20 c, p. 103. 
To the Seelishery, see below, cliar-rd., 2h hrs., 7h mis. 

3: hr. 1. Gersau — ■ 

An independent republic for 400 years, annexed by the French 
in 1798. A. chapel, Kindlismord ('child-murder'), commemorates 
the act of a poor minstrel, returning from a wedding to his 
famished offspring. — Disembarking point 

For the Rigi Scheideck, 2 hrs. up, p. 88. . 



LAKE OF LUCERNE. 



91 



i hr. 1. Brunnen — 

Hotel d'Aigle d'Or, excellent; the host and hostess sing Ger- 
man songs admirably (but perhaps this is a secret). Pension 
attached, very good. Charming position and views. 
^ Hotel du Cheval Blanc, Post, close to the lake, is recom- 
mended from the good character of its landlord. Yery reasonable. 
It has a good Pension immediately opposite. 

Trout-fishing close by. 

Paintings of the three Confederates of Griitli on the outside 
of the custom-house, in memory of the jftrst confederation formed 
here after the battle of Morgarten, 1315. In the distance, Schwytz, 
at the foot of the Mythen, ' Mitres,' 5800 ft., p. 99. 

Boat for l to 4 persons, all comprised, return, etc. ; eacJi boatman, 2 required 
—To Griitli ,|hr., 1 fr. ; on to TelVs Chapel, f hr., 1 fr., more ; on to Fluelen, hr. 
more. — To Kindlismord (see above), 1 hr,, 1 fr. 

Horse and man — Up the Stoos, 4000 ft, 2 hrs., 10 fr. ; on, up the Frohn-Alp^ 
2 hrs., 5 fr., more. Magnificent views. 

Carriage— To Schwytz, ^ hr., 1 horse, 3 fr. ; 2 hor., 5 fr. 

2b Goklau, 2 hrs., 1 hor., 9 fr. ; 2 hor., 15 fr. ; for Lowertz, the Rossberg, the 

Rigi, Arth, Zug, Lucerne, p. 99. 
7b Morgarten., Einsiedeln^ Lake TFallenstadt^ Ragatz, etc., p. 79. 
Through the Muotta Thai, to Glarus and Stachelberg, p. 100. 

Now opens the gorge-like, glacier-capped Bay of Uri, r. 

Opposite Brunnen, r., is Treib landing-place for 

The Seelisberg, (horses, etc., waiting,) ascent 1 hr. to 
The Pension Sonnenberg, and Kuhrort, 2400 ft., a large establishment, ex- 
cellent and reasonable (4, 5, 6 fr. a-day). Charming position and pure air. 
The Niederbauen, 6000 ft., 3 hrs. higher ; view of the x\lps, excelling the Rigi. 

Opposite, r. Grriitli, * meadow' — a green, 650 ft. above the 
water — where Arnold, Fiirst, and Stautfacher, with 30 men of 
Unterwalden, Uri, and Schwytz, swore, Nov. 8, 130/, to free 
their country from the Austrians without retaliating their injuries ; 
an oath held to have been 'hallowed' (Rogers) by the bursting 
forth of three springs on the spot, still flowing. The rising took 
place Jan. 1, 1308, and was so well concerted, that all the Austrian 
forts were simultaneously seized, dismantled, and their possessors 
were expelled the country in the entire spirit of the oath. — A row- 
boat from Brunnen is necessary for those who would land here or at 




\ hr. 1. Tell's Chapel, the second of 
the series, see p. 93, — on a thin ledge, 
* Tellenplatte,' of the Axenberg, which 
rises perpendicularly behind, 2000 ft. — 
founded in 13S0, 114 old personal com- 
panions of the Archer being present, in 
memory of his leaping here ashore in the 
storm, through which Gessler's bark was 
bearing him to the dungeon of Kiiss- 
nacht. Mass annually, the Friday after 
Ascension-day. 



92 



ST. GOTTHARD PASS. 



1 hr, Fluelen — 

Hotel de la Ceoix Blanche, well spoken of, and highly 
recommendable. 

Hotel de l'Aigle d'Ou, very good. Charming view. 

The conical mountain in the centre is the Bristenstock, 9900 
ft The route of the St. Gotthard begins : as follows. 

XXX. LUCERNE— ST. GOTTHARD PASS— ITALY. 

Steam to Fluelen. Dil. to Milan. Total 27 hrs. 

Throng-h-fares, iiiterieur and banquette, from Lucerne, to — Fluelen, 4fr. 90 c. — 
Andermatt, 12 fr. (coupe, 13 fr. 25 c.)— Bellinzona, 28 fr. 10 c. (coupe, 32 fr. 10 c.)— 
Milan, 40 fr. 60 c. (coupe, 46 fr. 50 c.) 

From Fluelen^ to Italy. 

1. By Diligence, thrice daily. To Bellinzona, 14^ hrs.; thence — either (^) to 
Matjadino or Locarno, Lago Maggiore, 1 J hr., — or (b) to Como, 7^ hrs., (-whence to 
Milan, rail l^hr. more.) 

2. By VoUure. To Arasteg, 2\ hrs.' drive; a seat, 3 fr.— 2 horses to Andermatt 
or Hospenthal, 7 hrs., 30 fr. — to Airolo, GO fr. — to Bellinzona, 100 fr. — whence, in 
conrinuation, 

(a) — to Magadino, or Locarno, 120 fr. — to Lugano, 125 fr. — to Como, 150 fr. 

Despatch a note the previous day to one of the hotels at Flue- 
len or Altdorf, stating requirements, and the steamer by which Lu- 
cerne will be left. 

Omnibus — ^between all the steamers and Altdorf, \ fr. 

Scenery — Rich and grand: solemnly heautifid is its proper 
characteristic. 

Advice — ^Exertion should be made to see the Pass at least up 
to Andermatt. So far constitutes the Valley of the Reuss. Those 
who go up by voiture can arrange to have a return'One ?iext day 
do^vn again. Pedestrians walk from Amsteg. 

It is possible to go up, and back to Altdorf or Fluelen, ia the one day, by voi- 
ture ea-ira-post: price, fixed by Government, 40 fr. 

History — The French, Austrians, and Russians fought for 
every foot of ground from the lake to the summit, in 1799. The 
Austrians and Swiss under St. Julien carried the DeviFs Bridge 
in May, and expelled the French under Soult. The French, under 
Lecourbe, Gudin, and Loison, re-advanced from every side in 
Aug., and forced the Austrians in turn to retreat, by Andermatt 
and Dissentis. The Russians under Suwarow ascended from Italy 
in Sept., and drove down the French to the lake. They were 
then themselves compelled to retreat, by the Schachen Thai, p. 
93; and the French ultimately vacated the Pass, in May, 1800. 
(See yS/maroto's retreat, p. 100.) 

Statistic — The road was constructed subsequently by the 
Swiss, in 12 years. Completed in 1832. 

From Fluelen, on the Lake of Lucerne, preceding section. 

2 mis. (I St.) Altdorf, an ' Old Town'— Pop. 2600. 
Hotp:l de la Clef d'Oii, Post, excellent. 

Sight — Two Fountains in the thoroughfare : the Ist, where Tell 



THE TALE OF TELL. 



93 



stood, in directing the * hesitating shaft ' (Wordsworth) at the apple 
on his child's head — it bears a statue of the Archer and Boy : 
the 2nd, v/here the child stood — the very tree occupied this, up 
to 1567 — ^it bears a statue of the Magistrate who had it erected. 
This is Tell's Tale : The Swiss were fretting beneath the Aus- 
trian yoke of the 14th cent. One of its ' brief authorities,' Gess- 
ler, sought to feel the local pulse by ordering the passers to do 
homage to his hat. Tell refused. Gessler seized his child, and, 
wishing to see a sample of the father's far-famed skill with the 
€ross-bow, commuted his punishment into the carrying off of an 
apple from the head of the former. To avoid w^orse consequences, 
the fatal shot was taken — and successfully ; but, the secretion of 
a second arrow being detected, Tell boldly confessed that it was 
for Gessler's own heart, had the other slain his child. The com^- 
mutation was rescinded, the child remitted to durance vile, and 
Tell hurried in chains into a bark for Gessler's stronghold at 
Kiissnacht. A tempest rose : Tell was freed to take the helm : he 
leaped ashore at the Axenberg on the lake, p. 91 — and, reaching 
Kiissnacht before the crew, gave Gessler that final evidence of 
his skill and feeling, p. 98, w^hich, however wrong, can scarcely 
be regarded as uncharacteristic of such an era and such anxie- 
ties. 

The very existence of Tell is called in question. The Hang- 
man of Altdorf, by order of the authorities, burnt publicly Hal- 
ier's book to this effect. The ancient erections of the three 
Chapels, at Biirgeln, see below, the Axenberg, p. 91, and Kiiss- 
nacht, p. 98, look like reality. But even if Tell never lived, the 
characters and the events are true to the spirit of their age, and 
the spots cannot be disenchanted of their memories. 
Excursion — To Biirgeln : auberge excellent. 
Char-road, 2 mis., or horse-path, 1., f hr. 
In the opening of the Schachen Thai : view from the Church- 
terrace. Close by, William Tell's 1st Chapel marks the site 
of the house in which he was born ; and the covered bridge 
below marks where he died — a proper death for a hero — in 
struggling to save a child swept down in an overflow of the 
Schachen. — (For 8aioarow''s retreat, see p. 100.) 
Cross Route — To Stachelherg, by the Klausen Pass, continua- 
tion of preceding, loses its grand attraction if made from this 
side: described fully, p. 71. 

To Engelberg, by the Surenen Pass, 8 hrs., p. 104. 

9 mis, (3 St.) Amsteg, 1700 ft. 

Hotel du Cerf, well placed, clean, good. Capital table-d'hote 
at If p. m., trout, etc. Pension reasonably. Horses and carriages. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, highly recommended. Table 
d'hote, horses, carriages, &c. 

At the base of the Bristenstock, 9900 ft. Everything won- 



94 



AMSTEG — SrSTEX PASS — DE^IL's EEIDGE. 



derfully wild. Continual ascent from this to Andermatt (6 hrs/ 
walk). 

Excmsiox — Up the Illademn Tlial, I. A romantic narrow 
gorge. Entomological. It will well repay exploration to 
2 lirs.' walk from Amsteg. (1 hr. farther, Hufi Glacier.) 

Cross RorrE — To Dissentis, p. 77, by the Kreutzli Pass, fine. 
Continuation of preceding, 9 hrs. more. Guide essential. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Wasen — Pop. 600. — Inn, middling. 
A large village, on a lofty mound, the terminal moraine (tomb ?) 
of a departed Glacier, extremely striking. 

Cross RorrE — 1. To Jleijringen-. 2. To the Grimsel. By 
the Susten Pass. Horse-path. Uninteresting to 

5 hrs. Top of the Pass, 7000 ft. Steinen^Glacier on the 
1. Its encroachments have already changed the route, and 
its family of little glaciers will soon entirely block up the 
way. 

1 hr. Stein — solitary auhercfe, very clean and fair — the 
only fit sleeping-place on the whole route. Char-rd. into the 
Yailey of the Aar, through the Gadmenthal, interesting. 

2 hrs. Gadmen — wirthshaus, and petty village. 

2f hrs. Imhof — auherge. On the thoroughfare between 
Meyringen and the Grimsel, p. 107- Hence 

To Meyringen, r. Char-road., 1^ hr. ^valk or drive. 
2b the Grimsel, 1. Horse-path, 6.5 hrs. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Gresclieneii — hamlet and gorge r., vrith wild 
glacier-view — the snow constituting a splendid relief to the lour- 
ing heights of rock around. The Pass narrows and grows 
savager. 

4i mis. (H St.) Teufelsbriicke, ^Devil's Bridge,' in ruins — 
held by the Austrians in 1799, blown up while being carried by 
the French. Held again by the French, and carried by the Rus- 
sians, with the aid of planks bound together by the soldiers' belts 
and scarfs. 

Higher up, a substantial modern bridge. 

Higher still, the Reuss comes down in a striking Fall. The 
writer has seen this latter rainbowed b)^ the morning sun upon 
its spray, and a little bird sitting on a wet rock in the centre of 
the rainlDow, where the channel had run literally red with the 
blood of French, Russians, and Austrians. 

Through the Urnerloch, 'opening of Uri,' a granitic mass, 
tunnelled for 200 ft., the road issues out of gloom into the calmly- 
contrasted Ursern Thai, where the savageness ends. 

f ml. St.) Andermatt, 4500 ft. 

Hotel des Trois Rois (Post), very good. 

Hotel du St. Gotthard, very good. Pensmi also, reasonably. 



FUKCA PASS — ^RIIOXE GLACIER. 



95 



Cross 'Route— Through the Valley of the Vorder-jRhein, I. ; to 
Coire and Ragatz, 2 days. Fine scenery. Described, p. 77. 
2 mis. (I St.) Hospentlial, 4500 ft. 

Hotel Meyerhof, Post, first-class, new, spacious, every com- 
fort and elegance, capital cuisine and wine, and moderate prices. 

Hotel du Lion d'Or. Cabinet of minerals on sale ; and re- 
lief of the St. Gotthard on view. 

Fine old Tower of the ancient Lords of Hospenthal. 
Cross Route — To the Grimsel^ 10 hrs., horse-path, by which 
the tour of the Bernese Oberland is usually connected with 
the route of the St. Gotthard. 
If there he ])lenty of time, take it, for the Furca is fine : but the 
more generally beautiful route of the Briinig, p. 102, must in 
no case be sacrificed. 

Guide needless. Path from behind the Church, r. 
U hr. Realp, 4800 it,— Inn. 
1 ml. beyond, the path divides — keep to the r., not down 
towards the river. Thenceforward * all is r.' Gradually the 
way, striving to rise between dun hills, ' drags its slow length 
along,' to 

3 hrs. The Furca, *fork' of the mountains, 7800 ft.— 
Auherge, very good — a lonely house. 

Excursions — ^1. To the Farca-horn, f lir. ; splendid view. — 2. To the Galen- 
stock, 3 hrs. up, 2 back ; guide, 6 fr. See below. 

Rapid descent for about 1 hr., r. ; then, across the valley, 
1. ; and 1 hr. more, r. 

2 hrs. Rhone Gletscher, ' Glacier of the Rhone ' — auherge 
at the foot of it. Though not the largest Swiss glacier, p. 108, 
nor the loveliest, p. 109, it gives the grand impression of a sea, 
voluming down from between the Gelmerhorn, 10,000 ft. 1., 
and the Galenstock, 11,000 ft. r., and, just as it touched the 
vale below, arrested and transmuted into snow. Said to ex- 
tend six leagues from the base upwards. Its melting forms the 
Source of the Rhone. A bridge crosses to the auherge; behind 
which, the path ascends plainly and painfully up the Maien- 
wand, to 

3 hrs. The Todten See, * lake of the dead/ — baptized in 
the blood of the French and Austrians, who disputed the pas- 
sage in 1799, and so named from their corpses being cast into 
it (or from those of lost Tourists, another version). — It is the 
Top of the Grims'el Pass, 7000 ft. Hence, path 1. to the Sim- 
plon, p. 108 ; r., marked by poles, to 

J hr. doivji (1 hr. up). Grimsel Hospice, 6000 ft., p. 10/. 

8 mis. (2f St.) Hospice of St. Gotthard — heels, etc. Height of 
the Pass, 6500 ft. The name 'St. Gotthard' refers to no single 
mountain, but a whole collection : in which the Rhine rises a few 



96 



.IIROLO — BELLINZOXA. 



leagues to the L, the Reuss in the Lake Lucendro close by, the 
Rhone a few leagues to the r. 

The ' chapel of the dead ' r. contains the mixed bones of French, 
Russians, and Austrians, fallen in 1/99. 

The inscription on the rock further on, ' Suwaroiv Victor,^ com- 
memorates the repulse of the Russians by the French, his direction 
to have his grave prepared on the spot where his soldiers failed, 
and their subsequent onset which carried all before it down to the 
Lake of Lucerne. 

The Val Tremola begins — tremulous,' from its exposure to ava- 
lanches. Sharp zigzags, 1 hr.'s drive to, but 3 hrs./yo???, 

S\ mis. (2f St.) Airolo, 4000 ft. 

Hotel de la Poste, best. 

Here is the first of a series of Towers constructed by the Lom- 
bard Kings, A. D. 774. 

Cross Route — To Ohergesteln, by the Niifenen Pass, 30 mis., 
lOhrs., — tame: p. 108. To the Val Formazza^ finer: page 166. 

The Val Levantina begins. The Tessin (Ital. Ticino) runs along- 
side to Bellinzona. Four tunnels conduct into the Stretto (-gorge") 
di Stalvedro, contested by the French and Russians, 1/99. Se- 
cond Lombard Tower. Third Tower, by Quinto. Dazio Grande 
gorge. 

m mis. (3i St.) Faido, 2300 ft.— Pop. 600. 

Vines, figs, and chestnut-trees. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Giornico, 1500 ft.— Pop. 750. 

Sights — The Churches of San Nicholas and Sta. 3Iaria, amongst 
the best specimens of Early Christian Architecture. 

Here, 15,000 Austrians were routed by 600 Swiss, in 1478. — 
From hence, all is thoroughly Italian. 

61 mis. (2| St.) Biasca — Inn, 

Cross Route — To Dissentis, p. 77, by the Lukmanier Pass. Not 
particularly interesting. To Olivone, 14 mis., dil. Thence, 
to Dissentis, horse-path, 11 hrs. 
The inundation of 1512, which followed an earthquake that 
barred up for a time the valley here, is traceable diovm to Bellin- 
zona. 

The Val Riviera begins. Charming scenery onwards. 

9| mis. (31 St.) Junction of the Bernhardin Route, see below. 

i ml. {\ St.) Arbedo — Here, under two barrows, to tiie 1., rest 
the slain of the Swiss and Austrians who met June 30, 1422, the 
former 3000 in number, the latter 24,000, with whom the victory 
remained. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Bellinzona, Germ. Bellenz, 700 ft.— Pop. 2000. 

Hotel Axgelo, Post, excellent, comfortable, attentive, best. 

Hotp:l de la Ville, formerly ' Aiglc d'Or.' 

Formerly, the hotels here were execrable. Now, thanks to the 



LUGANO. 



influence of this * Guide,' the Tourist is assured of as excellent a 
Hotel as can anywhere be found. 

Thoroughly scenic, fortified, and filling the whole valley. 

Its position is its History. As being the best opening north to 
or from Italy, its possession was equally valuable to Swiss and 
Lombardese, and by turns owned either master. 

Views — 1. From the fortress 'Castello Grande/ — 2. From the 
church * Santa Maria della salute.' — Both beautifiil. 

To SplugeUt Via Mala, Coire, Ragatz, Zurich, hy the Bernhardin Pass, p. 75. 

Beyond Bellinzona, the road divides. 

To the Lago Maggiore, Magadino or Locarno ; dils. in connexion with the Steam- 
ers, 1-| hr.'s drive, 2 fr. ; for Milan, Turin, Genoa, Simplon, p. 187. 
To Lugano, Como, Milan, as follows : 

The road runs nearly to Magadino ; then ascends 

71 mis. (21 St.) Monte Cenere, to top of Pass, I7OO ft.— (Top 
of Mount, 4000 ft. — foot-path, 2 hrs. higher.) Fine view. 

12 mis. (4 St.) Lugano, 900 ft.— Pop. 5000 R. C. 

Hotel and Pension du Parc, one of the best appointed in Italy. 
It possesses a mineral spring of magnesia and iron. 

Beautifully situated on the Lake — ' this little Naples, with its 
extinct Vesuvius ' — Zschokke. 

English Church Service, in Hotel du Pare. 

Excursions — 1. On the Lahe. Of the highest order of wildness. 
Length, 14 mis. Steamer: 1. to Porlezza, ist pi. 2 fr., 2nd pi. 
I fr., the finest portion: r. to Capolago, 1st pi. 90 c, 2nd pi. 
60 c. 

2. Ascent of Monte Salvatore, a spent volcano. Top, 2900 ft. 
Wooded the whole way, 2 hrs. up. Guide, 2 fr. Horse, 5 fr. 
View — ^in front, the Lakes and plain of Lombardy to the Cathe- 
dral of Milan ; behind, the Alps from Spliigen to Monte Rosa — 
magnificent. 

Cross Route — To the Lake of Como, Steam as above to Por- 
lezza, 1 hr. Voit. to Menaggio, 9 mis., 2 ^hrs., 1 horse, 6 
zwanz. ; or Omnibus, 3 zw. ; p. 186. 
The position of Lugano is very favourable for compacting the 
tour of the Swiss-Italian lakes, see p. 185. 

To Luino, on Lago Maggiore, 13 mis., 2^ hrs. drive, omn. in connection with 
the steamers on Lago Maggiore, p. 188. 

The high-rd. on to Como runs between the Lake and base of 
the Salvatore, a calcareous rock, insensibly merging into dolomite, 
which in turn, scarce perceptibly growing fciirer, finishes in deep 
brown porphyry. 

The Lake is ultimately left at 

9 mis. (3 St.) Capolago. The Steamers ply to this. 
2 mis. (I St.) Mendrisio— Pop. 1700.— Inn. 
ExcuiisiON—./4sce?225 of Ilonte Generosoj 5500 ft., * the Rigi of 



98 



ST. GOTTIL\IlD PASS. 



Italian Switzerland;' rich in the flora of the Southern Alps. 
5 hrs. up. f way, a poor casina (inn). Guide advisable. 
3 mis. (1 St.) Chiasso. — Passport. Frontier of Sardinian Lom- 
bardy. 

4| mis. (H St.) Como— Pop. 20,000, p. 187. 

1 ml. Camerlata station, v/hence, rail on to ]Milan. 

f hr. rail. Monza, the Roman ' Modoetia '— Pop. 16,000. 

Hotel. None recommended. 

Locahty very bright and aristocratic-looking. The villas of the 
Milanese Seignorie all around. 

Sights — 1. Duomo. Founded by Queen Theodolinda, a. d. 595. 
Highly ornamented. In the sacristy — most rare medieeval relics .: 
Charlemagne's *iron crown' {sacro cliiodo, alleged to have been 
beaten out of a nail from the Crucifixion) — with which Napoleon I 
crowned himself, ' Dieu me I'a donnee, gare a qui la touche ! ' 

2. Broletto, ' Towm-hall,' antique, Italo-Gothic. 

i hr. Milan, page 192. 



XXXI. THE BACK OE THE RIGI. 

Lucerne to Brunnen. Post-rd. 24| mis. (8^ st.) Dil. 5 hrs., 4 h'. 40 c. 

By the Lake of Zug, the Hossberg, and Lake Lowertz. 

Scenery — Of extreme beauty and deep interest. See 2Iaj)j p. 89. 
An easy day's delightful circuit. 

Adopt either of the folio vv in g modes of making it. 

1. For Pedestrians especially — Lucerne to Immensee, by steam 
and omnibus, 1^ hr. Immensee to Arth, by steam, f hr. Arth 
to Brunnen, carriage-road, 12 mis. 

2. By carriage, the whole way — the land-route being parallel to 
that of the lakes. 

Lucerne. Steam, p. 89, as v/ell as rd. to 

7h mis. Kiissnacht — Pop. 1000. Hotel dit Lac, best. 

Here the Lake of Lucerne is left. 

Omnibus between the Lucerne and the Zug steamers, ^fr. 

ml. The Hohle Gasse, ' Hollow way,' where Tell shot Gessler, 
p. 93, the road ascending between trees, and crowned with Tell's 
3rd Chapel in commemoration. Rapid descent to 
^ ml. Immensee — 

Beautifully situated on the Lake of Zug. Opposite is the 
village of St. Adrian, where a stone marks the falling of the arrow 
of Henry von Himenberg into the camp of the Swiss Confederates, 
Nov. 5, with the caution 'Guard yourselves at Morgarten,' which 
contributed to the defeat of the Austrians there, Nov. 16, 1315. 
The arrow and billet may be seen at Arth. 

From hence the road coasts the picturesque Lake of Zug. 



LAKE OF ZUG — ROSS BERG. 



99 



I Lake of Zug — Steamers, 

l' Zag to Immensee, in J hr., in correspondence with the direct through-services 
between Lucerne and Ziirich, page 80. 

Immensee to x\rth, in ^ hr., in continuation.— See Maps, p. 65, 89. 

Fares: Zug— Arth, 1st place, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 2nd place, 70 c. 

5 mis. Arth — 

, Hotel de l' Aigle Noir, charmingly placed and very good. 

1 To the Rigi Kulmy or Scheideck, horse-path, p. 87, 88. 

I Omnibus from the Steamers at Arth, to Goldau. 
! From hence the road runs between the Rigi, 5500 ft. r., and the 
Eossberg, 5000 ft. 1., both sides overspread by the debris from the 
; shp of the latter in 1806, when it sunk 1000 ft., and destroyed 4 
j villages, 3,000,000 frs. value, and 457 lives. 

ij Geology of the Rossberg— conglomerate (flint, etc.) above, sand percolated by 
I springs below. 1806 was rainy: the sandy base washed out. On the morning 

of Sep. 2, great fissures appeared ; hollow sounds succeeded ; and at 5 p. m. 
I down roiled the upper mass in a few minutes. — The destruction is best seen 

between Goldau and Lowertz. 

Hml. Goldau — One of the destroyed villages. 
Hotel and Pension du Cheval, excellent. Magnificent situa- 
tion. A capital resting-place, moderate. Host speaks English. 

To the Rigi Kulm, or Scheideck, horse-path, p. 87, 88. 

3 mis. Lowertz — 
j Village, and charming Lake, with the little isle of Schwanau, 
I on which stands most picturesquely a castle dismantled by the 
j Confederates, Jan. 1, 1308, p. 91. 

3 mis. Sewen — Inn. (Foot-path, r., in 3 mis., direct to Brun- 
nen, avoiding) 

1 ml. Schwytz— Pop. 5000 R. C. 

Hotel Hediger, very good and reasonable, with charming view. 
Hotel du Cheval, ' Rossli,' well placed, very good, and reason- 
able. 

Relief of the Muotta Thai ; historical positions of the French 
and Russians in 1799, p. 100; at M. Schindler's (|- fr.) 

At the base of the Mythen, ' Mitres,' 5900 ft. In the church- 
i yard is a plain stone inscribed Aloys de 'Reding Biheregg, Comes, 
I cufus nomen summa laus, 1818 — 'Aloys de Reding Biberegg, Count, 
' whose name is the highest eulogium, 1818' — he dauntlessly led 
his countrymen against the forces of the French Republic in 1798. 
And this canton gives the whole of Switzerland its title, the 
Schwytzers being most distinguished in the Austrians' defeat at 
Morgarten, 1315. 

To Morgarten, Einsiedeln, Lake of Zurich, Ragatz, etc., carriage -rd., p. 78, 79. 

1 J ml. Ibach village — 

I To the Muotta Thai, char-rd., next section. 

I 2 mis. Brunnen, on the Lake of Lucerne, p. 91. 



L 



100 



THE MUOTTA THAL. 



XXXII. THE MUOTTA THAL. 

From the Lake of Lucerae, to Glarus, Stachelberg, etc. 
Map, p. 65. 

Lucerne to Brunnen — 1. By the Lake, 2 hrs., p. 89 — 91. 
2. By Carriage-rd., 5 hrs., preceding sect. 

Fro7n Brunnen, on the Lake of Lucerne, p. 91. — Char-rd,, pretty 
and bad, to Muotta, 1 1 mis. 

High-road towards Schwytz, at first. 

^ ml. Ingebohl village. Hence, foot-path, r., by which Pedes- 
trians can diminish the distance 2 mis. 

H ml. Ibach village. Hence, char, r., through a narrow pic- 
turesque valley, the whole length of which was contested in 1799 
by the Russians under Suwarow (see below) against the French 
under Massena. The first covered-bridge was many times lost and 
won, and the Muotta stream ran red. 

Before the first covered-bridge, debouches the foot-path from 
Ingebohl, above. 

9 mis. Muotta, 2000 ii.—auberge, very humble. 

Two routes onward. 

1. To Glarus, 1. Horse-path. Horse and man, from Brunnen 
or Schwytz to Glarus, return comprised, 27 fr. 

Guide needless ; but get a boy (1 or 2 fr.) to carry your knap- 
sack to the Upper Cross, and be thankful. 

~ hr. to the base of the Stalden. Scenery, bare, to the Klonthal. I 
2| hrs. up the Pragel to the Cross on top, 5000 ft., the boundary | 
of Schwytz and Glarus : no view : houseless. ~ hr. level. Descent, \ 
f hr. — incline to the r. if doubtful, f hr. more, continued descent, 
Reichisau chalet, milk, coffee, and beds over a cow-house. De- 
scent, 1 hr. into the Klonthal, Auen — auherge ; a very fine valley, j 
overlooked by the massive seven-headed Glarnisch, 9000 ft., and i 
watered by a lake 3 mis. long (boat 1 fr. 50 c. for a fair-sized com- ' 
pany, row 50 min.). From Auen, good char-rd., 10 mis., to Glarus, ' 
1500 ft., p. 70. 

Then — 1. Glarus to Stachelberg, dil.-rd., 2 hrs., p. 70. ^ 
2. Glarus to Wesen, for Ragatz or Ziirich, p. 68, 70. , 

2. To Stachelberg, r. Char-rd. through the Bisi Thai, very fine, I 

7 mis,, to Eigen. Thence painful foot-path, but fine, 10 hrs.' toil, 1 

to Stachelberg, p. 71. Guide essential. j 

Then — Stachelberg to Glarus, Ragatz, or Zurich, see above. i 
! t i 

The line of Suwarow' s famous retreat before the French, in continuation of the , 

History at page 92. 1 

From Altdorf, 23,000 Russians, Sep. 26, 1799. Schdchen Thai, p. 93. Kinzig : 

Kulm Pass, 6,600 ft. high, p. 71, night of Sep. 27, 14 hrs.' march, severe losses, j 
Muotta Thaly above; the first troops reached this before the last had quitted Altdorf. 
Pragel Pass, above, Sep. 30. Glarus, p. 70 ; a few days indispensable rest. Sernft 



LUCERNE TO BERNE. 



101 



Thai and Pan«x Pass, 8000 ft. high, p. 70, 71, Oct. 5—10, 5 days' and nights' marching, 
single file, fearful calamities. Ilanz and Dissentis, p. 77. 

The whole — 18 days' and nights' continual struggle against enemies, precipices, 
cold, hunger, and fatigue. Loss — 6000 men ; almost all the horses ; all the artillery. 
Sixteen days after his return to Russia, Suwarow expired I 

Historical Model, with the positions of the French and Russians, may be seen at 
Schwytz, p. 99. 



XXXIII. LUCERNE— BERITE. 

Three ways. 

1st way. By the Brilnig, Brienz^ Interlahen^ and Thun, 
By far the more romantic and notorious. By the Briinig to 
Brienz, described fully, p. 102. Brienz to Interlaken,p. 1 10, to Thun, 
p. 1 18. Thun to Berne, p. 119. — This occupies only the same length 
of time as next to those who travel by voiture — viz., two days. 



2nd way. By the Entlihuch and Emmenthah 
Very picturesque, but not to be compared with the former. 
Post-rd. throughout — 55| mis., 18 J- stund. By voiture, 2 days. 

Lucerne to Berne, and vice versa, dils., in both directions, daily. 
Time— 10 hrs. Fare— 11 fr. 90 c. 

Lucerne, page 82. 

12 mis. (4 St.) Convent of Wertenstein, strikingly situated, 
the Lesser Emme winding round it. Onward, a charming valley. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Entlibuch — Hotel du Fort 

Celebrated for making cheese and wrestlers — the difference be- 
tween them being that the former may not disagree with any one, 
and the latter are sure to do so with themselves : see Introduction, 
p. xxix. The principal ' zwingfests ' are June 29 and Sept. 29. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Escholzmatt— 3000 it,— Hotel Lion, 

10 J mis. (3 J St.) Langnau — Hotel EmmenthaL 

Pretty and pastoral, on the Greater Emme. 

3| mis. (li St.) Signau — Pedestrians for Thun should here turn 
off, 1., by a good road amongst picturesque hills, 22 mis. 

4| mis. {\^ St.) Gross Hochstetten — 

Voitures for Thun here turn off, 1., 13 mis. Post-rd. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Berne, p. 125. 



3rd way. By rail throughout^ 5 hrs. 
Quickest, but least picturesque. 

Lucerne to 

01 ten, p. 81. Olten to 
Berne, p. 129. 



L 2 



102 



LUCERNE TO THE OBEELAND. 



XXXIV. LUCERNE— THUN. 

Three ways. 

1st. By the Briinig^ as preceding section. 

2nd. By the EntUhuch, as before, by Signau or Hochstetten. 

3rd. By Rail to Berne as last. Berne to Thun, p. 129. 



XXXV. LUCERNE— MEYRINGEN AND BRIENZ. 

Two ways. 

1st : By the Briinig Pass. 2nd: By the Joch Pass. 
Either forms a far superior entrance to the Bernese Oberland 
than the ordinary one up the St. Gotthard ^to the G-rimsel,' p. 95. 
. But the St. Gotthard itself must not be lost, p. 92. 

1. Pass of the Brurdg. 

Extremely beautiful throughout, and varied. Surprisingly little 
extolled in all existing Enghsh Handbooks. 

Two Routes — neither presenting any difficulty for ladies. Map, 
p. 89. 

First and best route. 
Lucerne to Alpnach, steam, 1^ hr. 

Carriage-rd. also, 7| mis., 1^ hr.' s drive ; roitures — 1 horse, 10 fr. ; 2 horses, 18 
fr. ; in progress. 

Alpnach to Lungern, voiture, 4 hrs., 1 horse, 12 fr. ; 2 horses, 20fr. 

Diligence also daily, in 3 hrs., in connexion with morning steamer from Lucerne. 

Lucerne, p. 82. Steam to Alpnach, passing 

|- hr. Herg'iswyl (Ascent of Pilate) — 

\ hr. Stansstad — > See page 85. 

^ hr. Rotzlocli— ) 

\ hr. Alpnach-Gestad — landing-place. 

Hotel du Cheval Blanc, in ^-iew of Pilate, supplies good 
horses, voitures, guides ; has table-d'hote for the steamers ; and the 
host is anxious to satisfy Tourists. 

The Ascent of Pilate, p. 85, can be made from here also. Horse-path, 3 hrs. 
Horse and man, up and down, 12 fr. Guide, 6 fr. 

Here descended the celebrated ' Shde,' 8 mis. long, for running- 
down the hewn trees from Pilate, for the dockyards of Napoleon I. 
Six minutes sufficed for the thundering descent. It has since been 
broken up, and the Church is constructed from the timber. — Here 
voitures are in waiting. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Samen — see below : here both routes join. 



PASS OF THE BRUNIG — LAKE OF SARNEN. 



103 



Second route. 

Lucerne to Stansstad, steam, f hr., 1 fr. 50 c. 

Stansstad to Lungern — dil., 4 fr. 35 c. — voiture, 1 horse, 15 fr. 
2 horses, 25 fr. 

Stansstad — see before. Voitures attend the steamers. 

(Char-rd. r., along the lake, 3 mis., through the Rotzloch, p. 85, 
to the high-rd. at Allweg.) 

2 mis. (1 St.) Stans — See * Joch Pass,' following. 

l~ ml. (I St.) Allweg hamlet, and Winkelried's chapel : oppo- 
site The Hotzloch-gorge, p. 85. It can be walked into and back 
in 20 min., and is worth it. (Char-rd. through it to Stans- 
stad, see above.) 

Tedious road on, by the base of the Stanzerhorn, 6000 ft., to 

6 mis. (2 St.) Kerns, 2000 ft. A pretty foot-way hence, saving 
I ml., to Sachseln direct, should only be taken upward, in revers- 
ing this route ; the high-rd., being finer down to 

2~ mis. (f St.) Sarnen, 1700 ft. See next paragraph. 

Junction of both routes, 

Sarnen, 1700 ft.— 

Hotel de l' Aigle d' Or, much improved and enlarged, anxious 
to please. Good horses and voitures. 

Hotel Sarnerhof, new, unpretending, but clean, quiet, and 
satisfactory. Good horses and voitures. 

A lovely lake, 4~ mis. long, girt by mountains. Boat, 2 fr. 

The Melchthal opens out, L, where the hoary father of Arnold 
(one of the 'three' of Griitli, p. 91) was bereft of his sight by the 
Austrian Bailiff Landenberg, whose castle, razed by the excited 
Swiss, Jan. 1, 1308, occupied the table-land above the town, r. 

1| ml. (I St.) Sachseln village. 

Approaching- Giswyl — the Church, r., with an apparent dead-lock of Mountains be- 
hind, forms an admirable picture. 

3f mis. (1 J St.) Giswyl— foot of the Kaiserstuhl. Ascent, 600 ft- 
1 hr. Lake of Lungern, 2 mis. long, the snow-white Oberland 
Giants peering down into its loveliness, over the only less lofty 
barriers raised between. The bank of the Kaiserstuhl was bored 
through in 1836, and half the water drawn off into Sarnen lake, 
and thence to Lucerne, The fear of an overflow beneath, and the 
wish to gain land above, caused the attempt, at a cost of 100,000 fr. 
(£4000) and incredible labour. Small cracks, but no damage, fol- 
lowed. The debouchure is visible. 

2\ mis. (f St.) Lungern, 2300 ft— Inn. 

Foot of the Briinig. Romantic. Carriage-rd. on, in construction. 

To Alpnach and to Stansstad, above, and to Beckenried, p. 90, dils. daily ; in 
connection with afternoon steamers to Lucerne. 

Over the Pass, a good horse-path, an easy walk to either Mey" 
ringen or Brienz. Guide needless. 



104 



LUyOERN — :MEYRINGEX — ^BRIEXZ. 



f hr. Path debouches on the 
high-rd., at a bridge, which must 
not be crossed. 

li hr. r. Brienz, 1900 ft.— 
p. 110. 



Horse 9 fr., man 1 fr. Chaises-a-porteurs can generally be got 
for the same. 

A short cut, 1., through a gate, 5 min. beyond the village, as- 
cends steeply in f hr. to a Chapel, whence the retrospect of the 
Lakes and Pilate is admirable ; and rejoins the horse -path at an- 
other gate in less than the time occupied by the latter (viz. 1 hr.). 

The Briinig runs and rises most charmingly between well- 
wooded heights and narrow meadows. 

1| hr. Top of the Pass, 3600 ft. — Auherge, 10 min. lower down. 
Magnificent view of the w^hite Bernese Alps close opposite, wed- 
ded by silver waterfalls to the green valley and wandering stream 
of the Aar below. The narrow Grimsel gorge 1., the Lake of 
Brienz r. 

From the Auherge, two paths — both commanding nearly the 
same consummate views — 

The grand middle mountain, left, is the Plattenstock (Mahrenhorn, 9500 ft.) 
Left. _ Eight. 

1 hr. Path debouches on the 
high-rd. — Thence, left, 

25 min. Meyringen, 2000 ft. 

Or, equi- distant at opposite 
side of the stream, right, 

— Reichenbach, p. 106. 

From Meyringen or Reichenbach, and from Brienz, over the ' 
Briinig — Horses and Porte-chaises, same tarif as at Lungern. 

2. Joch. Pass. 

Fine : wild, glaciered, arid : mountain views. Map, p. 89. 
Lucerne to Stansstad, f hr., steam. — Thence, car.-rd. to Engel- 
berg, 4^ hrs.' drive, 5 hrs.' walk by short cut r. from Stans. Voi- 
ture, I horse, 12 fr.; 2 horses, 20 fr. — Thence, horse-path over the 
Joch to Imhof, 10 hrs. Guide essential, 10 fr. Horse, 30 fr. — 
Imhof to Meyringen, car.-rd.. If hr. 

Stansstad — see above. 

2 mis. (I St.) Stans, 1400 ft. — Hotel Couronne, good. 
Birth-place of Winkelried, p. 81. 

Cross-Roads — 1. to Beckenried, p. 90 ; r. to Lungern, see above. 
— Straight on, approach grand and beautiful, to 

15 mis. (5 St.) Engelberg-, 'Angels'' Mount' — auherge, good. 

At the base of the Titlis. Angels are said to have indicated the 
site of the Abbey, 1121. Road ends. — 

By the Surenen Pass, \., to Altdorf, p. 93, 8 hrs. ; bad path, but grand. 
Guide requisite. 

r. Joch Pass. — Across the stream, r. Then, up, 1., path ill-de- 
fined. Straight towards the Tiths, 10,600 ft. 
5 hrs. Top of the Pass, 7000 ft. 



THE BERNESE OBERLAND. 



105 



1 hr. down. Engstlen-Alp, 6000 ft. — solitary auherge, good. 
4 hrs. Imhof, on the Grimsel and Meyringen rd., p. 10/. 



XXXVI. THE BERNESE OBERLAND. 

How to see the chief places, and from the best points of 

view. 

1st day. Lucerne to Meyringen (or Reichenbach). 
2nd day. Meyringen (or Reichenbach) to Grimsel Hospice. 
3rd day. Grimsel Hospice to top of Maienwand, for view of the 
Rhone Glacier ; and back to Meyringen (or Reichenbach). 

Note, If time be short, the Grimsel Hospice and Rhone Gla- 
cier had better be omitted ; and if the Gt. St. Bernard be 
visited, it is only another edition of the Grimsel Hospice and 
scenery — and if Chamouny or Zermatt, they have equal fac- 
similes of the Rhone Glacier, Then the 2nd day would be to 
Handeck only, and hack, and the 3rd day would be 
4th day. Meyringen (or Reichenbach) by Reichenbach Falls to 
Rosenlaui Glacier and back. Same evening, Reichenbach to 
Brienz (and on to the excellent Hotel at Giessbach, if wished). 
Note, Beyond the Glacier, the way to Grindelwald is tiresome 
and dull. And the road from Reichenbach to Brienz, ex- 
, tremely beautiful, would be quite sacrificed to it. 

5th day. Brienz to Giessbach Falls, Interlaken, and Lauter- 
brunnen. 

6th day. Lauterbrunnen to Miirren, the Upper Valley, and 
back. The Schilthorn would ordinarily require an additional day. 
' These constitute undoubtedly the finest excursion in the ivhole Oher- 
land, with the charm of being comparatively little known, but be- 
coming every season more so. 

7th day. Over Wengern Alp to Grindelwald. Better still, up 
Wengern Alp and back again to Lauterbrunnen, and same even- 
ing to Grindelwald by carriage-rd. 

8th day. Grindelwald to Interlaken, Thun, and either Berne 
or Frutigen. — Voild tout ! 

The above is the best order : if it be reversed, from Thun, the 
next best order will be — Thun, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grin- 
delwald, Interlaken again, Brienz, Reichenbach, Grimsel and back, 
Rosenlaui and back, Briinig, Lucerne. 

General Oberland Tarif. 

Horse, 1 1 fr. a day ; man included. 

Porte-chaise, 6 fr. per man (| fr. each, trinkgeld) : three re- 
quisite. . 



106 



PASS OF THE GRIMSEL. 



XXXVII. MEYRINGEN— HANDECK— GEIMSEL. 

Scenery — Bold and rich to the Handeck, 6 hrs,' walk up (4f 
hrs. down) : thence bold and bare to the Grimsel, 2 hrs. more up 
(H hr. down). 

Route up — Meyringen to Imhof, carriage-rd., If hr, : thence 
horse-track. Guide needless. 

Tarif — To the Handeck and back, horse 15 fr., man 1 fr. ; 
porte-chaise, 3 men, 6 fr. each. — To the Grimsel, 10 fr. ; if dis- 
missed, 10 more back in addition. 

Meyringen, 2000 ft.— Pop. 2500 Prot. 

Hotel de la Coueonne, newly re-arranged, with very beau- 
tiful views, back and front, good and recommendable. 

Hotel du Sauvage, very good, and recommendable. Charm- 
ing views from salle-a-manger. 

Wood sculptures. — H. Grossmann, in * Hotel de la Couronne,' 
has an admirable collection, his own winter's work, at reasonable 
prices. 

Carriage-rd., in 5 minutes, to the Alpbach Fall, left; immediately opposite 
which. Bridge across the Aar, r., whence road, forking — left to the Kirschen, 
Grimsel, etc.,— right, in 5 min., to Reichenbach. 

Reichenbach, 2000 ft. 

Hotel Reichenbach, beautifully situated, quiet, and excellent. 
Recommendable and reasonable ' Fension! 
Hotel des Alpes, very good. 

Both, in the Unter-Hasli Thai, * valley of Lower Hash.' Tho- 
roughly Alpine. Watered by the Aar, which is fed behind Mey- 
ringen on the 1. by the Alpbach Fall, and behind Reichenbach on 
the r. by the far superior Reichenbach Fall. Below, it opens to 
the Lake of Brienz ; and above, is barred by the Kirschen. 

Routes from Mep'ingen. 

To Lucerne, by the Brunig, p. 102. To the St. Gotthard Pass, by the Sus- 

by the Joch, see Imhof, p. 107. ten, see Imhof, p. 107. 

To Rosenlaui and Grindelwald,nextsect. To Brienz, Interlaken, 4'C.,l>. 109. 

To the Grim,sel and its sequents, as follows : 
1 hr. (or stund.) The Kirschen, so called from the ^ cherry- 
trees ' which clothe it, 700 ft. above the valley — a calcareous 
mound through which the Aar has cleft a channel 

' between 

Heights which appear as lovers who have parted 
In hate, whose mining depths so intervene 
That they can meet no more.' 

It must be ascended on either side, and descended on the other. 
But, in coming from the Grimsel, Pedestrians should take a path- 
way on top to the r., conducting to the precipitous bank over- 
hanging the Aar, and affording a most picturesque view of the 
Lower Valley and Meyringen, to which it leads in less time also. 



FALLS OF THE AAE — GRIMSEL. 



107 



i hr. Imliof — Inn, Prettily situated in the Upper-Hasli Thai. 

To the St. Gotthard Pass, by the Susten, 11 hrs., p. 94. 

To Engelberg, for Lucerne, by the Joch Pass, 10 hrs., p. 104. 

2J hrs. Guttanen — Inn, * A barren and dry land.' The path 
ao-ain seeks the river-side, the rocks are water-worn, the pines close 
round. In the midst of these, on a steep pull, 8 min. short of the 
Handeck, a scarcely noticeable path leads 
down 1. to the front of the Fall of the Aar, 
w^hich is the better first view — from where 
Wolff the painter was lowered into the 
spray-cloud by cords, and made his marvel- 
lous drawing of it. There is no danger. 

The ^rlenbach stream crosses the 
horse-track between this and 

2 hrs. The Handeck — a single wooden 
hovel; humble beds, refreshments, and 
J fr. in each patron's bill ' for the Water- 
fall ! ' ('tis a Hon, Gentle Tourist, and requires to be fed as well 
as thou.) 

Immediately opposite, 1., a path skirts the copse, and pene- 
trates it in 5 min., to the bridge over the fall of the Aar — whence 
the sight is something thoroughly satisfactory: equalled by no 
other Swiss Fall — and surpassed by no European one but Terni. 
It is only 200 ft,, but the spray, augmented by the ^rlenbach 
plunging from the side into the one abyss, conceals the depth. 

So far, and back to Meyringen, forms a fair day's work. 

Further on, the vegetation diminishes, and all resolves itself into 
naked rock and ' relentless torrent.' 

i hr. The £dse Seite, ' bad corner,' and Eollenplatte, * infernal 
ledge,' — two granitic layers, smoothed by the sliding down of ex- 
tinct glaciers, (Agassiz.) 

1 hr. Ratrichsboden hollow. In 1799, the French, long un- 
able to expel the Austrians, were guided by Fahner, a Guttanen 
peasant, to a commanding position ; and gave him this basin for 
reward — of which the Bernese Government deprived him as soon 
as possible. 

I hr. G-rimsel Hospice, 6000 ft. — a solitary refuge, replacing 
two overwhelmed by avalanches, and a third burnt wilfully by the 
keeper, for which he is now undergoing 20 years' imprisonment. 
50 beds : prices of everything as at any auberge : ' cold comfort ' 
may best characterise the whole. The back-ground is formed by 
a black sheet of water and a white sheet of snow — the latter 
ascending 1000 ft. higher, to the Top of the Pass. The Austrians 
and French contested this in 1799, 




lOS 



RHONE VALLEY — STRAHLECK PASS. 



Routes from the Grimsel Hospice. 

1. To \^E\v THE Rhone Glacier, from the Top of the Pass 
1 hr. up. Described fully, p. 95. 

Round the water. Up the snow, 1., by the poles. Round ^ Lake 
of the Dead ' on top, I. The Glacier then comes into view, 1. 

2. To the St. Gotthard Pass (Hospenthal) by the Furca, 
10 hrs. In continuation. Described fuUy, p. 95. 



3. To THE SiMPLON (Brieg), 12 hrs. 

Same as last to ^ Lake of the Dead then r., down the valley of 

the Rhone. Horse-path to Viesch ; thence, char-rd. 

4 hrs. Ohergesteln, 4300 ft.— Pop. 250.— 7wn. 

To Airolo, on the St. Gotthard, p. 96, by the Niifenen Pass, 30 mis., 10 hrs. 
Tame. 

To Domo d' Ossola, p. 166, by the Val Formazza, 15 hrs. Grand. 

U hr. Milnster, 3900 ft.— Pop. 400.— Inn. 
2|- hrs. Viesch, 2800 ft.—Lm. 

Ascent of the jEggischhorn, 7700 ft, 5 hrs. Descent, 3 hrs.— The Aletsch, the 
largest Swiss glacier, is underneath. 

Horse-path, plain : over the bridge : up r. near houses : through a wood ; to 
a small auberge. So far, easy, 2\ hrs. Horse and man, 8i fr. 

Hence, guide essential, severe climb, 1^ hr. more, to the top. Grand view. 

The Yiescherhorner above, 12,600 ft. (Ascent of the Jungfrau, 
p. 116.). 

Growingly grand scenery onward. Voit. to Brieg, 1 hor., 8 — 10 fr. 
4 hrs. Brieg, on the Simplon, p. 165. 



4. To THE Aar Glaciers. Horse-path r., not crossing the water. 
To the Unter-Aar Glacier, 2 hrs. 

To the Ober-Aar Glacier, 3 hrs. further. 

These have most indicated the forward motion of ice — their ad- 
vance having been ascertained by Hugi, Agassiz, and DoUfuss- 
Ausset, to be 240 ft. per annum, about 8 inches per day. — Grand, 
gloomy scenery. 

5. Strahxeck Pass, to Grindelwald. Majestic, but laborious 
— even dangerous. Best made from this side. Two Guides indis- 
pensable, 30 fr. each, and a trinkgeld. 

5 hrs. Ober-Aar Glacier, as above. 

6 hrs., along the bases of the Finsteraarhorn and Schreckhorn, 
to the Top of the Strahleck, 9900 ft. Superb view of icy peaks, 
and sheer down by Zasenberg chalet to 

5 hrs. Grindelwald, 3300 ft.— Described fully, page 117- 



XXXVni. MEYRINGEN—ROSENLAUI— GRINDEL- 
WALD. 

Time and 5cenerj/— Meyringen to Rosenlaui, grand and varied, up, 3 hrs. 
(back, 2 hrs.) Rosenlaui to Gt. Scheideck, monotonous, up, 2.\ hrs. (back, 1^ 
iir.) Gt. Scheideck to Grindelwald, picturesque, down, 2 hrs. (back, 3 hrs.) 



BEICHENBACH FALLS — ROSENLAUI. 



109 



Advice — The ivhole route from the Grindelwald side sacrifices 
the entire best effect of the whole. 

The whole route from the Meyringen side sacrifices the approach 
to Grindelwald from Interlaken. 

Both are sacrifices of the highest order. Therefore, it is better 
to return from Rosenlaui to Meyringen, an easy day ; and on to 
Brienz. (Then, Giessbach, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindel- 
wald.) 

Tarif — To Rosenlaui and back, horse 10 fr., man 1 fr. ; porte- 
chaise, 3 men, 6 fr. each. To Grindelwald, the same ; if dismissed, 
half-fare back in addition. 
Route — Good horse-path (but steep). Guide needless. 
Meyringen. Bridge across to 
Reichenbach, 2000 ft,— p. 106. 

Immediately behind Hotel Reichenbach, the path ascends stiffly 
I — ' a ruined stair, 2000 ft. long ' — on the 1. of the Reichenbach 
stream, which is not to be crossed at all. 

1^ hr. (or stund.) Reiehenbacli Upper Fall, reached, through 
a small gate and footpath r. under the cliff, in 10 min. This Fall 
is very noble — the Lower is very picturesque, p. 110. Those who 
enter the ' cabin' opposite are expected to contribute to ' the road- 
way ' (I fr.). 

I Through the narrowing mountain chink, the road still mounts by 
I the river's side, the Engel-, Well-, and Wetter-horner, 11,000 ft., 
\ towering in advance — an inimitable scene. 

If hr. Rosenlaui, 4800 ft. — a single auherge. Make a bargain. 
Opposite, amongst the pines, 20 min. walk to the 1. of the route, 
the Glacier — the most beautiful in Switzerland, clear white and 
translucent blue, a ' small parcel,' but, like all little beauties,' of 
' the most precious goods ' — issues from between the Wellborn r. 
and Engelhorn 1. Walk upon, and go into it, by all means. 

The rest of the route (called Gt. Scheideck) is singularly devoid 
of attraction. It is well marked : and better avoided. 
2 hrs. Chalets, Leave them on the right, 
i i hr. Ridge of the Great Scheideck, 6000 ft.— a petty 
i auherge. 

To the Faulhorn, a dull path r., up, in 4 hrs., p. 117. 

Forward and down, the view is picturesque. 
2 hrs. Grindelwald, 3300 ft.— page 116. 



XXXIX. MEYRINGEN— BRIENZ— INTERLAKEN. 

Dil. to Brienz, 9 mis. Steam to Interlaken, 1 hr. 

Voitures — Meyringen to Brienz: 1 horse, 6 fr, ; 2 horses, 12 
fr. No addition for return. 

Route — Good carriage-rd., through Lower Hash Valley: ex- 
tremely beautiful. Pedestrians had better drive than walk it. 



110 



BRIENZ — THE EOTHHORN. 



Meyringen. The u^p'per bridge should be crossed, to 
Ueichenbach, 2000 ft.— p. 106. 

\ ml. Reichenbacb. Lower Fall comes down to the rd., a 
fine picture. 
4| mis. Bridge over the Aar. 

Over the Brilnig Pans, from Brienz-side, horse-path, p. 104. 

4 mis. Brienz, 1900 ft. — straggling village. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, good, English spoken. 

The Giessbach Hotel, see below, is so incomparably one of the 
very best, that it is generally preferred for sleeping at ; boat across, 
in ^ hr. 

Head-quarters of Swiss wood-carving. Lovely situation. 
Wood-sculptures — M. Fluk's ' Fabrik' contains beautiful objects, 
and is strongly recommended either for purchase or inspection. 
Ascent of the Rothhorn, 7300 ft, 5 hrs. Horse, 10 fr. 

Lake of Brienz. 

8 mis. long ; 2| mis. broad ; from 500 to 2000 ft. deep. 

Road — for carriages, along the r. shore, contrary side to the 
Giessbach. — No passable path even, on the 1. shore. 

Steamers — several times daily, in 1 hr. ; 1st place, 2 fr. ; 2nd 
place, 1 fr. 

Row-boats — Brienz to Giessbach^ \ hr., 2 men, 2 fr. 

Brienz to Interlahen, 2~ hrs., taking Giessbach en route if 
wished, 3 fr. each rower — 2 men to 4 passengers, 3 men to 
* about' a dozen: f fr. trinkgeld to each ,rower. These tarifs 
include return also, if no great delay be made. 

~ hr. steam. 1. Giessbach. — ^landing-place. 

Hotel Giessbach, charmingly situated, and most highly re- 
ported of : thoroughly recommendable for a stay. Pension 
reasonable : cuisine very good. * Cure du petit lait.' Conve- 
nient tables-d'hote for all the steamers. 

This Hotel is so frequented that another is on the point of being 
opened. 

The steamers call, but do not wait. The Falls cannot be seen 
without landing. A new broad way leads up to them — to the 
finest point of view in 12 min. They are amongst the most 
beautiful things of the kind — their silvery descent is framed in 
the green woods. 

The Falls are brilliantly illuminated at night, from time to time ! 
of which notice is given. 

Excursions from the Giessbach can be made in all directions as from Interlaken, 
Brienz, or Meyringen.] In the one day, Lucerne can be reached easily (and even the 
Rigi) either by the Briinio' or by Thun rail. 

Ascent of the Faulhorn, 8000 ft., 6 hrs., p. 117. The most picturesque ascent or 
descent. 

Wood-sculptures — The Freres Kehrli, at the Falls, have one of 
the finest expositions in Switzerland. Elaborate ornamentation. 
And fair prices. 



GIESSBACH FALLS — ^INTERLAKEN. 



Ill 



Easy ascent. Female singers vocalise the departing tourist by 
the water's edge — their absence would be an inappreciable loss. 

f hr. steam. Interlaken — ^landing-place: 15 min. walk from 
the town. Omn. and dil. in connection with all the steamers on 
the Lakes of Brienz and Thun (to Neuhaus, 1 fr., p. 118). 

XL. INTERLAKEN. 

* A large English Boarding-house, with 
a road running through it ' — the happiest 
definition in the world. 

All the Hotels receive equally ' en pen- 
sion :' and almost every house is an hotel. 

The following Hotels are considered 
the most satisfactory, and are indicated ac- 
cordmg to position. The features peculiar 
to each are subjoined. 

THE JUNGFRAU 
(Grindelwald.and.Lauterbrunnen) 
>J< H. Ober. 

English Churcli. □ 

H. Casino. H. Ritschard. Post-office. 

Lake ) □ □ □ ( 1-^^^ 

of ) Road from Lake of Brienz to Lake of Thun { of 

Brienz. ) □ □ □ □ □ □ {Thun. 

H.Fischer. H.Alpes. H. Belvedere. H. Schweizerhof. H. Jungfrau. H. Victoria. 

Hotel Fischer, well-placed, quiet and reasonable, with Baths 
on the river. 

Hotel du Casino, very good, of estabhshed reputation elegant, 
and * fashionable.' 

Hotel du Belvedere, excellent, frequented by the highest 
class of foreigners, and English who know this. The Dow. Empress 
of Russia chose this house for her residence. 

Hotel Schweizer Hof, new, spacious, capitally situated, and 
well kept by a trust- worthy host. 

Hotel and Pension de la Jungfrau, on the Grand Promenade, 
in fine view of the Jungfrau, excellent. 

Standing a little more apart — 

Hotel and Pension Ober, in a quiet situation, very agreeable, 
of high character, great cleanliness, and especially frequented by 
EngUsh. 

Hotel and Pension Beau-site, at Unterseen, in fine view of 
the Jungfrau, thoroughly good, and eminently moderate. 
Towards the Lake of Brienz — 

Campagne Felsenegg, Pension, and Villa to let, delightfully 
situated, and well kept by an experienced Proprietor who speaks 
English. 

At Bonigen, on the Lake, | hr, from Interlaken — 

Chalet du Lac, a new Pension, with charming view, clean, 

good, and reasonable. Pure * Petit lait' Boats, good fishing, and 

bathing in the lake. 




112 



INTERLAKEN — EXCURSIONS — ^ADVICE. 



Houses of Business — 

Bankers— RitschSiTd and Biirki have English correspondences, and cash,«&c., i 

advantageously. They have also a stock of ' Filet brodt for sale. And the best i 

Cigars. \ 

Physicians and Surgeons to the Kursaal — supplying Medicines also as i 

ordinary Pharmacies {Apothecaries)— \ 

— Dr. F. Volz, immediately behind Hotel Victoria. j 

— D. Liithy, beside Hotel Jungfrau ; has several English preparations. i 

—Dr. J. Strasser, near Hotel Ritschard ; speaks English. ! 

Ecole des Pauvres, Chalet, beside Hotel Victoria— a magazine for the sale of j 

Swiss ' broderies,' embroidery, crochet-work, etc., the work of the Poor in winter. ' 

In every point of view, we recommend it to the notice of English ladies. i 

Carved-iL'ood, ^'finerals, Stones, Ivory and Stag's horn objects — Grossmann, 
between Hotels Belvedere and Schweizerhof. A good collection and large choice, 

with prices marked and moderate. | 

(7i!.gar5— Ritschard and Biirki have the best, and export and retail largely. 

Wood-sculptures^ Precious stones, Alpine Minerals^ etc. — Sesti ; op- j 

posite Hotel Interlaken. An admirable establishment. Fixt price. 

Guides not fee'd. A ' specialite ' for exquisite Faintings on wood. 
Boots a?id Shoes, for both sexes — Zwahlen, close to Schweizer 

Hof. Reliable workmanship. — Capital mountain-shoes. \ 
Local Guide — ' Interlaken et ses Environs,' 3|- fr., by M. Ober, i 

Proprietor of the Hotel and Pension Ober, is an excellent little |' 

work by a man of education and character. 

Eeading-r 007ns, ' Cabinets de lecture ' — close to Hotel Belvedere : j 
(^) Urfer's. 7 English, French, and German papers, and books, | 
(2) Yanaz'. ) Small entrance-fee. I 
English Church-service, and R. C. Service, throughout the season. 
Sights — there is none but the natural position — half an hour's 

v/alk from one end to the other gives the whole impression : from 

the promenade opposite the Jungfrau, to the bridge connecting 

the subm'b Unterseen where the Post-Office is. 

Short Excursions. I 

I 

1. To the Giesshach, on the Lake of Brienz, preceding sect. 

2. To the HohhUhl, f hr. Over the bridge, Zollbriicke, near 
the Brienz steamers' landing-place; and up the hill, 1, This 
yields the best view of Iliterlaken — its narrow valley-position 
between the Lakes of Brienz 1. and Thun r., with the Aar con- 
necting both — the enceinte of hills — and magnificent mass of the 
Jangfrau beyond, which confers deservedly its great attraction. 

The Harder, 4400 ft., in continuation, \\ hr., a more extensive 
point of Adew, is dangerous without a guide. i 

3. To the ruins of Vnspitnnen, 2^ mis. : in front of Interlaken : | 
said to have given to Lord Byron the idea of a * local habitation ' 
for Manfred. 

4. To the Ahendherg, Institution for Cretins, 3000 ft., 8 mis., 
2^ hrs.' walk. Horse, there and back, 9 fr. — Same route as 
last : then onward, leaving Unspunnen on the r. 

5. To the Schei/iige Platte, 6000 ft., 3 hrs. Magnificent Alpine 
panorama. 



LATJTERBRUNNEN. 



113 



Longer Excursions. 

Lauterhrunnen^ Milrren, Schilthorn, Wengern Alp, Grindelwald. 
See the three following sections. 
Stupendous Scenery. Everything else may wisely be sacrificed 
to it. The finest part is that connected immediately with Lauter- 
brunnen. 

The best approach to Lauterbrunnen is from Tnterlaken; to 
Grindelwald, either from Lauterbrunnen or Interlaken, hy the 
carriage-road. The best order is that above. 

To cross the Wengern Alp, sleep the previous night at Lauter- 
brunnen, rather than at Interlaken or Grindelwald; because — 1st, 
the 9 mis. from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen are a bad preface 
to a day's work akeady ample ; 2ndly, the ascent from Lauter- 
brunnen is shaded in the early morning, while that from Grindel- 
wald is exposed soon to the burning sun. 

Tarifs. 

Local Voitures : per hr., per horse, 3 fr. ; 2 hrs., 4^ fr. j 3 hrs., 
5i fr. ; 4 hrs., 6 fr. 

Per day, 1 horse and man, 11 fr. ; 2 ditto, 20 fr. 

To Lauterbrunnen and back, stopping 2 hrs. — 1 horse, 8 fr. ; 
2 horses, 15 fr. 

To Grindelwald and back, same day— 1 horse, 10 fr. ,• 2 horses, 
20 fr. 

To Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, 1 horse, 15 fr. ; 2 hor., 25 fr. 
Bitto, and back, two days — 1 horse, 20 fr. ; 2 ditto, 40 fr. 

Routes from Interlaken. 

To Brienz Meyringen.^.lOd. Briinig, p. 102, 109; — by Thun arid 
To Thun, p. 118 (for Berne and other Berne, p. 118, 101, 102. 
places, set p. 127.) To Lauterbrunnen, next section. ^ 

To Lucerne — by Brienz and the ( To Grindelwald, p. 115. 



XLI. INTERLAKEN— LAUTERBRUNNEN. 

Carriage-rd., 9 mis., IJ hr. drive up, I J down. Voitures, above. 
Interlaken, 1800 ft. — preceding section. 

The Schloss Unspunnen, and the Abendberg, p. 112, both 
appear on the r. The narrow gorge of the Lauterbrunnen Thai 
is entered — dark with pine-mantled precipices, swept by and re- 
sounding to the wildest of all mountain-torrents. 

The Bose stein, ' evil rock,' on the r., used to mark where an ancient Lord of 
the valley assassinated his brother. 

The grand central mountain above the road is the Gemsberg. At its base, 
stands 

5J mis. Zweilutschinen, 2200 ft. — a hamlet and bridge where 
the 'two Liitschine' unite, the White r. from the Schmadiibach 



114 



LAITERBRUNXEX . 



Fall in the Upper Valley, and the Black 1. from the Grindelwald 
glaciers : the road di\ddes accordingly — 1. to Grindelwald, p. 116 ; 
r. to Lauterbruniien, as follows. 

Soon the snow-pointed Breithora comes into view, overhanging the route, 
then, the Silberhoru; then, the whole great mass of the Jungfrau herself; 
13,000 ft. high. 

Horses and guides offering on the road should be distrusted. 
3t mis. Lauterbrunnen ^-illage, 2500 ft. 

Hotel C.ipricorn, capacious and recommendable. A capital 
head-quaiters. 

It is beyond this that the valley derives its name, from the 
frequent rivulets that course down its precipitous sides — Lauter- 
hru}i7ien, 'streams only.' The farther one proceeds, the larger 
the recompense. Everything Swiss is concentrated here — giant 
mountains, massive glaciers, rushing cataracts, picturesque vil- 
lages, green oases, and the ever-changeful combinations of 
Alpine Nature in her most lavish mood. 

EXCrESIOXS BEYOXD, 

Distances from the ' Capricorn,' where horses and guides may be had. 
Horse, 10 fr. per day. 

1. Along the Valley. — Good rd. to Trachsellauinen. So far, 
guide needless. 

15 min. Staubhacli (' Dust-Fall,' because the water is frittered 
into fine spray, descending 900 ft. in a long thin mist, waving 
with the gentlest wind) — the ' most delicate of lions.' Byron's com- 
parison is worthy of it, but calculated to disappoint expectation — 

' like the pale courser's tail. 
The giant steed to be bestrode by Death, 
As told in the Apocalypse.' 

H hr. Stachelberg, 3000 ft. : beyond, a road r. descends from 
Miirren. see next Excursion ; and also leads into the extraordinary 
Sefinenthal, r. 

The Boththal vsWey of the Jungfrau, 1., is believed to have been a green pasture 
converted into Glacier in a single day for the crimes of an impious owner; and 
to be now haunted by equally condemned Souls. 

1 hr. Trachsellauinen, 4000 ft. : where horses must be left, for 
the return. Guide onward necessary, the path not well marked. 

\\ hr. Fall of the Schmadribach, a rush out clean from a glacier, 
then down 'ynXh. a roar of 200 ft., then a roll of ponderotis foam 
rebounding. Wonderful as viewed from below, the scene as- 
sumes a still more wondrous grouping from above, viz : — 

\\ hr. The Steinberg, 5500 ft. — centre of an amphitheatre formed 
by the Jungfrau, 13,000 ft., Mittag-, 10,000, Gross-, 11,000, Breit-, 
12,000, Tschingel-, 9000, and Gspalten-homer, 10,000 ft., every 
summit glacier-crowned, and the entire dimensions of the Schma- 
dribach occupying the foreground. 

Forward — to Kandersteg, 12 hrs.' hard walk, over the Tschingel 
Glacier: guide, 25 fr. (two necessary) : see Excursion 2, as better. 



MUKREN — SCHILTHOEN. 



115 



2. Tip to Murren. — Saddle-path : commencing r., 120 paces 
beyond ^ the Capricorn.' Guide needless, 6 fr. 

1| hr. of brisk ascent to the Bridge over the Staubbach; after 
which it becomes easier, and enters a forest. 

l~ hr. Ojjening of the Forest — an overpowering picture — the 
marshalling of the Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Mittag-, Gross-, 
Breit-, Tschingel-, Gspalten-horner — the Fall of the Schmadribach, 
i &c. — than which the world has nothing m.ore complete. 
, 20 min. Murren, 5500 ft. : village and auherge; vAih. accom- 
modation. 

Forward — to Kandersteg: see Cross Routes, below. 

The Descent may be varied by proceeding forward and down- 
ward. If hr., to Stachelberg (see above) ; whence 1., IJ hr., to 
I Lanterbrunnen. 

The Ascent can be continued, as follows : — 
I 3. Ascent of th.e Scliilth.orn5 3 hrs. above Miirren, whence 
I foot-path only. Guide necessary ; from Lanterbrunnen, 10 fr. 

The finest view of the whole Oberland. 

Summit, 9000 ft. From the 1. the mountain-tops circle thus — 
Brienzergrat, Rigi, Uri-Rothstock, Glarnisch, Titlis, the serried 
range of the whole Bernese Oberland from the "Wetter- to the 
Dolden-horn, then the Diablerets, Oldenhorn, ]3ent d'Oche, 
I Charmey, Jaun, Stockhorn, Niesen, Juras, — an indescribable series 
of parallel behind parallel. 

A house must be built here, and horse-path made. 

Cross Routes. 

L To the Gemmi Pass (Kandersteg). Two ways, — 1. Char-rd. 
to Stachelberg, as Excurs. 1 ; then, foot-path r. into the Sefinen- 
thal. — 2. Horse-path to Miirren, as Excursion 2 ; then, foot-path 
into the Sefinenthal. 

The Sefinenthal is trackless, but horse-path in construction. 
Grand, fantastic, mountain and glacier-forms. Over the Little 
Furka, 5| hrs. ; down to the Kienthal chalets (one may sleep), 2 
hrs. : over the Diindengrat, 3j hrs ; down into the charming 
I (Eschinen's lake-watered valley, 2 hrs. Thence, horse-path, 3 
' mis., to Kandersteg, p. 120. 

Total time from Lanterbrunnen, 14 hrs. Guide essential : 20 fr, 
2. To GrindeLwald. Two ways, as follows. 



XLII. LAITTERBIlUNIfEN— GRINBELWALD. 
1. Over the Wengern Alp. 
This, with the exception of the one view from the top, is far 
I inferior to the approach by the carriage-rd., as subjoined. 
; Advice — Ascend from Lanterbrunnen to tlic Wengern Alp 
I only : descend to Lauterbrunnen again : then, by the road to 

i M 

I 



116 



THE VrENGEKX ALF. 



GrindehvalcL Thus, all that is scenic is gained. — See p. 105; 113. 

Tarifs — Horse and man : From Interlaken. 22 fr. See page 113. 

From Lauterbrunnen, 15 fr. (no addition for return next day, if 
wished). From Lauterbrunnen to the Yv'engern Top only, and 
back again, as recommended, 1 1 fr. 

Route — Well- traversed horse-path. Guide needless. 
Lauterbrunnen, 2500 ft. — preceding section. 
Past the Church. Across the bridge 1. Along the river L for 3 
min. Up second path r. 

hr., the Wen gem hamlet. 
^ hr. fui'ther, path to the r. 

i hr., a v;ood — through it, rising 1., for ~ hi. Thencefoi-ward, 1. 

1 i hr. [Total, 4 hrs. up. 2|- down.] Wengern Alp, 5500 ft. Se- 
parated by a narrow vale from the Jungfrau, 'Virgin' mount 
(alas ! no longer so — for her snows have been trodden several 
times since the first ascension of Aug. 3, 1811, by a pair of S\dss : 
the point of ascent is Yiesch, p. 108) : 13,000 ft. The avalanches 
are superbly seen from here, and fall frequently in the hotter part 
of the day. — Auherge on top. 

f hr. up. (f hr.^down.) Top of tlie Little Scheideck, 600D 
ft. — Auherye. Good view back on the Jungfrau : the only good 
one between this and 

3| hrs. down. (5 hrs. up.) Qrindelwald, 3300 fc. — See below. 

Eeversins: the above route: frovi Grindelvrald — 
Follo-^v the rd. towards Interlaken for about 1 br. to a side-rd., left : there, tiira 
off: cross a bridge ; thence horse-path (or foot-path, shorter) well marked, to the 
Liitle Scheideck. 

2. By tlie carriage-road. 

This approach is far grander, either from Interlaken or Lauter- 
brunnen, than any other approach whatever. 

1. From Interlalien^ 15 mis., 3^ hrs.' 
drive. Page 113, up to Zvveiliitschinen. 

2. From Lauterhrunnen^ 13 mis., 3 hrs.' 
drive. Page 113, diovm to 

Zweiliitschmen, 2200 ft. — where both 
routes join, the bridge is crossed, and all 
thence is hard up-hill — but highlv roman- 
tic. 

Soon after, the Wetterhom is seen filling 
up the distance. 

NcaringGrindelwald,theLovyer Glacier breaks finclv on the -^-iew. 
9J mis. Grindelwald, 3300 ft. 

Hotel de l'Aigle Noir, thoroughly Alpine-looking, very re- 
commendable. Attentive landlord. Baths. Handsome Fe'imon, 

Hotel de l'Ours, opposite the Lower Glacier, fine mountain- 
view, very good, Feimon. 




I ' GUINDELWALD — THE FAULHOKN. 117 

I 

j Woods culpttcres — Jean Kehrli, in Hotel de I'Aigle Noirj very 
; good workmanship, and very fair and moderate prices. 

Local Guide — Christen Blauer; specially recommended. 
' Three snow-peaked heights bound the crater-hke vale, the 
Eiger, 12,300 ft. r., Wetterhorn, 11,500 ft. L, and Mettenberg 
I (base of the Sclireckhorn, i2,5(X) ft.) in the middle, throwing 
i out a glacier at each side, the sources of the Black Liitschine. The 
j village dots the valley up and down. The hills tinkle from 6000 
' cattle. The people are pasturers. Against the Church is the single 
I monument of their ' God's-acre ' — erected to the stranger, a Pastor 
of the Canton de Vaud, who perished in a crevasse in 1821 : they 
mark more simply their own dead. Their requiem is the rush of 
j v/aters, and the bells of herds, and the crash of avalanche ; and 
j their record is in the living hearts who loved them, and written only 
\ in the Book above, which Angels keep. 

j The MartiJisloch is a hole in the Eiger, r., said to hare been made by St Mar- 
i tin's spear t© let out the accumulating' glacier-,— through it, the Sun appears, on 
I Jan. 17, 18, and Nov. 25, 28, to spectators standing near the Church. 

The Glaciers were such from the 11th to the 15th cent, that the People of the 
Valais used to carry their children across them toGrindelvvald to be baptised. 

Excursions — i. To the Loiver Glacier, Hhe little one,' though 
thrice the size of the other (which may be accepted as evidence of 
its growth), f hr.'s walk, highly interesting. Path r., behind the 
Church. Guide, 2 fr., needless : horse, 3 fr. 

2. To the Elsmeer, ^ mer de glace,' a grand sea of upfrozen icicles, 
j 2k hrs.' farther ascent. Guide more necessary, 4 fr. ; horse, 8 fr. 

3. To Zdsenherg Chalet — from v/hence nothing whatever of ver- 
dure is visible, nothing but the cold encircling summits which 
vie vvith the Jardin of Chamouny. i J hr. across the Eismeer. No 
danger, but guide quite necessary. 3 hrs. to return to Grindelwald. 

4. Strahleck Pass, to the Grimsel. Continuation upward of the 
preceding Excursions. 3Iore laborious and less striking from this 
side. Described fully, p. 108, 

5. Ascent of the Faulhorn, 8000 ft. 5 hrs. up. Severe, and un- 
interesting. Guide, 6 fr., needless. Horse, up and down same 

I day, 15 fr. Porte-chaise, 4 men, 6 fr, each. 

j Two derivations of the title Faul: i, ' sluggish,' because it much 
I . inclines its mounters to he so ; 2, ' decomposed,' because its geoio- 
I gical formation is so — being a black friable limestone. 

Path 1., opposite the hotel : tending to the r. for about 1 hr. 
' Then 1. into a wood. Through and out of it, bearing r. 

3k hrs.. Bach- Alp chalet and lake. The rest of the ascent is easier. 

IJ hr., auberge on top. — Close view of the Oberland mountains, 
massive, but deficient in grace. 

; Anew Hotel has been erected here, with" a new Proprietor, who is recom- 
I mended as honest and anxious to please. 30 good spring beds, and salle-a-nianger 
I for 40 persons. Chaise-^i-porteurs and satisfactory guides are now also kept here, 

t The Descent can be Varied — I. To the Gt, Scheidech (for Mey- 
j M 2 

I 



118 



INTERLAKEN — THUX. 



ringen), p. 109, in 3 hrs., turning 1. at the Bach-Alp lake: unin- 
teresting. — 2. To the GiesshacU on Lake of Brienz, p. 110, 4 hrs. : 
preferable, but difficult — guide indispensable, 6 fr. 

Cross Routes — 1. To 3Ieyringen, by the Gt. Scheideck and 
Rosenlaui, p. 109. 

2. Over the JVengern Alp, to Lauterbrunnen, see above. 



XLIII. INTEELAKEH— THUH. 

\st route. By the post-rd, along the lake, 18 mis. 
2/id route. By the lake. — Omnib., 1 fr. ; voiture, 1 horse, 2 fr, ; 
2 horses, 3 fr. ; between Interlaken and Neuhaus. 
Interlaken, page 111. 

2 mis. Heuhaus — station of the steamers on 
Lake of Thim. 

Steamers, from Neuhaus to Thun, and vice versa, several times a-day. 
Fares. — 1st place, 2 fr. 2nd place, 1 fr. 

Eo^'-boats.— 1 lir. 3 fr., 2 hre. 5 fr., 3 hrs. 7 fr. Half day,'8 fr. Whole day, 10 fr. 

Length, 11 J mis. Breadth, 3 mis. Above the sea, 1750 ft. 
Bordered by mountains, on both sides. Very beautiful. 

The noticeable points are (the steamers stop at none) — 

I hr. steam, r. Beatenliohle, or ' Cave of St. Beatus/ said to have 
been the first Christian missionary here. It contains several cells. 

10 min. further, r. The Hase, 'nose' — a little promontory. 

J hr. opposite, 1. Spietz — an old family chateau of the Erlachs, 
whose ancestor led the Bernese to victory against the Burgundians 
at Laupen, in 1339. Behind, the Niesen 7500 ft. 1., aiid Stock- 
horn 7000 ft. r., form the background. 

|- hr. r. Entrance on the river Aar'; and with singular sudden 
picturesqueness Thun bursts upon the view. 

On the promontory to the 1., the striking modern Chateau de 
la Schadau of M. de Rougemont. 

Thun— Pop. 3500 Prot. 

Hotel Bellewe, good, charmingly ~ _ 

situated. Families received in Tension at 
moderate prices. The Steamers to and 
from Interlaken depart and arrive oppo- 
site the lawn of the Hotel. 

English Churchinthe Bellevue grounds. 

Hotel Baumgartex, well placed in its 
own grounds, fine viev/, attention and 
comfort. Pension advantageously. Char- 
ming walks. 

Hotel du Faucon, the nearest to^the Rail, has been greatly 
improved, is now veiy good and comfortable, with landlord anxious 
to please, and moderate terms. 




I 



THUN — THE NIESEN. 119 

I Pension Bellekive, admirably situated on the river, in view 
I of the Oberland, most highly reported of by the English.. 
|| Moderate prices. 

I Pension la Villette, close to the Church and Lake. 
Villas TO let— 

I Sclmihuhl, beautifully situated, quiet, suitable for large or small 
j families, with or without attendance and board. 
Houses of Business — • - 

English Medicines — C. Volter, in main street, understands our 
Pharmacopoeia, keeps Homceopathic preparations, is of established 
standing. 

' ! Waldos Bazar Suisse, close to the landing-place of Steamers for 
I Hotel Bellevue. Incomparably, the finest collection of works of 
li the highest Swiss Art. Sculptures, Antiques, Minerals, Shells, 
jj Photographic views, etc. It is indispensable to visit it. 
j Diapha7iorama of Koenig^ the celebrated Bernese Artist, 60 
I transparent Tableaus — in Wald's * Bazar Suisse;' every evening; 
j entry, I fr. 

Cigars and Tobacco — Hertig, near the Post, has the best. 

Omnibus between Steamers, Eail, and Hotels, 40 c, luggage included. JValking 
between Steamers and Eail, allow ^ hr. 

Sights — ^1. Old Chateau of the Counts of Kyburg, the former 
I lords of Thun— date 1429. 

j 2. The doid)le roiu of houses in the main street, monstrously ori- 
! ginal. 

Points of View — 1. From the Parish Church: up 200 steps. 
2. From the Chartreuse ; Bellevue grounds. 

Ascent of the Niesen. — From Thun (by the Simmenthal, p. 122) to Brothiiusi, post- 
rd., 67^- mis., dil. passing daily, 1 hr.'s drive. Brothiiusi to Wimmis— bye-rd., 2 mis. 
(or foot-path, 1 ml., thus — At 1st house beyond Brothiaisi, descend 1.; across river; 
ascend r.) 

Voiture, 1 horse, from Thun to Wimmis, 5 to 6 fr. 

Vv^immis village, 2200 ft.— Hence, plain path ; horse, 15 fr. ; guide, needless, 4 fr. 
Ascent, 4 hrs. (back, 2^.) 5 minutes short of the top is the 

Hotel Niesen, kept by a most respectable family, very good, comfortable, and 
I reasonable. 

Top, 7500 ft. Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps, etc., superior to the Faulhorn. 

1 Routes from Thun. 

To Lucerne, p. 102. | To Berne, rail, % hr., p. 124. 

I To the Simp Ion, by the Gemmi, next To Fevey, by the Simmenthal, p. 122. ' 
section. ' 



XLIV. PASS OF THE GEMMI. 

[ I. From Interlalcen, To Kandersteg, 31 mis., voiture, 1 horse, 
I 20 fr. ; 2 horses, 38 fr. ; back-fcires included. Thence, as subjoined. 



120 



GEMMI PASS. 



2. From Thun. To Frutigen, 15 mis., dil., as follows — i 

Thun dep. 3 45 p. m. | Frutigen dep. 5 — a. to. 

Frutigen arr. 6 45 p. m. i Thun arr. 8 — a. rc. 

Fare, 2 fr. 20 c. 

Then, Frutigen to Kandersteg, 8 mis., voiture, I horse, 9 fr, 
(Thun to Kandersteg, voiture, 1 horse, 18 fr. ; 2 horses, 35 fr.) — 

Thence, horse, to Top of Pass (Daub), 12 fr. ; or over Pass, to 
Leukerbad, 15 fr., — starting after 10 a.m., 20 fr. 

Scenery — Extraordinary, imposing. And this approach is far 
more striking and grand than inversely, let who will assert to the 
contrary. 

This opinion has given rise to g-reatdiscussion.— The Editor respectfully main- , 
tains it, in spite of his own first impression, generally the leading one, having ' 
been from the opposite side. It is trie common opinion of the Loeche people 
themselves. And it is universally admitted that the view fifow;;i precipices is more 
impressive than the view wp. 

It is to be noted that the approach from the opposite side is not denied to be 
very striking and grand— So he hopes that a mutual ' hand-shaking ' may take 
place between crossing Tourists somewhere about half-way up and down! 

The two routes, from Thun r., and Interlaken 1., meet near i 

Spietz, on the Lake of Thun, p. 118 — i 

From Thun, 5 mis. — From Interlaken, 13 mis. i 

The Lake is left, and the Kander Thai, carriage-rd., entered. i 

10 mis. fuilher, Frutigen, 2200 ft. i 

Hotel. i 

The most attractive-looking of all the villages of the Oberland, I 

amidst splendid scenery. i 

8 mis. Eiandersteg, 3300 ft. j 
Hotel Yictoria, I 
ExcLTisicx — To the CEschmeyi" Lahe and Yale, L — at the foot of { 

the snowy sheet of the Bliimhs Alp, 12,000 ft. Extremely ' 

beautiful. 3 miles. Horse-path. |: 

Cross Route — To Lanterhrunnen, 1. — by the foregoing, the | 

Dundengrat, and Sefinenthal — a gi-and but long day. Foot- | 

path. Guide essential. See page 115, i 

Beyond Kandersteg the char-road continues as far as j 

H ml. hr.) Ascent of the Gemini: horse-path only, inclining I 

to the r. The gorge of Klus, opening up the Gastern Thai, worth I 

being seen but not further explored, appears on the 1. Avalanche- ' 
remains mark the onward ascent. 

9 mis. (3 hrs.) Schwarenbach, 9900 ft. aidlet, 8 beds. Two | 
Italians murdered the owner's daughter in 1807 : the German poet I 
Werner follows, hears, and dramatises the place and deed: the | 
French novelist Dumas treads in his steps, refreshes the entire, i 
and throws in the host's wrath at the morbid crowd's enquiries , 
stimulated by the dramatist: a fresh ^ furore' arises, the concourse , j 
augments — and, in self-defence, the provolted parent turns the | 
whole thing into an auberge, where Hhe more the merrier.' 'Sweet 
are the uses of (Swiss) adversity.' , 



BATHS OF LELTC. 



121 



i| 11 mL (I hr.) Dauben See, a small lake, 800 ft. down to the r. 
ij From hence the way follows the direction of the lake, and then to 
I the 1. 

If ml. (f hr.) Top of the Gemmi, 7000 ft. (A few mmutes' 

detour to an eminence 1. commands ma- 
jestically the Valley of the Rhone, the 

Leukerbad abyss, and the mountain-cha.in 

between the Valais and Piedmont.) 
i The descent zigzags over a sheer abyss 
, of 1600 ft,, and is continually hidden by 

projecting rocks, so as to be invisible, 

either up or down, until trodden. Half- 
I way, the * Great Gallery' is passed. The 
j path averages 4 ft. wdde, perfectly pro- 
i| tected by parapets, but should not be 

ridden down. Formerly, the sick were conveyed along it blind- 
I fold. 

f hr. down to (1| hr. up from) the foot of the x^recipice. 
f hr. down (1 hr.'up from) Baths of Leuk, Fr. Loeche-les- 
Bains, Germ. Leukerbad, 4500 ft.— Pop. 500 E. C. 

Hotel des Alpes, well-placed, excellent, spacious, with every 
convenience, and Baths attached. 
I Hotel de l'Union, capital position, very good, recommendable, 
I and close to the Baths. 

A lot of wooden houses. And all on the strength of a warm 
spring, 124^ Fahr., so profuse, that its great body is discharged 
into the Dala unrequired. The New Bath-House accommodates, 
_in a large internal basin, the different sexes — unseparated ; with 
the further accommodation of being open to all the world to see, 
on condition of shutting the door and doffing the hat. The bathers, 
dressed as such, begin by short stages, and at length attain to 5 
hrs. before dinner and 3 hrs. after; the amusements swim about 
on trays ; and ' the cure' is complete in three weeks. 

Tarif. Bath — 2 ^^r. Horse and [man — to Dauben 5 fr. ; to 
Schwarenbach, 7 fr. ; to Kandersteg, if before 9 a.m., 15 fr., — if 
after, 18 fr. Porte-Chaise — to same, 4 fr., 5 fr., 8 fr., respectively, 
each carrier: 4 of whom 'go' to an 'ordinary person,' 6 to 
an * uncommon,' 8 to an * extraordinary.' To which belongest 
thou, 0 Reader? 

Excursions — 1. To ' the ladders,' U ml., 1. They rise, eight in 
number, from the foot of the rock, and lead to Albinen, 1 hr. 
up, 2f iirs. down : the ascent is far more * facilis ' for once, 
j than the 'descensus.' — To 'the ladders' and back, horse and 

I man, 3 fr. 

j 2. To the Cascade de la Dala, 25 min. Very picturesque. 




122 



BATHS OF LEUK. 



3. To the Col cle Torrejit, Germ. Galm, 9500 ft.. 4 hrs. up, 3 hr?. 
down. By ' the Ladders ' to Albinen ; then 1. to the summit. 
(Or by the Pas du Loup, good id. to the Torrent chalets' 
i hr. ; leave them to the r, : thence foot-path on. — Mule and 
man, 10 fr.) 

Admirable Alpine panorama, from ]\It. Rosa 1., by Mt. Blanc, 
to the Bernese glaciers, r. Guide necessary, 6 frs. 
From the Baths of Leuk to the Simplon^ — carriage-road 

To Sierre, p. ICO, omnibus daily, hrs. down, 8 fr. — Voiture, 1 horse, 16 fr. ; 
2 hor.. 2.5 fr. 

To Sion, p. 1 — Voiture, 1 horse, 25 fr. ; 2 horses, 40 fr. 
To Jfartigjuj, p. 150. — Voiture, 1 horse, 40 fr. ; 2 horses, 60 fr. 
To Suaten, below, omnibus daily, 2 hrs. down, 4 fr. — Voiture, 1 horse, 10 fr. ; 2 
hor., 15 fr. 

To Tourtemagne, 15 end 22 frs. ; io Viege, 22 and 36 fr.; to Brieg, 30 and 43 fr. 

— thi'ough the magnificent gorge of the Dala, vrhich has been 
likened to the Via Mala. A ^^-ild bridge is crossed at 

3 mis. (1 St.) Inden — Here the Tourist pays toll, 2 fr. per horse. 

To Sierre, foot-path, p. IGO. 

6 mis. ( 2 St.) Loechs, Germ. Leuk, 2500 ft.— Pop. 600. 

Picturesque ; but better stop at Tourtemagne or Sierre. 
1 ml. Susten, 2000 ft. — aiiherge, small — at the junction of the 
Simplon Route. Hence, either — 



Diligences daily. — Time r.nd Fares. Istt day — Thun to Gessenay, 9 hrs. (bick, 8 
hrs.\ 7 fr. 40 c. 2nd'riay — Gessenay to Eulle, 6 hrs. fback, 8 hrs.), 5 fr. 70 c. — From 
Jiulle to Vevey, 4 hirs., 4 fr. 25 c. From Bulle to Fribourg-, o hrs., coupe, 
4 fr. 60 c. ; inter., 3 fr. 75 c. ; whence to Berne, rail, 1 hr. laore. 

Scenery — Between Thun and Bulle, a succession of gentle 
hills, in a naiTOvr valley with a river, wooded heights, rocks, and 
hamlets : tame at Bulle : grand at Vevey — strange at Fribourg. 

Advice — -If from Berne to Thun be added, p. 127, the Simmen- 
thal forms a convenient circuit, 

Thun, 1750 ft.— page 118. 

The entrance to the Simmenthal from the Lake of Thun, be- 
tween the Stockhorn r., and Xiesen 1., is very fine. The Bliimlis 
Alp, 1., a sheet of resplendent snow, the Jungfrau, Eiger, and 
Schreckhorn, overlook distantly the way. 

64 mis. (2t stund.) Brothausi — (Ascent of the Niesen, p. 119.) 

7t mis. (2J stund.) "Weissenburg — auherge. 

Romantic. On the Simmen. 



Left. 
To Vie ore, Hi nils., 
for Zsr.Datt. 



Right. 
To Sierre, 6 mis., 
for Martigny. 



See page 161 



XXy. THE SIMMENTHAL. 



THE SIMMENTHAL. 



123 



11| mis. (3f St.) Zweisimmen, 3000 ft.—Pop. 1200. 

A poor village at the confluence of the two Simmens. 

Hence, up the Saanen-Moser valley, sprinkled with chalets, See. 
The Riiblehorn (' Dent des Chamois ) 7/00 ft., comes splendidly 
into sight ; then the snowy tops of the Sanetsch, 7600 ft., and 
Geltenhom Glacier, 8800 ft. 

8|- mis. (2|- St.) Gessenay, Germ. Saanen, 3200 ft. 

Hotel de l'Ours. 

A collection of old wooden houses, bearing on the exterior 
the names of master, mistress, builder, and an edifying sentence 
— here literally ' he who runs may read ! ' 

Pop. of the Saanen land, 3000. Manufact. Gruyere and 
' vacherin ' cheese. 

Ceoss Route — To Sion, on the Simplon, p. 160. By the 
Sanetsch Pass. — Char-rd. to Gsteig, 11 mis., — Thence horse-path, 
7f hrs. 

3 mis. Gstaad.—Ueve^the rd. forks to the r. 

(To the left, is the Valley ofLauenen, 12 mis. long, extremely picturesque, cas- 
cades, lakes, and the Geltenberg Glacier. Little known. Well worth a visit.) 
8 mis. Gsteig (French, Chatelet), 3800 ft.— auberge. 
(To the r., is the ValUes des Ormonts' path, see below.) 
2i- hrs. Top of the Sanetsch, 7600 ft.— Descent, hrs., viz. 
3} hrs. Chandolin — auberge. Still descending", 
i hr. Bridge of the Morge, high-rd. of the Simplon ; whence, 1., to 

1 hr.'s walk, 3 mis. Sion, 1800 tt. (Ascent /row Sion, 7 hrs.) 

Cuoss EouTE — Through the Vallees des Ormonts^ to Aigle (see 
also ' Chateau d'GEx' below.) 10 hrs.' walk. Carriage-rd. through- 
out nearly open. 

Trtri/^.— From Gsteig to the Plans, horse, 8 fr. From the Plans to Aigle, char., 
12 fr. 

1 1 mis. char-rd to Gsteig, as above. 

Thence horse-path, r., over the Col de Pillon, 5000 ft., to 

3 hrs. (9 mis.) Plans des lies, 3800 ft. — auberge. Char-rd. on. 

^ hr. (1^ ml.) Vers /' Eglise — auberqe. 

2 hrs. (6 mis.) Sepey, 3500 ft.— Road from Chateau d' ffix, see below. 
The Sarine edges the road hence to Fribourg. 

6i mis. (2J- St.) Chateau d'CSx, 3000 ft.—Pop. 600. 
Hotel de l'Ours, very good, reasonable, attentive, and recom- 
mendable. A most convenient stopping-place. 

Ciioss Route — Through the Vallees des Onnonis^ to Aigle, on 
the Simplon — 8 hrs.' walk. 20 mis. Very interesting. 

High-rd., If ml. ; then horse-path L, rising 1000 ft. 

9 mis. Comballe— the beginning of a perfectly auhen/ed 
descent through the Vallees des Ormonts, much frequented 
by boarders from the Genevan shores. 

3 mis. Sepey, 3500 ft. Fine views forward, mountain- 
flanked. {Road from Gessenaij, see above.) Carriage-rd. on. 

8 mis. Aigle, 1300 ft.— on the Simplon; \ hr. rail from 
ViUeneuve, on the Lake of Geneva, p. 151. 



124 



THE SIMMENTHAL." 



2j, mis. (f St.) Bcssiniere. 

Yillage, with the smallest wooden Pejisions and largest Farm- 
house in the Alps, 115 windows, and almost as many ^ wise saws ' 
carved amongst them. 

6| mis. (2t St.) Montbovon — 

Frontier village of Fribourg Canton, R. C. 

Cuoss Route — Over the Bent de Jaman to Vevey or Montreux 
— * beautiful as a dream,' Byron ; only so, when made from 
this side. 3 hrs. up, and 3 more down. Horse to the top, 
10 fr. ; the whole way, 20 fr. Guide, 5 fr., needless. 

Path 1. opposite Montbovon. \ hr., house, r. f hr. 
more, across a bridge over the Hongrin. \ hr. more, 
auherge of Allieres, the only one on the way. \% hr., Kulm 
of the Pass, 5000 ft. — splendid scene down on the Lake of 
Geneva. Thence, well-marked path, dividing, in J hr., — 

To Glion, left, in f hr. Thence to MontTeux, f hr. more ; p. 150. 
f hr, r. Les Avants hamlet. Beyond, f hr., the rd. divides — 

To Montreux or Vernex left, in | hr. ; p. 149. 

1| hr. r. Yevey, see below and p. 148. 
The remainder of the route is but a modified picturesque. 
Gruyere, famous for cheeses, lies to the 1. 
lOi mis. (31 St.) BuUe, 2300 ft.— Pop. 2000. 
Hotel. 

To Fribourg, p. 129, dil. ; whence rail to Berne, 1 hr. 
19 J mis. (6f St.) Vevey, 1200 ft.— p. 148. The final winding 
down, magnificent — Lake Leman below, and the Savoyard moun- 
tains all around. 



XLVI. BERNE. 

Pop. 26,000 Prot. 1500 R. C. 

Hotel Bernerhof, close to the Rail, a new and vast house of 
the highest order, finely appointed, one of the first of the Continent 
Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps. 

Hotel de la Coukonne, first-class, long established, reason- 
able, has the testimony of many travellers to its comfort and satis- 
factoriness. 

Hotel du Schw^eizerhof, close to the Rail, most convenient 
and comfortable, with very moderate prices. i 

Hotel du Faucon, long established, first-class, clean, excellent, j 

Hotel Pfistern, new house, close to the Clock-tower, large, j 
clean, moderate, and good. Landlord speaks English. 

Hotel de la Clef, close to the Post, newly built and arranged, ; 
quiet ; landlord anxious to please and * make comfortable.' Prices j 
particularly reasonable. 



BEBNE. 



125 



Hotel be la Cigogne, very quiet, convenient, and good, espe- 
cially suited to economists. 

Hotel du Singe, in chief street, No. 184, good, quiet. Pension. 

Hotel du Maltie, in chief street, close to the Post, highly 
recommendable for economy, convenience, and attention. 

Pensions — 

La Villette, admirably situated, just outside the city, most com- 
fortable, reasonable, and recommendable. 

JDu Singe^ in the city, see * Hotels ' above. Recommendable. 



Houses of Business — 

-Bff;2A-er5— Tschann-Zeerleder and Co., ] 83 Kramgasse (chief street). 
Physicians— W.^Y^ are some here of the highest eminence— 
— Dr. Demme, Professor, Inselgasse. 
—Dr. Gross, 183 Junkerngasse. 

Dentist— Dr. Buhler, 98 Rue de la Justice, the most distinguished. 
Chemist and Apothecary— MilWer, in chief street, between H. Couronne and H. 
- Maure, Professor of the University, of the highest reputation. 

Apot/iecary—Siuder, in chief street, close to the Rail and Spital. Attached to 
the British Embassy. Of the highest reputation. 

Wood-sculp lures, Sfc. — Huntzigker-Schmid, Grande Rue, No. 

210. For Swiss carvings and paintings, etc., the finest collection 

and best house. 

Music and Musical Instruments — Krompholz, Arcade de I'Hotel, 
No. 229. For sale, and for subscription. 

' Horlogerie^ Watches^ Clocks, Chains, Musical boxes — M. Perrin- 
Chopard. The best workmanship, and integrity. 

Travelling-articles, Bags, Trunks, Saddles — Ruegiegger, 42 Rue du March^, 
the main street, side of the svn, between H. Faucon and Kiifig-thurm. Firsi-class 
work. Reasonable prices. Repairs especially w^ell. 

Perfumery, Soaps, Brushes— S. Viande and Co., 212 Grande Rue, best. 

Dress, Clothes, Rugs, Shirts, Collars, ^-c — Bloch, 172 Grande Rue, beside 
Post. Ready-made, and to measure. (A complete suit in 24 hrs.) The best 
house. 

Cigars, Tobacco, 4'c. — Buchhofer-Haas, No. 183, opposite Railway-station, and 
beside the Bernerhof, is a genuine Importer from the Havana, Hamburgh, and 
Amsterdam. 

Oninibuaea and Cabs.— see page 11 v. 




BERNE. 



Innerbad 



Bernerhof □ 



bridge 
Bear 



pit 



125 



Bath.3 — By the Aarziehle-Thor, ' Aar-gate/ 
Foreign Ministers to the Confederation reside here. 

British — The Hon. Capt. Harris. 

UxiTED States — Theodore S. Fay, Esq. 
Passports may here be vised, if necessary. 
Benevolent Institutions — of various kinds, numerous. 
English Church, in the * Burger Spital.' 

Situation — On the Aar, which almost encircles the city, 109 
ft. below. The best habitations overhang this, towards the Ober- 
land. Founded by Berchtold of Ziihringen, where he fought and 
slew a bear — Berii, * bears,' form the armorial insignia, most lav- 
ishly multiplied on all sides. The wide streets are threaded 
centrally by a running stream, the houses are built over an 
arched footway, and, with their bright-cushioned and awning'd 
windows, look quite Oriental. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral, Gothic, 1421. The great entrance is 
sculptured with the Last Judgm.ent. The balustrade round the 
top, each compartment changing, reflects splendidly Ruskin's 
*Lamp of Sacrifice.' Plain inside. Sacristan, f fr. 

2. Bronze statue of Erlacli, the hero of Laupen, p. 129, close by. 

3. Platteforme, behind the Cathedral, once a resting-place of 
the dead, now a recreating-place of the living, commands glori- 
ously the distant Oberland by sunrise or sunset ; L, ^Vetterhorn, 
Schreckhorn, Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bliimlis Alp, Doldenhorn, 
r. Between, and lower than, the two last, the Niesen and Stock- 
horn. — Parapet-wall, leapt by a student on horse-back, in 1654; 
the horse perished, the man escaped and became a religieux ; see 
inscription. — Statue of Berchtold, see above. 

4. Museum : rich in zoolog}% botany, antiquities : free, Tues., 
Sat, 3 to 5 p.m. ; Sun., 10 to 12; at other times, 1 fr. for 1 to 3 
persons. — Note the stuffed dog 'Barry' which saved 15 lives on 
the Gt. St. Bernard Pass. 

5. Zeitglockenthurm, ' clock-tower,' in the principal street — 

3 minutes before the hour — Cock crows dilapidately (no wonder ! he has been 
so long 'at it,') and flaps his win^js. 2 viin. if/o re— Merry- An drew, on top, agi- 
tates a bell; and a procession of Bears circles below. At the /jom?-— the Kin? 
turns his hour-glass, and checks otf the account (as, of course, Kings always do) 
with his sceptre ; a Bear on his r. nodding approbation (as not unfrequently 
happens also elsewhere). And another Cock-crow finishes all. 

6. Fomitains : everywhere — the quaintest being near the last, 
the Kindlifresser-Brunnen, ' child-eater's fount,' representing that 
interesting order of the good old days — that ' love of an Ogre ! ' 

7. Bdrengrahen, ' bear-pit,' by the Nydeck-bridge, vv'ith a lot of 
the ' live lions ' of iBerne. 

8. Uathhaus. — 9. R. C. Church. — Call for no note. 

10. Gallerij of Taintinrjs, 'Kunst saal,' in the French Church. 

Open gratis, from 9 to 4 p. m. Shut, Saturday. Fee, from Sep. 15 to Oct. 15. 
— Painters principally Swiss.— Entering each compartment, turnfofAe r. 



BEENE. 



127 



1st Gomparteient, r. No. 67, 'Dead Hector.' 14, Calanie, * MeyrinGfen.' Under 
it, no No., I)e Mevron, *Sick Peasant's family.'— 2«rf 0. No. i;^, Calame, •Han- 
deck.' 21, Didaij, ' Lauterbrunnen.' 51, Koller, 'Cow.' 75, Petzel (MiiDich), 
' Female contemplating- the Madonna and Child,' exquisite. 76, Prevost, ' Schei- 
deck.' 64, Langlois, ' Koy and Melon.'— 3r^/ C. No. 34, Eberle (Munich), ' Cow 
scene.' Above it, 24, Dietler, ' Children.' 1, Aberli, * Lake view, Thun,' 53, 
Koenig, ' Landscape, Interlaken,' admirable. 93, Steffan, 'Landscape, Glarus.' 
43, Girardet, ' Morat Battle.'— 4//i C. No. 110, • Biirger's Leonor.' 19, JDidai/, 

* Oberland scene.' 122, Zelger, ' Emmatten.' Fine Engraving of * the Girondins,' 
identifying each. — ^th G. Jtiheinhardt of Lucerne, A. D. 1793-95, ' Old Swiss Cos- 
tumes,' in 30 frames, each containing 4 groups, each costume a personal porir«i?. 
Holbein-like, most interesting. — Terra-cotta model of Mad. Langhans' Tomb 
(see below). 

11. Kafig-thurm^ properly called ('bird-cage tower'), a prison. 

12. ChristopJi-tJmrm^ close to the Rail; Hower' with rude colossal 
painting of ' St. Christopher.' The Oath of Griitli (p. 91) on the 
reverse. 

13. Biirger-sjjital, ' city-hospital,' inscribed Christo i7i pauper ihus 
— ' To Christ in the persons of the poor.' 

14. Morat-gate. Great granite Eears as sentinels. 

15. Federal Palace, * Bundes-Eathhaus/ magnificent building 
and point of view. The Swiss ' House of Commons.' Sitting 
generally in July : open to the Public. 

16. The Enge, 10 min. from the Railway- station. Cafe. Love- 
liest Oberland view of all. Opposite, the fortress of Reich en- 
bach, where Erlach, the conqueror of Laupen, v/as slain in cold 
blood by a son-in-law whose debts he would not discharge. (Ah ! 

* those sons-in-law ! ' But Lear would have reversed the process.) 

Excursions — 1. To Mme, Langhans' Tomh^ in the Church of 
Hindelbank, 9 mis. Carriage-rd. : or rail, f hr. See page 129. 
Her death took place in childbirth, and the Tomb represents the 
two bursting the grave to the Final Judgment, with the Motto, 

* Here am 1, and the child that Thou hast given me.' The drive, 
which goes by the Papiermiihle, may be varied by returning 
through Hofwyl, famed for Fellenberg's Educational Institute, 
now no more, which will add but 2 miles. 

2. To Frihourg^ drive 3 J hrs., p. 129. This should certainly 
be visited. Most striking scenery. (Rail, 1 hr.) 

3. To Morat, drive 3 hrs., p. 130. Historically interesting. 
Berne, Fribourg, Morat, Berne, form, a good short circuit. 

Routes from Berne. 



To Basle, see next section. 

To Soleure, by rail, 1:^: hrs., p. 135, 136. 

To Lucerne — by the P'ntlibuch 1 

by the Oberland V p. 101. 

*- by rail. ) 

To Thun, rail, f hr.,p. 118; for Inter- 
la ken, §-c. 



I To the SimmevthaU p. 122. 
To Zurich^ rail, see next pa^ze. 
To Fribourg, rail, 1 hr., p. 129. 
To Vevey, Lausanne, etc., p. 129. 
7b Geneva, rail and steam, p. 131. 
To Paris, dil. and rail, p. 13. 
To Bicnne, etc., rail, 2^ hrs., \\ 131, 134. 



128 



TLTIGI TO OLTEX. 



XLVII. BASLS-^BEME. 

1. 7?y the Val Moutier. 13 hrs. Most I 2. By Olten, rail throughout. 4 hrs. 
beautiful. I Quickest. 

Basle to Bisnns, 10^ hrs., dil., p. 134- I Basle to Olten, 1^ hr., rail, p. 81. 
Bienne to Berne, 2\ hrs., rail, p. 131. 1 Olten to Berne, 2j hrs., rail, next sect. 

3. By the Oberkauenstein, picturesque, Tf hrs., rail and dil., page 133. 



XLYIII. ZtiRICH— SCEmSNACH— BEME. 

Rail, 4J hrs. Sit on the r. 
Ziirieli, p. 56, ^ 

f hr. Baden — > Zuiich to Tiirgi, p. 54. 
J hr, Turgi — ) 

From Targi to Olten and Berne, as follows ; 
T/ie Junction of the three great Rivers, Limmat, Reuss, and Aar 
is close to Bru gg on the r., before reaching it. 
5 min, Brugg — 
Hotel Maison HouGe. 

A quaint old town, thrice burnt. Here Zimmermann ('On 
Solitude ') was first introduced to Society. 

To the 1. of the rail, near, are Yindonissa and Konigsfelden — 

— Ruins of Vindo7iissa, Germ. "Windisch, 5th cent Fortified 
by Drusus ; razed by Childebert, 594. The site of the Roman 
amphitheatre is still distinguishable at Barhsgrube ; and Yespa- 
sians aqueduct still extends from Birr to 

— Ahheij of Konigsfelden. Here Albert, son of Rodolph of 
Habsburg, Emp. of Austria, was murdered by his nephew and 
knights, in 130S; and here his widow, Elisabeth of Austria, and 
daughter, Agnes of Hungary, built this structure with the con- 
fiscated wealth of the mxurderers, whose entire families (to the 
number of 1000) the latter, with the utmost ruthlessness, almost 
exterminated, and then ended herein her own miserable existence. 
The doctrines of Zvvingli and Luther opened the conventual doors, 
and, to the horror of half the world, m.y Lord Abbot and Lady 
Abbess got married. It is now a mad-house. 

* To what base uses we may turn, Horatio ! ' 

The Choir has some good stained glass, — The awful, antique por- 
trait of the evil Queen is preserved and ought to be inspected 
at the 

~ hr. Baths of Schinznach — 
Hotel, spacious and vrell ordered. 

A place rapidly rising in estimation, and bidding fair to super- 
sede the Spas of Germany — possessing as valuable properties, 
purer air, greater quietness, and a selecter circle. 

The rail passes the Bath- House Hotel. 



BATHS OF SCHINZNACH. 



129 



English Church Service, by a resident English Clergyman. 

The Water contains sulphuretted hydrogen (as that of Harro- 
gate), chlorine, and salts of sulphur ; is applied by drinking, bath- 
ing, and douche ; and is eminently remedial in chronic, scrofulous, 
and various female disorders, diseases of the bones, removal of 
foreign matter, bullets, splinters, etc. A celebrated physician has 
observed, ' La situation en est delicieuse, I'hotel magnifique, la 
table royale, les eaux excellentes, les bains detestables ! ' the last 
word applies only to the composition of them. Pains are taken 
to make them ' comfortable.' 

Excursions — 1. The old Walls of Gottishausen — close to the 
Baths. Heathen temple ? or military edifice ? 

2. Ruins of Habshurg — ~ hr. walk up the Wiilpelsburg, 1800 
ft. Built, 1020, From hence Rodolph was summoned to 
ascend the Imperial throne — a race which ended only with 
Maria Theresa in 1780. Dehghtful view. {Left of Rail.) 

3. The Four Limes — If ml. distant, to the r. — crowning the 
Botzberg. Yestiges of a Roman Mihtary "Way, running from 
Augst hither, and hence by Baden, Winterthur, and Arbon, 
to Augsburg. Perhaps a superior point of view. 

4. The Gislifuh—l^ ml. distant, r., 3000 ft. high. Splendid 
sunset-station. 

(Foot-path, over the Gislifiuh, and along the Aar, very pretty, 
in 3 hrs., between Schinznach and) 
J hr. Aarau — Pop. 4500. 
Inns. 

Very queer-looking old town. Death-place of Zschokke. 
i hr. Olten, p. 81. 

To Basle, r. hr. To Lucerne^ 1., 2| hrs. 

1 hr. Merzogenbuclisee — Pop. 4500. 

To Soleure and Bienne, branch-rl., p. 136. 

f hr. Hindelbank — Mad. Langhans' Tomb, page 127. 
f hr. Berne, page 126. 

fhr. Thun — ^by rail continued ; p. IIS. 



XLIX. BEEIJE— EEIBOURG— VEVEY and LAUSAH¥E. 
Berne to Fribourg, 19|- mis. Posting, 3J hrs. Rail, 1 hr. 

Fribourg to Vevey, by Bulle, 37h mis., I2h stiuid., dil., 7 hrs., 8 fr. (coupe, 9 fr. 
90 c.) J J ,2,3 

Fribourg to Lausanne, by Oron, 38 mis., 121 stund. Rail nearly open, 2^ hrs. 

Scenery — In and round Fribourg, striking : and the descents 
on Vevey and Lausanne equally so. The intermediate spaces, 
poor No inducement to walk. 



130 



FRIBOUUG — ^^lORAT. 



Berne, Railway-station, page 124. 
8^ mis. (2f stund.) Neueneck — 

Excursion — To Laupen Battle-field^ and monument commemo- 
rative of the victory of the Bernese under Eiiach, p. xxx, 
over the forces of Burgundy, etc., June 22, 1399 : otherwise 
not worth visiting. 4 mis. by road, r. 

The valley of the Sarine begins to form ; deepens with rocks, 
below the road ; and finally winds into a mass of houses, sti'ati- 
fying both sides of the gorge from top to bottom, overcapped by 
St. Nicholas' Church and the Old College of the Jesuits, and 
crossed by tw^o slender iron bridges — constituting 

\\\ mis. (3? St.) Fribourg, Germ. Freiburg, 2000 ft.— Pop. 
8500 R. C, 500 Prot. 

Hotel de Zahrixguen, first-class, very good, splendid situation. 

Hotel des Merciees, opposite the Cathedral, reasonable, quiet, 
and recommendable. 

Sights — 1. The greater Suspension Bridge, length, 900 ft. 

2. 21ie lesser Iron Bridge^ of Gotteron — 700 ft. long. 

3. Cathedral, gothic, 1285 : bas-relief of the Last Judgment 
over entrance, striking Organ, one of the first in Em'ope — 
7800 pipes, played daily at If p.m. and again before sunset. Fee, 
12 frs., admitting 12 persons, (a party is always arranged in the 
Hotels.) 

4. Lime-tree of 3Iorat, now 14 ft. in circumference, opposite 
the ancient Rathhaus (Hotel de Yille), planted from the branch 
borne by the first Fribourgian lad who ran breathless from Morat 
with the glad tidings of the Burgundians' defeat, and fell dead 
in pronouncing the word ^ Victory ! ' 

ExcLTisiox — To Morat, 11 mis., drive 2 hrs., see next sect. 
To the MoUson, 6500 ft. 4 hrs. by carriage, and then If hr.'s 
w^alk. Atiherge, f hr. below the summit. Magnificent view. 
Cross Route — Through the Simmenthal, to Thun, etc., p. 122. 

By Bulle, p. 124, dil., 7 hrs., to \ By Oron. rail, 2i hrs., to 

38 mis, Vevey, p. 147. | 38 mis. Lausanney p. 146. 

4 hrs. steam. Geneva. \ \\ hr. rail. Geneva^ 



L. EEEKE— MOEAT— LATISAE-KE. 

Post-rd. 57J mis. (19-J. stundcn.) Dil. 9J hrs. 

Scenery — Unattractive. The preceding route more advisable. 
Berne, Post-office, page 124. 

17 mis. (51 stund.) Morat, Germ. Murten— Pop. 1900. 

Interesting only for the Battle of June 22, 147ii; where 34,000 
Swiss met an immense host of Burgundians under Charles the 
Bold, and slew 15,000 : close to the town, mxarked by an obelisk. 

"Morat and iMarathon twin names shall stand ; 
They were true Glory's stainless victories, 
Won by the unambitious heart and hand." — Byeox. 



AVENCHES. 



131 



6 nils. (2 St.) Avenclies, Germ. Wifiisburg — Pop. 1600 (in the 
time of the Caesars, 60,000). 

'Aventicum' of the Romans, and Capital of Helvetia. — The 
Helvetians refusing to recognise Vitellius, C{3ecina met them at 
the Botzberg, p. 54, and advanced hither. The city sm-rendered, 
and its governor, Julius Alpinus, was beheaded. It was after- 
wards sacked by the Huns. 

Traces of amphitheatre, towers, and city-walls remain. Small 
museum of gatherings, fee 2 fr. Byron's ^ lone wall and lonelier 
column' continue. No tomb ever existed with the alleged in- 
scription on which his touching lines are based, as to the early 
death of the daughter of Alpinus with her father — but is not 
the circumstance true enough to Humanity ? 

* She died on him she could not save.' 

Julia Alfinula hie jaceo, infelicis patrns infelix proles, Decs Aventice sacer- 
do3 : exorare patris necein non potui, male mori in fatls illi erot : vixt annos 
^XIIl. ' T, Julia Alpinula, rest here, hapless child of a hapless father, priest- 
ess of the Goddess Aventia: my prayers could not save my father's life, whose 
destiny was to die a violent death : I have lived 23 years.') 

34| mis. (11 J St.) Lausanne^ p. 146. (Rail to Geneva, \\ hr.) 



LI. BEEHE— BIEMl^E. 
For the Yal Moutier — or G-eneva. 
Berne, p. 124. 

1^ hr. rail. Herzogenbuchsee Junction, p. 129, 136. 
I hr. Solenre, p. 135. 
f hr. Bienne, p. 134. Whence 
10| hrs. Basle, by Val Moutier. | 5 hrs. Geneva, by Neuchatel. 
Both routes in next section but one. 



III. BESHE— GENEVA. 

\st icay. By Bienne. As preceding section, and following. 
(7| hrs.) 

' Ind way. By Vevey (12 hrs.), or Lausanne (4| hrs.), p. 129. 



LIII. GENEVA— BASLE. 

Geneva to Merges— rail, 1 hr. ; (or steam, prettier, 2 hrs.) 
Morges to Yverdon — rail, 1 hr. 

Yverdon to Bienne — steam on Lakes Neuchatel and Bienne, 4\ hrs. ; (or rail, 
l6ss picturesque, 3 hrs ) 

Bienne to Basle— By Val Moutier, hrs., dil. By Olten, 4 hrs., rail 

N 



I 



132 YVERDON. 

Geneva. Steam or rail on (passing Xyon and Rolle) — 

1 hr. rail (or 2 hrs. steam.) Morg'ss, Rail on — ) i ^ < i 

ihr. Lausanne- ^ p. 144, 14o. 

IS: ?CoTaySro7-| ^-^A.r«ZO.i.. see below. 
\ hr. Yverdon— Pop. 3300. 

Hotel de Loxdres, long established, worthy of confidence, 
comfortable, and good. In convenient proximity to the Rail. 
An agi^eeable, quiet, and reasonable stopping-place. 

Railway Bltfet, Buffet du Chemin de Fer,' convenient to the 
station, table d'hote, biecikfast, dinner, etc. 

Clotliiers, Tailors — Perret- Jordan, * A la Ville de Paris.' Clothes 
ready-made, and to measure. Thoroughly recommendable. 

Excursions through the Val Orbe, most interesting, little known. 

Yverdon to Orbe, dil., li^hr., 1 fr. 15 c. (or rail to Chavornay, above, I hr.' 
whence dil., 3 mis , to Orbe.) 

Orbe, 1500 ft.— Pop. 2000. Formerly Capital of Little Burgundy. Here Charle- 
magne's 3 grandsons met to divide the Empire. 

From Orbe to Le Pont, two ways— about same distance, 14 mis. ; time, 3 hrs., 
drive ; dils., 2^ fr.— 

{^) By Vaulion village. 2500 ft. (Cross-foot-path over the Dent to Vallorbe, 
li hr.) 

(2) By VaUorbe,2500 it—auberge. (Sources of the Orbe, subterranean exit of 
the Lac de Joux, ^ hr.— Ascent of the Dent de Vaulion, 4800 ft., 1 hr., magnificent 
view ; and down to Vaulion, see above, | hr. more ; whence rd. to Le Pont, 
5_mls., 1 hr.) 

Le Pont, 3300 ft. — auberge. On the Lac de Joux. 

The above forms a nice days work from Yverdon, Lausanne, etc. 

From Le Pont— (i) To Cossonay station, above, 12 mis., dil., 3 hrs., 2 fr. 
(whence to Lausanne, above, rail, ^ hr.) 

(2) Along the Lake, 9 mis., dil,, 2 hrs., IJ fr., (or voiture, 10 fr.,) to 

Le Brassus. 3300 ft. — Botel de France, best. 

Good rd. on. Up the Col de Marcheiruz, 4700 ft., hr., magnificent view. 
Down to St. George village, li hr. Thence to the Lake of Geneva and rail, above 
— ( ' ) at Rolle, 9 mis. (2) at Ayon, 11 mis. 

From Yverdon to Bienne. 

By Rail, 3 hrs. By Steam, 4^ hrs., parallel, more picturesque. 
Steain ^-s. 1st place. 2nd place. 

Yverdon to Jseuch^tel . . . . 3 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. 
Neuchatel to Nidau (Bienne) 3 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. 

Lake of Neuchatel. 

Germ. Neuenburger See. 30 mis. long : 4 mis. broad. Pretty. 

Carriage-rds. on both sides. Steamers, several times daily. 
The time by steam, and distance by post-rd., are subjoined. 

\ hr. 2 mis. Grandson — Pop. 1200. — Inns, 

Charles the Bold besieged the City in 14/6, and on its surrender 
to his promises, broke them, and butchered the inhabitants. 20,000 
Swiss, exasperated at the atrocity, assailed the Burgundian forces 
(100,000) immediately after, and gained a signal victory and 
enormous booty, on the same spot — March 3. 



LAKE OF NEUCHaTEL — LAKE OF BIEXNE. 



133 



if tir. 13| mis. NeucMtel— Pop. 7000 Prot., 700 R. C. 

Hotel des Alpes, first-class, situated on the Port, the best posi- 
tion, kept by its Proprietor, very good. 

Hotel du Lac, in the best situation, on the Quai, sweet view, 
unpretending, but very good and satisfactory : clean, anxious to 
please, and very reasonable. 

Watches and Jewellery— M^iyer, under H. des Alpes, is the D€p6t of the ' Union 
Horlogere' for the sale ot articles guaranteed ofthe first quality. The best Watches 
can be bought here cheaper than at Geneva. 

Tailors, Clothiers— Blum, freres, ' A la Ville de Paris,' excellent. 

Sights — 1. The ancient Chateau : on a hill: good view. 

2. The High Church. Tombs of the old Counts of Neuchatel : 
the principal, a vast Gothic of 1392, restored in 1840. 

3. Museum of Alpine Natural History, 

4. Paintings of Swiss Artists^ 

To the Trouee du Seyon, tunnel of 500 ft., by which the impetuous river is con- 
ducted safely to the Lake. 10 min. on Yverdon-rd. 
To the Gorge du Seyon, on the Vallengin-rd., | hr. 

To the Pierre-d-bot] ' toad-stone,' a vast mass brought hither from the Alps by 
the movement of Glaciers since eztinct. On the Chaumont-rd., | hr. 

Excursion — To the Top of the Chaumont, 3600 ft, 

JFalk — along the Chaux-de-Fonds rd., i ml. ; then path r. to 

the summit, I hr. 
Drive — along same rd., 2 mis. ; then, char.-rd r. to the sum- 
mit, 1|- hr. Char up and down, 10 fr. 
Inn on top. Fine view : similar to the Weissenstein, p. 136 

To Verrieres, rail, [1^- hr. Thence to Pontarlier, dil, 2 hrs. ; whence rail to 
Paris, 10 hrs. ; p. 13. 

To Chaux^de-Fonds, p. 134, rail in construction. 
To Geneva, reverse the foregoing pages. 

To Berne, steam and rail, 4 hrs., passing Bienne, as follows :— 

The river Thiele is now steamed up, 1 hr., into the 

Lake of Bienne. 
Germ. Bieler See. llf mis. long, 2| broad. Pretty. 

^ hr. 9| mis. Neuveville, Germ. Neuenstadt — Pop. 1200. 

Hotel du Faucon, to the r. of landing-place. 

To the TojJ of the Chasseral^ char-rd., 3J hrs. See next page. 

Isle of St. Pierre — where Rousseau misanthropically rusti- 
cated, till the canton politely expelled him, in 1765. One house, 
with his room intact, occupies it. — 2 mis.' row from Neuveville ; or 
6 mis.' row from Bienne. The Steamer passes close to it. 

1^ hr. 9 mis. ISTidau. Disembarking-place of the Steamers, 
-close to railway-station. Rail (5 min.) to Bienne station — ► 
Omnibus also between the steamers and, 1 ml. distant, 

N 2 



134 



BIEXNE — YAL MOUTIER. 



1 ml. Bienne, Geim. Biel, 1400 ft.— Pop. 4000 Prot. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, well reported of, clean, comfort- 
able, satisfactory. Agi^eeable and good Fensioji also. 

Hotel du Jitia, well placed, well kept, ver}^ good, comfortable, 
and recommendable. 

Clothiers, Tailors — Blum., freres, * A la Yille de Paris/ Clothes 
ready-made, and to measure. Thoroughly recommendable. 

ExcLTvSiox— To the Top of the Chasseral, 5000 ft. : 4^ hrs.' 
ascent : auherge, f hr. short of the summit. Char-rd. 
Yiew similar to the Weissenstein, p. 136. 

Biemie to Berne. Rail, 2|- hrs. See p. 131. 



BeLV>'een Bienne and Basle is a choice of three routes. 
Bienne to Basle. 
1. By the Val Moutier. 

Germ. Miinster Thai. Most interesting. Through the defiles 
of the Jm-as, richly wooded and romantic. Dil. daily, lOJ hrs. 

Fare— Bienne to Moutier, 5 hrs., 5 fr. Moutier to Basle, 5h hrs., 7 fr. 30 c. 

By Yoiture — 2 days : sleeping at Tavannes or Maileray. 
Bienne, above. 

9| mis. (31 St.) Sonceboz, 2400 ft—Lm. 
ExccnsiON — To Chaux-de-Fonds, 19 mis., 6| st., dil., 4 fi.'. 10 
c. Romantic road. 

Chaux-de-Fonds, 3000 ft.— Pop. 15,0^0. —Inns. 
Manufact. watches: upwards of 100,000 annually. 
Cross Route — To Neuchatel : continuation of preceding: 14| 

mis., 4f St., further. Picturesque : p. 133. 
\\ ml. (f St.) The ' Pierre Pertuis,' petra pei'tusa, a rock, natur- 
ally perforated, acting as a gate to the road ; bearing an old Ro- 
man inscription of the year 161 — 'The Helvetian colony to the 
emperors.' The Birs foams alongside finel}'. 
\\ ml. (f St.) Tavannes, 2400 it,~Inn. 
4 mis. (If St.) Maileray — Inn. 

7 mis. (2| St.) Moutier, Germ. Miinster, 1700 ft.— Pop. 1200. 
Inn, * Cerf,' reasonable. 

Exclusion — To the Weissenstein, page 136. Dil.-rd. to Giins- 
brunnen, 7 mis. Thence char-rd. up, 2 hrs. — Char, through- 
out and back, 2 horses, 20 fr. 

JS'ote.—lhQ ascent from this side is more effective than from Soleure, as showing 
nothing of the gi'and view on the top till the whole appears at once. 

Cross Routp: — To Bcdsthal, on the high-rd, from Basle to So- 
leure, p. 136. Dil. from each extremity daily, in 4\ hrs., 
3 fr. Continuation of preceding, beyond Gansbrunnen. 



YAL MOUTIEE. 



135 



Another rude defile follows. Then, the forges of Courrendlin. 

8 mis. (2f St.) Delemont, 1400 it--I?in. 
The Val Moutier ends. 

The Pichoux, a magnificent defile of rocks, 9 mis. from Delemont, is almost un- 
Icnown. 

From Bienne, Delemont may be driven to, and Moutier re- 
turned to, the same day: next morning, the Weissenstein be 
mounted, Soleure descended to, and left by rail, and Basle reached 
the same evening. 

2 mis. (f St.) SoyMere village. — Inn. 

The valley is still picturesque to 

9 mis. (3 St.) Laufen village, 1200 ft—Inn. 

Cross Route — To JBalsthal, on the high-rd. from Basle to So- 
leure. A lovely path for Pedestrians, — past Meltigen Baths, 
Neuhaush, and Mumliswyl, — 13 mis. See p. 134, 136. 

Between this and Basle, but to the r. of the rd., lie the Battle- 
Jlelds of Dornacli and St, Jacob, p. 53. 

15 mis. (5 St.) Basle, page 51. 

Bienne to Basle. 

. " 2. By Soleure and Clten. 

Rail throughout, 4 hrs. 
Bienne, preceding page. 

f hr. Soleure, Germ. Solothurn, 1400 ft.— Pop. 5000. 

Hotel de la Coueonne, first class, excellent. 

Hotel de la Tour, close to the Roman Clock-tower, highly re- 
commended for quietness, civility, moderation, and desire to give 
satisfaction. In this House Kosziuslw lived. 

This and Treves are the oldest cities north of the Alps. 

Sights — 1. Church of St, Ursus, a martyr of the time of Ma- 
ximan (Theban legion ; see p. 154). 

2. Cloch'Tower, in which the clock makes an exhibition of itself 
every hour, like that of Berne. Building of the 5th century. 

3. Arsenal, rich in old armour. Armed figures a la Ttissaud, 

4. Museum, magnificent in Alpine minerals. 

5. House whet^e Kosziusho died, in 1817; close to the Post, No. 5. 

6. Jesuits' Church, A ' Crucifixion * by Holbein. 

7. Franciscan Church, An altar-painting by Raphael. 
Excursions — 1. To the Hermitage, 40 min. walk — well worth a 

visit. By the Basle-gate. 1. to a villa with 2 towers : then r. Path 
behind the Brewery of Bargezzi, through a charming valley. 

If ml. Village of St. Nicholas ; in the meadow beyond which 
is the Hermitage — -where St. Yerena is said to have led the life of 
trial of a female St. Dunstan. The spot is a sweet one. 

A foot-path leads up hence to the Weissenstein, so that this can 
be taken en route by adding 15 min. 



136 



soleuhe. 



2. To the Top of the Weissenstein, 3900 ft. Guide needless. 71 
mis., 3 hrs.* walk hi/ rd. ; 2 hrs. hj foot-path. Drive, 2J hrs. Chaiv 
there and back, for 1 to 3 persons (2 horses), 18 fi*. ; more persons 
5 fr. each ; 4 fr. more if the night be spent above. 

Regular char for the Weissenstein, at 6 a. m. and 5 p. m. , a seat, 5 fr. Return 
next morning-, 3 fr. 

Hotel on top, in a snperb situation, well kept and frequented. Pension 
most reasonably. Admirable pure air, and ' cure du petit lait.* 

The sunset and sunrise surpass the Rigi. Perhaps the easiest 
and most magnificent view of the Alpine range. See Balsthal and 
Moutier, page 134 and below. 

Routes from Soleure — to Eerne, Lucerne, Ziirich, Basle, Bienne, 
see below. 

J hr. Herzogenbuclisee Junction, p. 129. 

1] hr. rail. Herzogenbi:clise3 Junction, from Berne. 
1 hr. Olten — ^Central Junction, p. 81, 

To and from Lucerne (2| hrs.), Zurich (2^ hrs.), and 

If hr. Basle, page 51. 

Bienne to Basle, 
3. By Soleure and the Oberhauenstein. 

This route is reversed, as it is only thus the effect is gained. 
Basle to Soleure. Post-rd. 6 hrs.' drive. Dil. daily. Fare, 7i fr- 
Basle, page 51. Rail as far as 
i hr. 9| mis. (3|- stund.) Liesthal. 
Sfmls. (2|st.) Waldenburg, 1000 ft.— Pop. 600.— Jww. 
Commencement of the Upper Hauenstein Pass, 3000 ft. — View 
analogous to, but finer than, the Lower, p. 81. 
71 mis. (2j St.) Balsthal, village — Inn. 

Commencement of the Klus Gorge — * closed ' by the Lords of 
Falkenstein, whose ruined Fort crowTis the overhanging rock. 
Other forts of little note succeed. 

Cross Routes — 1. To the Val 3foutier (either to Laufen, foot- 
path, 13 mis. : or to Moutier, dil.-rd., drive A\ hrs.) See p. 134, 
135. 

2. Over the Welssenstein^ to Soleure. Dil.-rd. to Welsch- 
enrohr village, 9 mis. Foot-path up, \\ hr. See p. 134. 
12} mis. (4|- St.) Soleure, preceding page; whence, rails. 

To Bienne, J hr., for Geneva, p. 135. 

To Berne^ \\ hr., past Herzogenbuchsee above, and p. 129. 



GENEVA. 



137 




LIV. GENEVA. 

French, Geneve. German, Genf. 
Pop. 28,000 Prot, 10,000 R. C. 

Manufacture — ^ViTatches : Annual aver- 
age, 100,000. 

Omnibuses, page Iv. Cabs, pag^e 140. 



—To Lyons Railvi' ay-station 



\r.C. Church 



Villa Bartoloni 



To Lausanne — 
Saconnex 




Swiss side 



Quai des Bergues 
The 3 River Rhone )o He ilousseau 




Light-house * 
The Lake 



Jardin Anglais 



Savoy side 
To Cbamouny— 



Streets are marked thus • 



Pirst Class Hotels — 

Hotel des Bergues, in view of Mont Blanc, facing the Lake, 
near the Rail and EngHsh Church, spacious, excellent. Arrange- 
ments can be advantageously made in cases of prolonged stay. 

Hotel de l'Ecu de Geneve, facing the Lake and close to the 
Steamers, long-established, largely frequented by Americans and 
^English, excellent. 

Hotel de la Metropole, facing the Lake and Jardin Anglais, 
new, vast, magnificent. Excellent. 

Hotel d'Angleterre (Goy-Lacroix), facing the Lake and Jar- 
din Anglais, excellent. 

Hotel Victoria, near the Rail, and opposite the English 
Church, richly furnished, well suited for famihes, quiet, excellent. 



138 



GENEVA. 



Second-class Hotels — 

Hotel de la BAL.\isCE,Rue du Rhone, close to thePost, Tele- 
graph, and DiHgences, convenient, reasonable, anxious to please. 
Tables d'hote at 12| and 5 p.m. Dinners, etc., ' a la carte,' at 
all times. 

Hotel du Gii.4ND Aigle, Rue du Rhone, convenient to the 
Steamers and Lake, well-kept, clean, reasonable : three tables 
d'hote : the landlord a thorough connoisseur of wines. 

Hotel du Lion d'Or, Rue du Rhone, moderate prices, with 
cleanhness, attention, and desire to please. 

Hotel de France, Place Longemalle, near the Steamers and 
Dihgences, good, very reasonable, and anxious to satisfy. 

Pensions — 

^ Pension Ficard, Maison Eonzon, Grand Quai, next to * the Me- 
tropole,' corner house, facing the Jardin Anglais and Lake, capital 
position, and very good, and liberal. 

Pension Chappuis, Maison Calame, facing the Lake and Jardin 
Anglais, admirably situated, well kept, reasonable. 

Villa des Etrangers, Pension Haussener, Montbrillant, E. 7, close 
to the city ; Vv^ith agreeable garden and grounds, in view of Mt. 
Elanc ; cuisine, hberality, and attention, of the highest order. The 
Proprietor has been for many years in English famihes, and 
speaks all the languages. 

Pension Perret, 6 Rue Levrier, opposite the English Chm'ch. 
Satisfactory arrangements, with or mthout board. 

Houses of Business— 

Physicians — Dr. Lombard, 202 Grande Rue ; of high standing ; 
-studied in England; speaks the language. His work on *Les 
Climats des Montagues ' is valuable. 

— Dr. Seller, 46 Rue du Mont Elanc, distinguished. The dis- 
coverer of an important mode of treatment in diseases of the lungs, 
which he has most liberally made public. 

Unglish Medical 3£an—T)v, Metcalfe, M. R. C. S. and L. A. C. L., 
Guy's Hospital, etc., 2 Quai du Mont Elanc ; has a high reputa- 
tion for experience and skill. 

Oculist — Dr. Maunoir, 123 Rue des Chanoines, celebrated. 

Surgeon Dejitist — Dr. Vaucher, 26 Rue de la Cite ; of the first 
standing ; has practised in America. 

English Medicines, Homoeopathic Preparations, ^-c, — M^ Eastard, 
* Ancienne Pharmacie Le Royer and Tingry,' 49 Rue Basse des 
AUemands-dessous, long estabUshed, of the highest reputation. 

JEnglish Chemist — Geo. Eaker, 1 Place des Bergues, has genuine 
Saratoga water ; good Homoeopathic and Photographic prepara- 
tions, and sends Medicines, etc., to all parts. He is the only 
English Chemist in Switzerland, and well deserves patronage. 

Bureau de change^ (J-c. — M. G. Benamy, Place de la Petite Fusterie ; of established 
character. Every kind of exchange, etc., advantageously made. 



GENEVA. 



139 



Watches, Jewellery, Enamel-Paintings, etc. — The choice here is so varied, so 
beautiful, and cheaper than in England, that the opportunity of purchasing should 
not be lost. Avoid inferior Houses. A few of the very first-class are subjoined — • 

George Roch, 183 Rue du Rhone, has one of the most trust- worthy liouses. He 
manufactures on his own premises. 

M. Lang and Padoux, 171 Grand Quai. The Chronometers and Repeaters of this 
house are celebrated for excellence. The Enamelled paintings, Portraits, etc., are of 
the highest beauty. The Time-pieces for the Mace-course and the Singing-bird Boxes 
■deserve special note. All articles guaranteed. 

Henry Capt, 177 Rue du Rhone, a superb exposition, thoroughly reliable, fixed 
and marked prices. Correspondent of Aubert and Klaftenberger, 157 Regent St., 
London. 

Specialite for Presents, Bijouterie. Orfevrerie, Fancy-articles, Plate, #c. — 
Landry, *Maison Derriey,* 45 Rue des Ailemands-dessus, old established, of the first 
■character and reliabiUty. 

JRo7vland's ' Macassar,' Toilet-soaps, Brushes, Perfumery in general, English and 
' French — S. Viande and Co., 48 Rue des Allemands-dessus. Reasonable, fixt prices. 

Musical Boxes, of every description — Ducommun-Girod, 29 
Quai des Bergues, * au cinquieme ; ' a vast manufactory, of the first 
reputation, and ingenuity ; well worth inspection. 

Frecious Stones^ Diamonds, Pearls, Objects in enamel, set and 
unset Ornaments^ from the simplest to the most exquisitely elabor- 
ated designs — Grivaz, 18 Quai des Bergues. 

* Orfevrerie, Bijouterie,^ Flate, Fa^icy -articles, Specialite for Pre- 
sents — Noblet and Dolive, 35, Rue des Allemands-dessus, long 
established, first-rate, trust-worthy. 

Tailors and Clothiers — Blum, freres, * A la Ville de Paris,* 67, 
Rue du Rhone, ready-made articles and promptly to measure, of 
men and children's clothing, a vast assortment, excellent. 

Boots, Shoes, Goloshes, 8fc. — Zeiner and Bley, 176 Rue du 
Rhone, close to Hotel de I'Ecu, the best ; all kinds — for men, wo- 
men, and children. 

Perfumery, Brushes, Sponges, Tortoise-shell — Pfister, 62 Rue du 
Rhone, extremely good : also dresses and cuts Ladies' and Gen- 
tlemen's hair. 

English Cutlery, Fishing-materials, ^c. — the former from the 
best houses of Birmingham and Sheffield, the latter from. London 
— Marcillac, successor to Martin, 187 Place Bel Air. 

Saddles, Trunhs, Bags, Travelling-articles — Isenring, 171 l)is, 
Place du Lac, excellent : first-class workmanship, and reasonable 
prices. Repairs and exchanges made. 

Swiss Views, Costumes, Minerals, Wood and Ivory scidptures. 
Haps, and Guides — Charnaux, Maison des Trois Rois, Place Bel 
Air, near the Post, an admirable house. 

Cigars and Tobacco — Wistaz, Chateau Roj^al, 70 Rue de Corna- 
vin ; of curious old standing, decidedly the best. 

Beading-Rooms — Monroe, 1 Place des Bergues. English 
Books ; English Tea ; lists of houses to let, &c. 

Relief of Mont Blanc, in the Jardin Anglais : "an accurate, ad- 
I mirable model ; indispensable to a clear idea of * the Monarch of 
i Mountains.' Customary fee, 1 fr. for one person, fr. each for a 
! party. 



140 



GENEVA. 



Panorama of the Rigi Kalin — near the Botanic Garden. A representation of one 
of the loveliest riews in Switzerland. On the same plan, as natural, and as admirably 
executed as the celebrated one at Lucerne. 

Baths — Hot, 1 fr. ; Cold, I- fr. ; in four different quarters. 

But the true lovers of this luxury should seek the Bains cTArve ; 
strengthening, douche, plunge, shower ; well appointed ; for Ladies, 
and Gentlemen ; ^ fr., linen included. Special omnib. every half- 
hour, from Place de la Fusterie, fare ^ fr., drive I hr. 

Voitures—K(cllikeT, Aux Paquis, has the largest establishment, and good reputa' 
tion. Saddle-horses are kept by him. Carriages^ 2 horses, day, 25 fr. ; half-day, 18 
fr. He conveys to Chamouny in one day (same time as the Diligences), 3 persons, 
80 fr. ; 4 pers., 85 fr. ; 5 per.,'90 fr. All comprised. 

Transmission of Baggage to all places maybe best effected through Mr. Heritier,, 
Director of the Messageries Generales, 87 Eue du Ehone. 

Fiacres — On the Grand-Quai. Per hour, per horse, 2 fr., — 
3 are generally given for the 1st hour. 

Consuls reside, for England, the United States, etc. 
Passports should here be vised, if not before — 

1. For Chamouny, Savoy (France). 

2. For the Simplon, Piedmont, Italy (Sardinia) : those of the 
English Foreign-office are exempt. 

English Church. Sundays, 11a. m., 3 p. m. 

Situation — * By the blue rushing of the aiTowy Rhone : ' flat 
and unstriking at first, but grovdng charming on acquaintance. 

Manufact. watches ; 100,000 annually. A stringent supervision 
guards against discreditable workmanship. 

History — A confused series of dull broils constitute the whole, 
up to the Era of the Reformation. This was introduced by Farel 
in 1534, and paralysed Romanism here at once. John Calvin fol- 
lowed in 1536, and imposed a discipline upon the people of the 
most extraordinary strictness. His will was iron, and his word i 
was law. Geneva became the head-quarters of European Protes- | 
tantism, and the asylum of the persecuted elsewhere. A republic- j 
anism succeeded, which resisted all assaults. Ultimately the Pa- j 
risian * reign of terror' was re-enacted here in 1794, the Place de la 
Concorde being but exchanged for the Botanic Garden. The 
French Republic ' annexed' this to theirs in 1798; but in 1814 it 
was dissevered and joined to the general Swiss Confederation. 

Sights — 1. lie Jean Jacques Rousseau, centre of Bridge des 
Bergues. His statue by Pradier. Charming view of the Lake 
and Mt. Blanc. 

Thence, past the Post, and along the Corraterie, to 
2. Musee Rath : some good paintings — especially national sub- 
jects of Calame and Diday, Swiss. Free, Thursdays and Sundays^ 
from 1 1 till 3 o'clock ; at other times, 1 fr. per party. 



li 



GENEVA* 



141 



3. Tlie Grave of Calvin — the common earthen mound bearing 
merely (yet so, exceeding his ^ stern command') the initialed head- 
stone * J. C In the Cemetery of Plain Palais, A little beyond 
last ; to the r. 

The Junction of "Rhone and Arve can be reached by a foot-path 
20 min. fm'ther, in this direction. But the best Jirst-point of view 
is subjoined under * Short Circuits.* 

4. Botanic Garden, opposite Musee Rath — poor in specimens, 
but teiTible in historical associations — see * History * a'bove. 

At the further end, fine view from the Bastion du Pin, — still 
finer from La Treille, higher up, and close to the 

5. Hotel de Ville ; nothing of note. One of the ways to La 
Treille, aforesaid. Close to Cathedral and 

6. House where Rousseau was horn in 1712, Nos. 1 and 2 Grande 
Eue. This is the veritable one. The son of a Watchmaker, he 
spent his youth here. He professed Romanism at Turin, and 
turned Calvinist at Geneva ! His writings attracted such persecu- 
tion that he had to fly from place to place. Here they were burnt 
publicly by the Hangman. — Close to 

7. Musee d^Histoire Naturelle, 209 Grande Rue. Geological 
and Zoological specimens, principally. — Close to 

8. House where Calvin lived and died, from 1543 to 1564, No. 
122 Rue des Chanoines ; between preceding and 

9. Cathedral, St. Pierre, purest Byzantine, 1124 — disfigm-ed by 
a Corinthian porch, 1800 ! Where Calvin preached — and the 
municipal elections were till recently held ! 

The Concierge's lodge is at the side : fee, f fr. 

10. Library, Bibliotheque, behind the Cathedral ; founded by 
Hhe Prisoner of Chillon;' containing portraits, MSS., and auto- 
graphs, of many worthies of the Wars of the Reformation. Open 
from 11 to 1, and 2 to 4 p.m. 

The picture of Serve tus, a Spanish refugee condemned by Cal- 
vin for questioning the Trinity, is labelled * Burnt at Geneva to 
the honour and glory of God.' 

11. Penitentiary QVi. the silent system, a European model — nearer 
the lake than the last. Apply for order to the *Departement de 
rinterieur,' Hotel de Ville. 

12. Jar din Anglais, on the lake, a pretty promenade, at the end 
of the Grand Quai ; containing 

13. Relief of Mont Blanc, already mentioned : and beyond, 

14. * Pierres du Niton^ two blocks of granite, in the Lake, be- 
lieved to have been brought down on extinct glaciers — and to 
have been used by the Romans for sacrificing to Neptune. 

15. Alleged House of Rousseau^ s birth, with inscription on the 
exterior — No. 60 Rue Rousseau. It was his grandfather's. 

Short Circuits— On the Swiss side of the Rhone. (Maps, p. 
137, 144.) 



142 



GENEVA. 



1. * Za Jonction^ Past the R. C. Church : Lyons road for 20 
min. to where it bifurcates (finger-post • chemin d'Aire ') ; 1. road 
for 5 min. to 2nd gate on the 1. ; through it. and past the ^illa to 
platform overhanging the Confluence of the Rhone and Arve, their 
currents rushing together, but not minghng for miles — most pic- 
turesque. Carriage there and back, 1^ hr. 

2. ' Les Delices,^ a villa of Voltaire's, may be taken in passing. 

3. The cedars of Petit Saconjiex ^h^i^t TOO ft. girth, 12 ft., con- i 
sidered the finest in Europe, in the Campagne Bemiin, J hr. r. of 

R. C. Church. ^ I 

4. Campagne Bartoloni, the chief villa of the environs. ' 

5. By Aux Crets, magnificent views of Mt. Blanc, Petit Sacon- i 
nex, Grand Saconnex, Pregnj^jto Chambesy ; return by the Route 

de Suisse, stopping at Villa Bartoloni; a delicious drive of 2^ hrs. 

On the Savoy side. Past the Jardin Anglais, and ^ Eaux Vives ' 
suburb, to — 1. Bois de Front en ex, public walks with lovely views. 
2. Tour de Tronchin, finely situated. 3. Campagne Dioduti, where 
Byron lived in 1816. 4. Montalegre, a restaurant for holidays. — 
To the Jardin Anglais again. The whole, 3 hrs.' walk. 

Views of Mont Blanc — On the Swiss side. 1. From the ^ Isle 
jRousseau/ close to the Bridge des Bergues. 2. From betweeii the 
Little and Great Saconnex, on the carriage-rd. to Fernex, 3 miles. i 

On the Savoy side. From the Saleve, Carriage-rd. to Veyi'ier, ^ 
4| mis. : steep path up, 1 hr. to Monetier : whence to the Little 
Saleve, 2800 ft., |- hr., fine view— or to the Great Saleve, 4300 ft., 
\h hr., incomparably finer. The return may be varied, by | 
Carriage-rd. throughout to Monetier, by Mornex and Chene, 8 mis. 

Excursions — 1. To Fernex, 5 mis., where Voltaire lived, 

' Built God a church, and laugh' d His word to scorn ' — ■ 

The house has been metamorphosed; urn in salon, containing 
his heart : garden where he dictated. And the church with its 
vain inscription, 'Deo erexit Voltaire' (Voltaire has huilt this to 
God). Omnibus hourly from the Place Cornavin, h fi'. 

2. To the Fort de VEcluse, 16 mis., on the road between Geneva 
and Lyons, p. 16. Very grand. Rail to Collonges station, f hr. 
Thence, \ hr.'s walk. 

3. To "the Perte du Rhone, 8 mis. farther : rail, \ hr. more, to 
Bellegarde station. Interesting. Described fully, p. 16. 

4. To the Bridge of La Caille, highly pictui'esque. Annecy-rd., 
3 hrs. drive. Dils. daily, p. 174. 

5. Ascent of the Bole, splendid view. Steam or rail to Celigny, 
J hr. ; voit. to Grassier, 3 mis., ^ hr. ; plain foot-path up, 3 hrs. 

• Or, by Nyon, pages 14, 145." (See Map, p. 144.) 

6. To the' Lac de Joux, Val Orhe, etc., p. 132. 

7. I-jaJce of Geneva^ Martigmj, Charaowiij — 

This circuit may be made in 3 days— steam to Villeneuve, rail 
and drive to Martigny, and sleep : through Tete Noire to Cha- 
mounyj'and sleep: dil. to Geneva.—See next and following sects. 



GENEVA. 



143 



The Valley of Sixt. 



Highly romantic. Little known. See Plan, p. 167. 
Geneva to Sixt, and vice versa, dil., daily at 6 a.m., in 6 hrs. ; coupe, 16 fr. ; 
banq., 14 fr. Messageries Generales, 87 Rue du RhOne, Geneva. 

From Geneva, 1200 ft., same road as to Chamouny, passing 

4t miles. Annemasse (Passport for Savoy), see p. 167. 

12 mis. St. Jeoire, 1900 ft.— Pop. 1800. Inn. 

A cross-rd., ri^ht, leads to Bonneville, 6 mis., on the route between Geneva 
and Chamouny, p. 167. 

The gorge narrov/s, and the road is cut in the rock, overhangi.ng 
the torrent of the Giltre, and opening into a lovely valley. 
7 mis. Taninges, 2200 ft.— Pop. 3300. Inns, 

A cross-rd., right, leads to Cluses, 5 mis., on the route between Geneva 
and Chamouny, p. 168.— It passes over the Col de Chatillon, fine view of 
surroundins: mountains. At Chatillon, schistous rocks evolve inflammable 
gas, which ingenious Tourists frequently light, and cook omelets by ! 

To Morzine, char-rd., left, 8 mis., (thence continued to Thonon^ on the Lake 

of Geneva,) p. 152. 

. The Buet's cupola of eternal snow, 10,000 ft., overtops every- 
thing in advance. The Church and ruined Chateau of Verchet,. 
2600 ft., form a telling picture. 

7 mis. Samoens, 2300 ft. — Pop. 4000. Lms. 

View from the Chapel of the Chateau, 1 hr. Cascade of the 

Nant-Dent, 700 ft. 

To Morzine, 16 mis., over the Col de Jour-plane, 6090 ft., severe, p. 152. 
See also 'Taninges' above. 

A narrow defile onward. The rd. ascends the rocks of the 
* Tines ' — fine view thence, of plain, mountains, and cascades. 

4 mis. Sixt, 2500 ft.— Pop. 700. Lms, 

Plence various rough picturesque mountain excursions — 
- Up the Benets, ^ hr. Pine view. 

Up the Montagne de Forte, 2 hrs. Finer view. 

To the Fer-a-Chevat, the ' Horse-shoe,' char-rd., if hr., (4|- mis.) 
A vast semi-circle of sombre precipices capped usually with snow, 
whence descend in early summer multitudes of foaming cascades — 
pictorial and savage. A shot fired here awakens echoes like 
thunder. 

The Fond de ta Combe, 3300ft., l\ hr. (4i mls.) further, closes the 

Valley. Ya,rious rugged foot-paths lead over its extreme heights 

to Champery, p. 154, the Eau Noire gorge, Tete Noire, and Mar- 

tigny, p. 159, etc. 

Ascent of the Buet, 10,000 ft., 7 hrs. up from Sixt, 5 hrs. down, see p. 159, 170 
To Serv'oz, on tlie route between Geneva and Chamouny, p. 170, over the Col 
d'Anterne, 7000 ft., horse-path, 9 hrs., severe, guide essential. 



Koutes from Geneva. 



To Lyons, rail, 5 hrs., p. 15. 
JO Chamberji and Turin, p. 174. 
To Bienne, Berne, Basle, Lucerne, 



Zilrich, by ' Mor-res,' see d. 145. 
To Chamouny, one day, p. 167. 



dil. and rail, a day and half, p. 14. 

by Morges, Yverdon, etc., p.ll 

by rail throughout, Lyons, Ma. 



To Paris—by Pontarher and Dole, 



con,''Uijon, 16 hrs., p. 15. 



144 



LAKE OF GENEV.i. 



To Italy. 

1. By the Siviplon: thus. Ist^day — Geneva, steam to Villeneuve (Swiss) or 
Bouveret (Savoy), 4 hrs. ; rail to Sion, 1^- hr. ; dil. to Brieg, 6 hrs. 2nd day — Briejr, 
dil. to Domod'Ossola, 11 hrs. Zrd day — Dorao d'Ossola to Arena, dil., 7 hrs.; whence 
rail to Milan, Genoa, or Turin. Given fully in the two following sections. 

2. By the Mont Cenis : thus. 1st day — Geneva, rail to Modane, etc. 2nd day — 
Dil. to Turin. Given fully, p. 174. 

3. By Lyonst Marseillesy Nice^ Corniche Pass, &c. Given fully, p. 15» 17, 20.. 



LY. THE LAKE OF GENEVA. 
Eoute to Italy. See close of preceding section. 

H.ow-boats — Per hour : 1 boatman, 2 fr. : 2 boatmen, 3 fr. 

Scenery — Tame at the Geneva end; incomparably majestic at 
the Villeneuve end. * Mon lac est le premier ' — Voltaire : but 
v/ould he have said so, had it not been his ? 

*Lake Leman,' ^Lemanus' of the Romans. Length, 56 mis.; 
breadth, 8 mis. ; depth, 300— GOO ft. Different in colour from the 
other Swiss Lakes, being blue instead of green : Rousseau terms 
this * the azm-ed crystal : ' Sir H. Davy ascribes it to iodine. Fish 
— 21 species : the best, the * feras.' Extraordinary phenomenon 
— the ' Seiches ; ' sudden elevation and subsidence of the water, 
in ~ hr., from supposed unequal temperature and atmospheric 
pressure . 

One side is Swiss, the other Savoyard. Post-rds. on each, never 
far from the shore, unite at St. Maurice. The Swiss side thither, 
and the Savoy side back, form an interesting circuit. 



To Paris, by Pole 
Les I Rousses 



To Yverdon 



P Lausanne 



^ „ ^ ^ Pleiades 

^oNyon oRolle oMorges oOuchy oVevey^ KQblis 

S ^^^.^s..^ r..^.^ — s o\Clarens Glion 

B I \ o AMontreux 

Villeneuve 

Aigle 




/ y oThononoAmphionoEviaiioSt.Gine:olph/ 
Station //o/^-^^ ^ ^ 



Geneva 



Post-road 



Monthey o— — — 
St. MauricQ 



SWISS SIDE, FROM GENEVA. POST-ROAD. DIL. 

Bail from Geneva to Lausanne, along the Lake, quicker than the Steamers, I' 
and much less picturesque. 

Steamers run close along. Between Geneva and Villeneuve, 4 hrs, 
Geneva, preceding section, 1200 ft. 
8 mis. I hr. rail (| hr. steam.) Coppet— Pop. 600. 



LAUSANNE. 



145 



The Chateau, now the Due de Broghe*s, was the last retreat of 
Necker, Louis XIV's Minister of Finance, and the many-years' 
sojourn of his daughter, Mme. de Stael. 

7 nils. I hr. rail. (| hr. steam.) Nyon — Pop. 2500. For the 
Dole, p. 14, 142. 

7 mis. J hr. rail. (J hr. steam.) B^olle-^For the Val Orbe, p. 132. 

8 mis. \ hr. rail. (J hr. steam.) Merges — Pop. 2S00. 

Hotel des Alpes, beautifully situated on the Lake, magnificent 
panorama of the Savoy Mountains, new, clean, very comfortable, 
and excellent Pension. 

From Morges, Mt. Blanc is most completely visible, surpass- 
ingly lovely. — Good schools. — Old ruin, Chateau de Yuiflens, 1., 
I hr.'s walk. 

To Vverdon, l.Tir., rail, p. 132; on to Neuchdtel and Bienne, S hrs. Thence 
— to Berne, 2^ hrs. ; — to Basle, ^hrs. ; — to Lucerne^^^ hrs. ; — to Zurich, 4^ hrs. 
To Paris, rail and dil., p. 14. 

8 mis. I hr. rail, (f hr. steam.) Oucliy, 1200 ft.-— the port of 
Lausanne. 

Hotel de l'Anche, extremely good, a picturesque and quiet 
resting-place, and reasonable Pension. Near the Enghsh Chapel, 

Byron's * Prisoner of Chillon ' was written in it. 

Omnibus in connection with the steamers, ~ fr., between Ouchy 
and Lausanne, \ hr.'s drive. 

Half-way between Ouchy and Lausanne is the Eailway Station. 

Lausanne, 1750 ft.— Pop. 16,000 Prot, 1000 R. C. 

Hotel Gibbon, enlarged, re-furnished and arranged; experienced 
Proprietor ; a delightful house, thoroughly comfortable ; the love- 
liest views on the Lake and Alps. Good society, and Pension at a 
moderate rate for the wdnter. 

Hotel Richemont, new, beautifully situated in its own grounds 
over-looking the Lake and Savoy- Alps, highly reported of, reason- 
able prices. 

Hotel dtj Grand Pont, central, established, good ; with very 
moderate prices. 

Hotel des Alpes, close to the Railway-station, magnificent 
view, most convenient, unpretending, good, and very moderate. 

Hotel Bellevue, quiet and excellent, charming view. Can be 
thoroughly recommended. 

Pensions — 

De la Harpe, 7 Grand Chene. Well placed, admirably kept, 
charming view. The Proprietor is a Vaudois Minister. 

Souville, in its own grounds, full of Enghsh comfort, great liber- 
ality of treatment, quiet, and reasonable. 

Houses of Business — 

Physicians — Dr. Depierre, Place Pepinet, especially skilful in 
diseases of children. 

Dr. Mathey, M. D. and Surg., specially celebrated as Ac- 
coucheur. 



146 



LAUS.IXXK 



Dr. Burnier, fils, clever in general practice, speaks English, 

Oculist — Dr. Eecordon ; of distinguished talent, 

Surgeon-Dentists — the following- may be relied upon, as having practised many- 
years with the higliest character — 

Messrs. H. & J. Bauverd (speak English). 

M. H. Vulliemin, 9 Place St. Francois (understands English). 

Apothecary — Doebele, * Ancienne Pharmacie Bischofi,' 4 Rue de 
Bourg. Good and ti'ust-worthy. Has all the ordinary Enghsli 
Medicines, and Homoeopathic preparations. 

Bazar Vaudois — Place St. Francois, a vast and splendid assort- 
ment of almost everything, for Travel or Taste. One of the first 
in Europe, of the highest character, and well worth a ^dsit. Fixt 
and invariable prices. 

Clothiers^ Tailors — Blum, freres, ' A la Yille de Paris.' Clothes 
ready-made, and promptly to measui^e. Thoroughly recommend- 
able. 

Old Books at Martignier and Chavannes*, 1 Rue de Bourg. 

English Reading-room, Circulating Library, Stationery in general — Mad. 
Haubeureiser, Rue de Bourg, cannot be too strongly recommended. Books sent 
cheaply to all parts. Geneva, Neuchatel, Yevey, YiLeneuve, Bex, etc. 

Swiss Enihroidery, Muslin, Curtains, ^-c. — S. Eaillettaz, 34 Rue de Bourg. A 
house of the first-class and integrity. 

Horlogerie — Schaffner-Franz, 7 *Rue St. Pierre, corner house, is recommended for 
sterling work and reasonable prices. JFatches can be bought here for at least a third 
lower than at Geneva, from the lower price of labour, rent, etc. 

Ladies' Paris Bcots and Shoes, Gloves, §-c. — Schaffner-Franz, 6 Rue St. Pierre/ 
is the best house. 

Cigars — Luginbiihl, near the Faucon, has the best. 

English Chapel half-way between Lausanne and Ouchy. 

In the garden of'tiie Gibbon,' the great Historian of Rome 
concluded his ' History.' The City has a noble appearance, superb 
prospect, and fresh dry ah. Above the lake, 55'J ft. 

Sights — Distances estimated from the Post. 

Yrcrdoii-road Slreets and ronds r.rc marked tliiis--— • 

Belles Heches j fcignal 
Asyliim for the Eiiiid □ | Cathedral ^ ^ Institution p 

C4rand Pont ! Bazar Yaudois I P. CjCaroline / 

Hotel Grand Pont □ , □ l2^1£^£22E;l\ Berne/.roao 

1 Place St. Prancols , v / 

Geneva-road P. de la Harpe; DH. Gibbon Post g; Hotel \ / 

Montbenon Belleviie Yevey-road 

Pvailwav | 

- -^^1 LAUSANNE. 

Station \ )J'^English niapel 

Lahe of Geneva Onchy 

1. Ilonthenon, 1., 5 minutes. Geneva-road. Popular lounge, 
public amusements, etc. 

2. Grand Pont, o min. Central view of the city. 

3. Cathedral, 20 min., the grandest Gothic in Switzerland, 1275. 
Ascent, 160 steps:, the Sacristan lives at the foot. Its nave con- 



VEYEY. 147 

tains 20 massive columns ; the two galleries above, innumerable 
smaller ones ; the whole edifice, more than a thousand. The choir, 
principal entrance, and south portal, are of the highest merit. 
Tombs — Mrs. Stratford Canning's, 1818, wife of the English Am- 
bassador : St. Bernard's, etc., p. 158. 

4. The Signal, r., 3 mis. From the Cathedral, past the Castle, 
through the Faubourg de la Barre 1., past the Petit Chateau, first 
foot-path to the r., past I'Hermitage, and up the oak-shaded side 
of the Sauvabelin, to the top — whence a surprising extent of moun- 
tain-filled horizon ; but Mont Blanc not visible. 

Also, from the Petit Chateau, a new carriage-rd. continues the 
whole way to the top. 

5. The ^Belles Roches^ L, 2 mis. Yverdon-road. To the r. of 
which, an enchanting view over the Lake to Mont Blanc. 

6. Asylum for the Blind ; admirably ordered ; founded by an 
Englishman (Mr. Haldimand) living in the vicinity. 

7. English Cemetery, r., 2 mis. on Berne-road. Not worth 
visiting. 

8. Institution for delicate Children in mind or body. Chateau de 
Vennes, Berne rd. Conducted by M. Blumer, of high character. 
Deeply interesting, deserving of attention and support. Superb 
view. 

ExcuRSioiss — 1. To Amphion, JSvian, 8fc., opposite side of the 
Lake, see p. 148, 152.. 
2. To the Lac de Joux and Val Orhe, most picturesque, p. 132. 

To Yverdon, Neuchdtel, Bienne^ Ber?ie, Basle, Lucerne, Zurich, rail as from 

' Marges,' see page 145. 
To Frihourg and Berne — by Yverdon, see above; — by Oron, p. 130. 
To Paris, by Pontarlier and Dole, p. 13. 
To Veveij, omnibus, several times a-day, in 21irs. 

From Lausanne onv/ard, the route * blends all beauties.' The 
extremes of the majestic and the lovely combine. The Valaisian 
Alps overhang in the distance the locale of the 'Nouvelle Heloise, 

12 mis. (1 hr. steam.) Vevey-— Pop. 4500 Prot., 500 R. C. 

Hotel Monnet, with a high 
reputation, well deserved. Ad- 
vantageous arrangements in 
case of prolonged stay. A de- 
lightful house. Garden- views 
magnificent. 

Hotel du Lac, new, good, 
and economical. Pension ad- 
vantageously for the winter. 
•Garden with lovely view on the Lake. 

Hotel des Trols Rols, comfortable, reasonable, and recom- 
mendable. 

o 




148 VEYEY. 

Pensions — 

Dardel, at ' La Tour,' just outside the town, admirably situated^, 
reasonable, excellent. The Proprietor is a Yaudois Minister. 
Houses of Business — 

Physicians of eminence — 

—Dr. Curchod, Member of the Council of Health ; speaks English ; and is a 
distinguished opinion on the ' Grape-cure,' which he has laboriously investigated^ 
and ably written upon. 

— Dr. Guisan, Physician and Surgeon, 14 Rue du Panorama, is clever, attentive^ 
and amiable, and speaks English. 

Surgeon-Dentist — M. Bollinger, No. 51 Grande Place. Highly 
skilful. 

English Dispensary — Mayor, opposite Hotel Monnet, trusty and 
excellent, speaks English. 

Tailors and Clothiers — Blum, freres, *A la Yille de Paris,' re- 
commendable. 

Charmingly situated. Wine — Lavaux. 

Eng. Ch. Service, at St. Clair, on Sundays, 11 a.m., 3f p.m. 

To the 1. of the steamers' landing, M. Couvi'eu's Chateau, fine 
garden of tropical plants, open Thurs., Fri., Sun., 10 till 12 a.m. 
at other times, gardener 1 fr. 

Sights — 1. Tombs of Broiighton and Ludlow^ two of Charles I's 
sentencers to death. Inside the Church of St. Martin. 

2. Festival of the Vignerons — a glorification of the Vintage,, 
mythological costumes, &c. — It attracts thousands of visitors, but 
is kept irregularly. 

Excursions — To the Fle'iades^ KiiUis, Glion, Rochers de Naye^ 
Chillonj ^c.j see page 150. 



General Excursion 
Equally well made from Yevey, Clarens, Montreux, or Villeneuver 

To Sf. Gingolph, p. 153, boat across the lake, 2 brs,, 2 rowers, 10 frs. Amplilon, 
Evian, Meillerie, the Grotto, Cornettes, may be visited. Then, the Savoy rail to St. 
Maurice; and the Swiss rail back by Villeneuve. A charming little ' trip.' 

Over the DentAe Jaman into the Simmenthal, horse-path, p. 124. 
To Thun, through the Simmenthal, dil., p. 122. 

To Fribourq and Berne — by Lausanne and Yverdon, p. 147, 132 ; bv Oron, p. 

130 ;— by liulle, p. 124, 130. 
To Lausanne, omnibus, several times a-day, in 2 hrs. 
To Villeneuve, omnibus, several times a-day, in 1.^^ hr., 1 fr. 

Pedestrians should take the pretty shaded path along the hill- 
side, above the walled and dusty road. 

* Go to Vevey, visit the country, examine the sites, wander by 
the lake, and say if Nature has not made this region for a Julie, 
a Claire, a St. Preux.' — Rousseau's 'Confessions.' 



LAKE OF GENEYA — SWISS SIDE. 



149 



3 mis. hr. steam.) Clarens, half-way from Vevey to Chillon — 

' Birth-place of deep Love ! 
Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought ; 
Thy trees take root in Love ; the snows above 
The very Glaciers have his colours * caught, 
And sunset into rose-hues sees them wrought '—Byron. 

Pension Pehret, fine view, admirable, and reasonable. The 
Proprietress is English. 

This Pension has been numerously and strongly recommended. 
Here Nature spreads a sanctuary for the wearied Heart and Love 
has ^rear'd a throne' — Mais^il faut vivre! so the whole district 
swarms with P^whns from hence to Villeneuve. 

A clump of trees to the 1. was the ' Bosquet de Julie ' — the * new 
|| Eloisa's resort : delicious vistas from it. 

ji L'Ermitage (Pension Collmann), between Clarens and Yernex, 
: on the Lake, is delightfully situated, nev/, spacious, quiet, well 
I suited for families; has Baths, Boats, Winter-garden, and many 
other ' agremens.^ 
I ml. (— ^ St.) Vernex — 

Hotel du Cygne, charmingly placed, and very good. 
Pension Lorius is small but comfortable, of good reputation, 
and very moderate charges. English is spoken. 

Over the Dent de Jaman into the Simmenthal, horse-path, p. 124. 

I- ml. (5 min. steam.) Montreux — Pop. 2200. 

Pension Yisinand, long established, trust- worthy, excellent: 
celebrated for its ' table.' Winter-garden, and sheltered walk. A 
small separate villa apart. Advantageous terms. 

Pension Vautiek, excellent, proverbial for its ^ society,' liber- 
ality, and kindness. 

Pension de Belle Vue, Maison Depallens, magnificently situ- 
ated, large, comfortable, reasonable. 

Pension Henchoz, of high character and moderate prices. 

There is regular English Church-service at Montreux. 

Famous for its warm winter aspect, and its cool matrimonial 
one. — 'This Parish has the honour of being cited to all Europe as 
an edifying example of sagesse on the great scale — of moral 
restraint by a whole population upon their own over-multiplica- 
tion.' Its proportion of births is 1 to 46: the rest of Switzer- 
land is as England, 1 to 28. 'Evitant avec un soin extreme de 
rendre leur mariage plus fecond que leur Industrie' — Danoyer. 
Its Pastor thinks that 'hard work and exemption from destitution, 
and exemption also from indulgence independent of work, have 
raised among his flock a prudence which postpones mamage 
until a family can be supported' — Laing's 'Notes.' Judicent peri- 
ttores. 



* — • celestial rosy red, love's proper hue ' — Pope. 

o 2 



150 



MONTREUX — CHILLOX. 



Ascent of the JCiibh's, 2000 ft., fine vievr : easy, horse-path, 1^ hr. Route— up the 
1. side of the Jaman valley behind Montreux. 

Ascent of the Pleiades, 4000 ft., fine view: horse-path, 3| hrs. Route — | hr., 
Charney. 1 hr., Chaulin. \\ hr., Baths of the Alliaz, 3000 ft. (char-rd. hence down to 
Yevey.) | hr., Pleiades. 

Over the Dent de Jaman, into the Siinmenthal, road past Glion, viz. 

Above jMontreux, carriage -rd. past the Church, f hr., to 

Glion, 3000 ft. (the local measurement gives 2200 ft. — it is not 
correct.) Magnificent air and \dew. 

Hotel Righi-Vaudois, finely placed, a superb establishment, 
thoroughly well kept. Fension advantageously. 

Hotel *^axd Pension des Ermaillis (Talon's), close to the 
Righi-Vaudois, unpretending but good, clean, and inexpensive. 

Hotel du Midi, and Fension, recommended to economists as 
very moderate and good. 

To the Rochers de Naye, 4 hrs., 6000 ft., glorious view, six lakes visible. 
Over the Dent de Jaman, into the Simmenthal, p. 124. 

1 ml. (— St.) Territet— 

Hotel des Alpes, excellent, attentive, reasonable. Fine vievv'. 
Baths. Grape-cure. Fensio?i at all times. Much frequented by 
English. 

Pension de l'Abei, summer and \vinter, comfortable, and moder- 
ate. Pecuhar facilities for education are found in this house. 

1 ml. ( — st.) Veyteaux — embosomed in fohage. 

Pension Masson-Matter, in the highest position of the village, 
with magnificent view, is very quiet, comfortable, and moderate. 
Garden, Walks, ' Grape-cure,' etc. 

Pension Masson-Wuicholt), capital house, good table, reason- 
able terms, and great attention. 

i ml. ( — St.) Castle of CMllon — washed bv the lake, here 
312 ft. deep; built in 830; fortified in 1248 by the Dues of 
Savoy; stormed by the Genevese at the Reformation, and eman- 
cipated from the Savoy yoke ; now a cantonal arsenal. It amply 
repays exploration: above, the feudal bed-rooms, hall of the 
knights, &c. : below, the rock-hewn dungeons — that in which some 
thousands of Jews were sentenced and shot, living, through its 
aperture into the lake ; and that in which the Prior Bonnivard 
was chained, for hostility to the Ducal sway, for six years, 

' Until his verj' steps have left a trace 
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod.' — Byron. 

The storming liberated him, and he died, long after, at Geneva, 

* The little isle, 
"SMiich in his very face did smile,* 

with its three acacias, is nearer to Yilleneuve. 

i ml. further. Hotel Byron, admirable, spacious, in a lovely 

positio"n. Fension, summer and winter. Grape-cure, from Sept. 

Ilegular English Church-ser^^ce. 

Excursions— /o St. Ghigolph, Kiihlis, Pleiades, Glion, Rochers de Naye, Den^ 
de Jaman, SfC, see above. 

The curve of the lake here resembles the Bay of Naples, Chillon 



T 

i 

ij 



j LAKE OF GENEVA — SWISS SIDE. I5h 

11 

i representing Castel-Nuovo. Here Rousseau's Julie plunged in, to 

I save her child, and caught her death-chill. And to this spot ap- 
plies Byron's — 

j * Where the swift Ehone cleaves his way between 

|i Heights which appear as lovers who have' parted.* 

I f ml. (J lir. steam.) Villeneuve— Pop. 1600. 

I Wine — Yvorne. 

I Here the Steamers land, close to the Railway-station. 

I Here the lake terminates. 

■ To Vevey, omnibus, 7 a.m., 7 p.m., 1^ hr., 1 fr. 

!; To St. Maurice (for Martigny, Chamouny, Gemmi Pass, Zermatt, Milan), rail 

' on : as follows. 



j The valley of the Rhone from Yilleneuve to Martigny is of the 
i very gi'andest order of scenery. The Editors who say otherwise 
I must have been asleej) in passing. It ought to be walked or 
j voitured. 

' Sit on the 7\ to before the Bridge of St. Maurice, 

j i hr. rail. 7 mis. (2.i st.j Aigle— Pop. 2600. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, and Pensio7i (4 fr.), well placed, 
comfortable, attentive, studious to please. Grape-cure. 

To Chateau d' CEx, by the Vallees des Ormonts, horse-path, 20 mis., p. 123. 

I i hr. rail. 6 mis. (2 st.) Bex— Pop. 3000. 

i Hotel des Bains, and Pension, charmingly situated, v/ell kept, 

; and very reasonable. Baths, and Grape-cure. 

Hotel de l'Union, and Fensiofi, excellent situation and house, 
and extremely moderate. Baths, and Grape-cure. 

Pension de Crochet, outside the village, a fine house, admirably 
placed, carefully kept, moderate prices. Baths. Grapes. 

Pension de Mont-Chalet, excellent ; quiet country situation. 
The Proprietress has been connected with high English families. 

Bex is the place for eating grapes (the ' cure' occupies a month), 
drinking goats' milk, and bathing in salt-water. Charming walks. 
English Church-service, Sundays. 

Excursion — To the Salt-mi7ies of Bevieux and Devejis, 3 mis., 1. 
Carriage-rd. Picturesque. The former, ^Fondement,' con- 
tains a maze of galleries ; the latter, the ' Bouillet,' 730 steps 
lower, has a gallery 7000 ft. long, with one excavation of 80 
ft. diam., undisfigured by a single pillar. Advice — Enter at 
Bevieux (the further and higher of the two), descend, and exit 
at Devens. Time required — half a day ; guide, 5 fr. 
Cross Route—- To Sion, further on, p. 160. DiaUerets Pass. 
(Better made inversely, unless the St. Maurice Bridge-scene 
be first secured, its whole effect being from this side.) 
I Unhackneyed, majestic, of high geological interest. Three 

i peaks of the Diablerets, 10,000 ft., fell down, with immense 

I destruction, in 1714 and 1749: two remain, preparing to fol- 



152 



L.*lE:E of GENEVA— SAYOY SIDE. 



low. Limestone, on top ; shale, percolated by water, below. 

Horse-path. 12 hrs. Chalets all along : no eWs. 

From Bex, To Bevieux, as above, ^ hr. Carriage-rd. con- 
tinued to Grion, 2 hrs. To Anzeindaz, |- hr. To the Col de 
Cheville, 6800 ft., 1 hr. Here the destruction appears. To 
the Simplon high-rd., at the Bridge of the Morge, 5 lirs. To 
Sion, 1 hr. 

From Sion. To the Col, 7 hrs. To Bex, 5 hrs. 

The road contracts : the snow-topped Dent du Midi r., and Dent 
de Morcles 1., approach their feet: the Rhone and the road are 
scarcely forced into the space between : and finally the latter 
crosses suddenly the former at a right angle, by a one-arched biidge, 
from which a view opens up truly stupendous — and one of the 
most perfect pictures in the world. (*S^/^ o/i the left.) 

2\ mis. (J St.) St. Maurice — see below : junction of the post-rd. 
and rail along the Swiss side of the lake, with the following. 



SAVOY SIDE, FROM GENEVA. POST-ROAD. DIL. 
Between Geneva and Bouveret, dils. to and fro dail}^ in 6 lirs. Fare — S fr. 25 c. 
Steamers throughout, twice-a-day, special, in 4 hrs. 

Rail from Bouveret to St. Maurice, | hr. — to]Martigny, 1:^ hr. — to Sion, 1| hr. 

The Steamers coasting the Swiss side do not pass suHiciently 

near to give any idea of this side. 

The upper portion of it, from Amphion to St. Maurice, is v>'ell 

v7orth being visited by voiture or on foot. It is rich and pic- j 

turesque. \ 
Geneva, preceding section, 1200 ft. j 
2 mis. (f stund.) Colog'ny — ! 
Between this and the lake, the Villa Diodati, inhabited by 1 

Byron in 1816: his ' Childe Harold,' Canto iii, composed there. j 
7\ mis. (2| St.) Bovaine. Passnort for Savov (France). j 
9 mis. (3 St.) Thonon, on the lake— Pop. 3000. j 
Hotel de l'Europe, very far fi'om good. 1 
Residence of the Dues of Savoy in olden time ; but no vestige 1 

of this remaining. | 
Cross Route — To Chamouiiy by Servoz — 2 days. Fine, but ' 
difficult. 

Char-rd. r. to St. Jean d'Aulps, 2500 ft., 18 m\^.—Inn. \ 
Horse-path thence by Montriond, Morzine, and Col de Jour- i 
plane, 6000 ft., to Samoens, 16 mis., p. 143, j 

From Samoes, ncar.-rd. to Sixt, horse-path over the Col j 
d'Anterne, 7000 ft., to Servoz, at the entrance to the Vale of 
Chamouny, 10 hrs.' good walking. Guide needless to Sixt, 
essential to Servoz. 

From Sixt to Geneva, dil. daily, at 6 a.m., in 6 hrs., p. 143. 
• A\ mis. (1^ St.) Amphion, ' coquettement perche sur Teau' — 
Hotel and Casino, a new, superb, unique Pension, in beautiful 



AMPHION — ^EVIAN. 



153 



I grounds. Powerful tonic spring, iron and carbonic gas. Worth visit- 
\ ing for Curiosity, Pleasure, or Health. Pretty Excursions as from 
U ml. (I St.) Bvian— Pop. 3000. 

Hotel des Baixs, a vast new Hotel, in one of the most un- 
rivalled positions, viev/ from Chillon to Geneva ; under English 
, direction ; it contains the Springs (abundant 7iew source just dis- 
I covered). Excellent table. Handsome garden. Balls, Con- 
-certs, etc. 

Hotel du Nord, simple, clean ; good * cuisine.' View of the 
Lake ?md Alps. Fejision on very advantageous terms. 
; Hotel de Fiiance, extremely good, quiet, reliable ; capital cui- 
I sine and wine ; Hbrary of 2000 vols. Pension at half-price, from 
j| Sep. 15. 

" Charmingly situated on the lake. Alcaline springs of great 
efficacy in disorders of the digestion, Uver, kidneys, nerves, etc. 

Excursions — 1. Up the Valley of the Dmnse, 2 hrs. Ass, 3 fr. 

2. To Larrinffe, IJ hr. View^ of ISIont Blanc. 

3. To Allinges, fine ruined chateau, 2 hrs.* drive ; 1 horse, 
10 fr. 

4. Up the Bent cfOche, 8000 ft., 6 hrs., severe. Grand view. 
Lausanne, Vevey, Chillon, Yilleneuve, etc., are most pictur- 
esquely visible across the Lake from this to its termination. 

6 mis. (2 St.) 'Meillerie's immortal steep' — which ran down 
straight to the water formerl}', but was blasted, by Napoleon's 
order, for the Siraplon roadway. 

Here the Lovers of the ^Nouvelle Heloise' took refuge from a 
storm. Here Heloise's despairing lover lodged, to he in sight of 
ivhere she dwelt on the opposite shore. Here Byron and Shelley's 
boat was driven in by a tempest in 1816. 
6 mis. (2 St.) St. Gingolpli— Pop. 1300. 
Hotel. 

Savoy frontier. Passport for France, in going towards Geneva. 
Excursions — 1. To the Grotto ^Viviers,'' by row-boat, ~ hr., 1 fr. 

2. Up the Gorge of the Morge — the stream separating Savoy 
fi'om the Valais ; If hr.'s walk, very striking : leading round to 
Port Valais, on the high-road again. 

3. Up the Bent d'Oche, 8000 ft., horse-path, 4 hrs. Grand view. 
Guide, 10 fr. 

Boat across the Lake, 2 rowers— Vevey ^(^ fr.— Clarens, 3fontreux, Chillon 
or Villeneuve, 10 fr. • 

3 mis. (1 st.) Bouveret — 

Landing-place of the Steamers. Here the lake terminates. 

Rail on to St. Maurice, Martigny, Sion, etc. 
From hence to St. Maurice, the outlines of the Mountains of 
the opposite (the Villeneuve) side of the Rhone-VaUcy are inde- 
scribably fine. Their effect is finest in descending from St. Mau- 
rice (it is worth driving) to Bouveret. 



154 



LAKE OP GENEVA — SAVOY SIDE. 



5 min. rail. 1 ml. (f st.) Port Yalais, see * St. Gingolph,' al)Ove. 

5 min. rail. 1 ml. (f st.). Porte du Cex. — Cross-rd. to Roche 
station (3 mis.) — for Yilleneuve 1., or Aigle r., either 5 mis., on the 
post-rd. and rail of the other side of the lake. 

5 min. rail. 1 ml. (| st.) Vouvry — Pop. 1300. 

Hotel Medico, very humble, but fau\ 

In the midst of rude romantic rocks, cascades, etc. 

Excursion — To the Bidge of the Cornettes, 2000 ft., whence a 
gi-and view of Mt. Blanc, Mt. Rosa, and the Oberland. 3 hrs. 
Horse-path. Guide necessary. 

\ hr. rail. 6 mis. (2 st.) Monthey— Pop. 3000. 

Hotel de la Croix d'Or, simple, very good, most anxious ta 
please. 

Sight — Tlie HocMng Stone : an immense mass in equilibiium on 
a space of a few square inches : evidently brought down by a gla- 
cier, which has subsequently melted away from beneath it. Many 
others around : 20 min. walk through a forest, r. Difficult to find 
without a guide. 

Excursion — Up the Val d'llUer, char-rd. and foot-path. Little 
known. Extremely picturesque. Capital place for Botanists r 
here tropical and polar plants equally flourish. 
Sleep at Monthey. 

Tarif to Champery, high — Char for 2 persons, 12 fr. ; Horse 

and man, 8| fr. ; return, half as much more. 
3 hrs. char-rd? Champerv, 4000 ft. 

Beyond— 1. Up the Dent du Midi, 10,500 ft., 7 hrs. 

2. To Samoens, 6 hrs., for Chamouny, see 'Thonon,' p. 152. 

3. Across to the Tete Noire, 12 hrs.,' p. 159. 

The mountains close savagely. The two roads from Geneva,, 
on either side of the Rhone, run parallel: but from this side, 
the river not being crossed, the wonderful Bridge-scene indicated 
p. 152 is altogether lost, though close beside the sharp entrance into 

i hr. rail. 3 mis. (1 st.) St. Maurice— Pop. 1000. 

Hotel du Valais, the only recommendable one. Very rea- 
sonable Pension, 

Sight — 1. Ahhey — one of the oldest in Europe: *its treasury*" 
possesses many antiques. 

2. Field of the Thehan Lcgion^s 3Iartyrdom, and Chapel to 
St. Maurice, its leader. At Verolliaz. A very short distance fur- 
ther, on the Simplon-r5ad. 

TheTheban Legion consisted;of Early Christians (GOOO)in the'Army of Rome, 
and was distinguished for its bravery. It crossed the Gt. St. Bernard in a.l>. 2S6 
under Maximian, and reached this 'point. Here he prepared to sacrifice to his 
Gods. This Legion refused to olTer incense. He had every tenth man slain. The 
remnant refused again. Again he decimated them. Again the refusal and de- 
cimation followed, till the last man fell.— Is not this one of the World's grandest 
Battle-fields \ 

The few not then present with their Legion became Hermits in various places, p.. 
135, etc. 

(Continued in next section.) 



THE SIMPLON AND ITS BKANCHES. 



155 



LVI. THE SIMPLON AST) ITS BRAITCHES. 



Route to Italy. Continuation of last section. Post-road. 

Geneva to St. Maurice, steam and rail, 4f hrs., preceding section (by Villeneuve, 
Swiss-side, p. 151, or by Bouveret, Savoy-side), p. 153. 
St. Maurice to Sion, rail continued, 1 hr. 
Sion to Arona, dil., in 24 hrs. ; fare — 29 fr. 20 c. 

Arona to Milan, rail, 2J hrs., — to Genoa, rail, 4f hrs.,— to Turin, rail, 3| hrs. 



Scenery — * Avalanches, snows, glaciers, winding roads, with 
cataracts and precipices below, and clouds and blue sky above, 
and all the other romance-furniture of the Alps. The traveller, 
however, misses almost all the sublime impressions he expects' 
(Laing) — not if the approach be made/rom Switzerland. 

Tlie Koad — ' The greatest of all those monuments that at once 
dazzle by their splendour, and are subservient to general conve- 
nience' (Sir James Macintosh) — owes its idea to Napoleon I, its 
construction to M. Ceard. 

This 'idea' (JYapolaonienneJ was interpreted by the constant en- 
quiry — ' Le canon, quand pourra-t-il passer le Simplon." 

Time — From Geneva to Italy, travelling only by day — 3 days : 
sleeping at Brieg and Domo d'Ossola. Thence (instead of ^lif/Jit- 
dil.), voiture to Baveno, 24 mis., steam to Arona, and rail to 
Milan, Turin, or Genoa, the third night. — Consult page 144. 



From St. Maurice (last section), rail continued — 

The upward valley of the Rhone continues also with undiminish- 
ed grandeur, though putting on an entirely new aspect. 

i hr. rail. 6 mis. (2 stund.) Fall of the Sallenche, *Pis- 
sevache,' 100 paces to the r. of the road, from which, however, 
it can be well seen — 120 ft. perpendicular, total height 2S0 ft. 

Vernayaz hamlet. Horse-path from hence 
I?ito the Tete Notre, by the Eau Noire gorge, fine, better made inversely, p. 15i>. 



156 



THE SIMPLON — :MARTIGNY. 



The superb conical snow-mountain towering above the advance 
is Mt. Yelan, 10,500 ft., a neighbour of the Great St. Bernard. 

i hr. rail. 3 mis. (1 st.) Martigny, 1500 ft,— Pop. 2000 R. C. 

Hotel Clerc, new, large, well attended to, very satisfactory, com- 
fortable, and good. 

Hotel Grande Maisox, Post, of long standing, excellent, trusty. 

Hotel du Cygxe, excellent, reasonable, and recommendable. 
Private salons for families, very comfortable. 

Objects of Art, cut stones, wood-carving, chamois-horns 
views, botanic collections, &c., — in great variety, — at Widmer's, 

Situation — Majestic, amidst lofty mountain-crests. Frightfully 
inundated by the bursting of the Gietroz Glacier, June 16, 1818. 
Mark the height of the flood upon the wall of the Hotel de la Tour. 

Wines — Coquempin, La Marque, Yvorne. 

Carriage to the Baths of Louche — 1 horse, 40 fr. ; 2 hor., 60 fr. 

Short Excltisioxs — 1. To the Chateau La Batia, r. ; built in 
1260, for the Bishops of Sion — ruined at the Reformation ; 
*an insolvent light-house' — Albert Smith; commanding 
splendidly the landscape. ~ hr.'s ascent. 

2. To the ^Pierre d voir' ridge, 7000 ft. Magnificent 
prospect of the Alps.* Above Saxon. See page 160. 

3. To the Forciaz — celebrated view on the route to Cha- 
mouny. 2|- hrs. up. Guide needless. See p. 158. On 

4. Into the Tete Noire, and 
back to Martigny, 

5. Through the Eau Noire 
gorge, in continuation, make 
one magnificent day's easy 
work. See below. 

6. To the Gietroz Glacier, 
Val de Bagne. See below. 

LOXGER EXCURSIOXS — 

7. From Martigny — To the 
Ilosjnce of the Gt. St. Bern- 
ard, Aosta, ^^c. 

Note. If time be an 
object, and Martigny be reached early, Orsieres may be driven 
to and slept at ; the' Hospice be visited, and Martigny return- 
ed to, next day. 

Scenery — Unattractive : but ' if what strikes the mind on 
great mountain elevations be the sublime, almost terrific 
silence, suspension, death of nature, lonely sterility, absence 
of animal or vegetable life, reduction of all created objects 
to rock and cloud '—all these are its. 

it is the scene of Longfellow's ^ Excelsior !' 



Aosta Comayeur Chamouny 



, Great VFenetre/^a? iDlanc <^ ''\ '3 
1st. Bernardo- /-^ ^[ \^ o 

I \ '-c '° • / * 

1 St. Pierre c\ /-y 'o \ / <■ 

iValdeBa^ne OQrsieres Forcl3;z 
\\ " 

Sembranchier i ^ 

PieiTe a Voir * o * Batia 
Martignv 

Marks: Char-rds. Mule-palhs 



GEEAT ST. BERNARD. 



157 



Historical Associations — The Romans used the Pass a century 
before Christianity. Csecina's legions passed it, A. d. 69. So did 
Maximian in 236, preceding the sacrifice of St. Maurice, p. 154. So 
did an army under an uncle of Charlemagne in 773. And many 
others : up to the most famous passage of all, Bonaparte's, in 
May, 1800, the third week of which saw 30,000 m.en, with 
their materiel of war, cross it into Italy. From this, the victory 
of Marengo resulted, June 14. 

Hoad for voitures to the Cantine : thence for mules only. 

Tarif — Martigny to Liddes, mule 6 fr., man 6 fr. (one 
man can attend several mules.) Liddes to the Hospice, as much 
again. 

Martigny to the Hospice and hack, 30 fr. ; 2 mules, 42 fr. ; 
man and char included. 

Time: Up — Martigny to St. Pierre, 7 hrs. ; St. Pierre to the 
Hospice, 3 hrs. Down, retm-ning — I hr. less. Walking or riding 
the same. 

From the Hospice to Ko^idi,\down, 6 hrs. ; ujj from Aosta, 7. 

Omnibuses (!) between Martigny and St. Pierre, tvvice-a-day. 

Route, Through the suburb (Bourg) of Martigny r.. Across 
the Dranse, r. Sharp turn to the 1., up the stream and narrov/- 
ing gorge, and through the 

6 mis. (2 stund.) Galerie de la Monnaie, a rock-tunnel of 200 
ft. Debris of the Dranse's inundations all around. On the 1. the 
remnants of a destroyed convent; and further on a chateau 
which once lodged an emperor (Sigismund) and his suite. 

If ml. (f St.) Sembranchier, 2500 ft. To the left opens 

The Val de Bagne, grand scenery. Voitures can go to 
3 hrs., 8 mis., Lourtier, 3500 ft. Guide onward indispensable. 
Horse-path on, across the Gietroz Glacier, where it dammed up the valley in 
1818, the Dranse formed behind, a lake 7000 ft. lon^ ; the peasants, in fifties, work- 
ed night and day for a month, piercing it ; but ultimately it burst, discharging in 
h an hr. 5 times the volume of the Khine at Basle, sweeping all before it down to 
Martigny. Water falling from troughs now saws the sides and prevents rc-forma- 
tion. 

3 hrs. further, Torembec chalets, 5000 ft., may be slept at. 

4 hrs., Col de la Fenetre, 9000 ft. Surprising view. The route of Calvin's 
flight from Aosta. 

7 hrs., Descent through the Val Pellina, tortuous, to Aosta, see below. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Orsieres, 3000 ft.—Pop. 2300. Hotel des Alpes. 

To the Col de Ferret, 8000 ft., horse-path, r., from Orsieres, 5 hrs. up; fine 
view on top ; down, 5 hrs. more, to Cormat/eur,p. 183. Arduous. Guide essen- 
tial. (Cross-route from the Col de Ferret to the Gt. St. Bernard, see further on.) 

4|- mis. (li St.) Liddes, 3700 ft, — inn, not in good odour. 

3 mis. (1 St.) St. Pierre shows *to what base uses' a locality 
may come, which boasts a Church of the II th cent., and a 
triumphal Column 'after the high Roman method!' 13eyond, 
another profound abyss. 



158 



COL DE BALM — TETE NOIRE. 



3 mis. (1 Si.) Cantine de Proz, 6500 ft. — a lone inn. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Top of the Pass, 8000 ft. And at this height, 
the Hospice, founded in 962, by the philanthropic aristocratic 
Missionary, St. Bernard, of Menthon, p. 164. A dozen Angus- 
tins watch here all the winter for the snow-shrouded passers, 
and receive summer visitors to their hospitality — ■ which, ex- 
tended so critically to those who can make no return, ought 
to be at least as liberall}^ acknowledged as at an inn by those 
whom curiosity principally leads hither. Annual passers — 18,000 : 
contributors to the funds — scarcely 2000. (The Piano was pre- 
sented by our Prince of Wales, after his \dsit.) The devotedness 
of this ' little band ' entails a premature fate. The mean tempera- 
ture is that of Spitzbergen ! 

The dogs which assisted the Brethren to track the lost tra- 
veller were of Spanish extraction, but are now rather of the New- 
foundland species. Avalanches destroyed the old stock. 

Close by are two stone houses: a second Hospice, a 'refuge 
against fire for the living — and the Morgue, for the dead. 
The unclaimed bodies remain undecomposed in this pure air. 

So similar is this Hospice-scene and that of the 'Grimsel, that 
either is simply indicative of the other. 

Return to Martignj/ by another route, very grand — viz. By the Col de 
Fenetre and Col de Ferret, 4 iirs. ; and round to Orsieres, 4 hrs. more: see- 
above. 

The descent on the Piedmontese side is fine. To Aosta, 6 hrs. 
6 mis. (2 St.) St. Remi, 5000 ft. — inn. Passport for Sardinia^ 
Char-rd. forv^^ard. 

To Aosta, 3 hrs. drive, voiture— 1 person, 10 fr. ; 2 pers., 12 fr. ; 3 pers., 
15 fr. 

\ hr. further, at Bosses, a foot-path to the r. leads 

To Corniayeur, over the Col de Serena, tame, 10 hrs. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Etroubles, 4000 it—inyi. 

12 mis. (4 St.) Aosta, 1800 ft., p. 182. Finely situated. 

Hence : either r. to Cormayeiir, voiture, 6 hrs., and mule-path to Cka- 
moiini/, 3 days, the * Tour of i>It. Blanc,' 

Or 1. to Ivrea, dil. 9 hrs, : thence rail to Turin, 2 hrs. 

8. Fro7n 3Iartigny — To Chamoimy. 

Special note. Two routes : the 1st attractive only on a 
clear day, and useless to be taken from Chamouny ; the 2nd 
always attractive, and striking in either direction. From 
Martigny and back, the two form a convenient circle. If 
one only be taken, the 2nd is better. 

1st. By the Col de Balm. — One grand view on the instant of 
reaching the Col, 7000 ft., the Vale of Chamouny outspread 
below, the Avre and Arveiron threading it, the Aiguilles 
and Glaciers fianking it, and ^ the Monarch of Mountains * 
crowning all. See the ' Schachen Thai,' p. 71. ' Swiss Guide.* 



COL DE BALM — T^^TE NOIEE. 



159 



Time — up to the Col, 5f hrs. : down to Cliamouny, 4 hrs. 

2ar2f— Guide, 12 fr., needless. Mule, 12 fr. ; man, 12 fr. (one 
man can attend several mules). These prices include also the 
return next day. 

Route — Through Bourg-Martigny, as last, and across the 
Dranse ; then, r. Ascent of the Forclaz, celebrated view back- 
ward. 3 hrs.. Col de Trient, 4500 ft. (passport, needless — pay 1 fr.) 

Path 1., down to the further end of the village of Trient. 
Then 1., across a common, \ hr. Over the Nant-Noir bridge r., 
and up the further bank, 5 min. Then 1. sharply: zigzag as- 
cent through the forest of Magnin. 1^ hr., Chalets of Herbageres. 
J hr., Col de Balm — aiiberge. 

Descent, along the 1. of the Arve. 2 hrs.. Bridge : cross it (Tete 
Noire rd. comes down on the r.), and 1. into Argentiere — auherne : 
v»^hence char-rd., 2 hrs., to Chamouny, as below. 



2nd way. By the Tete Noire, — A succession of grand scenery. 

Time — 9 hrs. Tarifs — Same as last. Guide needless. 

Route — Same as last to Col de Trient, 3 hrs. Then r. into 
the dell, and through a sombre wood, along the mountain's side, 
overhanging a deep valley. 

1 hr., Hotel de la Tete Noire, excellent ; picturesque. A capital 
stopping-place for various little -known but remarkable 

ExcuRSioxs — To the Col de Travers, 2 hrs. by mule, and 2 more on foot. Su- 
perb view, similar to the Buet. 

To Martigny by the Eau Noire Gorge, a good return-route, 4 hrs. Well 
marked mule-patti. Most romantic. Signs of old glaciers. 

Path — down into the valley : up the opposite side ; then, r. Past various ham- 
lets. Descent to the Simplon high-rd. at Vernayaz, ^ hr. from Martigny, p. 156.] 

1 hr., the ^ Roche Percee,' a tunnel'd rock through which the 
route passes, Wild gorge on to 

f hr. Hotel de la Cascade de Barherine, good ; host anxious to 
afford satisfaction and comfort. (Return-mules cheaply to Mar- 
tigny or Chamouny.) Savoy frontier : passport for France. 

Excursions — 1. To the Cascade of the Barberine, r., 20 min. Very beautiful. 
2. Ascent of the Buet, 10,000 ft., 7 hrs. Extremely grand. 
Cross Koute — I'o the Val d'lllier and Lake of Geneva, p. 154. Extremely 
grand. See p. 143, 170. 

2 hrs., ridge of Trelechant, where the Chamouny Thai opens 
out beautifully, the Glacier d' Argentiere 1., and Mt. Blanc be- 
yond. The Aiguilles Rouges, r., superbly over-hanging. 

|- hr., Bridge 1. not to be crossed (route of the Col de Balm, 
above) ; down r. into Argentiere — 

Hotel de BeUeviie, recommended by * Mr. Smith ; ' fine view. 
2 hrs. walk,6| mis., or 1 hr. drive, char-rd., to Chamouny, p. I/O. 



From Martigny, the least varied portion of the Simplon, and 
the only ]/ortion that will not repay walking, is to Sion. 

J hr. rail. 6 mis. Saxon, Bath-house and Pension, extremely 



160 



THE SIMPLON — SION. 



good: recently enlarged: the most powerful known Spring of 
iodine and bromine. Numerous authentic cures of skin, eyes, 
glandular disorders, etc. Close by is also a Ferruginous Spring. 

Excursions from Saxon, many, and charming-. Generally — To the Col de 
Balm, Tete Noire, Eau Noire, Chamouny, Gt. St. Bernard, etc., as from Martigny, 
p. 166. Specially — To La Grotte, iron and' two other Springs, romantic, ^ hr. drive 
(or f- hr. walk).— To the Pierre-cl-voir, 7000 ft. immediately above Saxon, niule- 
path, 6 hrs. up; new chalet, refreshments, on top; mao-nificent Alpine pano- 
rama. Descent by sledge, 5500 ft., in 18 minutes ! (slower, if you like— we recom- 
mend 25, not being quite so ' fast ' a man.) 

Monies of the Diablerets (at the Martisrny-side of the Bridge of the Morge, 
left, 3 mis. short of Sion,) and of the Sanetsch (at the Sion-side). See below. 

I hr. rail. 11 mis. Sion, Germ. Sitten, 1800 ft.— Pop. 2700. 
Hotel de la Poste, highly reported of by visitors, extremely 
comfortable, clean, and reasonable. 

Situation picturesque, with three ruined episcopal palaces on 
abrupt eminences. 

Carriage to the Baths of Loeche — 1 horse, 25 fr. ; 2 hor., 40 fr. 
Omnib. daily, a.m., 8 fr. 
Excursion — To Evolena, 4000 ft. ; r. New inn. Horse-path, 

8 hrs. Guide needless. Grand glacier-scenery. 
Cross Eoutes — 1. To Zermatt, continuation of preceding. 
Over the 'Eed' (Zmutt) Glacier. The Zermatters crossed it 
in annual procession to Sion, up to the 15th cent. Dangerous 
foot-path, 12 hrs. Guides essential. Still grander scenery, 
made notable by Professor Forbes. See p. 161, 163. 

2. To Aosta, (from Evolena,) 2 days. Grand but dangerous. 
Guide indispensable. — To the Arolla Glacier, 4 hrs. Up to 
the Col de Collon, 10,300 ft., 5 hrs. Down to Prerayen cha- 
lets, 2 hrs. (sleep). Down to Yal Pellina village, 6 hrs. On 
to Aosta, 1800 ft.,2| hrs. 

3. To the Val d^A?iniviers, cross-route, see ^ Sierre ' below. 

4. - To Martigny hy the Val de Bagne, (from Sion or Evo- 
lena, the same). — Up Yal d^Heremence and Col d'Orsera, 
7000 ft., to Lourtier, 14 hrs.; Martigny, 2 hrs. m.ore. Page 157- 

5. To Bex. By the Biahlerets Pass. See above, and p. 151. 

6. TotheSimmenthal. By the Sa7iefsch, See above, and p. 123. 

9| mis. {3i St.) Sierre, Germ. Siders— Pop. 900. 

Hotel du Soleil, good ; has guides, mules, voitures, etc. 

To the Baths of Loeche — foot-path, 12 mis., past Salgetsch, 
Yaren, and Inden, not so fine from this side as the high-road 
continued. Omnibus daily, 8 fr., 7 hours' drive u}), p. 122. 

Excursion — Up the Val Annivicrsy r., 5|- hrs. Very 
beautiful. — Continue the high-rd. for 1 ml. further ; it crosses 
the Rhone. Then, char-rd. to the r. ^ hr., Clappis hamlet ; 
up the Val, 1. From the point ' Bella Tolla ' magnificent 
view. In the ' Pontis^ rocks, gallery 3 mis. long, a wild chapel 
at the end. 3 hrs., Vissoye, 1 J hr., Ayer, 4500 ft. 



THE SIMPLON — ^lEGE. 



m 



Cross Routes— unite the Yal d'Annmers with Evohna 
(see above), TurUnann Thai (see below), and over the Zinal 
Glacier to Zermatt (see farther on). 

From Sierre, the rd. winds among a strange jumble of low hills^ 
formerly a resort of robbers. 

6 mis. (2 St.) Susten — small auherge, Carriage-rd., 1., 

To the Baths of Loeche, 10 mis., and the Gemmi Pass, p. 122. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Tourtemagne, Germ. Turtmann — Pop. 500. 
Hotel du Lion d'Or,, Post, very good, anxious to please. 
Hotel du Soleil, very fair, comfortable, and reasonable. 
Named from its ' Turris magna,' now^ a chapel. Finely situated. 
Carriage to the Baths of Loeche — 1 horse, 15 fr. ; 2 hor., 22 fr. 
Sight — Cascade, 150 ft., \ hr. dovm Turtmann Thai : fuie. 
Ciioss Route — To St. Nicolas, Zermatt valley, see below. Mule- 
path, 10 hrs. Very grand. New. By the Turtmann Thalo 
4 hrs., Griiben — new auherge. 2 J hrs., up to the Ridge. 
(1 hr. to the Schwartzhorn, grand view of Mt. Blanc, Monte 
Rosa, etc. ; \ hr. back.) 3| hrs. down to St Nicolas. 
8i mds. (2| St.)"' Yiege, Germ. Visp, 2200 ft.— Pop. 600. 
Hotel de la Posts, delightful, clean, excellent, certain to give 
satisfaction. Supplies the ' Poste aux chevaux.' It cannot be too 
strongly recommended as the best. 

Formerly a place of ' high estate,' witness the chateaux, — now 
^ fallen ' apparently ' like Lucifer.' The grand snowy point r. is 
the Balferin, 12,300 ft., a peak of the Mischabel, the highest Swiss 
tnountain. 

An earthquake, in 1855, shattered Yiege : its traces are exceed- 
ingly interesting. 

Carriage to the Baths of Loeche — 1 horse, 22 fr. ; 2 hor., 36 fr. 
Carriage to Domo d'Ossola — 1 horse, 50 fr. ; 2 hor., 80 fr. 

Carriage-roads Chatillon Aosta 

Mule and Poot-paths Q ^ ^ 




Monte Rosa 
Macugnaga 



* 




Mt. Cerdn 



* 



Col de;Collon 
Ai'ollai Glacier 



ValPellina 



Zinal Glacier 




< Griiben Aver Evolena 
St.^Mcolas p- 0-- ---o 



Staldeno- 




Simplon-road Vii^ge 



Tourtemagne Sicrro Sion 



Excursions — I. To Zermatt. A locality of the utmost gran- 
deur. Glaciers vaster than any in Switzerland. 



162 



ZERMATT. 



Time — 9 hrs. The whole excursion may be divided — 1st day, 
Zermatt; 2nd, the Riffel; 3rd, Viege again. Or — 1st, St. Nico- 
las ; 2nd, Zermatt and the RifFel ; 3rd, Viege again. 

Tarifs — Horse and man, to St. Nicolas, 10 fr. (if too late to 
return, 2 fr. more) ; — to Zermatt, 22 fr. Porte-chaise, to Zermatt, 
4 men, 6 fr. each, and same to return next day. 

Route — Well marked horse-path. Guide needless. 

Ascend through the village, past the higher church. At last 
house, path sharp to the r. 

f hr., Neubriick bridge, r. Cross it. 
• f hr., Stalden : The valley divides — L, the Saas Thai, to 
Macugnaga, p. 154 : ascend r., the Nicolai Thai, to Zermatt. 

1 hr., Bridge on the 1. Cross it. And continue on the 1. to 

f hr,. Bridge : cross to the r. 

i hr. r., St. Nicolas, 3600 ft.— Pop. 400. 

Hotel de la Croix Blanche, a charming house, exquisitely 
clean, and thoroughly recommendable. 

Cross Route hencelintolthe Tiirtmann Thai, see ' Tourtemagne,' above. 

5 min. beyond, across bridge to the 1. The base of the great 
Mischabel alongside. 

(5 min. before Randa, a mere mountain-path comes down upon 
the 1. In reversing this route, avoid it.) 

2| hrs., Randa — refreshment at the Cure's. The Bies glacier, 
opposite, is an exceptional one, and does not advance. 

Hence, the brown ridge of the RifFel continually closes the dis- 
tance, with the sharp white horn of the Petit Mt. Cervin above. 

J hr., Tsesch hamlet. 

|- hr.. Bridge on the r. Cross it. Thence * all is r.' — Suddenly, 
the awful peak of the Mont Cervin comes into view, like an ap- 
parition, on the r. 

i hr., Zermatt, Fr. Praborgne, 5000 ft.— Pop. 400. 
Hotel du Mont Cervin, at the entry of the village, very good, 
reasonable, and recommendable. Hot and cold Baths. Cabinet 
of Minerals, Natural History, etc. 

Hotel du Monte Rosa, central in the village, very good, rea- 
sonable, and recommendable. 

English Church-service, on Sundays. 

A curious village in a green and wooded valley, rich in 
botany, mineralogy, and entomology, invaded by the Findeln, 
Corner, and ' Red ' glaciers (the last name given most pro- 
perly by the Author of * Modern Painters ' to the Zmutt, 
its base being coloured with vast blocks of gneiss) ; Mont 
Cervin, Germ. Matterhorn, 14,900 ft., above all — its aspect 
most extraordinary — ' a vast rigid promontory, lifting itself 
like a rearing horse ' — Ruskin. 
Th.^ earthquake of 1855 shook severely the houses, — no more. 



PASS OF ST. THEODULE. 



163 



It was the table d'hote time in the Hotels ; they were crammed — 
and cramming ; all rushed out. Except one man : he composedly 
kept his seat by the window : he was English. 

The Gorner Glacier advances 60 to 70 ft. per ann. For many 
years the rest have not advanced. All the Zermatt Glaciers ad- 
vanced last year : all the Saas Glaciers receded. 

From Zermatt — 

2. To the, ridge of the Rlffelberg, 8000 ft. Hotel on top, 
very good. 2 hrs. up. Guide, 4 fr. Horse and man, 10 Ir. 

Path past the Church: then, 1., over fields: then, up 
through a wood, 1 hr. Past chalets : then, r., across a stream. 
Fine view of Mont Cervin from the ridge. — But the grand 
Excursion is 

3. To the Gorner Grat, 9000 ft. 2 hrs.' further ascent. 
From hence, the finest mountain-panorama in Europe. 

4. To the Schivarzsee, petty lake, 8000 ft. Horse-path. 
3 hrs. up, from Zermatt. View — superior to that from the 
Riffelberg. Horse and man, 10 fr. 

5. To the TIdr7ilein, 1 hr. above preceding. Still finer viev/. 

6. Up the Cima di Jazi, 13,300 ft. Guide, 10 fr. Route 
past the Riffelberg, "4 hrs. ; not difficult ; glorious view. 

7. Ascent of Monte Ilosa, 15,200 ft., very severe. Guide, 50 
fr. ; 2 necessar}^. Route past the Riffelberg. First man on 
the top — Mat Taugwald, 1849 ; first English — Messrs. Smyth 
and Kennedy, 1854. 

Note. — With a guide, a different return-route may be 
effected from various points. 
Cross Routes — 1. To Aosta. Pass of St, Theodule, the lofti- 
est in the Alps. More fit for stout pedestrians : but ladies take 
it. Guide to Chatillon, 25 fr. Marvellous views. 
From Zermatt — 

Time~l4\ hrs. (2 hrs. less from the Riffel). On the Col is 2 
hrs. snow : it must be crossed early while hard. Zermatt should 
be left at 3 a.m. (Breuil, in coming the opposite way, 3 a.m.) 

Tarif— Horse and man, to the Col, 10 fr. ; to Val Tournanche 
(sometimes possible), 15 fr.; to Chatillon, 25 fr. 

6 hrs. up to the Col, 11,000 ft. Hut, where De Saussure spent 
3 experimental days. 

2j hrs. down to Chalets of Breuil ; can sleep here. 

2'hrs., Val Tournanche, 5000 ft. — Auherge, not vrcll reported 
of : can lodge at the Cure's. 

4 hrs., Chatillon on the high-rd., 1100 ft, p. 182: whence 

To Aosta, r. (for St. Bernard, Martiijny, Geneva,— or for Connaycur 
and Chamouny), 16 mis., voiture-rd. 
To Tar in f 1., 6 hrs., diligence, and rail. 

2. To Uvolena, 2 guides, 30 fr. each, see ' Sion,'p. 160. 

3. To the Val d^Anniviers, ditto, see ^ Sierre,' p. I GO. 



164 



]\L\CUGNAGA — MORO PASS. 



4. Over the Weisstlior Pass, 10,000 ft., to Macugnaga, 12 hrs. 
Grand, but dangerous. 2 Guides, 25 fr. each. Eut 

5. Over the Moro Pass is preferable, as both easier and lovelier. 
■ — Back to Stalden, see before, 7 hrs. ; thence on, r., as follows — 

From Viege, above — 

Excursion — 2. Over the Moro Pass to Macugnaga, and 
by the Val Anzasca to the Simplon rd. again, at Yogogna. 
Of the highest sublimity. The old Post-rd. into Italy ! 
Tarif — Horse and man, to Saas, 20 fi'. 

Mule-path towards Zermatt, above, to 

2 hrs., Stalden. Then 1. through a glacier-lined valley. 
4 hrs., Saas, 5000 ft.— 

Hotel M. Rosa, good. 

(Charming local excursion, 3 hrs., to Fee callage, at the 
foot of the Mischabel, 15,000 ft., the highest Siviss mountain.) 

Guide hence to Macugnaga indispensable, 10 fr. Ladies 
can cross in porte-chaises — 4 men, 18 fr. each. 

The path passes near the Allalein glacier, bridge-like, 
beautiful, the Viege bounding from it. Then, 1., along the 
Mattmark See. 

3f hrs., Distel chalets — mule-path ends : foot-path r. 

1 hr., Top of the Pass, 8400 ft., and a view of a glory 
wholly indescribable, across to Monte Rosa, 15,200 ft., and 
continuing the entire way down to 

3|- hrs., Macugnaga, 4400 ft. — aiiberffe. 

The early morning view of Monte Rosa is tlie view. 

Fine Points of View at Macugnaga— Guide ad- tw + -p 

vantageous, 6 fr. a day. One day, of 9 hrs., can em- monte Kosa. 

brace all — /' . "\ 

1. The Belvedere, mule-path, 2 hrs. ti ^ • •. '^1^^^^^"' 

2. The Fillar, across the Glacier, I hr. fur- Pedriolo * Fillar 

3. Further on, upon the Glacier, increasingly \ * ±>eivedere 

fine. \| 

4. Pedriolo Chalets ; and back to Macug- : Moro Pass 

naga. ° 

Macugnaga 

Hence, the Val Anzasca to the .J-^rl?-?-^?!-iBorca 
Simplon again : deliciously shaded to vo^^o'Tia 
Ponte Grande. 

|- hr., Borca — best sleeping-place. Char-road on. 

To Alagna, by the Turlo Pass, 7 hrs., severe, see p. 192. 

3t hrs., Ponte Grande. Mules cannot be counted on, short 
of this. 

3 hrs., Vogogna, on the Simplon, p. 166. 



From Viege, above, p. 161. Simplon high-road continued — 
From Glys on the Simplon, a road r. saves 1 mile, and alto- 
gether avoids the postal detour by 



THE SIMPLON — ^EEIEG. 



165' 



5| mis. (If St.) Brieg, 2500 ft— Pop. 750. 
I Hotel de la Poste, best. Landlord most attentive, anxious to- 
1 please. Good horses, voitures, etc. 

I Carriage to the Baths of Loeche — 1 horse, 30 fr. ; 2 hor., 40 fr. 
} Carriage to Domo d'Ossola — 1 horse, 50 fr. ; 2 hor., 80 fr. 

j To the Grimsel, Furca, &c., char-rd. 1. to Obergesteln; horse-path thence. 

Described fully, p. 108, ' Swiss Guide.' 

I Farewell to the Yalley of the Rhone ! Commencement of the 
Simplon proper. ' Now comes the tug ' — 

j Chevaux de renfort to the top, 1}^ fr. each : 1 required for a one-horse 

jj carriage, 2 for a two-horse, and so on. 

From either side, between Brieg and Domo d'Ossola can be 
|j walked as fast as driven: 14 leagues, II hrs. ; viz., up to Simplon 
village, Zi hrs., down to Domo, 3| : up from Domo, 7 hrs.^ 
down from Simplon village, 4. 
I Pedestrians! beware of the ^short-cut' of the old rd., saving 
i| 2 hrs., but increasing labour, and losing the finest points. 

The scenery augments momentarily in grandeur and wildness. 
House after house of refuge is reached, hundreds of bridges 
crossed, and galleries and tunnels gone through. 

9 mis. (3 St.) Persal, 4300 ft. — auherge, and post-house. 
4 mis. (1| St.) Gallery of Sclialbet, 95 ft. long, hewn in the 
I rock. The most perilous part of the Pass succeeds, sw^ept for 
I three-quarters of the year by avalanches. 

I If ml. (f St.) Aqueduct of the Kaltwasser Glacier, the 
torrent, carried above the road, shooting across it into the deep 
below. — A little beyond, is the 

Top of the Pass, 6600 ft., marked by a cross; a level hemmed 
by glaciers, like the bed of a dried-up lake. New Hospice : 
annual receptions, 18,000: a better sleeping-place than 

6 mis. (2 st.) Simplon, 5000 ft. — small village. Manufact., 
wooden drags for the furiously descending carriages. 

41 mis. (U St.). Gorge of Gondo, 683 ft. long, with four 
lateral lights, outside of which the excavators were slung by 
' ropes, and the interior of which commemorates the ' genius of 
the place' by an inscription, ^ JEre Halo. 1805. Nap, Imp^ It 
took 18 months, working night and day, to excavate. 1 ml. 
further is Gondo village. 
I 4t mis. (If St.) Isella — auherge. Passport for Sardinia. 

Now the scenery softens. The Val d'Ossola expands, a charm- 
ing relief and contrast to past horrors. Luxuriant verdure, pliant 
vines, insect voices, mellowing tints, the very air ' breathing of 
the sweet south' — ^yes! this is Italy, indeed. 

At Crevola, the Val Formazza opens, see below, 3 miles 
short of 

9 mis. (3 St.) Domo d'Ossola, 1000 ft. 
I Hotel d'Espagne, very good and recommendable. 

! V 2 ■ i; 



166 



r-oMo d'ossola. 



Hotel de la Yille (PostV spacious, reasonable, well report- 
ed of. 

Sight — A CaJrary. like that of Yarallo, p. 191, above the city. 
. ExCTESiox — To the Falls of the Tosa. Val Formazza. 27 mis. 
iNlagiiificent scenery. Yoitore-rd. to San Eocco. 

3 mis.. Crevola, on the Simplon, see above. 
11 mis., Premia — i?in. 

4 mis., San Rocco — {?r/i. Horse-path on. 

3 mis., Foppiano Goro-e. very fine. 

2 mis.. An der !MatL 'Formazza^ — in?}. 

4 mis.. Falls of the Tosa, 1000 fr. ;500 perpendicular; : a 
superb mass : second in size only to Schaffhausen, 

Ceoss Roites — 1. To Ohergestehi in the Yallev of the Rhone 
— Grle^ Pass, p. 108. 

2. To Airolo, on the St. Gotthard — Xufenen Pass : p. 96. 
. Each, 54 hrs., bad path, beyond the Falls of the Tosa. 

3. To Locarno. Las^o ^lagfcriore. bv Val Visrezzo. 11 lirs.. fine, 
p. IBS. 

Towards Geneva : Pedesti'ians and chevaux de renfort — same 
conditions as from •' Brieg.' see above. 

Towards Lago ^Mag-giore : 1. Boats afford an interesting descent, 
by the Tosa. — 2. Dihgences in connection with the Steamers at 
Baveno. 5 hrs.' drive. — 3. Omnib.. past Gravellona, see below, to 
Pallanza. 

Xote. — In both directions the Dils, depart nightly : the sceneiy 
is lost except to those who voitiu*e or walk. 

Yoitm-e to Baveno — 1 horse, 15 fi*. ; 2 hor., 22 fr. 
9 mis. ^3 St.; Vogogna — ■ 
Hotel. Xot well reported of. 

ExcuRSiox — To Jiacugnaga, for !Monte Rosa, 15.200 ft. Scenery 
of the extremest grandeur and beauty combined. 

Cliar-rd. to Borca, 6^ hrs. ; horse-path thence to Ma- 
cugnaga, i hr. more. There and back are almost loo much 
for one day, but can be done in it. At Ceppo Morelli alone, 
4| hrs.. the view is almost as grand as at Macugnaga. 

From Macugnaga over the Moro to Saas, Zermatt. and the 
Simplon again at Yiege — loses, when made in this order. De- 
scribed fully, p. 164. 
12 mis. (4 St.) Grravellona. Hence 

To Pallanza. on Lazo Afag^riore, p. 1S9 : 7 mis., omnib. early. 

To Lago d'Orta, p. 192 ; 4 mis., lovely scenery, omnib. passing from. Pallanza 

About 2.mls. further, at Fariolo, is reached 

THE LVGO :^iaGGIOEE. 

3 mis. (1 St.) Baveno— 

The rest of the way along the lake is fully described, p. 1S9 — 

ITo the St. Gottliard Pass. To Mi^an. To Genoa. To Turin. 



ROUTES TO CHA]\IOUNY, 167 

o Geneva oThonon, Lake of Geneva Martigny Viege 

V Samoensi— 9 Sixt 

C) Bonneville 



\ Col d' Anterne — -Buet , Val de Bagne 

\ Chede i ' 

\o o- oSe] 

\ \ \ ^ 'V~''\^ ^ 

Sallanclies\v — -V- — b Ouches-o -''C^ ;^ 



\^t.G^rvaix CHAMOUNY 



Annecy >^ ' , . '^'^ Gtrsr&rnard Igf The^^^ 

\ 9Contamines TvrmsiT -RT A>jn / /\ ^,^t. Xiieodule 

UgineC;^^ Col du Bonhomme ^^^^ ^^^^^ / Serena/ \ / ! 

Beau \fort cS 6 Allee Blanche -'— o 6 



\ Chapiu The Cramont Cormayeur Aosta Chatillon 

Albertvilleo 6Bourg St. Maur— Lit.St.Bernard Ivreao 

J-^rr "^""^"""^^i Moutiers Carriage-rds. Turin o 

Oh^mhevy Mule-paths —-- 



LVII. GENEYA— SALLANCHES- CHAMOUJTY. 

Dil. to Sallanches, 36| mis., 5 hrs. Char to Chamouny, 18^ mis., 
6 hrs. Through-tickets at the bureaux. (Cross-rds. to Sixt, p. 143.) 



Geneva, dep. 


Sallanches. 


Chamouny, 
arr. 




Chamouny, 
dep. 


Sallanches. 


Geneva, arr. 


6 a.m. 


11 a.m. 


5 p.m. 




7 a.m. 


11 a.m. 


5 p.m. 


7 a.m. 


1 p.m. 


7 p.m. 




9 a.m. 


1 p.m. 


6 p.m. 


Coupe — 


18 fr. 


23 fr. 




Coupe — 


6 fr. 


23 fr.' 


Banquette — 


15 fr. 


20 fr. 




Banquette — 


6 fr. 


20 fr.' 



The services are recommended, of the Messageries Generales, 87 Eue du Rhone, 
and the Messageries Imperiales, Grand Quai. 
The vehicles are ' inversables ' — the word is a little too suggestive. 

Voitures — Geneva to Sallanches — ^1 horse, 25 fr. ; 2 horses, 50 
fr. Sallanches to Chamouny — 12 fr. per horse; or 6 fr. per seat. 

Chamouny to Sallanches — 2 horses, 18 fi*. ; to Geneva — 2 hor., 
50 fr. 

Passport — visa for Savoy (France) ; at Geneva, or Berne. 

Pedestrians have no inducement to walk to Sallanches ; but 
fro7n thence, being all up-hill, they can reach Chamouny before 
the chars, and see the rosy sunset on the chain of glaciers, for 
which the char-iers are generally late. 

Route — Almost every town on it has been some time or other 
burnt down. All have little indifferent i7ins. 

. Geneva, 1200 ft., page 143. 
7 kilometres. (4^ mis.) Annemasse. Passport, see above. 
21 kil. (13 mis.) Bonneville— Pop. 1500. 
„ Hotel de la Couronne, best. Good landlord, desirous to 
please. Refreshments, etc., can be had here at all times (this is 
said to be sometimes denied at Geneva). 



168 



SALLANCHES — ST. GERYAIX. 



Prettily placed : formerly exposed to the overflows of the Arve : 
dammed by the King of Sardinia, to whom a column and statue 
appear : overlooked by the Brezon, 5500 ft. r., and the Mole, 5500 ft. 1. 

Ascent of the Brezon, 5500 ft., horse-path, 3 hrs., easy. Rich in mineralogy and 
hotany. Fine view. 

13 kil. (8 mis.) Cluses, 1600 ft.— Pop. 2000. 

A * closed ' place [clausus) — so named from the gorge bevond. 

3 kil. (If ml.) The Grotto 'La Balme,' 800 ft. above "the rd. 
1800 ft. deep ; takes 2 hrs. to visit and return. 

3 kil. (If ml.) Maglan village. In 1855, the top of the over- 
hanging mountain broke off \\dth a fearful noise, and rushed 
down on both sides of the village, sparing it, amidst clouds of 
dust. The inhabitants thought the End of the World had come. 

6 kil. (3f mis.) Fall of Arpenaz — close to the road: the 
thin water frittered into fine spray half-way down, after the Staub- 
bach fashion, extremely beautiful. Goethe and Talfourd have 
noticed it. 

5 kil. (3 mis.) St. Martin village, 1700 ft. 

Hotel du Mont Blanc, very good, reasonable, and trusty. 
The Proprietor has been in Enghsh families. 

The Bridge, beyond, is a celebrated point of ^dew for Mt. Blanc. 

The pedestrian who descends here, and proceeds 1. to Chede, 
saves 2 miles, because the Dils. go into Sallanches (1 ml.) to 
dine, and return again to St. Martin. The route to St. Gervaix 
is throuqli Sallanches. 

(1 ml.) Sallanches, 1700 ft.~Pop. 2000. 

Hotel de Belle- Yl^, finely situated, of good reputation ; has 
horses, carriages, table d'hote, etc. The balcony commands a 
fine vieAV of Mt. Blaric and its entire chain. 

Town burnt down on Good Friday, 1840. 

Voitures, Mules, and Guides — ^may be had advantageously of 
M. Borel. 

Ascent of the Aiguille de Vareiis, 8S00 ft., the magnificent peak 
opposite Sallanches, above St. Martin — is well worth being made ; 
1 day ; guide desirable, 6 fr. 

To Ugine, Alhertville, Annecij, Chamhery, cross-rd., p. 18L 

From Sallanches is a choice of two parallel ways — viz. 
Is^ way — Sallanches to Chamouny. By St. Gervaix, 

Camaf?e-rd. Sallanches to St. Gervaix, 5 mis. 
St. Gervaix to Ch^de, on the regular dil.-rd., see below, 1 ml. more. 

mis. Three cross-roads : — 1., to Chede : — straight on, to St. 
Gervaix village : — r., to (5 minutes' distance) 

Baths of St. Gervaix, 2000 ft.— Annual ^^sitors, 800. 

The Bath-house is spacious ; has library, biUiard-room, * Jar- 
din Anglais,' etc. ; and is undergoing great improvements. Pen~ 



BATHS. OF ST. GERVAIX. 



169 



sion, very liberal, and terms ver}^ moderate. Use of the Waters 
and Medical superintendence, for the whole season, 20 fr. 

The Watees, discovered A. d. 1806, comprise 7 natural sources ; 
from 420 to IS^ Centig. (107^ to 64^ Fahr.) ; are alkahne, Hke 
Vichy— sulphureous, like Enghien — saline, like Bourbon — gela- 
tinous, like Neris — ferruginous, like Forges; — aperient, like Seid- 
litz ; and are remedial for dyspepsia, neuralgia, rheumatism, 
paralysis, debility, eruptions, general obstructions, cutaneous and 
chronic complaints. 

Situation, most romantic, in the Bon-nant gorge. Beyond the 
Bath-house, a fine waterfall. 

JEnglish Church-service^ generally in the season. 

To Chede^ 1 ml., on the regular dil.-rd. to Chamouny, see below. 

1 ml. St. Gervaix Village, 2200 ft.— Pop. 300. Char-rd. up. 

Hotel and Pension du Mont Joly, simple, agreeable, good, 
and moderate : constructed anew, and considerably enlarged. 

Hotel and Pension de Geneve, good ; trust-worthy Proprietor. 
Here every necessary is furnished for ascending Mt. Blanc. 

Guides of St. Gervaix, — An experienced body of men, regularly 
enrolled, and specially to be depended upon. 

Voitui^es, 3fules, Guides, Sfc, — may be had of M. Borel. 

ExcUKSlONS — 1. 2o the Cascade da Crepin, foot-path, r., 5 min. 
Singularly fine. Bridge, -J fr. Refreshments. 

2. To the Pont du Diable^ 5 min. Romantic bridge said to have 
been built by Satan ! It leads to 

3. Ascent of Mont Johj, 5 hrs. up, mule-path. Magnificent 
panorama. 

4. To the Fyr amides des Fees, extraordinary pillars of earth 
200 ft. high, continually forming. Mule-rd., ^ hr. 

5. To the Trelatete Glacier, 3 hrs. Beyond * Contamines,' 
below. 

Cross Routes — 1. To Chamou7iy, by the Col de Voza, 5500 ft. 
See p. 185. But insist on going by the Prarion,6000 ft., sharp ascent 
right above St. Gervaix ; 2 hrs. to the top. Magnificent view on 
the chain of Mt. Blanc, etc. Thence down to the Col de Voza, f 
hr. — inn, ^ Pavilion,' on top. Thence, down to Les Ouches, 2j hrs., 
and Chamouny, 1| hr. 

2. To Contamines, for the ^Back of Mont Blanc,' p. 184. 
Char-rd., 2 hrs. Guide needless. Two little villages, Bionay 

and Tresse, lie between. 

3. To the Chamhery Road, Annecy, Aix, &c. p. 180. 

4. Ascent of Mont Blanc, from St. Gervaix, p. 173. 

2nd way — Sallanches to Chamouny. By regular dil.-rd. 
(1 ml.) St. Martin is returned to, and passed through, see above. 
10 kil. (6 mis.) Chede village, 2000 ft. (For ' St. Gervaix,' see 
p. 168.) 



170 



CHAJMOUNY. 



To the Baths of St. Gervaix, cross-rd., 1 ml., see above. 

(Cascade, 5 min. to the 1.) The road mounts. 

5 kil. (3 mis.) Servoz village, 2700 ft. 

Hotel de l'Univers, best, well placed, well kept. 

A^very grand resting-place and locality. 

To Sixt, Samoens, Thonon (Lake of Geneva), fine foot-path, partial road,, 
two days : described fully, p. 152. 
Ascent of the Buet, 10,000 ft., 8 hrs. Extremely grand. See p. 143, 159. 

The ;plain of Servoz was once a lake. The road ascends the 
* Montets.' On top, the range of Mt. Blanc shows well. 

7 kil. (4J mis.) Les Ouclies, 3000 ft. — opening hamlet of the 

VALLEY OF CHAMOUNY, 

which Goethe characterises as ' a Cup 
to the Arve, whose sides are the moun- 
tains.' The east is formed by the 
mass of Mt. Blanc, seamed mth seven 
glaciers : the four conspicuous ones are 
- — ^1., Argentiere and Bois, — r., Bossons 
and Taconnaz. To the extreme 1. are 
seen the routes of the Tete Noire and 
Col de Balm, p. 158, 159 ; and to the ex- 
treme r. the route of Contamines and 
Cormayeur, p. 181. 
Pop, of the Valley, 4000 ; whose reputation was such, that the re- 
gion was entitled ' Montagnes maudites " in days of yore. 

Its exploration began with the Benedictines of the 12th cent., 
who built a Priory. And in 1740, two enterprising Englishmen, 
Pococke and Windham, invaded it. The teaching of the monks, 
and the advent of visitors, changed all for the better. 

7 kil. (4J mis.) Chamoimy, French ; Chamonix, Sardinian.— 
3300 ft. 

GHAMOUNY. 

Hotels de la Couronne et de Saussltie, new, vast, elegant, 
in fine view of Mt. Blanc, containing all that the Tom'ist can 
desire. Good Pension. Moderate prices. 

Hotel Simond, 'Le Nord,' excellent, attentive, moderate. 
Baths, iron-spring, ' petit lait.' The position for the view of Mt. 
Blanc is unrivalled, it being tJie last house, with nothing to inter- 
cept the sight. 

Hotel de Londres, a magnificent house and view. Every 
convenience. Hot and cold Baths. Pension advantageously. 

Hotel Koyal de l'Union, a superb house, excellently kept. 
Magnificent view. Hot and cold Baths. Reasonable Pension, 
Enghsh Church-service celebrated here. 

Hotel du Mont Blanc, very reasonable, and gox)d. Pension. 
Fine view of Mt. Blanc. 




CHAMOUNY. 



171 



Pension et Eestaurant Suisse, on the river, in face of Mt. 
Elanc, recommendable to rigid economists, good, and moderate. 

Model of the Alps — Savioz ' ; showing the mountains as they 
are ; well worth seeing. Entry, |- fr. 

JDiorama of Alpine scenery — interesting. Same house. 1 fr. 

Fhotograp/is of the locality, for sale — admirable. Sam.e house. 

Minerals, ^-c. — The best and only recommendable collection is 
that of M. Payot, the distinguished Naturalist and explorer. 

Swiss ivood-work carved — No recommendable house. The 
choice is so limited and the prices so enormous that the Tourist 
can much better purchase in Switzerland. 

English Ba7ih, in the principal street. 



CHAMOUNY— EXCUESIOSrS. . 

Mont Blatstc 

Jardin ; Col du Geant Grand Plateau Dome du Goute 

Mer de GlaceiMontanvert Grands Mulets Taconnaz Gla. 

Argent. Gla. BoisyGla. \ Cascades Bossons Gla. 1 

Col de Balm Chapeau; Arveiron\ Pelerins and Dard I ; 

Argentiere o 0 — o Pres \ ,- : 

mAZ-xf-" Tines I n o ; Ouches 

Tete Nou-e -CHAMOUNY Bossons i ^ 

; Church : ColdeYoza | 

Aiguilles Eouges Flegere'- Breven High-rd. ' St. Gervaixo 

Marks used above : Villages o : Char-roads : Foot and Mule-paths 



Guides — Ordinary courses, 6 fr. per day. 

Extraordinary— to the Jardin, 10 fr. ; Buet, 15 fr. ; Grands 
Mulcts, 40 fr. ; Col du Geant, 50 fr. ; Mt. Blanc, 100 fr. 
Mule, and man— 12 fr. per day. 

Two days can embrace all the more rampant ' lions.' ; Thus — 

1st. Montanvert and Jardin. 

2nd. Chapeau, Arveiron, and Flegere. 

Next morning, if returning towards Geneva,— by anticipating 
the dil. by an hour, the Pelerins and Dard may be visited, and the 
dil. met at Bossons village. 

Stout Pedestrians may make the Montanvert, and Jardin, and 
back to Chamouny (13 hrs.) in the day.— Ladies can partly ride, 
and be carried the rest of the way. 

Advice— k^cew^ the Montanvert 2LX\di Chapeau mi\\e morning, being- then in 
shade ; and the Fieqere in the afternoon, for the same reason— and also because 
Mt. Blanc being then in sunshine is more effectively viewed from hence. 

1. Montanvert and Jardin — the finest excursion. 
To Montanvert, 6000 ft.— 3 hrs. up (2 hrs. down). Mule-path. 
Guide needless, 6 fr. Mule, 6 fr. e a 

Bridge across the Arve. Centre path, through meadow, for 



172 



CBL^^IOI-XY — EXCURSIONS. 



hr., to a house. Then, r. towards the mountains, and up a pine- 
forest to the ]\Ier de Glace, a motionless extent of white pinnacles 
innumerable, the upfrozen waves of an icy sea — a stupendous sight. 
Auberge, on the edge, may be slept at. 

To the Jardin — a gi'een, flower-reheved space amid eternal ice — 
the one soft spot in the hard and lonely heart of the ' ^Monarch of 
Mountains:' 3 hrs. further, across the ]Sler de Glace. Still grander 
effect. Guide from the auherge. 4 fr. more. 

To the Chapeau — cross route, dangerous, see below. 

To the Arveiron — ditto. On both, Guide indispensable. 

2. CQiapeau — the secotid best excursion — and easiest of all. 
hrs. up (2 hrs. down). Guide needless. 

Char-rd. through the hamlet ' Les Tines.' Then r. to the hamlet 
Lavanche. Well-marked mule-path to the grotto at the foot of the 
Chapeau. Even from this point, the view is quite peculiar — the 
Mer de Glace seen to more extraordinary effect, and the vrhole val- 
ley better commanded, than from any other, however higher. The 
want of an auherge is the sole reason for this easy and repaying ex- 
cursion being less frequently made. 

The ^Jlauvais Fas ' connects the Chapeau and Montanvert. 

3. Source of the Arveiron (may be taken in returning from 
last, by another path 1. from 'Les Tines:' and thence to Cha- 
mouny again, r. by ' Les Pres ' hamlet). — From Chamouny, 1 hi'. 

Char-rd. to 'Les Pres:' then, mule-path r. to the foot of the 
Mer de Glace. The river bounds out from it with a wonder- 
ful effect, heightened by the colouring around, dark gulf, blue 
glacier, white foam, all coming to life in the Fall, hke the gush of 
an arter}'. 

A ti-ying path, ' the Filiaz,' connects this with the ]SIontanvert. 

4. Flegere, 6500 ft.— 2} hrs. up (If hr. down). Guide 
needless, 6 fr. Mule, 6 fr. 

Char-rd. to ' Les Pres,' not crossing the Arve : thence, mule- 
path to the top, viz., 1. through a wood, 10 min.: down to the river 
again, 5 min. ; up, 1., for 40 min.: into another wood, over a stream; 
and in 1 hr. the Cross of the Flegere, with a three-bedded auherge. 
Mt. Blanc visible from head to foot. 

The Arv-eiron may be grafted on the descent — allowing then 
1 hr. more. 

A path connects the Flegere with the 

5. Breven, 8000 ft. — same view. — From Chamouny, 3| hrs. 
up (2 J hrs. down). Guide, 6 fr. Mule, 6 fr. 

Past the Church, mule-path, to Planpra — inn^ 2 hrs. Foot- 
path, 1 hr., to the Cheminee, * chimney ' of rock, a tube of 50 ft., 
to be climbed. Thence to the top, f hr. 

6. Cascade des Pelerins, 1 hr. — High-road to Bossons village, 



ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 



173 



f hr. ; across the Arve ; then 1., through a wood, to the foot of the 
Glacier des Bossons. The Fall is 150 ft., hut the central stone 
which originally made it jump, Nature more recently made jump 
after it ; and now Art scandalously imposes (by a factitious stone) 
on the m.eek visitor. 

7. Cascade du Dard, close to the preceding, highly pictures- 
que. Direct, from Chamouny, f hr. : across the Bridge ; path r. 
for 10 min., then 1. 

8. Glacier des Bossons, close to both the preceding, w^ell 
worth a view. The three can be easily commanded in 3 hrs. 

9. Buet, 10,000 ft.— Ascent by Tete Noire or Servoz, p. 159, 170. 

ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 

Who has not made it pleasantly with Mr. Smith? (The Editor 
here offers his tribute of hearty regret for his loss.) Nevertheless, 
^vixere fortes ante Agamemnona.' The first man on the top was 
Jacques Balmat, of Chamouny, in 1786. He disclosed the way to 
Br. Paccard, who fell exhausted on the ascent, but was finally 
helped up by Balmat. The next year, the French Naturalist, De 
Saussure, followed : some stones yet mark his cabin on the Col 
du Geant. In Sept., 1859, Messrs. Tyndal and Frankland pitched 
a tent, slept, and remained 20 hrs. on the top. — Top, 16,000 ft. 

1st route — the ordinary one — from Chamouny (Mr. Smith's). 

1st day to the Grands Mulcts, where there is a cabin. 

2nd, to the Top, and back to Chamouny, arriving about 4 p.m. 

Guides, 100 fr. each : each tourist must take two : the following 
were Mr. Smith and his three Companions' expenses, Aug. 2, 
1851, — (it may now be ' done ' for about half, — ) 



Provisions 582^ fr. 

16 Guides 1600 

ISPorteurs 108 

1 Boy . . , . . . 4 

3 Mules 18 



Broken lantern . . . . If fr. 
Milk in chalet .. .. 1^ 

Extra-pay to Porters . . . . 5 
Expense at Pavil. des Pelerins.* 16 
Nails for shoes . . . . 2 



Total, 2338 fr. 75c. ; i. e.=about 58-i fr. each tourist. 

2nd route — from Cormayeur, p. 183. Same tarif, etc. 

3rd route — cheaper — from St. Gervaix, p. 169 (Messrs. Hudson, 
Kennedy, & Co.'s). Their book should be read, " Where there's a 
will, there's a way" (Longmans, London). 

Routes from Chamouny. 



To Martigny— by the Col de Balm, 1 
day, p. 158. 

by the Tete Noire, ibid. 

To the GL St. Bernard, ibid. 



To Annecynnd Chamhcry, 3 days, p. ISO. 
To Cormaj/ciir (2 days), Aostn, Turin ^ 

etc., p. 181. 
To Geneva^ one (lay, p. 167. 



* Mysterious. 



174 



ANNECY. 



LYIIL GENEVA and LYONS— CHAMBEEY—TUEIN. 
Pass of the Mont Cenis into Italy. 

Time— By rail and dil., 28 hrs., i. e. one day and nigbt. Posting, the same. 
By rail and voiture, 2 days. 

Scenery — Very fine : involves various approaches to * the Eack 
of Mt. Blanc' 

Geneva to Aix — 1st ivay. By Annecy, 8 hrs. 
Dil., morning and evening, between Geneva and Aix. 
The services are well appointed, and the officials most obliging. 

Geneva, 1200 ft., page 137. Messageries Generales, 87 Hue 
du Rhone. 

10 kil. (6 mis.) St. Julien — Savoy (French) frontier. Passport. 
The Mt. de Sion, 2550 ft., is ascended, fine \'iews. Cruseille, 
petty town, is passed. Immediately after, is 

16 kil. (10 mis.) The Bridge of La Gaille (Suspension)— a 
splendid work of art, spanning a gorge 700 ft. deep. 

The Bath-house, below, extraordinarily placed, oiTers every comfort to the 
seeker for a pleasant sojourn, scenery, or health. 

The TFaters, 3P, Thermal, are sulphureous, alcaline, gaseous, ferruginous, 
with glairine in enormous proportion : tonic, solvent, aperient, diuretic; highly 
efficacious in rheumatism, nervous, lymphatic, digestive, female, and skin-dis- 
orders, etc. 

17 kil. (11 mis.) Annecy, 1400 ft.— Pop. 7000. 
Hotel d' Angletehre, best. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral. It contains a Sanctuary. 

2. Church of St. Francois de Sales. Here his relics are. 

Excursions — 1. To the Castle of 3Ienthon, b\ mis. L, looking 

out on the lake from its mountain-niche, the birth-place of 

the noble Founder of the Hospice of the Gt. St. Bernard. 

His burial-place is at Lausanne. 

2. To Chateau Duing, r., well-placed, frequented by Pen- 

sionnaires. Boat, there and back, 8 fr. 
To Ckamouiiy and to Corraayeiir, see next section. 
32 kil. (20 mis.) Aix-les-Bains, see below. 



Geneva to Aix — 2nd way. By Culoz. 5 hrs. 
Geneva-and-Lyons rail, p. xlvi, Iviii. 

From Paris to Culoz, by Macon, rail, 12 hrs. 
From Lyons to Culoz, rail, 2.^r lirs. From Geneva to Culoz, rail, 2 hrs. 

Culoz Junction: the above routes to it described fully, p. 15. 
The Rhone is crossed — fi'ontier of Savoy. Extremely beautiful 
onward [sit on the r.) along the Lac du Bourget, opposite the 
Mont du Chat, see below. 



AIX-LES-BAINS. 



175 



1 J hr. rail 65 kil. (40 mis.) Aix-les-Bains— Pop. 4500. 

. Hotel Jandet, first-class, admirably situated opposite the Ca- 
sino, most attentive, trust-worthy, and excellent. Pension advant- 
ageously. 

Hotel Royal. An arrangement in advance is recommended. 
Pensions, and Villas to let — 

Maison de VArc Homain, well situated, near the Baths, quiet. 

Maison Duvernay, enlarged, embellished, in a fine position, and 
of high character. Arrangements for apartments, cuisine, etc., 
can be made according to requirement, well and reasonably. 

Houses of Business — 

Physicians — the most distinguished and skiifnl are — 

— Dr. D'Avat, Medecin de 1' Etablissement Thermal. 

— -Dr. A. Dardel, Medecin de F Etablissement Thermal. 

—The Baron Despine, M. D., Physician to the Royal Establish- 
ment, has studied in England, and speaks the language perfectly. 
His enlarged public spirit has done much for the city. 

Pharraacie de V Etciblissement Thermal — Pichon, Chemist, of es- 
tablished reputation, worthy of confidence. Homoeopathic pre- 
parations, etc. Depot of the Mineral Waters. 

Museum of Wax-works, illustrative of the action of the Waters 
upon disease— is open pohtely to inspection at the Baron Des- 
pine's. Place Centrale. 

Illustrated Local Guide ^ by the 
Baron Despine — excellent. 

The Roman 'Aquae Gratianse.' 
Inhabitants extremely well-look- 
ing. Situation charmingly pic- 
turesque. Season— May to Octo- 
ber, inclusive. Annual Visitors — 
4000. 

The Casino embraces Reading- 
room, Balls, Band, etc. 

The RoyalEstabhshment of the 
Baths is well w^orth a visit. Its apparatus is the most complete 
in Europe. ' The Enfer ' (Hell) should be seen. 

Fishing in the Lake, first-rate. Salmon, ti'out, j^crch, lotto, etc. 
Baths sulphureous, saline, and ferruginous; temperatures 10 
112^, 116o Fahr. ; useful for disordered digestion, asthma, 




Arc Romain. 



176 



CBLVMBERY. 



ulcerations, swellings, rheumatism, gout, cutaneous, ner^'ous, and 
female diseases. 

Sights — 1. Roman antiquities — 1: Yapour-bath. 2 : Ionic temple. 
3: Arch of Triumph. 

2. Monastic remains — at Haute Combe, on the opposite side of 
the lake : boat there and back, 8 fr. — Cistercian convent, Gothic, 
1225, the ancient place of interment of the Royal Family of Savoy: 
restored to its original by the King Charles Fehx. 

Hannibal's passage is supposed to have been made by the Mont 
du Chat, behind Haute Combe. 

Ascent of the Mont du Chat, 5000 ft. Leave Aix at 11 at night. Boat across^ 
Mule-rd. up. Eeach the top at 4 a.m. for sun-rise. Fine view. 

To the Cascade de Gresy, f hr. on Geneva-rd., picturesque. Here Marshal 
Xey's sister perished, under the eyes of the Queen Hortense, June 10, 1813. 

To Lyons, down the Rhone. Picturesque. Steam daily, in 9 hrs. Best taken 
only to Lagnieux, 4 hrs. ; 1st place, 5 fr. ; 2nd pi., 3 fr. Omnib. thence to Amherieu 
railway station for Lyons, Geneva, or back to Aix, p. 15. 

Tlie Grotto La Balme, \ hr. from Lagnieux (where guides are), is a 'belle hor- 
reur ! ' 3 mis. in extent, with stalactites, lake, boat, etc. 

From Aix-les-Bains onv^-ard. 
Eail continued. Sit on the r. Open to !Modane. 

f hr. rail. 14 kil. (8 mis.) Chambery— Pop. 15,000. 

Hotel del'Europe, first class, well-kept, and of high character. 
Quiet, and attention. And reasonable prices. 

Hotel de Fr^ince, near the Station, fine any situation, first- 
class, new, clean, reasonable, host experienced and most anxious 
to please. 

Houses of Business — □ ^es Chateau 

Bankers — Antonioz and Gil- 
let, near Cathedral. 

Physician — Dr. Jarrin, Prin- 

cipal Physician of the Army 'en £lg^ill„p!:!!l% .Boulevards 

retraite, Chevalier of St. JNIau- D— ^ 



Charmettes 

Cathedral 



rice, St. Lazare, etc., 56 Place H. del' Europe H. de France Railway- 

St. Leger, of the highest stand- B^^t streets are markedUms 

ing and amiability. du Monde Elephant Fount * 

Pharmacie distinoruished bv many public honours, has existed for 

more than three centuries. Its special Dialytic Preparations forrheumatism, 
gout, sciatica,— its Elixir for indigestion, dysentery,— and its Ergotine for he- 
morrhage, etc.,— are worthy of notice. 

Fharmacie—BobQYi, Professor of Chpnistry to the University.^ 

Library, Boohs, ^laps, ^^c. — Perrin, ' Sous *les Portiques.' ^ His 
Charts of Savoy and Piedmont are of the rarest merit ; and his Or- 
nithological works magnificent. 

Capital of Savoy. Manufact. gauze. Wine— Montmehan. In- 
habitants extremely handsome. 

Sights — 1. Fontaine cles Elephants, memorial to M. de Boigne, 
who made a soldier's fortune in the service of a Mahratta Prince, 



MT. CEXIS PASS. 



177 



Hence, straight up, passing ^ Sous les Portiques,' an arcaded 
street, to 

2. Hums of the Ducal Chateau, 1230. And Gothic chapel, with 
fine stained windows. 

3. Cathedral : Gothic : worth heing seen. 

Excursions — -1, To ' Zes Charmettes,^ 1 mile, — the menage of 
Claude Anet, Rousseau, and Mme. de Warens (his ^maman 
Eoute — Past Theatre to Casernes (Barracks), 5 min. ; then 1. 
along Boulevards and trees for 6 min. ; then, 2 rds. ; to the r. 
'aux Charmettes 20 min. the house, r., now M. Raymond's. 
Open to visitors. 

2. To 'Le Bout du Monde,' 3 mis. By the Turin-street, 
Paubourg Montmelian, hamlet of Leysse, over the bridge, and 
into the cul-de-sac of the Doria. Highly romantic. 

3. To the Grande Chartreuse, 4 hrs. diive. And on 

To Grenoble and Lyons, see page 16. 

To Chamouny and Cormayeur, see below and next sect. 

Castle succeeds castle — Batie, Chignin, Montmelian, Carbon- 
niere, etc., the beacon-towers of the Middle Ages, lighted up before 
advancing foes. 

f hr. 15 kil. (9 mis.) Montmelian. — Lm. 

Often besieged by the French in assailing Savoy. 

I hr. 10 kil. (6 mis.) St. Pierre d'Albigny, village. — Bin. . 

To Chamouny and Cormayeur, see page 180. 

I hr. 3 kil. (If ml.) Ghamousset. 

To Chamouny and Cormayeur, see page 180. 

1 J hr. 45 kil. (28 mis.) St. Jean de Maurienne — 

Hotel. Very bad. Sleep rather at Chambery — 

i hr. 13 kil. (8 mis.) St. Michel— 

f hr. 17 kil. (11 mis.) Modane — tolerable hotels. 

Rail ends. Still more striking scenery onward. Dil. over the 
Mt. Cenis. Stupendous railway-tunnel through it, in construcdon. 
Past the immense fortification of I'Esseillon, and ' Devil's Bridge, 

29 kil. (18 J mis.) Lanslebourg, 4500 ft.— 

Hotel. 

Commencement of the ascent of Mt. Cenis, 6800 ft. Fine road : 
bordered by houses of refuge, as usual. Napoleon I. determined, 
and Fabroni constructed, it. 

Tarif between Lanslebourg- and Susa, per kilometre — 
Post horses, 30 c. each. 

Carriage, 15 c. ; Postilion, 12 c; Sledge in winter, 15c. 

Time — Lanslebourg', up to * Post-house' — carriage, 4.^ hrs. — walking, \\ hr. 

' Post-house ' down to Susa . . 2 \ hrs. . . 4 hrs. 

^ac/f— Susa up to 'Post-house' . . .. 6"! lirs. . . 5 hrs. 

* Post-house' down to Lanslebourg .. l| hr. . . 2 hrs. 

At St. Antoine's chapel, close to the old bridge of Lanslebour g 
travellers used to hear Mass before adventuring the Pass ! A 
Priest is still obliged to say it there if required. 



178 



XT. CEXIS PASS — TUPaX. 



3t tirs. b}" caniage (1 hr. by easy foot-path from the bridge, 
across meadows) up to Refuge Xo. 20. 

The occupant of a Refuge ' enjoys' free lodging, fael. and 36 fr. 
a-month, for succom'ing the unfortunate and mending the road ! 

\ hr. higher, Refuge Xo. 18, 'Ramasse' — Top of the Pass, 
6800 ft. The Mountain rises still higher, to 11,700 ft. 

(Reversing the route hence to Lanslebourg, 2300 ft. below — 
carriage, 1 i hr. ; foot-path, hr. ; sledge, 15 minutes I) 

i hr. fui'ther — 

13 kih (8 mis.) Post-house — and um, ' Mont Cenis.' 

— ml.) Hospice — designed by Charlemagne, restored by 
Napoleon I, tenanted by soldiers and monks : — the latter lodge 
travellers, and the former demand their passport. Height, 6300 ft. 

14 kil. (8| mis.) Molaret village. — Lm. 
10 kil. (6 mis.) Susa, 1600 ft.— Pop. 2000. 

Hotel de Fraxce, best, reasonable prices, host anxious to 
please. Horses and carnages are always certabi to be found here 
for the Mt. Cenis. One may safely arrange to sleep. 

The Roman * Segusio.' Grandly, imposingly situated. 

To Briancoiiy Grenoble, Lyons, by the Mt. Genevre Pass, dil., p. 16. 

To Turin, rail on. Scenerv extremelv beautiful. 

if hr. rail. 54 kil. (33i mis.) Turin,*Ital. Toiino, 800 ft. 

Pop. 180,000 R. C. Manufact. Silk, etc. Capital of Sardinia. Situation charming, 
on the Po. View of the range of the Alps, incomparable. 

Hotel de l'Europe. ^ 

Hotel de Loxdres, Piazza di Castello, in the best position, pro- 
mises every comfort and accommodation \\i\h moderate charges. 
Cafe Sax Carlo, Piazza San Carlo, good. . 
Restalhaxts, many and admirable, in the Yia di P6. 

Economists can breakfast at the Cafes, coffee, bread, butter, for 
60 c. : and dine at the Restaurants for 2 fr. : -^rd of the prices of 
the Hotels. Ices, 25 c. Cup of coffee Chiccliierino), 20 c. 

' Grissiniy — bread, in long crispy sticks, invented by a Physi- 
cian of the name, for easy digestion. 

Passports may be \'isecl. Ministers reside here for 
(^) England. (-) France. 

Omnibuses — per com'se, 10 c. From the Genoa station, 20 c 
From the Novara station, 30 c. 

Cittadini (cabs) — 1 horse, per course, 1 fr. ; per hr., 1^ fr. 

Professional Mejt, etc. — the following are the most distinGruished— 

Physician — Dr. SapoUni, 0 ^'ia Goito, ofhigti standing, understands English. 

Physician and Surgeon — Dr. Pacchiotti, isurg. to the Osp. Maggiore St Gio- 
vanni, 17 Via del' Ospedale, highly skilful, amiable, speaks English well. 

Dentist— M. A. Masson, of Paris, VJ Via di Porta Nuova, experienced, and 
moderate. 



TUEIN. 



179 



Surgeon- Dentist— Dx. Martini, 54 Via di Po, talented. 

Pharmacie Bonzani, 19 Via Dora-Grossa, has English Medicines, compounds 
according to the London Pharmacopoeia, is of high standing. 

JTonueopaihic Preparations— Cerruti, 33 Via di Po, the first and best house. 
General Apothecary— Cerruti, Via di Po, is highly recommended. 

Sights—- T^lNoTararAron" Mlfan" River Povs g 
1. The Castello, C^W- irathedral ^ ^ Superga 

' PHa770 Madama ' '^^ ^ Royal Garden d 
ea rctiazzo iViaaama l Palace ri □ Theatre Royal 

since its inhabitation L .-Casteiio : c]^ ^ ^- r. 

1 r\ -^iv ri ' 7^ : n : — Ponte di Po 

by a Queen-Mother; m "^S : ^ • Via di Po (-1 



-J Post . d Capuchin 

-f] Carignano Theatre <l Mount 



-1 



Museums <> 



Public Garden 
>^ Vaudois Church Iron Bridge 



the middle of the prin- 
cipal Place. Open from !^ ^^^l^- 
10 till 4. Entry free. | 

Gallerii of Faintmr/ssl-^ a.o^ i 

raf\f\\ Arsenal 
(bOO) ; the arrangement |«3 Piazza 
constantly changing; I'| d'Armi 

catalogues maybehad. gSn" " " cL^a and Alessandria, 
i he hnest are — " Streets are marked thus 

1st sala (room). P. Veronese, ' Christ's feet Avashed.' Gaudcnzio Ferrari, ' St. 
Paul's conversion;' 'the Crucifixion;' 'the Burial.' — 2nd. Jlaphael, ' ^J.adonna. 
della Tenda,' famous for contesting with four others elsewhere to be the original. 
Titian, 'Christ.' — Srd. Bassano, 'Market.' P. Veronese, ' Findhig of Moses;' 
* Christ's feet v/ashed.' Titian, several early ones. Canaletti, ' Turin.' Carlo Dolce, 
'Virgin.' — ith. Bassano, ' Forge.' Bellini, 'Holy Family.' Ruhens, ' ditto.' Andrea 
del Sarto, ^ ditto.' Carlo Dolce, ' Chnst,' 'Virgin.' 6^wercmo, ' Prodigal son.' — 5th. 
(^wercino, ' David.' i^/'a/zcm, ' the Burial.' Titian, ^ Paul HI.' Maphael, 'yirgin' 
(early style). Garofalo, 'Christ disputing.' Daniel da Volterra, 'Crucifixion.' — 
6th. AlhanVs works, very fine. Luini, 'Judith and Holofernes.' — 1th. Vandyck, 
'Holy Family.'— 8//i. Dutch Schooh— 9^^. Rembrandt, 'Portraits.' P. Potter, 
' Cows.' Vandyck, ' Children of Charles I.,' ' an enchanting picture' (Ruskin). — 10?^. 
Hemling, 'the Passion,' extraordinary. Savoy Battles. — Wth Dutch School. — • 
12th. Copies from Florence, on porcelain. — \?>th. Dutch School. — llth. Grand 
Portraits. 

2. Falazzo Reale, Royal Palace, opposite preceding ; rich furni- 
ture, scarce^ equalled elsewhere in Europe ; marqueterie, particu- 
larly beautiful ; old silk draperies ; from 2 to 300 old Etruscan 
vases. Garden (giardino) pretty. 

3. Duomo, Cathedral, behind preceding. Above the altar, the 
Sudario Chapel, said to preserve a fourth part of Christ's shroud. 

There are a hundred other Churches, of no interest beyond rich 
decoration. 

4. Armeina, beside the Palace ; a rare collection of antique 
Arms. Entry free ; attendant, with catalogue, advisable, 1 fr. 

5. Teatro Regio, chief Theatre ; beside last. 

6. Teatro Carignano, close to the Piazza ; very good. 

7. Museo Antichitd, close to last Open from 10 till 4. Free. 
Antiquities of note — 

(Ground floor.) Egyptian — very old : Black stone altar, 3000 years B. c. Greek 
and Roman statues: Cupid asleep. — (Upper floor.) Egyptian: Table of Isis ; 
long thought invaluable, a fabrication of Hadrian's time : Teira-cotta deities : Papyrus 
representation of the Judgment of a Soul. 

8. Museo delle Storie Naturale, same roof as last. Minerals 

Q 



180 



TUEIX. 



and insects — very good. Megatherium (sloth), and Glyptodon 
(armadillo), the most perfect extant. Open from 10 till 4. Free. 

The Via di Po, a long majestic arcaded street leads from the 
Piazza di Castello to the Piazza Yittorio Emmanuele and 

9. Bridge of the Po. A striking point of view. To its r. is 

10. Cajmchin Convent, on a mount ; J hr. Grand view ft'om its 
terrace — the Alps, Mt. Blanc, Monte Rosa, etc. 

11. Royal Mausoleu77i of La Super ga, 8 mis. To the 1. of bridge. 

On a mount, 2400 ft. Vowed to the Virgin by the Due of Savoy, 1706, for the 
victory which recovered his dominions from the French. View from its cupola, 
perhaps the firmest in Europe. — (') Carriage there and back, 2 horses necessary, 20 fr. 
(2) Omnib., twice a-day, to Madonna del Pilone, whence a pleasant walk. '(^) Boat 
(bocchetta) from the bridge, for about hr., 1 fr., to where asses (somarelli) are kept 
generally for the ascent, hr. up, 1^ fr. — Allow 3 hrs. thither, and 2 hrs. back. 

Close to the Genoa Railway-station are the following — • 

12. Castello del Valentino, old. Antique interior, well preserved. 

13. Giardino Publico — an evening resort. 

14. Tempio Valdese, Yaudois' Chm'ch. (Vaud. Pop. 1500.) 

15. Piazza d'Anni, the chief summer-promenade. At 6 p.m. 

Routes from Tmin. 



To , Arena, Lago Maggiore, rail, 3| 

hrs. ) 
To Milan, rail, 3\ hrs. > p. 208. 
To Genoa, rail, 4 hrs. ) 
To Chamouny, next section but one. } 

\ 



To Nice — hy the Cor niche Pass; rail 
to Genoa, 4 hrs. ; dil. to Xice, 22 
hrs. ; p. 203, 218. 

hy the Col di Tenda ; rail 

to Cuneo, 2J hrs. ; dil. to Nice, 19 
hrs. 



The Vaudois Country 
May be thoroughly explored in a week. Full itinerary, Maps, etc., in ' Practical 
Guide for France.' * 



LIX. SAVOY SIDE OF MONT BLANC. 

Cross Routes from preceding section. 
Scenery, on all, of the highest order of romantic beauty. Map, p. 167. 

To Cha:viouny and Coii:mayeur. 

From Annecy. 

Carriage-rd. along the Lake, past Chateau Duing, and Fa- 
verges, to 

23 mis. TJgine — Pop. 3000. Four ways on. See below. 

From Chambery. 

1 hr. rail to St. Pierre d'Albigny. Thence, carriage-rd., hilly,— 
best starting-point for Pedestrians. Otherwise, on to 

\ rail, Chamousset, — best starting-point for Drivers, parallel but 
level rd., dils. daily to Moutiers (in 6 hrs.), passing 

16 mis. 3 hrs.' drive. Albertville, 1800 ft. — From hence — 



SAVOY SIDE OF MONT BLANC. 



181 



1. To Chamouny, by Sallanches or St. Gervaix. 

5 mis. Ugine, 1500 ft.— Pop. 3000. Mule-path on. 

3 hrs. Flumet, 3000 ft.— Pop. 1000. Char-rd. on. 

2 hrs. Megeve village. Hence a choice of two ways — 

Left. Right. 

2 hrs. Sallanclies, p. 168. 2 hrs. St. Gervaix, p. 169. 

6 hrs. (18^- mis.) Chamouny. 6 hrs. (18f mis.) Chamoimy. 

2. To CJiamoimy, by Contamines. 

From Albertville, (Ugine, 5 mis. more,) above. Mule-path to 
12 mis. Beaufort— Pop. 2000. Foot-path up to 

4 hrs. Col du Bonhomme : whence, past 

2 hrs. Contamines — to 

7 hrs. Chamouny — fully described, p. 185. 

3. To Cormayeur, 

From Albertville, (Ugine, 5 mis. more,) above. Castled route 
Carriage-rd. to Bourg. St. Maurice. Dils. daily, in 3 hrs. 

3 mis. Conflans — Pop. 1300. Beautiful situation. 
10 mis. Petit Coeur village. Waterfall — fine. 

3 mis. Aigueblanche village. Pretty. 

3 mis. Moutiers — Pop. 2000. — Inns. Dils. daily, see above. 
Capital of the Tarentaise. An historical Episcopal succession 
for 1373 years. Salt-works, 99^ Fahr., extensive. 
10 mis. Aime — Roman remains. 
8|- mis. Bourg St. Maurice, 2700 ft.— Pop. 3300— 
Carriage-rd. on, in progress. — Hence, past the Cramont, to 

8 hrs.' walk, Oormayeur, described fully in next section. 



LX. THE BACK OF MONT BLANC. 

TUBIN—AOSTA—COBMAYEUE,— CHAMOUNY. 

The finest approach to Hhe Monarch of Mountains.' 
Maps, p. 167, 192. 

From Turin to Ivrea, rail, in 2 hrs. Ivrea to Aosta, dil., in 9 
hrs., 8 fr. Aosta to Cormayeur, dil., 7 fr., — voiture, in 6 hrs., 
per horse, 15 fr. (no addition for return, if wished^ From 
€ormayeur, mule, to Chapiu, 8 hrs. ; to Contamines, 8 nrs. more ; 
to Chamouny, 7 hrs. more. 

Turin, 800 ft., page 178. Rail on (Novara line). 

1 hr. rail. Chivasso Junction (for Arona and Milan, p. 20S), 

q2 



1S2 



THE BACK OF MONT ELAXC. 



The scenery is level, but Alp-bounded distantly — no induce- 
ment to walk — to 

1 hr. rail. Ivrea— Pop. 8000. ,0n the Dora. Manufact. cotton 
and n'on. 

Hotel de l' Europe, best. Magnificent situation. Fixt prices. 
Sight — The Castle, now a Prison : fine old architectural exterior. 

The Yal d'Aosta opens. The route deepens in beauty continu- 
ally. The heights are castled with feudal ruins, 
r. Montalto Castle. 
12 nils. Pont St. Martin village— 

To Gressonay, etc., up the Val de Lys, 13 nils., p. 192. 

2 mis. Fort Bard, 1000 ft.— 

Here the Austrians held at bay for a vreek the army of Bona- 
parte, when on its way to IMarengo in 1800. 
5 mis. Verrex callage, and Castle, 1200 ft. 

To Gressonay, etc., up the Yal Challant, 9 hrs., p. 192. 

A stern gorge onward. St. Germains Castle. Bridge des 
Salassins — celebrated Usselle Castle. 1. 

6i mis. St. Vincent \dllage, 1600 ft.— 
Hotel de l'Ecu de Fea^sce, best. 

To Gressonay, etc., by the Col de Jon, 7 hrs., p. 192. 

U ml. Chatillon, 1700 ft.— 

Hotels. ' Bad ' — Mm-ray. ' Dear ; not fixt prices ' — Bsedeker. 
Palais Royal, best. 

Tarif — voiture, 1 horse, to Aosta, 12 n'. 

To Zermatt, over the Pass of St. Theodule, p. 163. 

7 mis. Fenis Castle. (Beyond, a side-path up to) 

4 mis. Quart Castle — most pictorial. (Side-path do\\TL to) 

4 mis. Aosta, 1800 ft.— Pop. 6000. 

Hotel de la Colhonne, Post, best. Capital cosine. Great 
desire to please. 

The Roman ' Augusta' — conquered by that people, B. c. 28, and 
its inhabitants sold into slavery : rebuilt by Augustus. 

Situation — highly picturesque, at the junction of the Dora and 
Buttier, and at the foot of the three loftiest European mountains, 
Blanc, Rosa, and Cervin. 

Sights — 1. . City-ivalls, flanked with Roman Tovv'ers. 

2. Ruined Por^r^ss 'Bramafam,'near the City gate — where Comte 
Rene de Chalans, 11th cent., causelessly jealous of his wife, the 
Princess Maria of Braganza, starved her to death — whence * Bra- 
mafam' (j^atois) 'the cry of hunger.' — The architecture of the 
double south gate is worth notice. 

3, Toiver of the Leper, a hundred paces further — the scene of 



COEIMAYEUH — THE CRAMONT. 



183 



the celebrated story ^ Le Lepreux ' of Comte Xavier le Maistre : 
also called the * Tower of Terror,' because popularly supposed to 
be haunted. 

4. Roman Bridge — from which Time has stolen its river. 

5. Triumphal Arch to Augustus : Corinthian order, with Doric 
spirit — disfigured by a head-dress of modern utilitarianism. 

6. The Cathedral has little pretension. 

7. Stone-Cross, in street of the Hotel de Yille, commemorative 
of a vain attempt of Calvin to proselytise, and his flight, p. 157- 

Tarif —Yoitme, 1 horse, to Chatillon, 12 fr. ; to Cormayeur — 2 
persons, 12 fr. ; 3 persons, 15 fr. ; 4 persons, 20 fr. 

To Martigny^ by the Val Pellina, Col de la Fenetre, and Val de Bagiie, 2 
days ; grand ; p. 157. 

To the Hospice of the Gt. St. Bernard, char-rd. to St. Remy, mule-path 
thence. 7 hrs. up. Described fully, p. 158. 

Post-rd. ends. All is now the grandest m.ountain scenery on- 
ward: quite repaying the walker. 
24 mis. Cormayeur, 3^00 ft.— Pop. 2500. Baths. 
Hotel Angelo, best; spacious rooms, good cuisine, magnifi.- 
cent position, and fixt prices. 

An ascending-point for Mt. Blanc, p. 173. 
ExcUESiON — Ascent of the Cramont. Mule-path — ■ 

1 hr. Pre St. Didier, village, and baths, 92^ Fahr. Su- 
perbly situated, with views of Mt. Blanc. 
Up the gorge beyond : and into a forest. 
1 hr. Path breaking off, and ascending r. 

1 hr. Open meadows and chalets. Foot-path on — 

2 hrs. Top of the Cramont, 9000 ft. One of the noblest 
views of Mts. Blanc, Rosa, Cervin, &c. Saussure records 
the six hours he spent here, as the finest of his life. 

Cross Route — To JBoitrg St. 3£aurice, for Chambery. 

Pass of the Little St, Bernard, by which Hannibal entered 
Italy. ♦ 

Mule-path, 9 hrs. ; Mule, 8 fr. ; 4 fr. return ; 2 fr. trink- 
geld. Continuation of preceding, from 
2 hrs. The forest. 

1 hr. La Balme village. Beyond, the ravine which checked 
Hannibal's army. Past La Taille and Pont S errant, villages ; 
and the ' Cirque d'Hannibal,' — stones, marking his encamp- 
ment. 

2 hrs. Hospice, founded by the same philanthropist as 
the Gt. St. Bernard. Beds. 7000 ft. Annual passers, 10,000. 

4 hrs. Bourg St. Mam-ice, p. 181. 
At Cormayeur, the voiture-rd. ends : mule-path only onward. 

To Martigny, by the Col de Ferret, mule-path, 14 hrs., p. 157. 
2b the Gt. St. Bernard, by the Col do Ferret, 10 hrs., p. ibid. 
. by the Col dc Serena, 10 hrs., ibid. 



184 



cor:mayeur. 



Note. — Three days must be allowed with Mules, sleeping at 
Chapiu and Contamines, between this and Chamouny or St. 
Gervaix : but a good Pedestrian might do it in two, sleeping 
at Mont Jovet. 

(Or, crossing the Col du Four or Col d'Anclave, below, Corma- 
yem- to Contamines, 1 day, — Contamines to Chamomiy, |- day.) 

Guide almost necessary forward. Into the magnificent Allee 
Blanche 1., and along the very base of Mt. Blanc, past the Lake 
Combal, and over 

4 hrs. Col de la Seigne, 8000 ft. — colossal and close com- 
mand of Mt. Blanc — which, from hence, Eitter considers only 
equalled in the world by the Himalaya, and Saussure compares to 
an artichoke with its leaves erect. Down to 

1| hr. Mottet, 6000 ft.— chalets and heds. 

Between Mottet and the Col du Bonhomme, short-cut, 3 hrs. over the Col du 

Four, 8500 ft., severe. 
Between Mottet and Mont Jovet chalets further on, short-cut, over the Col 

d'Anclave, exposed to small avalanches of stone. 
Both the above avoid the angle, the easier and ordinaiy way, by 

2 hrs. Chapiu, 4800 ft. — inn, better. 

Here the path tm-ns at an acute angle r., doubling Mt. Blanc. 

To Bourg St. Maurice, see above and preceding section, mule-rd., 1., in & 
mis., — forming a 2nd route between this and Cormayeur, and Chambery. 

2 hrs. Col du Bonlioninie, 8000 ft. 

Two rocks, like towers, represent the Bonhomme, ^ good-man ^ 
{Incus a non, his storms being particularly dangerous, — two Eng- 
lishmen perished in one of them, Sep. 3, 1830, — ) and the Bonne- 
femme, his help-meet. 

(In proceeding hence, inversely, to Chapiu, &c., take, of the 
three paths, the r.) 

The way zigzags, inclining r. A path on the 1., from and 

To Beaufort for Annecy, Chambery. Described fully, preceding section. 

Both r. and 1., wonderful ^dews from the ridge. The Plain des 
Dames follows, with heap of stones contributed by the passers 
to the dim myth of a lot of ladies having here perished in a 
tempest. Level, 6500 ft. 

1 hr. Mont Jovet — chalet, and heds. Fine view forward. — 
The best Fall of the Bonnant, is 10 min. to the r. of the route be- 
tween this and 

1 hr. Nant Bourant, 4500 ft.— chalet. 

Char-rd. on. Also, a new mule-path over the Trelatete triple ' ) 
Glacier. — Note the gorge below the bridge. 

2 hrs. Contamines, 3000 ft. Village. Pop. 250. 
Hotel. Better go on to St. Gervaix. 



THE SWISS-ITALIAN LAKES, 



185 



1 J hr. Bionay village, 2S00 ft. 

To Chainouny by the Col de Voza, mule-path, r., 6 hrs., — better taken from 

f hr. St. Gervaix village and Baths, 2000 ft., p. 169. 
If reversing this route, see Note under ' Cormayeur.' 



LXI. THE SWISS-ITALIAU LAKES. 

Direct route between England and Italy. 

Connecting- the three principal Lakes, the following scheme will be found useful. 

Beginning at Como — See the Lake of Como, steam, 4 hrs. Disembark at 'Me- 
nag-gio— voiture to Porlezza, 1^- hr. Porlezza to Lugano, steam, 1 hr. Lugano to 
Magadino, voiture, 3 hrs. (or to Luino, voiture, 2h hrs.) Then, the Lago Maggiore 
from Magadino to Arona, steam, 4 hrs. 

Beginning at Maggiore — The above may be equally well reversed. 
The subjoined rough-draft, of relative positions r. and 1., will be useful. 

Lago Maggiore, Lake of Como, 

Locarno * 5 ^ * Magadino Gravedona * ? > * Colico 

Ascona* ^ 5 Roadto Bellinzona I i 

Brissago* < > Rezzonico* > > 

Canobbio * ^ > Villa Vigoni * ^ ^ 

< ^ * Maccagno Roadto Lugano > > 
Canero* ^ < * Luino Menaggio* ^ ? * Varenna 

Intra - ^ > Road to Lugano Majolica > IZZC^Logo di Lecco 

Pallanza* > > r Cadenabbia * ^ J * Bellagio 

Fariolo * < ) rr Villa Sommariva i I * Villa Serhelloni 

Simplon road \ ^ ^^^^ Tremezzo* ^ > * Villa Melzi 

Baveno* cO; (Borroraean IslesO) Lenno* > I 

Stresa* < i (Comacino Isle^) ^o> * Villa Pliniana 

Belgirate * < ^ ^ * Torno 

< > > S * Villa Tanzi 
Lesa* < ^ * Villa Pasta 

< > 5 > * Villa Taglioni 
Meina* ^ S Villa Pizzo'" ^ ^ * Villa Bocarme 

< > * Angera' Villa d'Este * ) > 
Arona* ^ 5 Rail to 3Iilan Villa Raimondi 1 ^ 

Rail to Turin, <> > > 

Genoa, and Milan 3 S * Sesto Calende Como * < P Rail to Milan 

1. Lago di Como. 
Lombard Territory throughout. Formerly Austrian : now Sardinian. 

Steamers between Colico and Como, touching at the intermediate stations, 
twice a- day. 

Time occupied, 3 hours.— Fares, 1st place. ..4 fr. 40 c. 2nd place.. .2 fr. 35 c. 

Gondolas — 1 zwanzig. (85 c.) per hr. per boat, and the same 
for each rower. Half-a-day, 9 zw. Entire day, 15zw. Agree before- 
hand. (Add h zw. gratuity for a short row ; 1 zw. for a long.) 

Scenery — extremely beautiful in every part, — wild, rich, bright, 
and villa'd. 700 ft. above the sea. Char-rd., r., round one side 
of it— post-rd., 1., round the other, the high-rd. of the Stelvio. 



186 



LAKE OF COMO. 



From Chiavenna, Spliigeii, RagatZy Zurich, to 

1. Colico, see page 75. A few indiiferent houses. 

r. Gravedona — the next largest town to Como and Lecco. 

r. Monte Legnone, 8500 ft. 

r. Rezzonico — ruined castle of 13th cent. And the Sasso 
Rancio, * orange rock,' where many of the Russians, passing in 
1799? were precipitated into a premature grave. 

r. Menaggio — 

The Villa Yigoni, i hr. above Menaggio, at Loveno, contains 
many fine Modern Italian marble Sculptures. 

Cross Route — To Porlezza, on Lake Lugano, 9 mis., p. 97. 

Omnib. of steamers, 3 zwanz. Drive, 2 hrs. (^Yalk, 3 hrs.) 

Yoiture, 1 horse, 6 zwanz. (5 fr.) Thence, steam to Lugano, 

in 1 hr., 2 fr. 
1. Varenna — Magnificent situation. 

Regoledo, still more magnificently situated on the heights above Varenna. 
Hydropathic Establishment, vast, 200 rooms, admirably kept. Lots of 
amusement. Pension thoroughly comfortable, and moderate. For scenery, 
health, and a satisfactory sojourn-', this cannot be too highly recommended to 
the Tourist. 

Colossal tunnels on the route of the Stelvio. Fine cascade. 
Cross Route — To Lecco, by Stelvio rd., see below, 14 mis. 
On to Bergamo, 24 mis., p. 196 ; for Venice or Milan. 
1. Bellagio — On a promontory. The best Hotels on the lake 
are here. 

Ancien Hotel and Pension Genazzini, very good. Kept now 
by its Proprietor, M. Melchisedecco Gandola. A house of old- 
established character, capital cuisine, liberal treatment, and de- 
lightful situation. 

Hotel de la Grande Eretagne, new, very good. Reasonable 
Pension, Kept by the former Landlord of the Genazzini. 
Thoroughly recommendable. 

One of the most charming positions in the world. 
The Villa Serbelloni is well worth visiting for its gardens and 
view — ascend to the highest point : fee, 1 zwanz. 

The Villa Melzi, close by, is famous for the richness of its 
flowers, and open to inspection. 

Excursion — To Lecco, along the other branch of the lake 
called Lago di Lecco, 14 mis., by steam, Satm'days only, 
quite meriting to be explored per gondola, or voiture from 
Varenna, see above. 

r. Majolica — ^Delightfully placed. 

r. Cadenabbia — (For Hotels, see * Bellagio ' and ^ Regoledo.') 
The Villa Sommariva is well worth seeing for the Works of Art 

contained in the lower rooms, open to the public : fee, 1 zwanz. 

Thorvvaldsen's frieze, ' Alexander's Triumph ; ' Canova's ' Psyche/ 



LAKE OF COMO. 



187 



^ Magdalen,' ' Palamedes,' etc. Built at a cost of £32,000. Late 
the property of Princess Charlotte of Prussia — whence re-entitled 
'Villa Carlotta.' Now, her husband's, the Duke of Saxe Mein- 
ingen. 

r. Lenno — Ancient ruins. The traditional residence of both the 
Piinys. 

r. Comacino — An isle formerly fortified. 

1. Torno — Villa Pliniana, so named because Pliny mentions its 
petty waterfall. 
. From hence the lake is still thicklier studded with villas. 

1. Villas Taglioni and Pasta, named from the possession of these 
European celebrities. 

r. Villa d'Este, once the sojourn of Queen Caroline. 

Most picturesquely opens up 

Como — Pop. 20,000 ; ' almost entirely of the class of travelling 
pedlars, w^ho go out into the world to sell stucco figures and 
such small wares,' of whom about 3000 are in London. 

Hotel Coeona, outside the town, Milan Gate, quiet, reason- 
able, and recommendable. 

The birth-place of Pliny the Younger. 

Sight — The Cathedral, 5 min., 1., from the steamers' landing- 
place, extremely beautiful. 

To Camerlata station, 1 mile; whence y&U. to Milan, If hr. ; p. 98. 

To Lugano, 20 mis,, omnib, from the Porta di Milaiio, 3 fr. ; or dil., p. 07 ; 
or to Capolago only, 11 mis,, whence steam to Lugano. Or by Menaggio, p. 186. 

To Magadino, Bellinzona, Lucerne (by St. Gotthard Pass), or Jiagatz and 
Zurich (by Bernhardin Pass), in continuation from Lugano, 

To Chiaoenna, Ragatz, Zurich, by Spliigen Pass, p, 73, see 'Colico' above. 

To Farese, 17 mis,, p. 190. 

2. Lago di Lugano. 

Described fully, p. 97. 

3. Lago Maggiore. 

Swiss Territory— Magadino, Locarno, Ascona, Brissago. The rest Sardinian, 
viz.— r,, Piedmont,—!., Lombardy (formerly Austrian). Plan, p. 185. 

Steamers from each end thrice a-day, calling at all the principal places. Time 
oetween Magadino and Arona — 4 hrs. Fares— lot place, 4 fr. 30 c. ; 2nd pi., 2 fr. GO c. 

Kail from Arona to Turin, Genoa, Milan. 

Rail from Angera to Milan, shorter, in construction. 

Scenery— The northern half, severe and grand ; the southern 
rich and gentle. Length, 50 mis. Breadth on the average, 3 mis. 

Advice — The lower half may be visited downwards, but the 
upper half should be visited upwards. 

From Bellinzona {Zurich, Ragatz, Lucerne, Lugano, Como, Milan), dils. to 
and from all the steamers, 1^ hr. drive, 2 fr., to Magadino and Locarno : p. :>7. 
Post-tarifs from Magadino and Locarno, 2 horses— To Bellinzona, 20 fr. Faido» 
GO fr. Airolo, 70 fr. Hospenthal, 100 fr. Fluelen, 1-tO fr.— To Lugano, 4>) fr, Como, 
80 fr.— To Spliigen, 100 fr, Coire, 180 fr, Kagatz, 200 fv. — Chcvaux de rcvfort, G 
fr. each, per stalion. Postilion, 1 fr, per horse, per station. 



188 



LAGO MAGGIORE. 



1. Magadino — Hotel Bel^^edeke, new, well situated, host most 
anxious to please. Post. Pension advantageously. Special Voi- 
tures for the St. Gotthard, \^dthout change of carriage and at fixed 
prices. 

Situation very grand. Carriages disembarked. 
To Bellinzona, etc., see above. 

Steam. ^ hr. r. Locarno— Pop. 2700 E. C. 

Hotel Della Coeoxa, very well reported of, the landlord most 
anxious to give every satisfaction. Enghsh spoken. 

Situation superb. The mountains grouped in a recess beliind, 
of fine effect. Carriages disembarked. 

The Protestants were expelled in the 16th cent., and, settling at 
Ziirich, transferred thither that spirit of the looms which is so 
noticeable a feature in the latter thriving canton. 

View from the Church of the Madonna del Sasso, very fine. — 
TJie Market, every alternate Thursday, is quite a fancy-ball in 
costumes : of which the Festival of St, Ilary, Sept. 8, is a more 
aristocratic development. 

To Bellhizona, etc., see above. 

To Domo d'Ossola, by the Yal Vigezzo, 11 hrs. Eomantic. Eoug-li path. 
2 hrs., Intragna — inn. 2 hrs., Borgnone. 3 hrs., Malesco — inn. Carriage-rd. on. 
J hr., Sta. Maria Maggiore — ifui. 3^ hrs., Domo d'Ossola, p. 166. 

J hr. r. Ascona. 

J hr. r. Brissago. A fine serrated ridge behind — hke the 
Gothic skirt of a lady^s petticoat turned upside dovvn. 
~ hr. r. Canobbio. A gorge behind. 
The lake is crossed. 
12 mill. 1. Maccagno. 
~ hr. 1. Luino — 
Hotel. 

To Lugano, p. 97, 19 mis., omn, in connexion with the steamers —Toiture, 2 
horses, 12 fr. 

The lake is crossed. On the r. is passed a little isle containing 
two moss-grown castles : the haunt of the Mazzarda, a family of 
the Rob Roy caste, who laid the lake under contributions in the 
15th cent. Close to 

X hr. r. Canero. E omantic, at the foot of a gorge. 

^ hr. r. Intra — Fine situation. 

Hotel du Lion d'Or, well placed on the lake, new, good, host 
trusty, desirous to please. 

Carriages disembarked. Capital rd. all round the rest of this r. 
side of the Lake — a charming walk or drive. Intra to Pallanza, 
below, 2 mis., ^ hr. drive. Immediately opposite 

1 hr. 1. Laveno — The finest view on the Lake. 

Albehgo del IMoeo, well reported of, recommcndLible. 



LAGO jVIAGGIORE — THE SIMPLON. 



To Varese, 13 mis., a beautiful drive, omn. twice daily. Thence, to Como, 
17 mis., or to Milan, 32 mis. See p. 190. 

~ hr. r. steam. (2 mis. car,-rd.) Pallanza — Well situated. 
Hotel Univekso, recommendable house, charming view. Here 
places for the Simplon dils. can be assured. 

Magnificent view into the opening of the Simplon Pass. 

To the Lake of Orta (Omegna), 11 mis., omnib. daily, between 12 and 2 p.m., 
in 2 hrs. ; passing Fariolo below. Voitures to Orta, 17 mis., 3 hrs.' drive, — 1 horse, 
15 fr. ; 2 hor., 25 fr. ; (5 fr. more to return). See next section. 

To the Borromean Isles and back, boat, 5 fr. 

The Isles may be visited from various points. 

The Borromean Isles — four in number : the only one worth 
visiting being 

The Isola Bella — ' as bella as a little rocky islet in a lake 
can be, decked out amidst scenery of a totally difierent character ; 
like an old court lady in silks, laces, diamonds, hooped petti- 
coat, and white satin shoes, by some mischance squatting down 
all alone upon a rock in the midst of a Highland loch.' 

Gardened and castled by Count Vitalio Borromeo in 1670. 
The castle is rich in paintings, through which the visitor is hur- 
ried, fee 1 fr. — and the garden rich in exotics, through which the 
same double process is re-imposed. 

The steamers call, going and returning: so that it may be 
reached by one, and left by another. 

The following places on the Lake are equally on, p. 168, 

The Simplon eoute. 

J hr. r. steam. (5 mis. car.-rd.) Fariolo — Junction with the 
Simplon-rd. 

Hotel. None recommended. 

J hr. r. steam. (3 mis. car.-rd.) Baveno — 

Hotel. None recommended. 

\ hr, r. steam. (3 mis. car.-rd.) Stresa, 650 ft. — 

Hotel Eoyal, very good, great attention, and desire to please. 
Advantageous Peiision, Moderate prices. Wine — Nebbiolo, 

Carriages disembarked. Here are the Villas of H. R. H. the 
Duchess of Genoa (the ancient Palais Bolongaro) and the Duke 
de' Vallombrosa, The nearest point 

To the Isola Bella, boat, 2 rowers, 2 hrs., 5 fr. Each succeeding hr., 1 fr. 
To Orta, over the Monterone, and to Varallo, next section. 
To Domo cVOssola, voitures —1 horse, 15 fr. (1 person), 20 fr. (2 persons) ; 
2 horses, 30 fr, 

f hr. steam. (10 mis. car.-rd.) Arena — • 

Hotel a la Poste, high character, well-placed; comfort, at- 
tention. Baths. 

The only Hotel recommended. 
Carriages disembarked. 



190 



LIGO DI YAEESE. 



Sights — 1. Holy Family^ of Gaudenzio Ferrari in the 
Church of Santa ]\Iai'ia — admirable. 

2. Chateau (ruined). Birth-place of Cardinal Borromeo. 

3. The Cardinals Status on a hill. 1 ml. distant, huilt (a built 
statue!) ^by desire of friends/ ^nz. his own family and the good 
folks of Arona, 66 ft. high I — ' a huge enormity.' The curious can 
^ get inside ' of this great m.an, ascending the interior by ladders ; 
and discover that such a cranium may contain seven men of these 
degenerate days. 

ExcTESioxs — To Orta and Varallo. See next section. 



To Genoa, rail, 4f hrs. V See p. 207, 203. } should be preferred to the Sesto Calende 



Ang-era — Immediately opposite Arona, 
Rail to Jvlilan (2 hrs.) in construction. 
Sesto Calende. — Frontier of Lombardy. 

From, hence there is nothing of note (except Soma village, 
where Scipio first encountered Hannibal, and was defeated) 

To Milan, 6 hrs., dil. 1 p.m. and 11 p.m., p. 192. 



From Lago ]Maggiore to Como and Milan. 
Dils. daily, in connexion ydth the steamers — Laveno to Varese, 
2\ hrs, : Yarese to Como, 3 hrs., — to Milan, 4 hi's. Scenery, 
extremely beautiful, 

Xiaveno, Lago Maggiore (Lom^bard side), 650 ft. — preceding 
section, p. 183. 

The road ascends continually to 

10 mis. Comerio, 1450 ft. (800 above the Lake.) Charming 
view. Down to 

3 mis. Varese, 800 ft.— Pop. 8000. 
Hotels. ' All bad ' — ^Murray. 

Sight — La Madonjia del JIo?ite, 5 mis. distant, a Sanctuary, 
A. D. 397, commemorative of St. Ambrose's extermination of the 
Arians : 14 chapels illustrative of Di^nne Joy, Grief, and Glory. — 
Car.-rd. past Rofarello ^dllage, 2 J mis. : thence ponies, H fr., to 
ascend. Superb view. 

From Yarese on, several dils. daily — 





4. Lago di Varese. 



To Como, by Olgiate, 3 hrs., 17 mis. To Milan, by Saronno, 4 hrs., 32 mis. 



OKTA — ^VAILILLO. 



191 



LXII. OETA Am VAEALLO. 

From the Lago Maggiore, see preceding section. 

1st way. By the ^fountains. Grandest route. 

Stresa, Lago Maggiore, 650 ft. — 

Over the Monterone^ 5000 ft., mule-path to Orta, 6 hrs. 

Magnificent view of the Alpine range — from the Orteler Spitz, 
r., Stella, St. Gotthard, Gries, Leone, Simplon, Moro, to Mt. 
Eosa; besides seven lakes, and the plain of Lombardy to 'the 
Dome ' of Milan. Guide, 4 fr. 

Orta, 1200 ft.— 

Hotel. None recommended. 

A village, on a most lovely lake, girt by the grandest moun- 
tains. 

Sights — 1, Isola di San Giulio, picturesque isle: antique 
Chapel, 4th cent. : well worth seeing. 

2. Sacro Monte^ above the tovvm, — delicious views. 20 chapels to 
St. Francois de Sales; Nos. 13, 16, 20 are the most graphic; fee 
for opening, 1 fr. ^ 

To Arona, carriage-rd., 12 mis. 

To the Simplon (Gravellona), carriage-rd., 10 mis. 

To Varallo, by carriage-rd., 24 mis. See beloAv. 

From Orta, boat across the p~-o Varallo l Simplon road 

Lake, passing the Isle San ! xhe'coima | 
Giulio, to Pella, ^ hr. From | 
Pella, " ^ I™ 

Over the Colma, 5000 ft,, | The Monterone 

mule-path, to Yarallo, 5 hrs. 3 i ^^^^ 

Magnificent view — of the Arona Stresa Baveno 8 
same extent as from the Mon- o Paiianza 
terone, but differently disposed. S^!^"^'^^? " " 

Varallo, 1300 ft.- ^^^"^^'^^ 

Hotel de la Poste, best. 

Situation, majestic and pictorial. 

Sight — The Sacro Monte, 'Sacred Mount;' 50 chapels, with 
life-sized representations, in statuary and colours, of Scripture 
scenes — most remarkable. 

To Orta, by carriage-rd., 24 mis. 

To Arona, carriage-rd., 24 mis. See below. 

Eoutes beyond Varallo. 

To Gressonay, Val d'Aosta, Vul Anzasca, e/c— extraordinarily fine sccnciy 
on aU. 



) Orta -■ Gravellona 



o Fariolo 



^192 



Through the Val Sesia, beautifully wooded; grand views of Monte Rosa. Car- 
riage-rd. past Scopa (mn) to Piode, *12 inls. : voit., 9 fr.: 2^ hr.'s drive. Char-rd. 
to Moglia (inn), 4J mis. Mule-path on. 3 hrs'., Riva, 3G00 ft.; (inu. not good.) 

From Biva—l. 2 mis. higher, to the r., is Alasrna (inn. good): vrhence--(a) 
To Gressonay, bv the Col d'Ollen, 8800 ft.. S hrs.— (b) ToBorca, Val Anz.isca, bv 
the Turlo Pass, 8800 ft., 7 hrs., p. 164— Both severe but fine. 

From Rita— 2. Up the Col 
Dobbia, 8000 ft., (inn,) 5 hrs. — — 
Thence down to Gressonay St. 
Jean, 4500 ft, (good inn, and 
guides,) 2 hrs. 

From Gressonay — 1. To the 
high-rd. of the Val d'Aosta, page 
182 : see rough plan attached. At 
Brussone is a fair inn. 

2. TotheSt. Theodule Pass. 

""by the Cimes Blanches, a hard Char-rd. 

•day, p. 163. ' Mule-path... Verrex 



St. Vincent 


g Brussone \ 


High-rd.« 


Col de Jon 
3 hi's. 

Val 

5 


Col de Pcanzola 
4 hrs. 

Val 
5 

Challant 
hrs. 


de Lys 
hrs. * 



Pont St. Martin 



2nd way. By the Caj'riage-rd. Very beautifal. 
Aroiia, Lago Ma^giore. 650 ft. I (Omitting Yarallo,) 

24 mis.. 7 lirs/ diive, Yarallo. Arona. as before. 
24 mis.. 7 lirs,' di'ive, Orta, [ 12 mis.,. 3 hrs.' drive, Orta. 
From Orta, carriage-rd. continued. 

Orta, 1200 ft, see above. Hence, along the Lake (if by boat, 
1| iir,, 2 fr. per rower) to its foot at 
*6 mis., I lir. di'ive. Omegna — 

To Pallanza] Lago Maggiore. omnib. daily, at 6 a.m., in 2 hrs. 

4 mls.,^hr. drive. Gravellona, 700 ft. — On the Simplon. p,166. 
2 mis., J tir, drive. Fariolo, Lago Maggiore, 650 ft. — whence 

To Pallanza, Intra, Baveno, Stresa, Arona, etc., see preceding section. 



LXm. MILAN— VENICE. 
MILAN.— Ital. Milano— Pop. 170,000 R. C 

Hotel de la Gr.i^'de Bretagxe, excellent, well placed for 
the Sights, of established character, and most comfortable. 

Hotel Mahln^o, central, with comfort and economy. Extreme- 
ly highly reported of. Private omnibus to and from all trains at 
the Railway stations, 

tloTEL de la Ville, costly. 

Physician— ^,Dt. Capelli, No. 1 Corsia del Giardino, close to La Scala ; 
speaks English Avell. Of long experience. Every confidence may be placed in 
him. 

^pof/i(pcflrv— Stagnoli, No. 12:2 Corsia del Giardino, of the first character. Has 
English Medicines. 

Pharmacie Riva Palazzi— close to La Scala ; very good ; has English Medi- 
cines, etc. 

Bureau de aha n ye— Treves, opposite the Duomo, No. 996, is the most advan- 
tageous. 

Tourists prest for time should see— The Duomo, and roof. S. Alessandro, the 
richest church. S. Ambrogio, the oldest church. S. Maria Grazie, for its fresco. 
La Scala Theatre. Brera, for paintings. The Arch of Peace. 

Post-office — Letters reach England the fifth day. 



mLAN. 



193 



Theatres — ^1. La Scala — opera. Second largest in Europe (St. 
Carlo at Naples, first) ; 3500 seats. Shut from July i to Sept. 1. 

2. jPicz/Z(^o, Fantoccini. Decidedly ' fun,' and ' jolly.' Puppet per- 
formances perfectly wonderful. 

3. Canohhiana^ opera, close to the Palace, very fine. 

4. Radegonda, near Duomo. — 5. Carcatw, etc. Opera and ballet. 
Fiacres — 1st hour, 2 fr.; afterwards, i| fr. Half-da}^, 12 fr., and 

1 fr, to the driver. Between Rails and Hotels, 1 fr. 

Omnibuses— Per course, 25 cts. of France (=30 Austrian cts.) They traverse 
the whole city to and from the rails. 

Diligence-bureau — Merzario, Goutrada Bassano, near La Scala. 

The Mediolanum of the Romans : the Paris of dress in the 15th 

cent., giving Europe the ' modes ' — whence the term ' Milliner,' 

Successively ruined by Attila, by fire, and by Frederic Barbarossa : 

whence few ancient remains. 10 gates. 

Arona, Tarin^ Genoa Rail ~ ■ 
Simplon-E-oadOArch of Peace 
Piazza d'Armi 



[Porta Vercellina'] 

S. Maurizio 
S.M. Grazie ^ 



□ Brera 
La Scala □ - 



Rail to Como 

{Porta Nuova^ 
Public Gardens 



S. Yittore >^ 



Ambros. | Library □ 



S. AmbrogiojJ^ 

S. Alessandroji 
MHAK. S. Lorenzo )5< 

S. Eustorgio)^ 



Cathedral 



Corso Francesco 



[Porta Orient ale] 
Venice Rail 



S.M.Passione>Jcj 



Palace t Arciivescovado [Porta Tosa] 
=»^j Post I^S. Bernardino 

I j ^S. Antonio 

' )5<S. Nazaro 

[Porta Rommia] 
Streets are marked thus » 



S.Celso^X 
[Porta Ticinese'] 



Sights — I. Cathedral, 'Duomo:' white marble: restored gra- 
dually from designs by Bramante, Leonardo da Vinci, and Giulio 
Romano. Cruciform : 485 Eng. feet long, 252 broad — 287 at the 
transepts ; height, inside, at the nave, 153 ft. — outside to the spire, 
355. Near the entry — a line which the sun crosses at noon, cu- 
rious. At the corner of the r. aisle and transept — bronze tomb of 
Oiovanni de' Medici, after Michael Angelo. Behind the choir — 
remarkable tomb of Card. Carraciolo; famous statue of St. Bar- 
tholomew ; fine south-east window ; gorgeous tomb of Visconti, 
one of the earliest remains. The roof, a mass of the most beautiful 
open-work, Belov/ the choir — chapel of St. Carlo Borromeo, con- 
taining eight bas-reliefs of his * eventful history,' and his corpse 
visible to confirm them. From the south transept — 158 steps to 
the summit, with its ' forest of white marble pinnacles, the most 
beautiful roof-scenery in the world.' 

Close to the Cathedral are the two following — 

2, Palazzo Imperiale, modern. Inside, some modern frescos. 

3. Arcivescovado. Gallery of paintings. The best are — B. Cam- 
pus 'St, John.' G. Camjn, 'Virgin.' Gaudendo Ferrari, 'Nativity.' 
Titian, ' Adoration of the Magi.' Cam. Frocaccini, ' 12 Apostles.' 
Zeon. da Vinci, ' Virgin.' Falma VeccMo, ' Woman taken in adul- 



194 



MILAN. 



tery.' Giddo, ' St. Joseph,' Michael Angela, a ^ Battle.' Morazzone, 

* Massacre of the Innocents;' 'Jacob and the Angel WTesthng/ 

Campi, the ' Agony.' Cam. Procaccini, ' Raising of Lazarus,' 
Albert JDurer, ' St. Jerome.' B. Campi, 'Christ carrying the Cross,' 
Titian, a ' Holy Family,' 

Opposite the Cathedral, north side, run the gi'eat business-streets 
— Contrada c/e' Borsinari, — Piazza de^ Mercanti, in which is- the old 
Law-Com't, now a Market, — Contrada di Santa Ilargherita, book- 
shops, etc. ; to the 1. of last, the Ambros, Library, see below ; to 
the r,, up the Contrada to the Piazza and the 

— Theatre of La Scala : a little beyond which, 1., is 

4. TJie Brera. Open from 10 till 3, Books— 170,000. 

1000. Coins. Medals. Paintings — 400 : in 12 rooms. The best 
are — 

In 2 Antichambers : frescos. No. 33, Luini^s * Nativity;' 34, 
' Bm'ial of St. Catherine ; ' 36, ' Yirgin.' 50, Gaudenzio Ferra7i\ 
' Adoration of the Magi.' 66, Liiini, * Flying Angel,' 

In Boom I. No. 6, Titian, ' St. Jerome.' 18, Dojneniehino, 

* Virgin.' — II, 58, Timoteo Vite da Urhi?io, ' Annunciation.' 61, 
P. Veronese, ' Marriage in Cana.' 63, Carpaccio, ' St. Stephen.' 
70, Tintoretto,^ ' Holy Cross.'— III. 78, Carlo Crivelli, ' Virgin, Sts, 
Peter, Dominic, Geminiano,' in 3^ parts, old, 1482. 90, G. Bellini ^ 
' St. Mark preaching,' 97, G, Sanzio (Raphael's father), ' Annun- 
ciation.' 112, P. Veronese, 'Christ at the Pharisee's.'— IV, 136, 
Vandyck, 'Portrait.' 142, F. Francia, 'Annunciation.' — V. 166, 
Palmezzano, ' Virgin crowned,' — VI. 180, V. Ca^yaccio, a 'Bishop,' 
185, Alhani, 'Loves, dancing.' — VII, 214, Guercino, ' Hagar,' made 
a great impression on Ld, Byron. 226, A7idrea Mantegna, Dead 
Christ,' fine, 230, ' aphael, 'Espousal of the Virgin,' famous,— 'VIII, 
235, Raphael, ' Figrues,' in sepia, fine. 247, Luini, ' Madonna.' — 
IX. 279, Sassoferrato, ' Virgin,' much criticised, — X, 296, Lattayi- 
zio Gamhara, ' Portrait,' fresco, rare. 331, Francesco del Cairo, 
' Portrait,' 332, Salvator Rosa, ' Landscape,' — XL 343, Gaudenzio 
Ferrari, ' Martyrdom of St, Catherine,' excellent. 358, Andrea da 
Milano, ' Holy Family ' (2), his only two remaining paintings, 
1495, 361, Leo. da Vinci, ' Virgin,' — XIL Modern works. 416^ 
Leo, da Vi^ici, ' Christ,' an alleged study for the famous ' Last 
Supper,' see below. 

Distant from the centre, but in this direction, is 

5. The Arco della Pace, founded by Napoleon I to open the 
Simplon — finished to glorify the Peace of 1815. On top — Peace, 
and 4 Fames, cost £40,000. Below — Battles, etc. Total cost, 
£143,000. 

Near the Vercellina gate are the five following — 

6. Convent of Sta. Maria delle Grazie. In the refectory — Da 
Vinci's world-discussed ' Last Supper,' which the wall decompos- 
ing, and daubers restoring, have ruined — 'immortal, though a ruin/ 
And a fine fresco of the Crucifixion by Montorfano, A. D. 1495. 



MILAN. 



195 



I In the Church attached, — at 4th chapel, r„ Gaudenzio Ferrari's 
jl frescos of the ' Passion,' fine, 

|! 7- Church of San Vittore al Corpo — next grandest to the 
i Duomo. It was here, and no where else, that St. Ambrose re- 

I pulsed the Emperor Theodosius red from the slaughter of Thes- 
is salonica. 

8. Church of Sanf Amhrorjio — an erection of the middle-ages : 
full of testimonies to early Church practices. Lectern alleged to 
be Moses' Brazen Serpent. High-altar, of old gold-work and pre- 
cious stones: at back {iee^b fr.), the life of St. Ambrose, 12 bas- 
jj reliefs, 

j 9. Church of S. Maurizio, commonly ^ Monasterio Maggiore, ' 

II Notable frescos of Luini : r,, 4th chapel, ' Christ bound,' ' Mar- 
Ij tyrdom of St. Catherine,' ' Instruments of the Crucifixion,' In 
I' choir, Christ's ' Agony,' ' Death,' ' Burial,' ' Resurrection.' — 1., 3rd 
) chapel, ' St, John, martyr,' 2nd, ^ St, Stephen, martyr,' 

■ 10. Palazzo Litta, opposite preceding. Paintings, Farmcqgiani- 
' no^s ' Venus and Love,^ Correggio, ' Marsyas.' Limii, a ' Christ ; ' 
I and series of Frescos, good. Salvator Rosa, 'Battles.' Titian^ s 
' Mistress.' 

Near the Cathedral again, in the Contrada S. Margherita — 

11. BiUloteca Amhrosiana, A. D. 1629. MSS, of the utmost value, 
j and palimpsests (i. e. old parchments, on which a second writing 

has overlaid the original, which is consequently invaluable when 
restored). Open from 10 till 3. Noticeable — the 'Codex Atlantico' 
(designs of Leonardo da Vinci.) Petrarch's 'Virgil,' with notes. 
Illuminated ' Homer ' of the 4th cent. Letters of Tasso, Galileo, 
etc, 

12. Church of S, Alessandro, the richest in ornament. Nothing 
of special note. 

Near the Ticinese Gate are the three following — 

13. Colonne di San Lorenzo — '16 mournful Corinthian columns of 
the 3rd cent, amidst the modern gaietj^ of the Corso di Porta Ti- 
cinese : the principal remains of the city's ancient grandeur. 

14. Church of San Eustovgio, A. D. 320 — the Church of the In- 
quisition in the 13th cent. The best monumental show after the 
Cathedral. By the Ticinese Gate. 

15. Church of Sta. Idaria presso San Celso. Magnificently 
sculptured exterior. A few paintings of merit within. 

16. Church of San Nazaro, — remarkable for the entrance- 
chapel, by Bramante, forming a family mausoleum of the Trivulzii, 
who rest, sculptured on their tombs around, 

' Simple, severe, sublime.' 

17. Church of S. Antonio — has seven chapels gorgeous with 
marbles and paintings. 



1 96 BERGAMO — BEESCIA — SOLFERINO. 

18, Church of San Bernardino, founder of the Gt. St. Bernard* 
Chapel attached with a scuU-hning. In the Yerzaro. 

19. Church of Sta. Maria clella Passions. Outside — rehefs of the 
Scourging, Thorn-crowning, and Burial of Christ. Inside — paint- 
ings of the ' Last Supper,' by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and the ^ Agony,' 
by Salmeggia. 

Eoutes from Milan. 

To Melegnano Battle-field (12 mis.), where the French and Sardinians de- 
feated the Austrians, June, 1859, see ' Practical Italy,' p. 120. 



To Como, p. 98, rail, IJ hr. On, 
To Zurich— hj the Spliigen Pass, dil. &c., 

31 hrs.; by the BernhardinPass, 31 hrs. ; 

p. 73. 

To Lucerne, by the St. Gotthard Pass, 

dil. &c., 27 lirs., p. 92. 
To the Lago Maggiore — Sesto Calende, 

dil., G hrs., p. lilO; Arona,rail, 2-^ hrs., 

p. 207, 208. 
To Varese, dil., 4 hrs. Thence to 



Laveno (Lago Maa:giore), 2 hrs., p. 
190. 

To Genoa, rail, 51 hrs. P oao 

To Turin, rail, 3| hrs. \ 

To Geneva — by the Cenis Pass, rail and 

dil., 25 hrs. ; by the Simplon, 38 hrs. ; 

p. 144. 
To Cremona, dil., 12 hrs. 
To Pavia, dil., 4 hrs. 
To Venice, rail, 9 hrs., as follows: 



2| hrs. Bergamo— Pop. 32,000. 

AlbePvGO d'Italia, best. 

Most pictorial, on a steep. Full of mediaeval remains, Duomo, 
Palazzo Vecchio, Churches, &c. 

To Lecco, Lake Como, 24 mis., dil., 5 hrs., 3 lire, p. 186. 

i hr. Brescia— Pop. 35,000. 
Hotels, None recommendable. 

The Roman ^ Brixia.' Sacked by the French mider the savage 
Gaston de Foix, in 1512: 46,000 slain. The Chevalier Bayard 
was wounded, and tended by a noble Lady and her Daughters, 
whom he preserved from insult, and when presented by the former 
with a large sum as his booty, gave it to the latter as their dowry. 

Sights — 1. Museum of Roma,7i Ruins. 

2. Church of Sta. Afra, Frescos. Titian's ^ Woman taken in 
adultery.' P. Veronese's, and Tintoretto's, ' St. Afra, Martyr.' 

3. Church of San Nazario, Paintings : altar-piece by Titian. 

4. Palazzo delta Loggia, Piazza Vecchia : Cinque-cento, fine. 

5. Pi'ivate Collectiofis of Paintings — many and fine. 

6. Caynpo Santo, the first Italian cemetery: well laid out. 

i hr. Lonato station — Here branches off, r., the high-road 

To Solferino Battlefield, on the direct road between (4 mis.) Cafttiglione, 
(5 mis.) G'uidizzolo, and (5 mis. further) Goito,—the line of the 200,000 Aus- 
trians forced back by the 200,000 French and Sardinians under Napoleon 
ill, June 24, 1859. Length of the Battle, from sunrise to sunset. Slain and 
wounded, 20.000 on each side. Line of the Austrian retreat — Solferino, Gui- 
dizzolo, Volta (3 mis.), Valleggio (3 mis.), Villafranca (3 mis.), Peschiera, Ve- 
rona, and Mantua : see below. 

10 min. Desenzano station — Passport for Sardinian Lombardy. 

Along the Lago di Garda, very beautiful ; sit on the 1. 

~ hr. Peschiera. — Good head-quarters for excursions on the 

Lake. Steamers to Riva, at the opposite extremity, in 3i hrs. 

Debouchure of the Mincio. New Frontier. Sardinian Lorn- 



VEHONA — MANTUA — VICENZA — PADUA. 



197 



'bardy is crossed into the Austrian famous Quadrilateral. 
Passport. 

To Solferino Battle-field, see above and below. 
1 hr. Verona ' la degna ' — Pop. 60,000. Beautifully situated. 
Albergo delle Due Torri, the best. 

Sights — I. Romaii Ainj^hitheatre, a. d. 81. One of the finest. 

2. Tombs of the Scaligers (raised from common soldiers to the 
rule of the city) — curious : near Sta. Maria I'Antica. 

3. Churches best worth seeing — Duomo, San Zenone, San Fermo 
Maggiore, Sant' Anastasia, San Bernardino. 

4. Alleged House of the Capulets^ — now, Osteria dell' Cappello. 

5. Doubtful Tomb of Juliet, — in the Orfanotrofio Garden. 

To the Tyrol, rail from Verona, to Trient and Botzen, in 6 hrs. 

Excursion — To Mantua: by branch-rail, passing 

Villofranca, r., where Napoleon III and the Emperor of Austria con- 
cluded the Campaign of 18.59, immediately after Solferino Battle above, 
by Austria ceding Lombardy as far as the Mincio to Sardinia ; still re- 
servin;g to herself the Venetian district, and the famous Quadrilateral ot 
Peschiera, Verona, Mantua, and Legnago. 
Solferino may be visited from this : see above. 

\l hr. Mantua, Ital. Mantova 'la gloriosa Pop. 28,000. 

Albergo della Croce Verde, best. 

Flat. Bravely defended against Np.poleon T, in 1796, and 
surrendered only from famine. (Omnib. from rail, 2 mis., J hr.) 

Sights — 1. Palazzo of the Gonzagas, its splendid rulers, 15th 
— 18th cent, 500 rooms : immense : extraordinary. The 
ruined part especially interesting, 

2. Torre della Gabhia, opposite ; — iron-cage for criminals. 

3. Palazzo del Te : outside the city. Paintings and frescos. 

4. Duomo, ' Cathedi'al.' Interior spacious and lofty. 

To Cremona, 5^ posts, 48 mis., dil. 7^ hrs., p. 123.> . p , r.^Ur » 
To Parma, 6 posts, 52 mis., dil., 8 hrs., p. 121. S ^^^^^^'^^ J-^^^^- 

Betvv^een Verona and Vicenza, about half-way, to the south of San 
Bonifacio station, is the Battle-field of Arcole — where Napoleon I 
gained his earliest laurels. 

U hr. Vicenza 4' antica'— Pop. 32,000. 

Hotel de l'Etoile d'Or, best reported of. 

Well situated. Birth-place of Palladio. 

Sights — I. Palaces, numberless, built by Palladio. 

2. Museo Civico, Palazzo Chiaricati : antiquities : and P. Vero- 
nese's magnificent ' Supper of St. Gregory.' 

Walk — To the Monte Berico, J ml. Fashionable promenade : 
admirable church : vast view. 

f hr. Padua, Ital. Padova ' la forte '—Pop. 38,000. 

Hotel Royal de l'Aigle d'Or, opposite Church of Sant' An- 
tonio, restored, moderate, excellent. Pension at fixt price. Do- 
mestics of every nation. 

R 2 



198 



'S'EXICE. 



Sights — I. Palazzo cMla Ragioiie, most extraordinary : the work 
of a travelled Friar, from an Indian model, A. D. 1306 : next, the 
sombre retreat of the ' magician ' Pietro di Abano, 1316 : now, a 
hive of local curiosities. 

2. Church of Sanif Antonio, Interior — unusually rare, gorgeous^ 
and hghted up. 

3. Sciiola, adjoining. Fine frescos of Titian. 

4. Chapel of Sta. Maria deW Arena. Giotto's wonderful frescos 
— the first dawnings of high Christian Art. 

5. Church of the I]remita?ii, close by ; worth seeing, for its struc- 
ture, frescos, and tombs. 

1 hr. Mestre — 

Eailway-bridge, 2^ mis. long, cost £186,666, into 
J hr. Venice, Ital. Yenezia— Pop. 100,000 R. C. 



station f Scalzi 



Canal Grande 



Eialto 
^ T dentin i 
Rocco Frari 

Pantaleone >^ 
Maria^Carmini 

Accademiau 

)5<Xicolo 
Sebastiano^ Trovaso^ 



M. Orto>5<L«. 



Jesuits )J( Scuola J Francesco 

jNIii-acoli ^ >^ Zanipolo >~< 

^Apostoli )55M. Formosa Tigna 
)J( Crisostomo Clock-tower 



. ....... 

— Theatres— • Piazza ; Zaccaria>5< Arsenal 
Post^Salvatore j S. I\Iarco>5^Catliedral Martino 

>5(Stefano )??Moise|n I _ ^ 

^ ^ I n Palace nPrison 

Garden 



Palace 




Pietro 
Castello 



Lagoon 



Grand Hotel Yittorli, close to the Piazza San !Marco, large, 
excellent, anxious to please. 

Hotel de la Yille, Canal Grande^ high prices. 

Albergo Sax Marco, second-class, economical. 

Hotel Royal, Albergo Reale, — 'complaints' — Murray. 

Fro7n the Railway-station to any Hotel — Omnibus-gondola, 60 c. ; 
luggage, 60 c. more. Ordinary gondola, 2 zwanz. 

Gondolas — ' the equivalents of the hackney-coaches of other 
cities ' — Per hour, each rower, 1 zw. Per day, one rower, 6 zw. ; 
2 rowers, 10 zw. This latter is the best mode of sight-seeing, be- 
cause ' from out the wave her structures rise.' 

Valets de 2)lace — 1st day, 4 zw. ; the following, 3 zw. 



VENICE. 



207 



[The numbering of this page is not consecutive, for reasons of typographical 
convenience.] 

Grand NigJit-Festivccl, July 14, Procession of 1000 illumiiictted 
Gondolas up Grand Canal ; 9 p. m. to 3 a. m. 
Fee at Churches, &c, — J zwanziger. 

Theatres — 1. La Fenice: opera and ballet: open, winter and 
spring : 3 zw. (2 J fr.) 

2. Teatro Gallo : opera, second rate ; open, autumn, winter, and 
j] spring. 

Situation — on 72 islands of the Adriatic. *A glorious island' — 
!j Rogers. 'A sea Cj^bele fresh from ocean ' — Byron. ' The only city 
jj in the world which does not disappoint expectation' — Laing. 'The 
sea is in the streets' — but there is a land-passage everywhere also. 

For Venice, — full description. Sights in consecutive order, 
'! Islands, etc., — see 

\ Practical Guide foe, Italy. 

Half-a-crown. 



LXIV. ROUTES of THE UORTH of ITALY. 

The two following lines intersecting embrace the places common 
to all the Routes subjoined. Rail throughout. 
1. Arona to Genoa. 4f hrs. 
Arona, Lago Maggiore, p. 189. 
1 hr. Novara— Pop. 16,000. 
Albergo BELLA ViLLA, ' Antico d' Italia,' best. 
Outside the walls, the Piedmontese were defeated by the 
Austrians, in 1849. — Fine view of the Monte Rosa. 
Theatre: opera. 

Sights — 1. Cathedral, * Duomo.' Altar, magnificent ; sculptures 
of Thorwaldsen. Frescos of Luini, Lanini, Gaudenzio Ferrari. 

2. Baptistery, opposite. * The Passion,' in coloured figures, by 
Gaudenzio Ferrari, striking, graphic, and admirable. 

3. Basilica di San Gaudenzio : superb building : good paintings. 
Its Campanile is seen strikingly from the rail. 

Battle-fields— 

Magenta is on the line between Novara and Milan, next page. 

To Milan, 1^ hr. , see below. | To Turin, 2} hrs., see below, 

Talestro, celebrated for the first encounter of the French and Sar- 
dinians with the Austrians in the Campaign of 1859, the latter be- 
ing defeated, 8000 slain, is passed by the rail between Novara and 

If hr. Alessandria— Pop. 40,000. 

Hotel de l'Univers, best. 

A modern city : built specially to secure the liberties of Lom- 
bardy by the North-Itahan Guelphic States, 12th cent. 



208 



ALESSANDRIA — NOVAFvA — YERCELLI. 



The rail edges the Battle-field of Marengo, where Napoleon I 
defeated the Austrians in 1800. The river ran red. 

To Turin, 2 hrs., see below. | To Stradella, 2 hrs., whence as follows — 

The Battle-field of MontehellOy where the French and Sardinians defeated the 
Austrians, June, 1859, is on the rail to Stradella, and may be visited from Ales- 
sandria above or Novi below. 

To Pavia, from Stradella, omnib. in 2 hrs. 

From Stradella, rail continued, by Piacenza, 2 hrs., to Bologna, 5 hrs. more,— 
whence to Florence, dil., 11 hrs. 

i hr. Novi— Pop. 10,000. 
Hotel de l'Eueope, best. 

To Stradella, rail, as from Alessandria above, 2 hrs., for Pavia, Piacenza, Bo- 
logna, Florence. 

J hr. Busalla. 

f hr. Genoa, next section. 

2. Turin to Milan. 3| hrs. 
Turin, Novara station, page 178. 
i hr. Chivasso Junction — 

To Ivrea, for Aosta, Cormayem*, Chamouny, etc., p. 181. 

\\ hr. Vercelli— Pop. 19,000. 
Hotels. None recommendable. 

Sights — 1. Catliedml, 'Duomo,' 16th cent., Italian. Gorgeous 
tombs of St. Eusebins, the 1st Bishop, 4th cent. ; and of St. Ama- 
deus of Savoy (silver). In Library — Eusebius' MS. copy of the 
Gospels in Latin, the earliest extant. 

2. Church of S. Cristofero. Frescos of Gaudenzio Ferrari, cele- 
brated : 1., Story of the Virgin — her ^ Birth,' ' Marriage,' the ' Na- 
tivity,' ' Adoration of the Magi,' her ' Assumption : ' r.. Story of the 
Magdalen — 'At Christ's feet, listening,' 'Kissing his feet,' * At 
the Cross,' ' Visiting Marseilles ' (traditionary), her ' Assumption.' 

3. Church of S. Bernardino. Fresco of Gaudenzio Ferrari, ' Before 
the Crucifixion,' fine. 

I hr. Novara Junction, see preceding page — 

To Arona, 1 hr. | To Genoa, hrs. | To Milan, as follows : 
The rail between Novara and Milan passes the station and Battle-field of 
Magenta, where one of the earlier successes of the French and Sardinians over- 
the Austrians occurred in 1859. 

1| hr. Milan, page 192. 
Table showing the Direct Routes between other points 

in connexion -with the two above lines of Rail. 
Battle-fields of 1859 on the routes are marked in italics. 



Turin to Arona. 

Z\ hrs. 
Turin. 

13 hr. Vercelli. 
\ hr. Novara. 
I hr. Arona. 



Arona to Milan. 

21 hrs. 
Arona. 
1 hr. Novara. 
Magenta. 
\\ hr. Milan. 



Turin to Genoa. 

4 hrs. 
Turin. 

2 hrs. Alessandria. 
2 hrs. Genoa. 



Genoa to Milan. 

5-[ hrs. 
Genoa. 

2 hrs. Alessandria.. 

Palestro. 

I-,' hr. Novara. 

Magenta. 

Ijj hr. Milan. 



GENOA. 



209 



LXV. GEJfOA. 

Italian, Geneva 'la Superba.' French, Genes. Pop. 100,000. 
Manufact. Filigree .silver ornaments^ 'Filigrana' — price of average workman- 
sMp, 16 frs. per oz.=26j grammes, or about doable the intrinsic value: Velvets— 
pries, from 17 fr. per metre (16 fr. per Engiish yard), 50 centimetres wide, 14 me- 
tres to a dress: Guipure lace : Corala. 

Money— The Genoese sou is equal to 4 centimes only. 

Hotel de la Ville, a superb establishment, formed of four 
Palaces, 200 rooms, with commanding view of the Sea. 

Hotel de la Croix de Malte, admirably kept, and quiet; 
well suited for families ; most attentive, trusty host ; fine view on 
the Port. 

Hotel d'Italie, a fine house, formerly Palazzo Eaggio, Via del 
Campo, highly spoken of, advantageously situated, capital view. 

Hotel RoY.n., a vast house, of high character, clean, and excel- 
lent. Situation and sea-view admirable. The landlady is English. 

Hotel de la Grande Bretagne, 3 Carlo Alberto, immediately 
opposite the steamers' landing ; fine situation and view, with mo- 
derate prices. 

Hotel de France, Palazzo Adorno, 1 Piazza Banchi, a good 
position, '• clean, comfortable, and moderate.' 

Hotel National, near the Railway-station, sea-view, conveni- 
ent and good, with moderate prices. 

Hotel de la Yictoire, central, opposite the Church of the 
Annunziata, close to the Diligences, very comfortable and very 
reasonable. 

Houses of Business — 

Bankers — Messrs. Gibbs and Co. 

Local Physician and Surgeon— Dt. Agostino Bertani, No. 13, corner of Via 
Nuovissima towards the Piazza dell' Annunziata ; very clever, and agreeable, 
and understands English. 

English Physician—Dr. Millingen, late H. E. I. C.'s Medical Service, Physician 
to the Protestant Hospital; 59 Strada Carlo Alberto, S. Tommaso, near the Rail- 
way. 

The Protestant Hospital is well deserving of notice and support. It is 
admirably conducted, much wanted, and has already befriended above 200 
British sailors. 

Tiligree Oniarnents and Jewellery — Carlo Basso, 131 Via Orefici, 
under ' the Madonna,' has one of the best collections of this beau- 
tiful work, and may be entirely depended on for integrity — an im- 
portant matter here. 

Velvet Manitfactiires — Paul Richini, 4 Piazza Campetto, close to 
the Orefici ; the first house both for choice and character. 

English and Geneva Watches, Micsical boxes, ^x. — Dick, 142 Via 
Orefici, opposite 'the Madonna;' of recognised standing, atten- 
tive, skilful in repairs, and reasonable. 



210 



GENOA. 



Confedmiery — Romanengo, Via Orefici ; a handsome shop, and 
show of the candied fruits famous in Genoa. 

Tod-Office — in the Piazza delle Fontane Amorose^ 

British Consul — Strada S. Cattarina, between Carlo FeUce 
Theatre and the Acquasola Pubhc Garden. 

Unites States Consul — Piazza di Acquasola. 

English Church — Casa Bocca, Via Assarotti. 

Passpoi't for Venice — should be vised by the Austrian Consul 
here, if not abeady done. 

Theatres — Carlo Felice : third largest in Italy (see page 193). 

— 'Paganini : near the Post. Opera. 

— Minor : Andrea Doria, Apollo, S. Agostino: all, between the 
Acquasola and Carignano. 

Ormihuses continually between the E ail way-station and Carlo 
Felice direct^ 20 cts. 

Cahs, 1 horse, per course, If fr. ; per hr., same. 

Voitures for Fisa, 8fc. — Conventional Postal service in 22 hrs., 
Office, Piazza S. Domenica, is recommended. 

Roto-boats, 1 J fr. the first hr. ; 1 fr., the succeeding. 

The Palaces are open from 10 till 3. 

'A city of Palaces : ' the ' Bath of Italy* in its ups and dov/ns. 
■ — Held by the French in 1800 ; reduced to famine by the Austri- 
ans and English — 15,000 deaths ; and surrendered. Highly 
picturesque. It should be viewed from the water. 

Female costume charming — a white veil ' pezzotto ' fastened on 
the head, falling, a soft and fleecy framework, round the face. 

Scandalous Tuscan proverb upon Genoa — ' Mare senza pescc, 
monta,gne senza alberi, uomini senza fede, e donne senza vergogna ' 
(sea without fish, heights without trees, men without faith, and 
women without \drtue). 

Eailway Paganini 

station Annunziata Theatre , GENOA. 

«- - — fsam >J< 1 I 1 Fontane Amorose | 

Strada Balbi S. Nuovissima S. Nuova 

r 



Doria 
Palace 

and 

Garden 



Postr 

_ -J Carlo 

Strada di Pre S.Campo S.St. Luca Orefici Felice 



Strada Carlo Alberto ^^^^^^ V 

'Cathedral 



] - Ducal L , ,To Florence— 



□ , 

—To. Nice^ The Port Dogana \ ^ >i<- 

? I Carlo Alberto >J< Ambrogio Carignano 

LanternanMolo Nuovo I.' olo Yecchio s I 1 I I >J< 



Sights — I. TJie chief streets lined tvith Palaces. The first thing 
is to get the one grand impression, by driving, without stop, from 
the Kail to the Carlo Fehce : passing successively — 



GENOA. 



211 



(Alongside the Eail) — Talazzo Doria — labelled outside in Latin, 

* By Divine Grace Andrea Doria, Admiral of the Fleets of the 
Pope, Charles V, Francis I, and his own Countrjr, has built this 
edifice for himself and his successors, that, wearied now after great 
labour, *he may retire to an honourable rest — 1528/ Gardened to 
the sea-shore. 

(In front of the Station, Piazza Acquaverde) — Momment to Co- 
lumbus, born at Genoa, or at Cogoleto near it, m construction. 

(In Strada Balbi) — r. Talazzo Reale {Biirazzo). Eoyal residence. 

1. Universita. Museum of local Birds and Fishes, good. 

1. Fatazzo Giacomo Filippo Durazzo. Famous for its staircase. 
Some good paintings. 

r. Falazzo Balhi Fiovera. Richly furnished. Good paintings. 
In Eoom I., Vandyck, ' Equestrian Portrait; ' Cappuccino, ' Chief 
Butler's dream interpreted by Joseph.' — II., No. 6, Guido, ' Lucre- 
tia; ' 8, Ann. Caracci, 'St. Catherine;' 19, Michael Angelo 
(doubtful), 'Agony;' 20, Yandyck, ' Virgin.'— III., 23, Vandyck, 
' Female.' — IV., 31, M. A. Caravaggio, ' Conversion of St. Paul ; ' 
32, Guido, 'St. Jerome;' Ann. Caracci, 'Magdalen.' — V., 39, 
Guido, ' Andromeda ; ' 45, Bassano, ' Market.' — VI., 71, Tintoretto, 
^ Portrait ; ' 73, Vandyck, ' Virgin ; ' 76, Breughel, ' Temptation 
of St, Anthony;' 82, Hemling, 'Crucifixion;' 88, Guido, 'Mag- 
dalen,' 

1. Church of the Anmmziata, richest in gildings. Built by the 
Lomellino family. Over entry, Procaccini's ' Last Supper.' Roof 
exquisitely painted : not an inch left undecorated. 

(In Strada Nuova) — r. Falazzo Brignole Sale, No. 53. Superbly 
furnished. Best Paintings. In Room L, ' Doges of the family.' 
— II., Carlo Dolce, an 'Agony;' Vandyck, 'Portraits.' — III., 
Cappuccino, ' Madonna ; ' P. Veronese ; ' Judith and Holofernes.' 
— IV., Bonifacio, 'Adoration of the Magi;' Guercino, 'Virgin, 
etc.,' fine. — V., Ann. Caracci, ' Raising of Lazarus ;' Guido, ' St. Se- 
bastian ; ' P. Veronese, study for ' Adoration of the Shepherds ; ' 
Guercino, ' Purification of the Temple,' fine. — VI., Vandyck, 
' Prince of Orange,' ' Brignole Portraits,' ' Crucifixion,' all fine. 

1. Falazzo Doria Tiirsi, now the Hotel de Ville. MSS., &c., of 
Columbus. — Ancient Roman terrier of territory, invaluable. 

r. Falazzo Serra, No. 49. Magnificently furnished interior. 

r. Falazzo Adorno. Frescos from Genoese history. 

r. Falazzo Ferclinando Spinola, No. 44. Good paintings. In 
Hall, Vandyck, 'Equestrian Portrait.' — Room I., Andrea del Sarto, 

* Portraits ; ' Beccafami, ' Virgin,' circular ; Titian, ' Venus ; ' 
Vandyck, ' Portrait.' — II., Vandyck, ' Crucifixion ; ' G. Bellini, 

Virgin.' 

(In Piazza delle Fontane Amorose) — r. The Fost-office. 

(In Strada Carlo Fehce) — r. Falazzo Fallavicini, 'strip my neigh- 



212 



GENUA. 



bour' — the London Banker of Rome in Queen Mary's time, whose 
loyalty, on Elizabeth's succession, revolted at returning their funds 
to her enemies ! No. 12. — Good paintings. In Room I., Guercino, 
' Christ ; ' Albani, Magdalen.' — II., Andi'ea del Sarto, ' Adoration 
of the Magi.' — III., Luca di Olanda, ' Virgin,' ' Dead Christ.' — 
IT., Rubens, ' St. Peter delivered;' Guido, 'Crucifixion:' alleged 
Raphael, ° IMadonna della Colonna' named fi'om the painted co- 
lumn in it. — Y., Yandyck, 5 'Portraits,' circular. — YI., Yandyck, 
'Coriolanus and Yeturia,' alleged portraits of Ja,mes I of Eng- 
land, vdfe, and children. — YII., Guercino, ' Scesvola before Por- 
senna ; ' Franceschini, ' Bathsheha batliing.' 

N.B. Tickets must be here obtained to ^dsit the famed Yilla at 
Pegh, see belovr. 

(On Piazza Carlo Fehce)— 1. Carlo Felice Theatre. 

Advice — The Tourist may now either — ^ seek his Hotel : or — > 
2 drive on first past the folloAring Sights. 

2. (From the Piazza, left — ) Accpiasola Fuhlic Gardens. 

3. (From the Piazza, straight on — ) Church of S. Ardhror/io, 
Built by the Palla^^cini family. Inside, a mass of marble, colour, 
and gilding. Paintings — r., 3rd chapel, Guido's ' Assumption.' 
Over high-altar, Rubens' ' Circumcision.' 

4. (In the Carlo Alberto, r.) Palazzo Bucale, modern, imposing. 

5. Cathedral, ' Duomo/ S, Lorenzo. In Chapel of St. John 
the Baptist — his relics : females can enter but once a-year, one 
of them having caused his death. In the treasury — the Sacro 
Catino, the dish of the Paschal Lamb at the ' Last Supper,' or 
that in which Christ's blood was caught : made of modern glass ! 
Fee for seeing, 5 fr. 

6. (From the Carlo Alberto, 1.) Chv/rch of the Carlgnano. Built 
by the Sauli family. Only noticeable as a point of view^ fine. 
Top, 255 steps. Fee, \ fr. 

7. (From the Carlo Alberto, r.) Street of the Goldsmiths, ' Yia 
Orefici,' unique. In the centre 'The Madonna' — glazed and 
canopied ; a rare painting of Pellegrino Piola, early assassinated 
through envy. Napoleon I, plundering for his Louvre, respected 
the Goldsmiths' love for this, and suffered it to remain. — Pur- 
chasers of ' Fihgree ' should refer above for the proper Price and 
Shop. 

8. Dog ana, ' Custom-house.' In its long-room — statues of all the 
departed Great of Genoa. 

From hence, a row-boat may be taken for the view^ from the 
water, and across to 

9. The Lanterna, ' light-house,' 365 steps high. Fine view. 

10. Church of S. Slro. The most ancient. The richest marbles. 
Here, the popular assemblies met in olden time. 

Points of view ; the finest are from — 1. The water, boat out, J 



GENOA. 



213 



hr. — 2. The Lanterna. — 3. The Carignano. — 4. The Acqua- 
sola. 

ExcunsiON— 2/9 the Villa Fallavicini, at PegH. By rail, 12 min. 
Order requisite, from the Palazzo in Genoa. — The Pegli station 
adjoins the entry. Charmingly laid out : shrubs, flowers, ruins, 
stalactite-grotto and lake (boat, h fr.), lovely views, etc. ±\11oav 2. 
hrs., delightful. Gardener (who acts as guide), 2 fr. 

Routes from Genoa. 



To Nice, dil., twice daily, 22 hrs.— 
Steam, twice a-week, 12 hrs. — p. 218. 

To MarseilleSy steam, alternate days, 
18 hrs., page 20. 

To Florence, dil., by Pisa, 24hrs. 
— rail.by Stradella, Bologna,21 hrs., p. 208. 



To Turin (Cenis Pass to Geneva, 
Lyons, Paris), p. 208, 174. 

To Aro'tia (Simplon Pass to Geneva, or 
St. Gotthard to Lucerne), p. 207, 155. 

To Milan, etc., p. 208. 

To Leghorn, steam, or dil. 



LXVI. NICE. 

French, Nice. Italian, Nizza di Mare. Pop. 44,000. Annual Visitors, GOOO. 
* Revendique' (i. e. reclaimed) by France, ceded by Sardinia, in 1S60. 

Hotel Yictoma may be considered the first for its magnificent 
situation on the sea, long standing, and reputation. The charges 
are moderate. 

Hotel Chauvain, a vast, delightful Family Hotel, with garden j 
quiet, perfectly appointed, and most reasonable. 

Hotel Royal, Promenade Victor Emmanuel, beautifully situ- 
ated, full south to the sea ; of high character, comfort, zeal, and 
moderate prices. The Landlady is English. 

Hotel de l'Univers has an English Landlord. 

Pensions — 

Arrangements can be made most satisfactorily in the Hotels 
above-mentioned. 

None of the other Pensions are at all recommendable. 

Ptiblic Carriages — 1 horse, per course, 7b c. ; per hr., 2 fr. ; each 
succeeding | hr., 75 c. 2 horses, per course, 1 fr. ; per hr., 2| fr. ; 
each succeeding | hr., 1 fr. 

Voitures aiid Horses for local drives or general travel — 

— Vigon, 3 Rue Paradis, has good horses, postilions, and fair prices. 

— Loupias, E-ue de la Terrasse^ close to Theatre Eoyal^ a vast establishment, per- 
fectly recommendable. 

Tarifs for Voiticres, from Nice — to Genoa, Toulon, or ALv, equally; 2 horses, 
(3 persons,) IGO fr. ; 3 horses, (5 persons,) 240 fr. ; 4 horses, (G or 7 persons,) 300 fr. — 
Bonnemain to driver— for 2 or 3 days, 15 fr. ; for 4 days, 20 fr. 

Diligences for Turin, 22 hrs. ; for Cannes, 3 hrs. — Toulon, IG hrs.— Marseilles. 18 
hrs. — see page 20, 21 ; for Genoa, 22 hrs., see following- section. Departures, twice 
a-day. The 3Iessage7nes Tmperiales, Place Charles Albert, specially reconnnended. 

Asses — per ride, 2 fr. 

• Guide to Nice, historical, topographical, and medical,' by Dr. Fitz Patrick, is- 
worthy of attention. 

* A few words about Nice' (Yisconti) is a well designed little book. 



214 



NICE. 



Houses af Business — 



Visitors at Nice should be on their guard against all self-interested representations 
to the injury of others. Kowhere is the spirit of rivalry stronger and less scrupulous. 

Banker — Lacroix, 1 Place St. Dominique, see next page but one. 

'Eheniderie — the beautiful wood-inlapng for which Nice is cele- 
brated: the interesting process should be seen. The prices de- 
manded (and especially of the English !) are monstrous, and the 
work is frequently unsound and soon separates — 

— Mignon, Ebenist to the Grand-Duchess Stephanie of Baden-Baden, Hue Paradis, 
corner of Jardin PubliC; a house founded in ISlo. may be safely recommended for 
first-class workmanship, reasonable ^x'^ prices, and honesty. 

— Gimelle, opposite the Pont Neuf bridge, has a new showy shop. Half the prices 
asked may safely be offered. 

Local Agent, for lodgings, provisions, servants, commissions, etc. — 

— Samaritani, 15 his Quai Massena, is highly recommended. Established 14 years. 
— Italian and German lessons are given by Madame Samaritani, an accomplished 
linguist^ who speaks English perfectly. 

English Physicians — 

-—Dr. Fitz Patrick, M. R. C. S. L., Maison Sue, Jardin Public, unpretending, but 
skilful ; an old resident, and founder of the Dispensary for the Poor. His local expe- 
rience is consequently invaluable. 

—Dr. Travis. 

— Dr. Gurney. 

— Dr. Desanges, American Physician, highly reported of : 28 Rue de France. 

Local Physician — Dr. Maroncelli (is married to]an English Lady), Quai du Midi, 
corner of Rue Sulzer, No. 3. 

Homoeopathic Physicians — 

— Dr. Finella, ex-Surgeon of the Sardinian Army, 6 Jardin Public. 
—Dr. Blest, M- D., M. R. C. S. E., retired Surgeon of the H. E. I. C. S., Madras Es- 
tablishment, 3 Promenade des Anglais, Maison Doucendi. 

Dentist.— '^l. Fieux, 9 Rue Paradis, 1st floor, close to Jardin Public. Dentist to 
Her Imperial and Royal Highness the Grand-Duchess Stephanie, of Baden-Baden. 

J/pothecaries — the following are of the first standing — 

— Verany, Professor of Chemistry and Botany, Rue du Gouvernement, near the 
Cathedral. 

English Dispensary — Paulian Inspector of the Pharmacies of the Province of 
Nice, Place St. Dominique, corner. Exact preparations and fair prices. Perfumery. 
Medicated Soaps, of efficacy in various disorders, most extraordinarily attested. 

Bijouterie, Jeioellery, &c. — Pontremoli, freres, 8 Rue du Pont Neuf, close to H. 
des Etrangers, trust-worthy and very reasonable. Their 3Iosaics, Corals, and Fill' 
gree particularly merit notice. 

Watches, Clocks, ' Horlogerie' — Henry Capt, of Geneva, No. 3, H. de la Grande 
Bretagne, Jardin Public, will be found most satisfactory to the English, ofl'ering 
guaranteed tvork with^^^ marked pr ices. 

English Groceries, Wines, Spirits, &c. — Berlandina, of London, an Englishman, 
established in 1825, Purveyor to the King of Sardinia, and to the Dow- Empress of 
Russia, Rue St. Francois de Paule, near the Cours, may be considered in every respect 
the first house of its kind. 

Ladiea' Dresses, shatvU, linens, muslins, Jlannels, calicoes, (fee. — Pontremoli, 16 
Rue du Gouverneuient ; very good. 



NICE. 



215 



Ungluh Tailor — the following is most recommended — ^ 
— Morrison, Jardin Public ; of good old standing. 
Linm Drapery and Hosiery — Messiah, from London, 6 Rue du 
Pont Neuf ; a large and excellent establishment. 

Local Map — Visconti's ; Library, Rue du Cours ; admirable. 
Consids — for Italy, England, United States : see below. 
Tjnglish Libraries — Visconti's, and Giraud's : see below. 
Theatres — ' Imperial,' Italian Opera ; Rue St. Fran9ois de 
Paule. 

— ' Tiranty,' French Comedy ; Place Massena, Pont Neuf. 
JEnglish Churches — ' Low,' in the Croix de Marbre. 
— ' High,' on the Route de St. Barthelemy. 
Scotch Treshyterian — 5 Rue Massena, Pont Neuf. 

Nice was founded B. c. 300. Occupied by the Romans in the 
time of Jidius Caesar ; by the Saracen Pira^tes, 7th cent. ; by the 
French, 9th cent. ; by the House of Savoy, 14th cent. ; by the 
French Revolutionists in 1796 (Kellerman, Hoche, Massena, 
Bonaparte, have passed here); restored to Savoy in 1814; re- ^ 
claimed C revenclique') by, and ceded to, France in I860; and 
now invaded by troops of Tourists, and become almost an English 
Colony. 

Situation — charming, on the river Torrent') Paglione, and 
the Mediterranean. Mean temperature, 60° Fahr. Annual average 
of fine days, 200; of snow, 1. Congenial to sufferers from lungs, 
nerves, or general debility. (It is essential to consult a loca.1 Phy- 
sician.) Exotics fxourish in the open air. The W. vdnd, ' Bise,' 
is sharp. — ' The Season,' October to May, 




Mont Chauve Cimiez 
(Fountains) 

Route d e S ^■gg^rth^l^y 
Villa Arson) \ ^U^glisp clu V^u — 2r"^Pmit Yieux i 

English Church )^S\ ///C-^"^^ 

Vaudois Temple ^\\/ / / ^ — ^1 St. Dominidue i 
IWatr e jiranty p ii^a — Eue du Pont iS'euf 
English >J< Churc: " 



1^ Entry 



^x.ft.xoxxTV>ii^il«^lXJ Place <,^{ «^«^^^. 

ance Croix de Marbre Massena \ ^ i^^e bt. ^ Eraiu;uis The Coi 



Promenade des Anglais Public p 
Mediterranean Sea 



Theatre □ HoypJ 
Qua! du Midi 



Port 

Ponclicttes J^o Villafraii 



□ no 



Light -liouso 



-216 



NICE. 



Points of interest, in consecutive order — 

1. Fromenacle des Anglais, along the Sea, edged ^^-ith Villas. 
(Behind, in the ' Croix de ]SIarbre,' is a 2\Iarble Cross in memory 

of Francis I, Charles Y, and Pope Paul III, here meeting, in 
1538. And a Cohunn in memory of Pius YIPs passage in 1809 
and 1814.) 

2. Jardiii Public, handsomely planted — 

— Library of Giraud, Xo. 7- English Works, Views, Reading- 
room, etc. 

Hence, across the Pont Neuf into the chief quarter of business. 

3. British Consulate and Bank — M. Lacroix, 1 Place St. Domi- 
nique : well known for his couji'tesies to English a.nd Am.ericans. 
Cu'cular notes changed. 

4. Viscontibs Circulating Lihrarj/, Book-sJiojp, Reading and Chess- 
rooms, Sfc. — Rue du Corn's, close to preceding. A mxagnificent es- 
tablishment — perhaps the first in all Italy. Works in all languages. 
English, American, French, Germ.an, and Itahan Papers and Ma- 
gazines. All sorts of Stationery. Paintings and works of Art. 
Garden T\ith rare exotics, well worth the notice of the Botanist. 
Quite a fashionable resort for Ladies and Gentlemen.— Close to 

5. The Cours, ' Corso.' Band every evening. — Adjoining 

6. Piue St. Francois de Faule, JVo. 8. Here Bonaparte lodged. 
Here also Pope Pius VII. 

7. Theatre Regal, same street, close to last. Italian Opera. 

8. Church of St. Francois de Faule, opposite last. Fashionable 
in Lent. Painting of St. Benoit, by Vanloo, Kigois, fine. 

Hence, along the Quai du iNlidi and shore, fine \"iews : round 
the grand headland and ' Port ; ' and up 

9. The Chateau (i. e. where such a thing v:as). In 1543, the 
French and Turks had nearly taken it, when an ' ill-made ]Miss ' 
(la Banna IFaiifaccid), Catterina Segurana, stirred up the garrison, 
slew a Turk herself, and recovered the fort. — In 1691, a French 
bomb fired the ]\Iagazine ; its explosion was heard at 100 miles' 
distance, and stones of 50 lbs. were hurled 5 mJs. — Rebuilt, the 
French again destroyed it, in 1706. — Broad, gardened ascent to 
the plateau, 310 ft. Superb ^iew. Descent to 

10. T/zg 6V/5(?/v^^, ' Barrack,' ancient Augustine Convent, where 
Luther celebrated Mass, June 20, 1534. Close to 

11. The Post-office, Place Victor. Close by 

12. Chapel of St. Sepulcre. Altar-painting by Vanloo. Mass in 
memory of the Chateau's delivery in 1543, Aug. 15. 

13. United States Considate, 4 Rue Cassini. 

— House long occupied by Bonaparte, in sam^e street. 

14. Falais Lascar is (M. Colombo's), Rue Droite. Magnificent 
frescos of Carloni, A. D. 1630. 

Hence, either — back by the British Consulate again, see above; 
or — across the Pont Vieux, to 



NICE. 



217 



15. Church of the Vote, 'Eglise du Yoeu' — vowed to the Virgin, 
for averting the Cholera in 1835. Fine memorial-painting by 
Hauser, — the Belle of Nice being gallantly copied for one of the 
Angels ! 

ExcuESiONS — 1. To Cimiez, 4 mis. From the Pont Neuf. Along 
the river, past the College, and Church of the Vow ; then, 2nd 
high-rd. to the left, Route de St. Barthelemy; then, either — 1st 
to the r., rajpid ascent ; or — 1., to St. Barthelemy village, and then 
to the r., gradual ascent, 1 ml. longer. 

Cimiez — former Pop. 30,000: a Roman Senate, and Capital of 
the Province ! Situation — delightful ; still milder temperature, and 
more sheltered, than Nice. 

Roman remains — 1. Amphitheatre : the rd. passes throiifjh it. 
— 2. Supposed Temple of Apollo (now stable to the Comte Garin!) 
— 3. Baths, most curious, not noticed in any preceding Handbook. 

In Church of Cimiez^ 2 paintings by Brea, Ni9ois^ IGth cent., Pre-Raphaelite style, 
very remarkable. 

To Cimiez and St. Barthelemy and back, carriage, 5 hours. 

2. To 'the Fountains. Highly picturesque. x\s before, to St. 
Barthelemy. Then, centre of 3 rds., past Villa Pierlas, to Ray 
village. (Here, carriages are left.) 20 min. further, ' Fontaine de 
Mouraille,' ' Fontaine Sainte ' (intermittent), ' Fontaine du Tem- 
ple' (Knights-Templar ha\dng lived here). Altogether, 10 mis. 
thither ; allow 3 hrs. 

In returning, may be ^dsited the 

— Villa Arson^ the ' bel endi'oit pour hair les hommes et aim^er 
une femme' of Alphonse Karr — (Here, carriages may be resumed — ) 
and back to Nice by the Convent of St. Barthelem}^. 

It is possible, but severe, to introduce, between Ray and Arson, 
the ' Dark Valley '— 

3. To the Dark Valley, ' Vallon Obscur,' 4^ mis., \\ hr., from 
Nice : finely savage ; flooded in v/et weather. To St. Barthelemy, 
as before ; tfrence, path for asses only, 

4. To the Grotto St, Andre, 1 hr.'s drive. By Route de St. Bar- 
thelemy, to the Chateau St. Andre : thence cypress-avenue to the 
Grotte, stalactitic. Pic-nic place. 

It is possible to add, same day, Mt. Chauve, Excursion 8. 

5. To Levens village, 2 hrs. further. Omnibus from Pont Vieiix, 
Nice, 6 a. m., 1^ fr. — Rom.an and Mediaeval remains. The path- 
less valleys beyond are full of beauty. 

6. To the Var, two ways— {^) From Levens in continuation; 
mule-path to St. Martin,'^6 mis., 2 hrs.; tram-rail along the Var 
river, picturesque, 1 hr. ; omn. to Nice as follows, 1 hr. 

—(2) From Nice, Pont Vieux, to St. Martin direct, omnib. at 
6 a. m., U fr.— Between Nice, Pont Neuf, and the Var, omnib., 4 
times a-day, 40 cts. 



218 



NICE. 



7. To the Boh (lit Var^ a charming "svood, 1 lir. on the rd. to 
France. Oninib.,^as above. 

8. Ascent of Jlont CJiauve, 2S00 ft. Donkev-path, "bv Cimiez 
(Excursion 1), 4| hrs. Pedestrians, 3| hrs. Splendid panorama. 

9. To Villafranca. Dehghtful sea-TOws. T\vo ways. — (i) By 
road, over Ylt. Boron, 3 mis., 1 hi\ ; carriage, there and back— i 
horse, 2 persons, 4 fi*. ; 2 horses, 6 fr. 

— (2) By the beach, level, 1 hr. ; boat, or donkev. 

The safest Port of the Mediten-anean, ceded to France. Length. 
9425 Eng. ft. : breadth, 5850 ft. Entiy, actual, 6S25 ft. : practi- 
cable, from the Battery Madame to the Point Pilon, 2775 ft. Area, 
actual, 11,266,083 sq. ft. ; practicable, 4,485,000 sq. ft. These mea- 
surements are strictlji accurate for militarif jjurrjoses. 

— On to Beadle >i, \ hr. more. Ohve-ti'ee, 1000 yrs. old, requir- 
ing 15 persons to embrace it. Villa Denegii. charming. 

— On to St. Hosjjice, J hr. more. Tovrer and platform, with ad- 
mirable view. Notorious for pic-nics. 

10. To yLonaco, or Mentone, 3 — 4 hrs. See nest page. 



{•) By Steam; 15 hrs. ; fares— 21 and 15 fr. : twice a-vreek— by night, losing 
the shore-scenery, therefore not recommended. 

(2) Posting / 206 kil., 127 mis., 2 days (severe) ; see Tarifs^ p. xxiii ; (say, 2 
horses, renforts. and postilions, 370 fr.) " 

(3) By Voiture ; 4 days; sleeping' at Mentone, Oneglia, Savona, G^noa; 2 
horses, (3 persons,) 160 fr. • 3 horses, 'o persons,) 240 fr.; 4 horses, (6 or 7 persons,) 
300 iv—Bonnemain to driver — for 3 days, 15 fr. ; for 4 days, 20 fr. 

(4) By Diligence ; 22 hrs. Morn, and even. Coupe, 40 fr. ; Inter. andBanq., 
equaUy, 32 fr. 'iPlaces secured to travel by day-light only, sleeping at Alassio — 
Coupe^ 60 fr.; Inter, and Banq., 48 fr. — Services o^ihQJIessageries Imperiales.well- 
appointed, ouicials most obliging ; at Nice — Place Charles Albert ; at Genoa — 
opposite the Annunziata (Church. 

(') Walking ; 4 or 5 days : morning hours,between 4 and 10 a. m. ; afternoon, 
between 4 and 7 p. m. — 1st mom., Nice to Mentone, 5 hrs. ; aft., to Ventimiglia, 2 
hrs.— 27?tZ morn., Ventimiglia to San Stefano, 7 hrs. ; aft., to Oneglia, 3 hrs — 3rri 
morn.. Oneglia to Alassio, 4 lirs. ; aft., to Albenaa, 2 hrs.— 4f// morn., Albenga to 
Noli, 6i hrs. ; aft, to Savona, 2i hrs.— 5//i morn~, Savona to Voltri, 64 hrs.; rail 
to Genoa, ^ In*. 

Route — Along the Ri^-iera di Ponente, commonly called ' Cor- 
niche Pass,' because edging the ^laritinie Alps overhangmg the 
jSIediterranean. Passable all the year, unimpeded by snow, from 
its southern aspect. 

Scenery — A mountain-line, ^dth exotic vegetation, campaniled 
towns, white villas, and blue sea — most romantic. 

The time quoted is the average time occupied in drimig. 

T/ie distances in kilometres are from one Post-station to another. 



Routes from Nice. 



To Cannes^ Marseilles, etc., p. 20, 21. 
To Florence, etc., by Genoa, next sect., 
whence see ' Routes,' p. 213. 



To Turin, bv the Tenda, dil., 22 hrs., 
^ P- ISO. 

To Genoa, see following section. 



LXVII. NICE TO GENOA. 



